Fixing a flat tire on the road is impossible. Should I change my wheels and tire?

[Howardval]

In the past, I've had two Haibikes and it was very easy to fix a flat on the road. Just carry the usual spare tube, tire levers, and a pump/co2. No problem.

However, my new e-bike comes with the Alex Rims and Shwalbe Big Ben Plus tires. I've seen this combo on other e-bikes as well. These appear to be European and the parts are difficult to find in the U.S. (e.g. 20" presta tubes). Yesterday I had a flat when I got home and I couldn't unseat the bead from the tire. First time I've ever encountered such a difficult tire. After many attempts and Google search for help, I had to take it to my local bike shop. They had a heck of a time as well. It eventually took two techs pulling on it at the same time to unseat the bead. I'm now learning others are having a hard time with the Alex wheel/Big Ben combo.

Problem is that I HAVE to be able to fix a flat on the side of the road. Some of my rides are 20+ miles away from home. With my current wheels/tires, I cannot do that. Anyone else experienced this? Is this because heavy duty bikes (such as cargo/utility) bikes need beefier wheels/tires and you just can't change them roadside?

I'm thinking about purchasing new wheels/tires even though my new bike is only one day old. It is an absolute MUST that I be able to fix a flat on the road. And what combination would you recommend? My rear tire is 26" (10 speed cassette w/quick release) and my front tire is 20" (2.15" wide tire). And they're both presta. I would prefer Shrader since it's much more common in the U.S. (for those sizes).

 

[AHicks]

Insurance company of your choice likely offers road service super cheap. That means you would just need to get the bike to a place accessible to a tow truck. Have them take it to your house. That's my plan.... I'm not into screwing with repairs like that other than in my shop. I run a flat preventer (Goop, Slime, whatever) in my tires to minimize that potential.

 

[indianajo]

I have a cargo bike and the 26x2.1" freedombike tires it came with were no problem. Other than picking up trash and going flat in 700 miles. The knobby Kenda's I replaced with are also no problem, but last more like 3000 miles (18 months) without flats. Look up the spec sheet on the yubabikes model for the wheel brand, my downloaded one is on the computer that failed last week.
BTW I carry 2 flat blade 6" screwdrivers, not "tire levers". Don't really understand all the panicky warnings about screwdrivers on the internet, instruction sheets etc.
Cheapest way to get standard 26" wheels is a rusty MTB from the curb on garbage day or the charity resale shop. Those will be schrader valve. The aluminum ones on my 86 schwinn were a little bigger, the ****ese garbage are so small some tires pop off the rim.

 

[Mr. Coffee]

A couple of suggestions:

• Alex rims have a reputation for being tight. I'd suggest working with your LBS to shop around for a different tire, because even tires of the same size can be of different enough size that they might be relatively tight or loose.
• Smaller diameter wheels are generally harder to remove a tire than larger diameter ones. Often with 29ers you don't even need a tire lever. I'll bet you won't have much of a struggle removing the rear 26" tire.
• I really wouldn't replace the Presta valves with Shrader valves -- Presta valves are smaller diameter and thus the whole rim is stronger. For a lot of reasons I myself kind of hate Presta valves but that whole diameter issue makes me put up with them.
• I am pretty sure you can find your tube size online. I'd suggest ordering a bunch of tubes from Amazon or REI and keeping them in a closet.

 

[J.R.]

In the past, I've had two Haibikes and it was very easy to fix a flat on the road. Just carry the usual spare tube, tire levers, and a pump/co2. No problem.

However, my new e-bike comes with the Alex Rims and Shwalbe Big Ben Plus tires. I've seen this combo on other e-bikes as well. These appear to be European and the parts are difficult to find in the U.S. (e.g. 20" presta tubes). Yesterday I had a flat when I got home and I couldn't unseat the bead from the tire. First time I've ever encountered such a difficult tire. After many attempts and Google search for help, I had to take it to my local bike shop. They had a heck of a time as well. It eventually took two techs pulling on it at the same time to unseat the bead. I'm now learning others are having a hard time with the Alex wheel/Big Ben combo.

