eMTB Options For 2024

[PDoz]

I rolled to the top of a steep gully and needed a quick stab of power to get over the lip. Unfortunately I didn't realize the SL was turned off so I got zero assistance. And zero progress. It must have looked hilarious with this fat cyclist running out of human torque....stop, and then topple sideways. Unfortunately sideways was also down and I went from up over the bars to about 6 feet down the hill, upside down with the bike on top of me. So about a 10 foot drop onto the back of my head.

I hit the ground hard, head first, and can confirm the bell super is a fantastic helmet! There was enough of a thunk that I'll be replacing it, but I wasn't knocked out and surprisingly my neck survived.

Would you believe the oneup components flat pedals were still gripping my shoes even though I was upside down?

Stationary crashes...my speciality

Added bonus - the bell super air is finally back in stock, I've been waiting 2 years to find one and today they are 25% off !! So I scored a super air for the same price as a plain super - lighter, better breathing, happy Paul!

 

[Nomad]

Well, I have picked my option and I think the name shall be Night Mare but ...... will wait till the horse arrives to make a decision regarding the name and reveal from what line it comes! In the mean time what Sram cassette is closes to the XT Shimano in there line up? Not which is better.

 

[PDoz]

Well, I have picked my option and I think the name shall be Night Mare but ...... will wait till the horse arrives to make a decision regarding the name and reveal from what line it comes! In the mean time what Sram cassette is closes to the XT Shimano in there line up? Not which is better.

It's not that easy - ie 11 sp / 12 sp ? Are you looking at swapping between brands or just trying to compare spec level? Are you interested in longevity or weight? Are you sitting down? Trust me, sit down before looking at sram cassette prices.

Most importantly, WHY swap from an xt cassette ??? They are relatively light, wear great, and a LOT cheaper than an equivalent sram. If you are looking at swapping wheels - have you considered just swapping drivers so you can keep the xt cassette?

For what it's worth, I'm about to try a garbaruk cassette - it's an interesting prospect. The main 11 sprockets are milled from a single chrome molly block then the large 1 st gear is an alloy . Light and reportedly durable , but about as expensive as a comparable sram. I chose it because it's the lightest option to replace an sram nx 12 sp cassette ( that uses the shimano hg driver) -300 gm weight saving and likely to be more durable.

 

[Nomad]

It's not that easy - ie 11 sp / 12 sp ? Are you looking at swapping between brands or just trying to compare spec level? Are you interested in longevity or weight? Are you sitting down? Trust me, sit down before looking at sram cassette prices.

Most importantly, WHY swap from an xt cassette ??? They are relatively light, wear great, and a LOT cheaper than an equivalent sram. If you are looking at swapping wheels - have you considered just swapping drivers so you can keep the xt cassette?

For what it's worth, I'm about to try a garbaruk cassette - it's an interesting prospect. The main 11 sprockets are milled from a single chrome molly block then the large 1 st gear is an alloy . Light and reportedly durable , but about as expensive as a comparable sram. I chose it because it's the lightest option to replace an sram nx 12 sp cassette ( that uses the shimano hg driver) -300 gm weight saving and likely to be more durable.

Good points I am talking 12sp with 10 tooth but not talking about swapping it with a XT but more about what is it's counter part?

 

[PDoz]

Ok, 12 sp - think VERY carefully before changing. 12 sp can be really sensitive to accurate set up , and not very tolerant of mismatched brand equipment.

Apart from the obvious need to have a different driver, the 12 sp shifters have subtle differences in indexing, so you will struggle to use an sram cassette with shimano shifter - they work, but getting a clean shift at either end of the cassette will be difficult unless you replace the shifter and possibly the derailleur as well. ( sorry, my eyes glazed over when the lbs started talking about which were more tolerant in combination)

You may even be up for a new chain , or at least a new split link ( shimano links are slightly thinner, I notice my daughters sram plays up between 3/4 with shimano chains - it took half and hour of fiddling before realising my mistake) .

I'm still coming to terms with 12 sp - I hated it at first and really resent how much extra effort it takes to keep them shifting well, but I must confess I've been impressed with how long it's lasting on my levo sl. I just replaced the first chainwheel but the chain and cassette are original and shifting clean / measuring up as less than 50% worn. I'm getting at least twice the lifespan compared to various 11 sp units in our home fleet ( both sram and shimano ) . My theory is the gap between shifts is less +/- there is less side loading underpower during shifts - I'm definitely less likely to hear that horrible clunk. Or perhaps I'm finally learning how to shift?

 

[PDoz]

Ps in answer to your question re cassette

Xt shimano - technically x0 sram, but the gx is close. If function is more important than weight, gx is " good enough" - solid pinned, reasonable metals etc. But technically gx is competing with slx rather than xt. The gx can be easily bent, though - another reason to consider garbjunkwhatever its called?

If I'm buying shimano cassettes , I'm not fussy between xt and slx. The xt is easier to install, lighter, and seems to last a bit longer - but I'd buy whichever was available / on special.

