Fat bikes a fad?
- Thread starter Cyklefanatic
- Start date
pmcdonald
Well-Known Member
About half a decade ago for a period of about a year you'd see a tonne of unpowered fat bikes tootling around the suburbs. Since then I'd be lucky to count them on one hand annually. Round these parts that points to 'fad'. We have no snow and sand riding isn't really a thing here (you'd probably be told to bugger of by the lifeguards). Lots to people bike to the beach, just not on them. I see the utility value of fat bikes in other parts of the country and abroad.
CdnShaun
Active Member
The fad that's been around since 2005, when Surly introduced the Pugsley and setting into motion every major manufacturer building their own fatbike.
I got into fatbikes in 2015, after realizing my new Trek Soho DLX, while looking fine tooling around the local neighborhoods, could never take me off road, especially the deep sugar sand roads of the New Jersey Pine Barrens. I knew that for years, having tried my old Trek 9000, fitted with Michelin Wild Gripper Lite tires in the Pine Barrens and sinking in that sand.
I rode my new Specialized FatBoy for over 2 years, putting about 4 thousand miles on the bike. Thought nothing of it, riding on my asphalt rides from home and back, 20 miles, 30, 50. Off road on the canal towpaths or Pine Barrens. It's a 4 season, go anywhere, any time bike. You won't set speed records, but the ride feel will be exceptional.
The FatBoy gave way to the full suspended Haibike Full FatSix in the spring of 2017. Some 10,500 miles later, I still remain addicted to the fatbike. Like the FatBoy, I ride it everywhere. Like, a 60 mile round trip, 99% asphalt riding, 3 Sunday's ago. A 46 mile ride on asphalt last week. A 100 mile round trip from home, east to the Atlantic Ocean and back home, last summer. Running in High Power, I can squeeze out near 45 miles on the Yamaha drive system if I shift up and down to meet the road conditions & spin the cranks.
The Full FatSix IS the Yamaha TW200 of the fat ebiking world. It's stability and float in sand or loose dirt conditions cannot be matched by a 2.6 inch mountain tire, let alone a commuter tread. Aired down, it will float on top of sugar sand that will have every other skinny tired bike stalled out and dug down in the sand. In an urban situation, it would be the one true ideal commuter; with today's frost heaved, pot-holed cracked roads, the combination of shocks and low psi gives the best ride feel possible.
5 plus years of experience riding these bikes exclusively helped form my unshakeable opinion.
My first fat boy and only non-e bike left is also a 2015 Specialized Fat Boy. For a second I thought about putting a mid-drive on it but it works so well as is I chose to keep it non-e and love getting out on it year round for a change of pace.
I do miss the motor a little at first each time I ride it when I do take it out but adjust quickly back to the non-e experience and enjoy it for what it is. Having at least one non-e bike I find is helpful in judging my overall fitness better when I compare previous recorded rides on it as the years go on.
GypsyTreker
Well-Known Member
Love my fattie. Probably is one of those marketed solutions looking for problem to solve. So what?.
Im pushing 70, have some physical issues ,balance due to mild inner ear being one and fatties give me a sense of stability. Im in no hurry, rolling resistance is not even on my radar as far as a requirement. About half the year we are in Florida and its Fat tires required if you want to ride out in the scrub.
So if its a fad its been a successful one. I am blown away at the asking price of used fat tires on eBay. I wanted to possibly do a mid-drive with internal hub shifting, gates belt. I figured the Dolimite was not up to speed so a Surley might be better. A Haibike or Watt Wagon looked way more economical. Anyway, tire mfg will determine how much longer the trend lasts.
Im pushing 70, have some physical issues ,balance due to mild inner ear being one and fatties give me a sense of stability. Im in no hurry, rolling resistance is not even on my radar as far as a requirement. About half the year we are in Florida and its Fat tires required if you want to ride out in the scrub.
So if its a fad its been a successful one. I am blown away at the asking price of used fat tires on eBay. I wanted to possibly do a mid-drive with internal hub shifting, gates belt. I figured the Dolimite was not up to speed so a Surley might be better. A Haibike or Watt Wagon looked way more economical. Anyway, tire mfg will determine how much longer the trend lasts.
FlatSix911
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Silicon Valley
I agree, and also have a EMTB with the 2.8" wide tires.
Here is what Court has to say about the Best Fat EBikes...
Table of Contents:
- Best Premium Fat Electric Bike
- Best Value Fat Electric Bike
- Best Affordable Fat Electric Bike
- Promoted Fat Electric Bike
- Honorable Mention Fat Electric Bike
- Intended Use. Do you only want the rugged looks, comfort, and flexibility of an in-town fat ebike? In that case, a less powerful, heavier, cheaper model will do. However, if you plan to climb mountains, cross sandy beaches, or carry heavy loads, then you’ll want a more powerful motor, larger battery, and upgraded components. Look and pay for the things you will actually use.