Problem is that I HAVE to be able to fix a flat on the side of the road. Some of my rides are 20+ miles away from home. With my current wheels/tires, I cannot do that. Anyone else experienced this? Is this because heavy duty bikes (such as cargo/utility) bikes need beefier wheels/tires and you just can't change them roadside?

I'm thinking about purchasing new wheels/tires even though my new bike is only one day old. It is an absolute MUST that I be able to fix a flat on the road. And what combination would you recommend? My rear tire is 26" (10 speed cassette w/quick release) and my front tire is 20" (2.15" wide tire). And they're both presta. I would prefer Shrader since it's much more common in the U.S. (for those sizes).

A couple things you can try.

Steel tire levers from Topeak.

https://www.topeak.com/global/de/products/shop-tools/569-supersteel-tire-lever

Consider a folding bead tire. I like the ebike rated Schwalbe tires. The wire bead can be tough to remove.

 

[Howardval]

I appreciate all the replies. This issue has nothing to do with tire levers or using screw drivers. I've encountered difficult tires in the past and have the Pedros downhill lever for those instances. This is an issue with unseating the beat. All attempts at inserting anything between the tire/wheel to unseat the bead failed. The extreme pressure from any metal object was starting to damage (tear) the tire. Bottom line, there is no way to do this by one person on the side of the road. I have to replace the tires/wheels.

Mr. Coffee, thanks for some very good points. I didn't know about Alex rims having a reputation of being tight. Just to be clear, I don't have problems with getting the tire over the rim. The problem was only with breaking the bead. I'm gonna be taking off the larger 26" tire soon and seeing if it's any easier. Thanks for the advice.

 

[harryS]

The fix for a Presta valve for us power tool guys is easy, Drill out the hole to fit the Shrader. I've done it several times. Use grease on the drill bit to catch the shavings. First make sure your shrader valve tube is long enough to fit thru the wheel.

I do have a similar problem with my fatbike tires. The originals were wire bead and very hard to mount. I switched to folding bead and they slip right on, but the rubber bonds tightly to the rim. Must be something you want for a tubeless tire, but it's terrible. I am considering something on the rim to prevent that. Maybe graphite powder right by the valve.

 

[Howardval]

The fix for a Presta valve for us power tool guys is easy, Drill out the hole to fit the Shrader. I've done it several times. Use grease on the drill bit to catch the shavings. First make sure your shrader valve tube is long enough to fit thru the wheel.

I do have a similar problem with my fatbike tires. The originals were wire bead and very hard to mount. I switched to folding bead and they slip right on, but the rubber bonds tightly to the rim. Must be something you want for a tubeless tire, but it's terrible. I am considering something on the rim to prevent that. Maybe graphite powder right by the valve.

My LBS recommended talcum powder. I purchased some and applied it. Will wait a few days to see if I can take it apart again. They also suggested using talcum powder on all tubes to keep it from rotting.

 

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

Do not buy different tires. Do not change to Schrader valves. Do not use a metal screw driver or metal tire iron. Do not buy towing insurance. I run a Haibike Full FatSix with the Jumbo Jim tires so I know all about the tight grip of the tire bead around the rim. And I have had more flats then folks here might imagine possible. This is what works for me, every. single. time:

With the rim off the bike, I will seek out any grass or soft ground where I can place the tire/rim on the ground. You may wish to carry a towel or rag with you (especially if your riding area includes nothing but asphalt or rocks or dirt) as you will see here in a minute......

1. With my rim/tire on the ground, in grass or with rag; place wheel with the brake rotor facing up, towards you. Place that towel or rag under the rim at the 6 o'clock position as the rim faces you. The purpose of the towel is to avoid you from scratching your rim if it must be in dirt, sand, rock or gravel and no grass is available for you to put the rim on...

