Flash Bike problem, need a little help!

[johnlem64]

Hi All,
I bought a flash bike from flashbike.io a year ago and the speed control module that increases/decreases the speed settings for the electric motor isn't working any longer.
I contacted their customer support and they recommended to replace it, so I bought it from them as it was out of warranty, but that did nothing.
All the functions work, except this speed control module/left turn signal.
I further researched the bike and found their ASI Sine Wave Controller may be the problem and replaced that, but still didn't get the module to work to engage the electric motor on this bike.
I had contact their customer support now for over 3 weeks straight, tracked down a phone number under KPZ Inc. (dba flashbike.io), emailing and calling them daily and it's as if they vanished off the face of the earth, without not one reply back.
I am at wits ends with this bike, trying to get my $2,000 investment to work, but I do not know where to get help to get this to work.
I hate to think about replacing the rear motor wheel, as that can be expensive and I would just opt to buy another e bike.
Does anyone have a remedy or know what the issue is with this bike?

 

[indianajo]

Welcome to the site.
I see pitching in the bin a working frame brake seat handlebar setup as a waste of resources.
If your battery is working okay, and you can gain access to the red plus and black minus supply wires, then an entire new geared power wheel + controller + throttle + pas pickup + brake handles + display is running about $450 on ebay. Your wiring would be external at that point, I tied it on my bike with tie-wraps. I would make the connection to the old battery supply wires with .157 bullet connectors, yellow ones for 12 ga if that is what you have. Blue is for 14 ga. I couldn't find yellow bullet connectors and had to peel a few strands off the 12 ga wire I used to make them fit blue. Connectors that won't melt out at 30 amps are made by t&b, t e connectivity (amp), panduit, ideal, 3m, and dorman. The generic (****ese) crimp connectors on ebay & amazon do melt out at 30 amps. Use a Klein or ideal crimp tool for best results, and pull test after making the connection. Some kits require a ring or fork terminal at a screw connection block instead of bullet connectors. I bought the necessary red + black 12 ga wire to the battery at oreilly's auto parts from dorman.
Don't buy a fat tire wheel, it won't fit this bike. Make sure the voltage of the motor matches the voltage of your battery. I have a 48 v setup but 99% of new geared hub motors are 36 v now. Direct drive motors will work but use more watt hours in hilly terrain and accelerate more slowly. You won't get turn signals or integrated head/tail lights with a kit at this price point. Don't buy the motor controller or display one part at a time, the parts you get may not be compatible. Buy an entire power wheel kit. You may need a puller to install a PAS pickup on the crank.
The upside of the crimp terminals is that they are industrial grade and do not drop out when you hit a pothole as some bike battery connections do. I have had no power loss in 2 3/4 years of riding over 5500 miles. Don't use the gold plate connectors, gold melts off at high currents, those over 1 amp.

 

[AguassissiM]

@johnlem64

Welcome to the forum.

That is a good looking ride.
Have you checked the pass sensor alignment? If it got pushed away from the magnets too far it may not communicate with the controller, broken wire at said sensor?
I'm not any kind of expert just saying what I would inspect.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chaim in.

 

[percymon]

Presumably the assist still works, its just stuck in one assist level ? And you've lost the turn signal - is that on the same handlebar module, with common cabling ?

Clean all connectors would be my first port of call. Then check cables particularly around entry points to the frame for any breakages/stretching (you might need to do some continuity testing with a multimeter though) - the good news it does look as though you have a decent access port in front of the rear wheel, to access the controllers etc which are presumably in the main tube of the frame.

Any error codes available via the wonderful app they like to promote as part of their marketing ?

 

[johnlem64]

Welcome to the site.
I see pitching in the bin a working frame brake seat handlebar setup as a waste of resources.
If your battery is working okay, and you can gain access to the red plus and black minus supply wires, then an entire new geared power wheel + controller + throttle + pas pickup + brake handles + display is running about $450 on ebay. Your wiring would be external at that point, I tied it on my bike with tie-wraps. I would make the connection to the old battery supply wires with .157 bullet connectors, yellow ones for 12 ga if that is what you have. Blue is for 14 ga. I couldn't find yellow bullet connectors and had to peel a few strands off the 12 ga wire I used to make them fit blue. Connectors that won't melt out at 30 amps are made by t&b, t e connectivity (amp), panduit, ideal, 3m, and dorman. The generic (****ese) crimp connectors on ebay & amazon do melt out at 30 amps. Use a Klein or ideal crimp tool for best results, and pull test after making the connection. Some kits require a ring or fork terminal at a screw connection block instead of bullet connectors. I bought the necessary red + black 12 ga wire to the battery at oreilly's auto parts from dorman.
Don't buy a fat tire wheel, it won't fit this bike. Make sure the voltage of the motor matches the voltage of your battery. I have a 48 v setup but 99% of new geared hub motors are 36 v now. Direct drive motors will work but use more watt hours in hilly terrain and accelerate more slowly. You won't get turn signals or integrated head/tail lights with a kit at this price point. Don't buy the motor controller or display one part at a time, the parts you get may not be compatible. Buy an entire power wheel kit. You may need a puller to install a PAS pickup on the crank.
The upside of the crimp terminals is that they are industrial grade and do not drop out when you hit a pothole as some bike battery connections do. I have had no power loss in 2 3/4 years of riding over 5500 miles. Don't use the gold plate connectors, gold melts off at high currents, those over 1 amp.

