Fat tire that does get flats?

[murbot]

Hi,
I'm looking for my first e-bike after decades of mountain biking and now an unrelated injury that makes it difficult to pedal for long. I'm not doing the hardcore tech trails anymore. Just dirt paths with some bumps with my family, but I need something smooth'ish. Was looking at the RadRover 6, but read a lot of complaints about flats with it and other fat tires. I'm the guy in the group that got flats all the time.
What are the better options for a fat tire in the $1000-2000'ish range? Don't need crazy speed, but need some power for hills, durability and need to be able to power without pedaling. Preferably a mid-drive, but whatever would get me back out with my family for longer stretches would be great.

Thanks for any help or suggestions !!

 

[Gordon71]

Put tire liners (Mr. Tuffy) and slime (or similar) in the fat tires and you're good to go. Had my first flat on my Rover at 600 miles. Now over 3,000 miles and no flats since. Also have not had to add any air at all.

 

[AHicks]

I ride pretty much like you do. I tried a fatty and found it didn't suit me/my riding style for a number of reasons. I would suggest you try a bike with 2.2"-2.5" tires, set with the correct amount of air pressure for your weight - NOT the max psi listed on the sidewall. Something like that with a sealant (Slime is cheap and easy to find) in the tires can ride really well, and flats should be rare...

 

[JRA]

"need to be able to power without pedaling. Preferably a mid-drive"

Outside of a few mid drive DIY options that have a throttle to be able to power without pedaling you would be better off with a hub motor with a throttle if that is a criteria. The Rad would more than meet your needs especially following the flat prevention advice above.

 

[m@Robertson]

If you've got bike experience a DIY build with a Bafang mid drive kit would definitely give you the power and features you want, on a bike platform you already know. Or buy a chdap donor frame and upgrade your parts as needed.

The Stormtrooper below was a Motobecane Lurch frame I rescued on EBay, stripped and powder coated ($60 at a local shop) and built frame-up. I blew thru the budget you specified on it but you could do for example a Mongoose Dolomite, which is well known as an excellent donor frame with acceptable wheels so long as you are doing no more than mild XC/groomed trails. upgrade the rest of the bits yourself as time and budget permits.

I personally am an ex road and mtb cyclist and, after some cardiac issues, had to put an e in bike or ride a couch. I fell in love with the fat platform as once you have a motor you throw all that weight weenie stuff out the window. Biggest thing is don't weigh down your steering. Do a hardtail frame and a decent fat air fork for $300, kick in a suspension post if you really want to live the comfy life and Bob's your uncle.

 

[murbot]

Nice. Just noticed my typo in my subject. Missing "don't".

Thanks for the advice. I was ready to give up on e bikes after some of the 3 star reviews I read on various brands. Test rode a fat tire at a shop in Frederick MD this morning. It was small and only went 10 mph and was awesome !! Now I really can't wait to get a decent eBike. I'm doing the "this-bike, that-bike" dance mostly between Rad, Aventon and Himiway. Was settled on the Rad last week, and have come full circle back to it, mostly due to the better customer service experience reported.

Time to the roll the dice before things slow even more with the holidays.

 

[AHicks]

Nice. Just noticed my typo in my subject. Missing "don't".

Thanks for the advice. I was ready to give up on e bikes after some of the 3 star reviews I read on various brands. Test rode a fat tire at a shop in Frederick MD this morning. It was small and only went 10 mph and was awesome !! Now I really can't wait to get a decent eBike. I'm doing the "this-bike, that-bike" dance mostly between Rad, Aventon and Himiway. Was settled on the Rad last week, and have come full circle back to it, mostly due to the better customer service experience reported.

Time to the roll the dice before things slow even more with the holidays.

