Ecotric 20" Folding Fatbike

harryS

Well-Known Member
Ordered a white one for $779 on Amazon, but seller had a mixup and shipped black. We settled on a small rebate. I thought the seller EGO-LLC, responded very quick to questions about delivery. I would give him a positive rating for trying to make the sale work, and he did.

Assembly is easy. Mount the front wheel. Adjust the disks. Pivot the steering tube and latch it. Slip the handlebars thru the stem and lock them down. Attach the front fender. Screw in pedals (the only provided tool was a pedal wrench). Some trivial items were the faux leather grips mounted upside down, and I will have to rotate the controls. Likewise, the LED control is off by 45 degrees. The steerer stem is also off by a bit. When I find my allen wrench set, I'll fix all of that and adjust the brakes.

The bike is big and relatively heavy at over 50 pounds. The 20" tires are 23.25" high. It kind of dwarfs a standard 20" folder. I suppose that's good if you want a fatbike.

P1110411.jpg P1110414.jpg P1110399.jpg

The handlebars look naked with only the 810LED display and thumb shifter. It does come with a single ding bell. I'm quite familiar with the display as I have one on my first ebike, When powered up, pedal assist and throttle are always on. There are three assist levels, which will take you to 12 mph, 15 mph and 18 mph with a decent cadence level. The throttle ran me up past 19 mph. I measured speed with a $7 bike computer. I believe it's accurate. It takes the wheel circumference to the nearest cm.

I believe there is a speed limiter circuit on the controller, basically a connector that is opened. However, the above speeds are already about what a 36V bike with bigger tires should attain, so we'll see about that circuit later.

P1110406.jpg P1110384.jpg P1110390.jpg

The brake wires and display cable are neatly wrapped up with the brake/shifter cabes. It has a 17A controller, which is fine for a bike like this, The motor cable has a disconnect which might facilitate working on flat tires. From my experience, if you want to go up to 48V, you will need to change the controller, This is really just a putting around bike with fat tires though, so I don't see any reason to do that. You might get 22-23 mph at 48V.

Haven't done much riding all year, but it seemed to pedal easy w/o power. The thumb shifter worked perfectly. I pumped the tires up to 20 psi. Rides stiffer than my 26" fatbike, but that has nuch better tires. Feels pretty stable though. Also wanted to mebtion that the brake levers are nice quality. The knurled cable adjusters feel like they were machined rather than cast with threads in place. I bet they're still cast, just better,.

When Spring comes, maybe I can get a longer ride to see how the battery does.

For $779 shipped and no sales tax, it seems like a nice bike to me. You'll want a mirror and a bike computer.

It's just an impulse buy for me. My wife likes her folding bike and I had thought this would be better for gravel rail trails. I think it is better, but she might feel it's too large. When SPring comes....
 
My wife took it around the block (1/2 mile) today. She thought it was nice, but pointed out that the Tektro disks ain't as good as the v-brakes in our downtube folders. I'll have to do another adjust.

I will be changing out the front forks to Pasco Suspension for a little less bouncy ride. Tha's $85. Probably get less springy tires too.

SInce she is used to 5 level PAS and a Kt controllers ,it's a good thing I have a spare one in my parts box.
 
Last edited:
Up to 51F today. About what it was on our last riding day near the Villages in Florida last January. Took first real ride on it. My wife rode 7 miles and I rode 5 miles later.

I think the tires are too hard, even at 15 psi. WIll try 10 psi tomorrow. I'm got some 2.5" BMX tires coming in next week. These rims are about 2" on the inside, so that might work. Also waiting for ebay supplier to restock the 20" fatbike suspension fork I want. I could order direct from China but that seller won't take paypal.


Mounted a $17 rack on it. It's a busy rack with lots of struts, but only a rack with clamps will fit. The calipers on the other side prevent use of the holes for fender struts.
P1110565.jpg
 
20 x 2.4" BMX tires. I couldn't find any 20x2.4" inner tubes, so I used standard 20x2.1". Hope they don't pop. The original tires were very easy to remove.

I weighed them. Saves about a pound of rolling rubber. Lowers the bike by at least two inches, and my wife will like the lower stand over height.

The ride seems better. I should have tried lowering the air in the fat tires, but I'm keeping these anyway.

P1110567.jpg P1110583.JPG P1110582.JPG P1110573.JPG
 
The inner tubes were too small for the above 2.3" tires and they rolled off on my test ride. I found a bigger 20" x 3.0" tire and also proper size tube. These were for cruiser bikes as white walls were available.

Raises the bike height again, but fills the fender better. Put them up to 20 PSI and it's a nice ride,

Up to about 25 miles on first charge. The battery voltage is down to 38 volts. Should get 30 mile range,
P1110595.JPG P1110598.JPG
 
We now have 50 miles on the little fatbike, which isn't so fat any more. We had 30 miles on the first charge. Spring has been slow this year. We might get some snow this weekend.

