Frey Ex Chainring

Do you now require a longer chain with more links due to a larger chainring? I went from a 40t to a 46t and my bike mechanic had told me that a longer chain is now required? Has anyone else run into this problem?
Yup, every extra tooth is a link. And a jump from 40 to 50 is HUGE. I did an upgrade on a similar bike from 44 to 49, and it was a full 2 gear shift.
 
Do you now require a longer chain with more links due to a larger chainring? I went from a 40t to a 46t and my bike mechanic had told me that a longer chain is now required? Has anyone else run into this problem?
In general yes, but it depends.... What is the problem right now?

If it works without issue then you don't need a longer chain.

I got away without adding any extra links.
 
On full suspension frames proper chain lenght is more of an issue because of when the frame flexes in the rear it expands the chains lenght to a point that your derailer cant absorb the flex causing it to reach a point where something has to give. Usually the derailer ends up bent. My buddy who has a brand new Luna Apex didnt check his chain lenght before first ride and went over a big bump and blew out one of his rollers in the back. We took derailer off and shortened the chain to get him home.
 
I'm not getting much mileage from my chains. Is anyone else experiencing this problem with the Frey Ex?
The most I'm getting is 1,000 miles.
 
I have been using KMC Ebike chain E10 I think and have had good luck . Just keep them clean and lubed.
 
I rode motorcycles off and on in my life. Whenever we were touring ( 4 or 5 hundred miles a day ) we lubed our chains every evening. I'm beginning to realize I am not doing proper chain maintenance. Probably few are.
 
Pretty simple, lift your chain out of the way, 5 X Allen key bolts remove it.. I've removed my guard as I didn't like it and put chainring there..
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210610_155409.jpg
    IMG_20210610_155409.jpg
    276 KB · Views: 239
Resurrecting an old thread - I just put a replaced the factory ring on my Frey HT1000 with a wolf tooth 130x5 48 tooth ring.
  • There is very little space now between the rear fork frame and the perimeter of the teeth/chain. Probably 3/8" clearance now. I doubt a larger gear will clear it, but this is fine.
  • The new ring is thinner @ the mounting bolts and they stuck out a bit and clip the frame on rotation. Bike shop gave me shorter bolts. Still good thread engagement. Is good now.
  • The chain guide has adjustment. Is adjusted all the way out to accommodate larger diameter, is perfect.
  • Replaced the chain - old chain had 1000 miles on it. I do not know the new chain length. I can ask the shop if anyone wants to know the specifics.
Preliminary performance:
  • AWESOME!
    • I pretty much exclusively ride at assist level 1. When on level flat surface (95+% of my riding) I was nearly always in the top gear. I wanted the typical condition to not be on the extreme cog. This change moved 1-2 gears down on the rear sprocket for comparable cadence. Now typically riding in 7th @ 18-20mph vs 9th at the same speed.
    • 9th gear is @ 25-27mph at my cadence. Hard to maintain in assist level 1 without a tail-wind or decline. I think this is where I want to be.
      • For reference I am heavy (fat) @5'11"/255# but otherwise (beer) decently fit (heart/lungs/legs).
  • UNKNOWNS
    • Efficiency - I have been getting ~50 miles to a charge. (Did a little better in the FL Keys where its totally flat). Have not ridden any distance with the new setup so I don't know how this will affect range. I expect (hope) it will be same/bit better. Mechanically it should be about 1-2% better but not sure if/how that translates to manual pedaling. I don't expect much change and will not be disappointed as long as it does not decline.
Love my Frey HT1000 bike - Think the Amish guy at the bike shop was impressed too.
 
Just did the same to my Frey Beast. Makes better use of the grunt these motors have even in the lowest assistance level.

IMG_1616.jpeg
 
Back