To add to that, which by itself is a pretty big deal, there are some new programs just coming on line from RAD. Like assurance local assembly is available in a lot of areas where it wasn't available previously. THEN, because the Rad bikes are so popular, THIS is the bike to have from a resale standpoint. I mention that as the first bike teaches you a ton. The big piece is whether you are going to use it enough to justify it or not, and I believe the vast majority of people end up rearranging priorities to allow MORE use! The second piece, once you find out having an e-bike around really makes sense, it's MUCH easier to justify the next bike (bigger/better/faster - or just nicer!). A lot of us start shopping for bike #2 soon after bringing bike #1 home...... -Al (hooked)

 

[murbot]

I ordered the Rad 6 last night. No regrets yet. lol
Scheduled to ship Nov. 5. Today is Nov. 2.
Added the suspension seat post and the Tannus tire protection. Ordering Flat-out from Amz. Seems to get better reviews than Slime, but it could be worse in the long run. Hoping it doesn't clog the valve. I'll get educated either way.
I figure this will be right for the easier\lighter trails I'll do going forward. The injury that makes pedaling painful caused some things that make it pretty uncomfortable for me to be too bouncy...if you get where I'm coming from. So, while the RadRover isn't exactly what I want, it's closer with more of the things that matter to me than others. I'm a diy guy with decades of collected tools and I'm usually happy to learn some new type of engineering. New to me anyway.
As long as shipping doesn't damage it so much that it can't be fixed, I'll even enjoy doing the repairs.

 

[webopus]

Hi,
I'm looking for my first e-bike after decades of mountain biking and now an unrelated injury that makes it difficult to pedal for long. I'm not doing the hardcore tech trails anymore. Just dirt paths with some bumps with my family, but I need something smooth'ish. Was looking at the RadRover 6, but read a lot of complaints about flats with it and other fat tires. I'm the guy in the group that got flats all the time.
What are the better options for a fat tire in the $1000-2000'ish range? Don't need crazy speed, but need some power for hills, durability and need to be able to power without pedaling. Preferably a mid-drive, but whatever would get me back out with my family for longer stretches would be great.

Thanks for any help or suggestions !!

HI - I use FlatOut in both my Aventon Aventure 26X4 tires and it has closed several small punctures. Only one flat caused by a 3" nail defeated it. For a slow leak you don't even need to repair the inner-tube - just pump the appropriate amount of FlatOut in the tube/tire, inflate and ride. Install FlatOut prophylactically to avoid getting flats in the first place. Great stuff!

 

[Robbie_D]

Ooh i don't like my fat tires, at all. I use 20x4 Kenda Crusade Sport. I don't think they last very long. It seems as soon as the knobby parts wear down, you're going to get flats. I let my tire wear down and was riding around on a bald tire and i went over a patch of broken glass and that was it, i got 4 flats on one roll of the wheel.

I am used to riding the usual 26" peddle bikes. There are usually abandoned bikes on the street. I would normally remove the wheels for the tires and the inner tubes (saves money). Try to find an abandoned fat bike - no way is that going to happen.
So, since having a fat bike, i have to spend $80 CAD on each tire which will last 365 days. Kind of costly for me. Having a bike is to save money.

I tried Slime in my tires for a slow leak and it stopped the slow leak BUT when i was on the road and i encountered a real flat, forget about it...the Slime went EVERYWHERE and made a mess of the fender, all of the inside of the tire and the inner tube and it happened within seconds. Slime did nothing but make a mess. When i got home and tried to patch the hole, the Slime would ooze out when i applied pressure. I had to remove the tire valve and use the shower hose in the bath tube to rinse the Slime out of the inner tube. Then i was able put on a patch successfully. I think the trouble with Slime in a fat tire is the fat tires are too supple.

My bike weighs about 48 lbs without the battery. Those Tuffy liners, i heard, are kind of heavy. I have to carry my bike up two short flights of stairs to the second floor.