I located the speed restrictor circuit on the controller. `It is a single white wire with connector. Unplug to derestrict speed. It has no effect on the top speed, but raises the pedal assist speed for each of the three levels. About 13 mph vs 11 mph in PAS 1. I like the bike better at 11 mph, so I plugged it back in.
restrictor.jpg

On the above photo, you also see the yellow XT60 connector I put between the controller and the battery. This will allow me to mount other batteries on my rack or inside pannier bags and connect them direct to the controller, if I want to use other batteries.

Mounted a $5 ding-a-ling Schwinn and a $7 wired bike computer. I think wired is more reliable than wireless. Also spliced in XT60 connectors into the charge cable. This will allowme to clip in a watt meter to see how amy amp hurs are needed to refill the battery. I can also put on connectors other than the funky mircophone connector and use this charger on other batteries. For its large size, it only puts out about 1.8 amps.

restrictor.jpg restrictor.jpg restrictor.jpg

My wife now finds this bike stronger for the hills on our regular route and has started calling it
"her bike".
 
Bought a suspension fork for this bike. Too bad I didn't check its dimensions, but all 20" fatbike suspension forks are similar. They're about 450 mm from the axle to the top of the crown bearing, which is 80-100 mm more than a non suspension fork.

This will raise the front of the bike around three inches. T. I overlaid a picture of a Radmini against an Ecotric. The Rad has suspension forks, and yes, the front of their bike is higher than mine, and the heights will be similar when I'm done. We'll see how change in rake/trail affects the ride.

Meanwhile, the new forks weigh 3.8 pounds on my scales. There were advertises as 1.8KG, which is 4.0 pounds. Betting the old ones weigh about 2 pounds.

P1120136.jpg P1120119.jpgcomparo2.jpg
 
Replaced the fork. Found out the old one was steel, so even with the suspension, maybe the weight gain is a wash. It does raise the front of the bike several inches. It rode quite stiff til I unscrewed the cover and let some air out. Pffft. A little bit really softened the fork. I have to remove the fenders now and paint them white.

box.jpg

Another discovery is that the controller has 63V capacitors, so it should run on 48V. The LED display will work on 48V, but it won't show the battery voltage properly. I don't have a 48V silverfish battery, but I do have a small 12V 6aH pack that I can put in series to see how fast it can go.





capacitor.jpg

Just for kicks, I put a toggle switch on the speed restrictor, discussed a few posts above. I can flip it w/o having to take off the controller cover and get a higher PAS level if wanted.
switch.jpg
Bike has about 75 miles on it. Spring riding has been spotty and when it's nice, I'll take other bikes. This one is about ready for a longer ride.

Edit:6/25/2018

Painted the fenders with rattle can appliance epoxy. Some more white is needed in the frame. Maybe the battery casing should be white.

switch.jpg
 
Last edited:
Love the post(s)...I just ordered mine - first e-bike - buying only 1 to try out before buying another for the wife. This one seemed the best bang for the buck although I really liked the RadMini - just wasn't sure to double my investment and find I don't like these things. All that being said. What about an additional battery? Have you looked at any other batteries like on eBay. I saw one that was more than the rated 12mAh that comes on the bike - not sure if it will fit - at this point I don't have the measurements of the stock battery as of yet - waiting on next week's delivery. Anyways - I have the typical range anxiety wanting to ensure I don't get stranded somewhere after getting exhausted/worn out.

Thanks for all of your other posts I have seen as well.

--MickeyA
 
I believe it's your typical Silverfish battery case. It is still fairly popular. As I noted, we were over 25 miles on the initial charge. It's not really good to routinely run a battery flat, but once or twice to to determine range is OK.

That's one reason I tapped a connector into the battery cable. Allows me to connect a spare that's not necessarily a SIlverfish and I can also check power consumpotion with a wattmeter. The bigger motor on this bike should draw more power than my other bikes

Hope you get a good one.
 
Thanks for the info. I highly suspect this bike will end up being the wife's if this works out for us. I did find some batteries that could work - perhaps using an additional connector into wiring harness as you referred to - on eBay and Amazon that I think would work. But I also suspect 25-ish miles will most likely be way more than we will travel. Our main use case is in Galveston and the island is NOT that big. Thanks for the info.
 
I have been following your posts because I have a similar e bike but colored white. I have also replaced the original fork with a suspension fork. You mentioned that the controller has 63V capacitors, does it mean I can replaced the LED display with a LCD display with 36V and/ 48V?
 
Yes. I really wanted the white. We're partway there.
P1130213.jpg


My controller has 63V caps, and I know that the 810LED will not blow up right away if overvolted to 48V, so I have run it on 48V. However, the 810LED's are voltage specific, so when I run on 48V, the battery display is wrong. Also, this display does not monitor the low voltage cutoff. That's hardwired in the controller and stuck at 36V, which is too low for a 48V battery. While a 48V battery should have its own cutoff circuit, it's a bad idea to rely on that. You want the ebike to shut off before the battery.