2. Standing up and with the rim directly under me, I place my right foot parallel along the rim bead edge, at the 5 and 6 o'clock position......my heel at 6 o'clock.

3. Using the heel only, push sharply with the weight of your right leg, down onto the rim/tire area. The bead will pop off the rim. You might have to do it 2 or 3 times, but it will release.

4. Turn tire over with rotor facing down, ensuring you are not putting any weight or pressure on the rotor. The only thing you want in contact with the ground is that 5 and 6 o'clock position of the rim/tire interface. Repeat with right foot. Or left if you are so inclined!

DO consider going tubeless. I ran tubes in my fatbikes for years, including Mr Tuffy tire liners and repaired so many flat tires that last summer that I reached my end of patience and conventional thinking regarding tubes; that I went tubeless. And haven't regretted that decision simply for the peace of mind tubeless provides. Of course, I carry a fancy tire plugging kit along with an air pump; also carry a spare tube in case I encounter a flat that cannot be repaired with my plugging kit. (It can happen).

I stumbled on this one day while doing a tire flat repair in the home driveway. For the life of me, I pulled and pulled on that tire with no luck. Used my plastic tire irons to try to break the bead and it only accomplished in bending the tire irons. Even tried a flat blade screwdriver before it occured to me that I am more likely to damage my tire, or slip and scratch my anodized rim. As a last resort, I tried my foot on the tire, using my body weight and suddenly, life was good again! LOL

 

[PDoz]

Do not buy different tires. Do not change to Schrader valves. Do not use a metal screw driver or metal tire iron. Do not buy towing insurance. I run a Haibike Full FatSix with the Jumbo Jim tires so I know all about the tight grip of the tire bead around the rim. And I have had more flats then folks here might imagine possible. This is what works for me, every. single. time:

With the rim off the bike, I will seek out any grass or soft ground where I can place the tire/rim on the ground. You may wish to carry a towel or rag with you (especially if your riding area includes nothing but asphalt or rocks or dirt) as you will see here in a minute......

1. With my rim/tire on the ground, in grass or with rag; place wheel with the brake rotor facing up, towards you. Place that towel or rag under the rim at the 6 o'clock position as the rim faces you. The purpose of the towel is to avoid you from scratching your rim if it must be in dirt, sand, rock or gravel and no grass is available for you to put the rim on...

2. Standing up and with the rim directly under me, I place my right foot parallel along the rim bead edge, at the 5 and 6 o'clock position......my heel at 6 o'clock.

3. Using the heel only, push sharply with the weight of your right leg, down onto the rim/tire area. The bead will pop off the rim. You might have to do it 2 or 3 times, but it will release.

4. Turn tire over with rotor facing down, ensuring you are not putting any weight or pressure on the rotor. The only thing you want in contact with the ground is that 5 and 6 o'clock position of the rim/tire interface. Repeat with right foot. Or left if you are so inclined!

DO consider going tubeless. I ran tubes in my fatbikes for years, including Mr Tuffy tire liners and repaired so many flat tires that last summer that I reached my end of patience and conventional thinking regarding tubes; that I went tubeless. And haven't regretted that decision simply for the peace of mind tubeless provides. Of course, I carry a fancy tire plugging kit along with an air pump; also carry a spare tube in case I encounter a flat that cannot be repaired with my plugging kit. (It can happen).

I stumbled on this one day while doing a tire flat repair in the home driveway. For the life of me, I pulled and pulled on that tire with no luck. Used my plastic tire irons to try to break the bead and it only accomplished in bending the tire irons. Even tried a flat blade screwdriver before it occured to me that I am more likely to damage my tire, or slip and scratch my anodized rim. As a last resort, I tried my foot on the tire, using my body weight and suddenly, life was good again! LOL

As Timpo said, another example of the motorbike ....this is how we break the bead on trail bikes - but for realy stubborn rubber we use a bead breaker eg http://www2.tyrepliers.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=66

Ps before drilling put the rim, try a presta to schraeder adapter ( only a few $ on sleazybay)

 

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

Some pictures of my final flat tire, using conventional tubes, taken late summer, 2018, about 12 miles from homebase. I remove my handlebar bag and Yamaha display, along with my flat tire repair kit in my bikepacking bag, then flip the bike upside down. Before flipping, of course, I shift the rear cassette to the highest gear and the front chain ring to the granny gear, for ease of chain removal. Then I turn the rear derailleur clutch to the Off position....