- Throttle. Depending on your location, throttles may or may not be allowed. Most North American countries allow them, while European countries do not. If you plan to ride on dry sand, packed snow, or soft damp forest trails, a throttle can help you start and balance more easily.
- Motor. Think about the total combined weight of your body, bike, and cargo. Next, think about the terrain. Will you be riding off-road, navigating through soft terrain, or climbing steep mountains? Get the right type of motor with enough power to meet your needs. Motors can range from 250 to 750 watts depending on the laws where you live, I consider a 500 watt nominal motor to be very powerful. Mid-drive motors tend to be more efficient and make servicing the drivetrain and fixing flat tires easier. However, mid-drives usually cost more than hub motors, and rarely offer throttle operation.
- Battery. Match the needs of your motor and type of riding with battery power and capacity. 36 volt battery systems are typical, but 48 volt batteries are efficient and improve power output. When sizing batteries, think about total weight, terrain, and distance. You want enough capacity to get there and back, even if it means buying a second battery. Fat ebikes are heavier, and the tires produce more drag, so it’s no fun if you run out of power and have to pedal back unassisted. Consider bringing a charger along, just in case you hit a detour or want to ride farther.
- Brakes, Frame, and Suspension. Hydraulic brakes are easier to use but mechanical brakes cost less and are easier to adjust. Large disc brake rotors improve stopping power and maximize cooling. This is important as fat ebike wheels, tires, and frames are all bigger and weigh more. Planning to climb mountains, go off-road, or carry cargo? Then look for a stronger frame, nicer components, and perhaps a suspension fork and seatpost or full suspension.
- Wheels and Tires. Larger wheels ride smoother, smaller are more maneuverable. Most full-sized electric fat bikes use 26″ wheels because the extra-wide tires add additional height to the wheel. You may see 20″ wheels with fat tires on folding fat ebikes. Select a tire size and tread that suits your terrain. Use knobby tires for climbing, smaller knobs or checkerboard for cross country, and lower tire pressure when riding on sand. For city use, consider smoother tires which are quieter and have less resistance.
Last edited:
legsofbeer
Active Member
It's not an obsession, just that they look cool and perform well in urban environments. If my primary riding were technical descents no way would I have an E fatty, something like a haibike or e-bulls would be in order. Yes, a fatty is a stupid design for a human-powered bike barring some narrow loose terrain scenarios. But put in a 80-something NM motor and a 670 Wh battery, and you have something useful.
Why it works in urban environments:
-fully upright posture makes defensive biking much easier
-you ignore potholes, light rail tracks, broken beer bottles, branches, co-aligned sewer grates, etc. When I go back to my regular road bike I have to remind myself to switch modes.
-the tire noise alerts pedestrians and slower bikers that there's something coming up on the left without you having to ding at them
-even though one is much better off getting hit by a balloony fatty tire than a road-bike tire, the intimidation factor is much better on the fatty. Joggers running the wrong way in the bike lane get out of the way the moment they see me on the fatty. Not so much when I'm on the road bike.
-it's really convenient to be able to bump over any curb or run up a small flight of stairs at speed.
-the bike already weighs near 70 lb, so adding a heavy chain or a real electric horn doesn't change performance noticeably.
The urban downside:
-tire is 4 inches wide, compared with a 1 or 2 inch tire, thats 4 or 2 times the chance of "collecting" the nail or screw in your path. 3 flats in 1950 miles.
-doesn't fit on bus bike racks so you're walking or taxiing home in event of a rear flat
-due to the fat tires, it is about 6-7 inches longer than a comparable non-cargo bike, and that eats storage
-it attracts thieves' attention
Range is decent: I get the claimed 25 miles on full power (knowing that I'll be grinding the last 2 miles on limited power), 35 miles on half power, 55 miles on 1/6th power (tested that when the bike was 600 miles old, daily commute is 5 miles each way with one 400 foot hill and maybe 10 stops). Riding the bike with no power, 8mph is comfortable, with effort can get it up to 12 mph. Acceleration is very slow unpowered. Since almost all my riding is urban I keep rear tire at max recommended inflation, front tire at 80%. Front shock is permitted 1/3 of full travel.
I do have access to beaches and muddy trails, but don't really have a desire to get debris into my drive train. Maybe when I replace the chain I'll try it on that.
When I bought it, it was an experiment, but figured if I didn't like it I could dump it at about a 20% loss for the "rental". I haven't dumped it and when I reach 2000 miles will be re-shoeing it, brakes and tires.
I live in the Los Angeles suburbs, San Fernando Valley. Lots of people ride the Rad Rover. Local bike shops have plenty of fat tire electric bikes. Most of the electric bikes I see have fat tires. We don’t get snow. We are 30 miles from the beach. We don’t have many trails where ebikes are allowed. But fat tire ebikes are very popular. I have a wonderful Specialized Como, not fat tire. But for some unfathomable reason I find the fat tire bikes appealing. I do also have a folder with 20x3 tires. The semi fat tires are cushy and kind of fun. I do wonder why the fat tire bikes are so numerous in my area.
