From Class 2 to Class 1. How "hard" is it to switch?

[AlmonteGuy]

So I've been riding a Class 2 (i.e w/throttle) for 4+ years, and I'm eyeing a much higher rig (i.e Moustache J-All, or Riese & Muller Homage 5), both Class 1 (i.e no throttle). I do love a throttle when I, or my knees, are tired. I can just stop pedaling for a while and still move. I could not do that with a Class 1 as you always have to pedal to move.

So, if you have switched from 2 to 1, how hard was it to adjust?

Cheers!

 

[RunForTheHills]

I have both kinds of ebikes. The throttle is convenient, but not something I can't live without. Starting from a stop is about the same as riding one of my analog bikes, but I don't have heavy fat tire bikes to deal with. They might be more difficult and starting from a stop on an uphill would require shifting to a low gear.

 

[Chargeride]

So it seems New Jersey is about to sign a bill enforcing drivers licence and motorcycle helmet for all ebikes, even class 1.
wtf

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Welcome! It's going to be hard to translate other members' experiences with giving up throttles into decision-worthy info. Too many uncontrolled variables — including terrain, fitness level, bike weight and motor, assist type, and the kind of help the rider actually wants from a throttle. Many valuable uses for a throttle beyond getting a break from pedaling.

But you don't have to rely on others. Just stop using your existing throttle on some representive test rides in your own terrain and see where that leaves you. Can you get by without the pedaling breaks just by bumping assist or downshifting?

Then factor in any differences in the new bike's weight, motor specs, gearing, and assist type, and see if it still makes sense for you with no throttle.

Most importantly, arrange some test rides — if not on the bikes you're eyeing, then on bikes with comparable specs. That's the only way to know for sure. Personally, I'd never buy an ebike I hadn't ridden first.

At 76, I successfully went from a heavy torque-sensing hub-drive commuter with throttle to a mid-drive fitness ebike with half the weight, power, and torque and no throttle. Really need the throttle on the commuter for knee-related reasons different from yours, so our experiences aren't really comparable. But after some easy adjustments to riding technique, I get by just fine without a throttle on the fitness bike.

Good luck.

 

[AlmonteGuy]

Welcome! It's going to be hard to translate other members' experiences with giving up throttles into decision-worthy info. Too many uncontrolled variables — including terrain, fitness level, bike weight and motor, assist type, and the kind of help the rider actually wants from a throttle. Many valuable uses for a throttle beyond getting a break from pedaling.

But you don't have to rely on others. Just stop using your existing throttle on some representive test rides in your own terrain and see where that leaves you. Can you get by without the pedaling breaks just by bumping assist or downshifting?

Then factor in any differences in the new bike's weight, motor specs, gearing, and assist type, and see if it still makes sense for you with no throttle.

Most importantly, arrange some test rides — if not on the bikes you're eyeing, then on bikes with comparable specs. That's the only way to know for sure. Personally, I'd never buy an ebike I hadn't ridden first.

At 77, I successfully went from a heavy torque-sensing hub-drive commuter with throttle to a mid-drive fitness ebike with half the weight, power, and torque and no throttle. Really needed the throttle on the commuter for knee-related reasons different from yours, so our experiences aren't really comparable. But after some easy adjustments to riding technique, I get by just fine without a throttle on the fitness bike.

Good luck.

Sensible advice, Jeremy. Thank you.

 

[PedalUma]

Sensible advice, Jeremy. Thank you.

The most important thing Jeremy mentioned was about downshifting. You ride a class one bike like a bike, so down shift every time you apply the brakes. It is not about pedaling hard. It is about spinning. It is not about the down stroke but swimming it all the way around like you have scuba fins, effortlessly and at a high cadence. Rev it up beyond normal cadence before upshifting, so you will then be at the right cadence. It takes practice and anyone can learn. It is also fun, rewarding, and engaging like playing an instrument. It is like playing a drum kit and not like a beatbox on autopilot.

 

[PedalUma]

So it seems New Jersey is about to sign a bill enforcing drivers licence and motorcycle helmet for all ebikes, even class 1.
wtf

I wrote this today to the local paper. Two kids got busted on motorcycles and the headline said E-Bikes.

There is a lot of confusion about bicycles that have some assistance. I am in my sixties. Last Sunday I did a 16 mile ride up Sonoma Mountain with a friend with 1,200 in elevation gains. We had some 12–15-degree climbs. It took just over an hour while others were on the couch yelling at their TVs. Electric bicycles are very different than mini-bikes that have pedals like a T-rex has arms, almost as a loophole afterthought, and never used because they have hand throttles. Although not a statutory requirement, real bicycles have features such a height adjustable saddles and handlebars, so the rider gets full leg extension for pedaling. Good electric bicycles have the motor between the pedals and it measures pedaling pressure, so power delivery is smooth and intuitive. Painting real electric bicycles with the same brush as unlawful motorcycles and mini-bikes (that may happen to be electric or not) is a fallacy and highly misleading. I ride every day and feel better than I did twenty years ago. Because of good electric bikes I was able to sell my car on January 21, 2017. Bicycles that have some assistance are great for our communities’ goals. What if the ten cars ahead of you at a red light were replaced by eBikes using separate paths and trails? At 12 mph I can cross town using trails without cars or traffic lights from Friedman Brothers to Copperfield’s in less than 15 minutes with no looking for parking. Parking ten bikes takes the space of one car freeing up nine more spots for everyone. Here is a photo of a good electric bike. You can see the wire from the battery to the motor. Nice eBikes look and feel like bicycles because they are the most efficient form of transportation ever, just better.