A little itty bitty thorn has ruined many a ride. Take note, that little thorn went right through the Mr Tuffy Liner. I think one of my tubes have had 6 or 7 patches on them, from the 6 or individual flat tire episodes that happened on my road trips. LOL

Tubeless update: Last month I picked up one of those itty bitty thorns in my back tire. The sealant took care of everything. But just to see how my tire plugging kit worked, when I got home, I plugged the hole caused by the thorn.....

 

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

As Timpo said, another example of the motorbike ....this is how we break the bead on trail bikes - but for realy stubborn rubber we use a bead breaker eg http://www2.tyrepliers.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=66

That's nice for a Yamaha TW200 motorcycle; but really, we are dealing with a bicycle tire and rim, nothing more. Maybe a byproduct of a tubeless ready tire made by Scwhalbe that it grips the rim bead tighter than other tire brands.

My Specialized Fatboy's rim bead was easily broken by just using my hands. The Schwalbe Jumbo Jim TLE, no way. But the ole heel trick works every single time in the field....

 

[Howardval]

As Timpo said, another example of the motorbike ....this is how we break the bead on trail bikes - but for realy stubborn rubber we use a bead breaker eg http://www2.tyrepliers.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=66

Ps before drilling put the rim, try a presta to schraeder adapter ( only a few $ on sleazybay)

Holy cow! That's EXACTLY what I need. Never knew such a thing existed. I'm buying one! And on the 2nd topic, I actually like Presta valves. But 20" tubes with Presta aren't available in the U.S. (or they're very expensive). Most are available in Europe for cheap, but shipping expense and time is very high. This is why I would much prefer a 20" wheel with Schraeder in the U.S. Thank you again!

 

[Howardval]

That's nice for a Yamaha TW200 motorcycle; but really, we are dealing with a bicycle tire and rim, nothing more. Maybe a byproduct of a tubeless ready tire made by Scwhalbe that it grips the rim bead tighter than other tire brands.

My Specialized Fatboy's rim bead was easily broken by just using my hands. The Schwalbe Jumbo Jim TLE, no way. But the ole heel trick works every single time in the field....

Hi Mike. I've been mountain biking for 30 years. I currently have a 2018 Cannondale Scalpel (regular bike) and a Haibike Full 9 6.5 (love them both and ride them often). I've owned Yeti, Trek, Specialized, Rocky Mountain, etc. in the past. I'm also a road cyclist with a Trek Emonda SLR 8.5 (skinny slick tires). Fixing flats isn't new to me. I usually carry TWO tubes on the trails as I've had two flats in one ride before. I've had my share of difficult tires and am familiar with the bag of tricks.

This 20" tire is special. Nothing like the usual tubeless or fat tire bead that I'd ever encountered. I heard the nail clicking as I rode when I was almost home. No air escaped until I got home and pulled out the nail. It was a gnarly sharp nail. Not sure a Tubeless set-up would have survived this (see pic). At home, I tried everything. Including putting it flat on cement ground (with towel) and stepping on the tire at various places and angles. Nada. Wouldn't budge. I used some hand clamps thinking it would effeminately do the job. It didn't. I also tried my Snap-On panel popper (http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/snapontool.jpg) to shove between the tire and rim. I stopped when it started damaging the tire. It still wouldn't unseal. Again, I've had my share of difficult tires in the past, but this was extremely frustrating.