I had a flat recently and it looked like somebody stuck a penknife into my fat tire. I was on the road when this happened. When i fixed the flat and pumped air, the inner tube was protruding through the now big slit.
All pumped up, it looked as though something bit a hole in my tire and removed a chunk of rubber. Unbelievable.
I thought about Tuffys but instead, i patched the tire on the inside with a large patch and then i cut out the side from a plastic yogurt container, large enough to cover the patch, and i glued that plastic piece to the patch with Shoe Goo. Then i put duct tape (hey, i'm Canadian, eh) over that, let it dry for a few seconds, and then i put the inner tube in and pumped it up right away so it would hold it in place.

For the outside of the tire, the orange color of the bottom of the patch, i used on the inside, was visible when looking at the tire from above.
So, what i did was cut off a piece of rubber from an old inner tube and cut it to fit perfectly over the hole/slit and then i used the Shoe Goo again, and it's still holding. I can no longer even see the big hole in the tire from above since i used the inner tube and Shoe Goo to hold it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Repair-Adhesive-Fixing-Shoes-3-7-Ounce/dp/B002L9AL84

 

[Gordon71]

Ooh i don't like my fat tires, at all. I use 20x4 Kenda Crusade Sport. I don't think they last very long. It seems as soon as the knobby parts wear down, you're going to get flats. I let my tire wear down and was riding around on a bald tire and i went over a patch of broken glass and that was it, i got 4 flats on one roll of the wheel.

I am used to riding the usual 26" peddle bikes. There are usually abandoned bikes on the street. I would normally remove the wheels for the tires and the inner tubes (saves money). Try to find an abandoned fat bike - no way is that going to happen.
So, since having a fat bike, i have to spend $80 CAD on each tire which will last 365 days. Kind of costly for me. Having a bike is to save money.

I tried Slime in my tires for a slow leak and it stopped the slow leak BUT when i was on the road and i encountered a real flat, forget about it...the Slime went EVERYWHERE and made a mess of the fender, all of the inside of the tire and the inner tube and it happened within seconds. Slime did nothing but make a mess. When i got home and tried to patch the hole, the Slime would ooze out when i applied pressure. I had to remove the tire valve and use the shower hose in the bath tube to rinse the Slime out of the inner tube. Then i was able put on a patch successfully. I think the trouble with Slime in a fat tire is the fat tires are too supple.

My bike weighs about 48 lbs without the battery. Those Tuffy liners, i heard, are kind of heavy. I have to carry my bike up two short flights of stairs to the second floor.

I had a flat recently and it looked like somebody stuck a penknife into my fat tire. I was on the road when this happened. When i fixed the flat and pumped air, the inner tube was protruding through the now big slit.
All pumped up, it looked as though something bit a hole in my tire and removed a chunk of rubber. Unbelievable.
I thought about Tuffys but instead, i patched the tire on the inside with a large patch and then i cut out the side from a plastic yogurt container, large enough to cover the patch, and i glued that plastic piece to the patch with Shoe Goo. Then i put duct tape (hey, i'm Canadian, eh) over that, let it dry for a few seconds, and then i put the inner tube in and pumped it up right away so it would hold it in place.

For the outside of the tire, the orange color of the bottom of the patch, i used on the inside, was visible when looking at the tire from above.
So, what i did was cut off a piece of rubber from an old inner tube and cut it to fit perfectly over the hole/slit and then i used the Shoe Goo again, and it's still holding. I can no longer even see the big hole in the tire from above since i used the inner tube and Shoe Goo to hold it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Repair-Adhesive-Fixing-Shoes-3-7-Ounce/dp/B002L9AL84

The stock 26X4 Kenda's on my Rad Rover now have over 3,000 miles and two years on them and still have tread. I had one flat at 600 miles. I put Tuffy liners and slimed them right after and have not had a flat since nor have I had to ad air. I keep 20lbs in them which is the recommended pressure.

 

[murbot]

The stock 26X4 Kenda's on my Rad Rover now have over 3,000 miles and two years on them and still have tread. I had one flat at 600 miles. I put Tuffy liners and slimed them right after and have not had a flat since nor have I had to ad air. I keep 20lbs in them which is the recommended pressure.