Cyklefanatic
Well-Known Member
I see the LR Thudbuster on your one bike. With all the cushiness of the tires why the the need for more suspension?The fad that's been around since 2005, when Surly introduced the Pugsley and setting into motion every major manufacturer building their own fatbike.
I got into fatbikes in 2015, after realizing my new Trek Soho DLX, while looking fine tooling around the local neighborhoods, could never take me off road, especially the deep sugar sand roads of the New Jersey Pine Barrens. I knew that for years, having tried my old Trek 9000, fitted with Michelin Wild Gripper Lite tires in the Pine Barrens and sinking in that sand.
I rode my new Specialized FatBoy for over 2 years, putting about 4 thousand miles on the bike. Thought nothing of it, riding on my asphalt rides from home and back, 20 miles, 30, 50. Off road on the canal towpaths or Pine Barrens. It's a 4 season, go anywhere, any time bike. You won't set speed records, but the ride feel will be exceptional.
The FatBoy gave way to the full suspended Haibike Full FatSix in the spring of 2017. Some 10,500 miles later, I still remain addicted to the fatbike. Like the FatBoy, I ride it everywhere. Like, a 60 mile round trip, 99% asphalt riding, 3 Sunday's ago. A 46 mile ride on asphalt last week. A 100 mile round trip from home, east to the Atlantic Ocean and back home, last summer. Running in High Power, I can squeeze out near 45 miles on the Yamaha drive system if I shift up and down to meet the road conditions & spin the cranks.
The Full FatSix IS the Yamaha TW200 of the fat ebiking world. It's stability and float in sand or loose dirt conditions cannot be matched by a 2.6 inch mountain tire, let alone a commuter tread. Aired down, it will float on top of sugar sand that will have every other skinny tired bike stalled out and dug down in the sand. In an urban situation, it would be the one true ideal commuter; with today's frost heaved, pot-holed cracked roads, the combination of shocks and low psi gives the best ride feel possible.
5 plus years of experience riding these bikes exclusively helped form my unshakeable opinion.
Cyklefanatic
Well-Known Member
Since starting this post I have learned a lot about the best use case for a fat bike. The most popular replies seem to be they are good for sand, snow and soft rides.
No beaches anywhere near where I live and the ones I am aware of are small and would never allow bikes. For winter riding I wait for the snow ploughs to clear the roads before I take my narrow tire bike out. I do only road and rail trail riding so a cushy ride is not really a problem.
So I get it it’s a another use case that has caught on with some people just buying them for looks.
Thanks for the enlightenment.
GypsyTreker
Well-Known Member
I would say your conclusion is pretty accurate. Style is what style does. It's totally ok, in my book, to buy something purely for the "cool" factor.
6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
I used to borrow a friend's conventional fat bike and ride sandy trails with him on occasion. It is indeed a different experience. I had to give it up though due to joint issues. I suppose an e-fat bike would work for me but I don't ride those beach trails anymore. I have nothing against fat bikes. They are just not for me these days but hey, whatever floats your boat.
The only other comment I can make is a personal one and certainly doesn't apply to all riders. Due to fast changing E-bike regulations, I'm more concerned about stealth where I ride. Fat bikes are rather conspicuous and draw attention due to their "beefy" design. Although there are conventional fatties out there, most of the ones I see on the trails now are the E variety.
The only other comment I can make is a personal one and certainly doesn't apply to all riders. Due to fast changing E-bike regulations, I'm more concerned about stealth where I ride. Fat bikes are rather conspicuous and draw attention due to their "beefy" design. Although there are conventional fatties out there, most of the ones I see on the trails now are the E variety.
Captain Slow
Well-Known Member
I hope it's a fad, not a fan myself.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
how can they get more popular every mass produced bike has them pretty much.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Pretty sure it's about flotation and traction. For instance, can you imagine a quad with skinny tires? Bonus on an e-bike would be ride.
Cyklefanatic
Well-Known Member
Yes the more knobby the tire the more noise it generates. That is part of the energy loss. I love the silence of my Brose motor but some riders like the presence of a louder tire.
TForan
Well-Known Member
Get an Archon X1 3000w controller from WattWagons.
I'm sure that might be fun but I never thought when riding it, gee, I wish I had more power. And chain wear has to be considered too.
Mike TowpathTraveler
Well-Known Member
On pavement, I would run the Specialized Ground Control tires at the max allowable pressure (20 psi). This helped ensure the power I was putting down was not being lost in those wrinkled sidewalls as well as getting the maximum speed in any downhill situation.
With these tires pumped up, there is no suspension effect. Instead what you get is a bounce, like a basketball. While low psi is great for deep sand or snow, out on pavement, it's a good way to bend a rim should you hit a deep pothole or rut.
These days on the Haibike, I run the Schwalbes at about 23-25 psi on hard asphalt.
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