Next day, I took it to the manufacturer (they are local). It's just an office with some reps. They were aware these beads are difficult, but had done them in the past. Even they couldn't unseat the bead. All three of us were pulling, tugging, and stepping on it. No go.

Then I took it to my local bike shop. 3 techs couldn't get it to unseal. They also used a Park Tools PTS-1 (https://www.parktool.com/product/tire-seater-pts-1) and it wouldn't budge. Finally, one tech used the PTS-1 to pull the tire (using both hands are pulling like crazy) and the other using a thin thick screwdriver to pry at the same time. It finally worked. They recommended I use some talcum power before putting it back together.

I want and need to be able to fix a flat on the road. This isn't negotiable. So this isn't acceptable. And I'm not calling a towing service either or buying insurance for this purpose. It's a friggin bicycle at heart! I'm going to buy the tool mentioned above (for motorcycles) and see if it can do the job. From the pictures, it looks like exactly what I need!

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

DO consider going tubeless.

This is a very good suggestion.
CERO uses 35.5mm wide rims. Almost plus size ready rims! but I assume they are TL ready.

 

[harryS]

It's not the adapters, but having to carry two styles of tubes in the same diameter for a patch kit that causes me to change my tubes to the same valve. And I seem to end up with presta valves when I upgrade a front wheel or buy a new rim.

 

[Howardval]

This is a very good suggestion.
CERO uses 35.5mm wide rims. Almost plus size ready rims! but I assume they are TL ready.

Since I live in a condo and have a small patio, I'd rather not go tubeless due to the mess! If I had a home with a private garage, I would definitely reconsider. Also, the tires/rims don't mention anything about being tubeless compatible.

 

[steve mercier]

call an UBER !

 

[Mike TowpathTraveler]

Howardval: Holy cow, that's not good! And it looks like you went above and beyond everything to unseat that tire. Totally agree with you that this is an untenable situation to continue on; however, I do have to ask if you have tried to remove that tire from its rim since the tire was unseated by your local LBS?

Looking at that ring nail, I believe the larger plug made by DynaPlug to tube bicycle tubeless tires would seal that nail hole. The company states it will seal a hole up to 1/4 inch.

I would recommend trying to unseat that tire before considering the expense of a new and more friendly to separate tire and rim.

For myself, I had my air compressor to inflate my tires in order to seat the tire to the rim, but other than that, there was no mess at all involved. As you know, there are now floor air pumps with the capability to inflate a tubeless tire & seat the rim. I honestly wish I had gone tubeless when I first bought the Haibike; it'd have spared me a ton of grief on the roads and trails I ride on.

Wishing the best outcome for ya! PS: Nice bikes in your collection there!

 

[Howardval]

Howardval: Holy cow, that's not good! And it looks like you went above and beyond everything to unseat that tire. Totally agree with you that this is an untenable situation to continue on; however, I do have to ask if you have tried to remove that tire from its rim since the tire was unseated by your local LBS?

No. I used talcum powder to put everything back together. Would like to wait a couple of weeks before attempting to take it off again. Wanted it to seal with some time before retrying.

Looking at that ring nail, I believe the larger plug made by DynaPlug to tube bicycle tubeless tires would seal that nail hole. The company states it will seal a hole up to 1/4 inch.

I'm confident it could be fixed with a plug/patch on a tubeless tire. But I highly doubt it would self seal with the sealant!

For myself, I had my air compressor to inflate my tires in order to seat the tire to the rim, but other than that, there was no mess at all involved. As you know, there are now floor air pumps with the capability to inflate a tubeless tire & seat the rim. I honestly wish I had gone tubeless when I first bought the Haibike; it'd have spared me a ton of grief on the roads and trails I ride on.

From what I understand, the mess with the fluid is when you have to take it apart. Would be much easier in a garage (which I don't have). And on the road, I guess you can always use a tube in an emergency. I also have too many tubes in my stock, so I need to use 'em up!