I removed the 3" CST Big Boat tires the Mini 4 is currently shipping with 2 days after receiving the bike and installed the only 4x20" tire I could afford at the time. Mongoose. I regret it. Should have spent the extra $100 and gotten something better. They're too soft, can fold over on themselves and wear quickly. The Tannus foam I'm using is the only reason I haven't already replaced them.

I installed (with some help) the tires and the Tannus foam, no Slime. The ride is noticeably softer with the Tannus stuff in there, but if I do get a flat, there is little chance I'll deal with repairing while on the trail. The Mongoose tires are extremely difficult to remove and install, especially with the Tannus stuff in there. Broke 2 Park levers trying and I've changed more tires (quickly) over the last 25 years than any riding buddies.

That said, I enjoy the ride, but want to try the K-Rad 3.3 to compare and see if riding, turning etc is better. But I'll probably end up with the Krusades or Juggernauts.

 

[m@Robertson]

If you get a slit in a tire that cuts its underlying cords, all the Shoegoo in the world will not uncut them. Your tire is done at that point. I'm saying that as someone who swears by ShoeGoo to repair tires that have big holes in them. For anyone that doesn't know, Shoegoo can be used as an artificial shoe leather and its tougher than your tire rubber. But slits? Forget it that tire is toast.

Put a hole big enough to blow slime all over the place and thats going to be a mess regardless of the tire size. Its the same cut from the same hunk of steel or glass no matter the tire that ran over it.

Kenda tires are basic oem tires that are not particularly durable. A Chaoyang Sandstorm in 20x4.0 and 30 tpi wears like iron and is still pretty sticky. I have thousands of miles on those. They are sold under many brand names including Origin8 and Panaracer. All the same tire. Also a Chaoyang Big Daddy in 20x4.0 is good for a few thousand as well. That is sold as an Origin8 Tsunami, a Panaracer Fat B Nimble, an Arisun Big Fatty. A Mongoose label whose name I forget... same deal its all the same tire.

But if your idea of acceptable parts is junk off of scrap found in the street... you aren't going to find much advice on that score. Junk is junk.

 

[murbot]

If you get a slit in a tire that cuts its underlying cords, all the Shoegoo in the world will not uncut them. Your tire is done at that point. I'm saying that as someone who swears by ShoeGoo to repair tires that have big holes in them. For anyone that doesn't know, Shoegoo can be used as an artificial shoe leather and its tougher than your tire rubber. But slits? Forget it that tire is toast.

Put a hole big enough to blow slime all over the place and thats going to be a mess regardless of the tire size. Its the same cut from the same hunk of steel or glass no matter the tire that ran over it.

Kenda tires are basic oem tires that are not particularly durable. A Chaoyang Sandstorm in 20x4.0 and 30 tpi wears like iron and is still pretty sticky. I have thousands of miles on those. They are sold under many brand names including Origin8 and Panaracer. All the same tire. Also a Chaoyang Big Daddy in 20x4.0 is good for a few thousand as well. That is sold as an Origin8 Tsunami, a Panaracer Fat B Nimble, an Arisun Big Fatty. A Mongoose label whose name I forget... same deal its all the same tire.

But if your idea of acceptable parts is junk off of scrap found in the street... you aren't going to find much advice on that score. Junk is junk.

Built my last scrap parts bike when I was a kid. Got what I paid for.
Thanks for the tire brand advice. Opinions are tire brand reliability and endurance is just one of the things I need to catch up on. I've gotten flats from rim slips and tears, rock concussions, weird metal scraps and a tiny thorn stuck in the tire that punctured the tube in a ball shaped pattern of repeated jabs until a small section completely gave way. Over and over, I was the one with the flat tires. The Tannus (want to call it Thanos so badly) foam has a nice cushion effect and I can feel the extra layer of protection it provides. Looking forward to warmer weather (east coast US) and hitting some trails.