Different story with derailleur and shifters - xt is noticeable nicer imho. They click rather than clunk

 

[Nomad]

Ps in answer to your question re cassette
Heres w
Xt shimano - technically x0 sram, but the gx is close. If function is more important than weight, gx is " good enough" - solid pinned, reasonable metals etc. But technically gx is competing with slx rather than xt. The gx can be easily bent, though - another reason to consider garbjunkwhatever its called?

If I'm buying shimano cassettes , I'm not fussy between xt and slx. The xt is easier to install, lighter, and seems to last a bit longer - but I'd buy whichever was available / on special.

Different story with derailleur and shifters - xt is noticeable nicer imho. They click rather than clunk

Here's what I'm getting at is a Sram axs setup it's a little confusing as to weather the gx or x0 compares to XT when you take out the weight factor. As far SLX vs XT it's not just weight it's profile difference for me the XT is worth it but not the XTR cassette. It's almost like GX is in between the 2. As far as the mix and match between the to brands I think at best it's probably a hair off so i stay away from that. Thanks for your in put.

 

[PDoz]

Here's what I'm getting at is a Sram axs setup it's a little confusing as to weather the gx or x0 compares to XT when you take out the weight factor. As far SLX vs XT it's not just weight it's profile difference for me the XT is worth it but not the XTR cassette. It's almost like GX is in between the 2. As far as the mix and match between the to brands I think at best it's probably a hair off so i stay away from that. Thanks for your in put.

I think gx is between xt and slx - ie below xt. The gx seems to be a softer metal so wears quicker than xt , but this might bd because the last 2 gx my daughter had got cogs bent and wore prematurely?

 

[Nomad]

I think gx is between xt and slx - ie below xt. The gx seems to be a softer metal so wears quicker than xt , but this might bd because the last 2 gx my daughter had got cogs bent and wore prematurely?

I'm going to be using a gx axs derailler with XG 1275 cassette 10-50 tooth. Will see how it compares to my other bike with a xtr derailler,xtr shifter and xt Rythm cassette 10-45 tooth. The cassette is what will be interesting as the Sram is less then 20 more if it shifts as good and last a tad longer

 

[Nomad]

picked up my new horse today few things to do before I ride it like put the Ridewrap on when comes in. Change out the pedals. Find which xd driver fits the stock rear wheel of my 2022 reign e2. Well one more day of work and time to start getting her dialed in.

 

[Browneye]

picked up my new horse today few things to do before I ride it like put the Ridewrap on when comes in. Change out the pedals. Find which xd driver fits the stock rear wheel of my 2022 reign e2. Well one more day of work and time to start getting her dialed in.

Awesome. We need pics.

 

[Nomad]

Awesome. We need pics.

I'll have to snap some pics by the end of the week. The Ridewrap came in today was hoping it was going to get here a little earlier so I could apply it today. I put the new candy pedals on today with lube unlike the one it came with and torqued to spec.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

torqued to spec.

Is there a spec for pedal tightening torque?!

 

[Nomad]

Is there a spec for pedal tightening torque?!

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! yes. Dealing with stuck pedals sucks.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! yes. Dealing with stuck pedals sucks.

You know what I do? Use some Shimano Anti-Seize paste on the threads, then delicately tighten the pedal thread with an ordinary hex wrench. The pedal threads do not need to be strongly tightened at all!

 

[PDoz]

You know what I do? Use some Shimano Anti-Seize paste on the threads, then delicately tighten the pedal thread with an ordinary hex wrench. The pedal threads do not need to be strongly tightened at all!

this is a mtb , our pedals don't just gently spin around in a predictable and repetitive fashion. We slam them into rocks, load them in every conceivable direction , AND bounce along 4x4 tracks with the bike hanging off the back of the car.

Torque and check everything regularly.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Isn't is a fact PDoz that opposite thread direction on L and R pedals means the pedal thread is just tightened itself the harder you pedal?

 

[PDoz]

Isn't is a fact PDoz that opposite thread direction on L and R pedals means the pedal thread is just tightened itself the harder you pedal?

Again, these are mountain bikes - we don't just spin the pedals in a single direction.

At any given time I might be loading my rear pedal backwards / applying sideways force to flick the rear out / pumping both cranks in opposite directions to launch or land the bike. The forces the pedals and cranks are subjected to are incredible and varied.

I have a pile of worn out pedals with twisted pins or bent shafts. My right side crank on the SL is currently awaiting replacement because it's worn where it meets the motor ( so even torqued up, there is slop between the crank and new motor) - these bikes cop a beating and it's MUCH more significant / unpredictable than your gravel bike

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have a pile of worn out pedals with twisted pins or bent shafts.

I own a pair of such twisted pedals, too. Another pair of pedals has the bearings stuck.
So: what is the recommended tightening torque for pedals?

The reason I'm asking is the 2020 Turbo Levo User Manual does not give any answer to my question

 

[PDoz]

My one up components spec " min 35 nm"