Hey Indian Jo,
thanks for your reply.
I am trying to troubleshoot this bike with original parts to keep the look and integrity the same.
Just trying to see if there was anyone else with the same issue that knows a way to resolve it
I appreciate your advice.

 

[johnlem64]

@johnlem64

Welcome to the forum.

That is a good looking ride.
Have you checked the pass sensor alignment? If it got pushed away from the magnets too far it may not communicate with the controller, broken wire at said sensor?
I'm not any kind of expert just saying what I would inspect.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chaim in.

Hi AguassissiM,
thanks for your reply and appreciate the like on the bike, that's what drew me to it.
When installing the new controller into the frame, everything was pretty snug and not much room for anything that appeared out of place or wires broken.
I'm hoping that there's someone that knows what is the cause of this issue and can suggest a remedy to correct it.

 

[johnlem64]

Presumably the assist still works, its just stuck in one assist level ? And you've lost the turn signal - is that on the same handlebar module, with common cabling ?

Clean all connectors would be my first port of call. Then check cables particularly around entry points to the frame for any breakages/stretching (you might need to do some continuity testing with a multimeter though) - the good news it does look as though you have a decent access port in front of the rear wheel, to access the controllers etc which are presumably in the main tube of the frame.

Any error codes available via the wonderful app they like to promote as part of their marketing ?

Hey Percymon,
thanks for the reply.
the speed control and left turn signal are on one module and I traced it to the connection and it all is good. I even bought a replacement module and it still doesn't work.
I thought it may be a malfunction with the controller that's buried inside the frame with the battery but that wasn't it either. Not sure what happened to it, but the one thing I did notice was that it was becoming difficult to change speeds before it just stopped working. Very odd, but I don't quite know about it or have a schematic to work with, which would help.
No error codes appeared or have shown and everything else works fine, except for that one module, very weird.

 

[rich c]

You can't troubleshoot electronics by appearance. You have to buy a multimeter and see where the electricity is and where it "ain't". You can use the ohm setting to check continuity in a wire and if a switch is actually working. Becoming a troubleshooter is just part of buying an eBike from an online seller.

 

[percymon]

Looks like the handle bar modular only has a short wire section to an inline connector - given you've probably broken/remade this connection a few times it probably isn;t a corroded terminal in the connection due to water ingress, but always worth a look with a magnifying glass. There a big bundle of cables running into the frame through that rubber grommet, which could be a stress point - i'd be checking continuity from the connector near the handlebar through the the other end of that cable run, presumably to the central controller box buried in the back end of the frame tube ? The frame tube display may leave little room for the cable runs beneath it, perhaps one got trapped on original assembly ?

 

[indianajo]

You can't troubleshoot electronics by appearance. You have to buy a multimeter and see where the electricity is and where it "ain't".

Even if you determine your speed input button or throttle is defective, you can't buy one. Flash is gone, you said so. There are 1000 factories that make these parts; finding out where yours came from and who else uses it is like searching for the roc's egg.
Since your display isn't blanking out or flashing codes when you have a failure, that is a good indication that your battery is okay. That saves $400-600 off the price of a new bike. If your battery is in that rear carrier, the better. you should be able to access the wires without cutting the frame open.

 

[johnlem64]

Presumably the assist still works, its just stuck in one assist level ? And you've lost the turn signal - is that on the same handlebar module, with common cabling ?

Clean all connectors would be my first port of call. Then check cables particularly around entry points to the frame for any breakages/stretching (you might need to do some continuity testing with a multimeter though) - the good news it does look as though you have a decent access port in front of the rear wheel, to access the controllers etc which are presumably in the main tube of the frame.

Any error codes available via the wonderful app they like to promote as part of their marketing ?

 

[johnlem64]

Want to thank everyone for their help.
I've decided to put the bike up for sale for parts or a project for someone to take on.
If anyone is interested in it, please let me know.
I'm asking half price for it ($1,000) or best offer, thanks again.