 

[Chargeride]

In a short twenty years the elite and their minions have eroded or down right smashed every cornerstone of the human condition.
The tiny blue dot has now become an experiment to make the god we all worshipped here on Earth, indifferent, omnipotent, inescapable, unfathomable, unquestionable, mysterious..demanding your worship and your faith and obedience to calm his wrath.

The more you give, the more they will take.

Saying that, I cant wait for the new iphone implantable.

 

[harryS]

So it seems New Jersey is about to sign a bill enforcing drivers licence and motorcycle helmet for all ebikes, even class 1.
wtf

WTF, indeed. This was posted in a senior group I frequent on Facebook, and the gummers were cheering about getting those blasted kids on ebikes off their lawn. They all missed the part where if a kid needs a drivers license to ride, then so does everyone else. along with liability insurance, and probably a fee to cover the costs of registering a e=bike,

 

[Extreme1]

So I've been riding a Class 2 (i.e w/throttle) for 4+ years, and I'm eyeing a much higher rig (i.e Moustache J-All, or Riese & Muller Homage 5), both Class 1 (i.e no throttle). I do love a throttle when I, or my knees, are tired. I can just stop pedaling for a while and still move. I could not do that with a Class 1 as you always have to pedal to move.

So, if you have switched from 2 to 1, how hard was it to adjust?

Cheers!

How about going to your LBS and trying a pedal assist bike? Try riding it in Turbo mode, I think you’ll find that very easy to pedal, even when you are spent and sore.

 

[PedalUma]

Torque sensor bikes kinda work like a Tesla. You push with pedal with pressure to go instead of thumb pressure. On good ones that pressure can be set by the user.

 

[Chargeride]

Wise words pedal, I have much hope you will master long press for menu, an important task to become one with bicycle.

 

[PedalUma]

You go to the main menu, then to advanced/engineering. Scrolling down to Torque Sensor, and adjust the milliamps input. This will be a different setting for the type of bike and for the rider's needs. There are about 150 such variables to dial in for any given bike and rider, much like a pro audio mixers studio soundboard, it all works together.

 

[Chargeride]

Youre supposed to reply, 'f off smartarse.', but a detailed explanation will do.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

How about going to your LBS and trying a pedal assist bike? Try riding it in Turbo mode, I think you’ll find that very easy to pedal, even when you are spent and sore.

I wouldn't ride in Turbo on the 100 Nm choice of @AlmonteGuy unless it would be an extreme climb

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have much hope you will master long press for menu

As funny as it might sound, the long press does not produce any menu on either of my two Specialized e-bikes How odd.
How do you do it on an e-bike without the display, such as your Levo?

 

[BlackHand]

You go to the main menu, then to advanced/engineering. Scrolling down to Torque Sensor, and adjust the milliamps input. This will be a different setting for the type of bike and for the rider's needs. There are about 150 such variables to dial in for any given bike and rider, much like a pro audio mixers studio soundboard, it all works together.

So that's easier than fixing the date stamp on your camera, huh?

 

[6zfshdb]

IMO, the difficulty in switching from class 2 to class 1 would depend on your age & physical condition as well as the characteristics of the class 1 PAS system.

On many class 1 bikes, there is a delay when starting to pedal before the motor assist kicks in. I'm told it's a safety feature to keep the bike from taking off unexpectedly. In my case, it's like trying to get going on a heavy conventional bike. On a slope, it's almost impossible, especially if I forget to downshift. For me anyway, a throttled class 2 bike is a necessity. I only use it to get started or to "walk" the bike up stairs or a steep slope. The rest of the time, I ride as though the bike were a class 1. I treat the throttle as I would my handicapped parking placard. I don't use it often but when I do, it's very handy to have.

Every rider is different in this respect so YMMV.

 

[PedalUma]

@6zfshdb, I like the kick-in at about 15 degrees. On some cadence bikes they won't kick in until 180 degrees. It sucks. That is why many class 2 cadence sensor riders like to start with the throttle. To start on a hill I like to go sideways until it gives assistance.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Guys, the OP chose a Riese & Muller. Your comments are irrelevant The Bosch motor has no kick in delay, and it is a leg power controlled motor (torque * cadence).