So 48V is just to see how the bike runs. It runs fine. All three PAS levels are still there, as is walk mode. The battery display is wrong. Again, there's the problem of knowing when to stop using the battery. Maybe a simple voltage readout would work.

Your question is wheter an LCD is available? I think not. This particular controller only accepts a 4 wire analog 810LED display and will not take a 5 wire LCD display. Too bad.

So the solution is to replace the controller with a controller/LCD combo. They start at $50.

The Ecoctric motor cable terminates in the typical three motor phases and 5 wire Hall sensor plugs. The other plugs (throttle, brakes, and PAS) are standard, although the wires may be in a different order. And one would have the proper display plugs already for the new LCD and new controller. Might have to add an external speed sensor as I didn't look to see if the motor had an internal one. For me, it's not a hard project. .

That's next on my project list - replace the controller/810LED with controller/LCD. I just haven't decided which controller to use. I would like it to fit in the existing compartment.

If the 3 level PAS on the 810LED worked better on the Ecoctric, I wouldn't pursue it. I had the 810LED on my first ebike and still like it. That's a 26" wheel, also a lighter bike, and I have good pedal control between 8-12 mph. The Ecoctric seems overboosted at 8 mph and too easy to pedal. It also tends to surge when this happens. I could get used to it if I didn't know it could be better, so I want to make it better.

By the way, I used a tire pump to boost my air shocks back up. Didn't know that's too crude.It shot up to 10 psi just like that. Went on Youtube and learned I had to buy a special air shock pump. I did. $25. The air shcks are really something for adjustability, compare to oil shocks. Hope I didn't wreck them already.
 
Thanks for the info. My suspension fork is a preloaded, locked/unlocked fork that can not be adjusted. I was not aware that there were different types of suspension forks when I bought mine. I'll admit that I would like to have a similar suspension fork as what you have if I have known in advance the types of suspension forks. For now, I'll just keep using the one installed in my e bike which gave a more comfortable ride than the original fork that i have replaced.
 
Got caught in a 2" rain a mile from home on Monday night. Made it home completely soaked, but I wiped down the Ecoctric and removed the battery before I went inside. However, the next day it didn't run. When I opened the controller compartment, water came out. Uh Oh. I could feel the controller shaking slightly because water was inside bubbling away, so I cut the power and opened it up. The bottom of the board had grey sludge all over it. I hit it with some rubbing alcohol and let it dry for a day, not having much hope.

P1130609.jpg


Well, I was lucky since I only powered it for about a few minutes. It worked the next day. I put it all back together. By the way, it's a little tricky to re-attach the heat sink plate if you take apart the controller. Water is going to get in there. Maybe we should apply a second layer of silicone seal around the controller end plates.
 
The crank arms on my Ecoctric are only 160mm. It reduces pedal leverage, and also feels funny to me.

I ordered a silver Lasco 52T crank with 170mm arms. It was $34 on amazon. Here's the new and old. The existing black crank is also a Lasco.
P1130616.jpg


It's the usual process. Remove the crank screw and use a crank puller ($10 tool) to pull each side.
P1130614.jpg


At this point, I decided to try greasing the bottom bracket. This is not needed because I found it's a cartridge design with sealed bearings. So don't take it apart. Nothing to do, and it may not go back together again. There was machining debris in the threads on the cartridge that bamboozled me for an hour. I couldb't screw it in until I hit it with Brake Cleaner Spray, Then it went back together easily.
P1130617.jpg
.

I also cured an annoying battery rattle. I put some foam under the battery by the contacts and added a foam strip between the seat post and the battery. Then I used an elastic strap with a velcro buckle to wrap around the battery. No more rattles
.
P1130235.jpg
 

Attachments

  • P1130613.jpg
    P1130613.jpg
    71.1 KB · Views: 868
Last edited:
Hi, do any of you know the diameter of the seatpost of the Ecotric 20”? I think I’m going to get an extender so I can sit higher for better medaling position. Thanks!
 
I think it is 27.2mm - If you pull out the seat, I believe it is stamped on there....checking one of mine....yes - that is the size as mentioned...you should have a problem finding a longer one. 27.2mm is pretty standard I believe.
 
I think it is 27.2mm - If you pull out the seat, I believe it is stamped on there....checking one of mine....yes - that is the size as mentioned...you should have a problem finding a longer one. 27.2mm is pretty standard I believe.
I bought this extra long 27.2mm diameter seatpost: link. It's 17.7inch (450mm) long. The seatpost that comes with the bike is only 10.5 inches long.
 
Just to let you know, YOUR REVIEW has led to me buying 2 of these bikes for my wife and I. We are "sometime" riders, who tend to not go too far with each ride. I am a 5'8" 205 lbs, and my wife is 5'8" and way less pounds. I'm thinking these bikes can give us some fun over a nice period of time. So far we LOVE THEM, but, not being bicycle enthusiast, WHAT would you say are the most important things for us to pay the most attention too? We hope to get a few years out of them, but want to make sure we stay on top of maintenance....
 
Back