Easy Motion / EVO display broken clip fix

Joergen8

Active Member
Coming up on 10,000 km on my 2,5 year old BH Evo 29er, I managed to finally break the little notch under my display that the mount clips onto. Luckily I heard it crack so I found the little pieces that fell off. I tried just gluing it first but I suppose the type of plastic and regular superglue was too weak a bond to hold it in.

So I drilled a couple small holes and grooves into the sides of the notch and bent a paperclip to support the broken piece from the rear. A good glob of glue and it seems to hold up nicely, better than new I'd say. Just make sure to drill additional grooves for the wire to sit in, so it's absolutely flush with the bottom of the display. I tried heating the wire with a lighter and pushing it in, but the plastic is either fiberglass reinforced or otherwise high-temp and wouldn't melt around the wire.

BTW does anyone know what the old display does when it gets to 9999,99 ->. I hope it just loops around to 0000,00, but it'll be a bummer if it just shows 9999,99 forever. The controller hopefully still records the actual number even if the display can't show them.

displayfix.jpg


displayfix2.jpg
 
Looks like a pretty pro fix! I think the plastic is a butyrate polymer, tough to glue with over the counter adhesives. I hate that (my) mount! As for the miles (k's), not sure. Your in the lead and will have to let us know. I thought I saw someone raise the question before, but can't remember where. I bet it clicks over. You could switch over to miles and get 3600 more to 10k:)
 
Speaking of the mount, the design could use some improvement too. It has a tendency to crack in half on the side where the wires enter the body, and the way it clamps onto the handlebars causes the body to bend and crack on the right side. The display with its springy contacts still works surprisingly well no matter how much the mount has cracked. The contacts and wires are filled in with a black polymer glue, so I suppose the cracking wouldn't cause issues with water ingress. At least it hasn't for me and I ride in pouring rain all the time, though I keep my bike in a heated garage.

There's no real solution or fix for this, since even if you had a perfectly uniform and straight handlebar tube (not tapered) to clamp onto, the clamping force would still split the body since the wire-side is so weak. My solution was to find longer M3 screws, add spacer nuts to remove most of the bending force, and just semi-permanently glue the mount into the position I had it in with water-proof wood glue. So, minimal clamping force and a bit of glue to keep it from rotating when you push the display into the mount or press the buttons.

I salvaged some M3 screws from old euro electrical outlets, but they were only partially threaded so I couldn't shorten them enough and had to twist some copper wire filler to prevent them from pushing out the top.

mount_crack.jpg

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Coming up on 10,000 km on my 2,5 year old BH Evo 29er, I managed to finally break the little notch under my display that the mount clips onto. Luckily I heard it crack so I found the little pieces that fell off. I tried just gluing it first but I suppose the type of plastic and regular superglue was too weak a bond to hold it in.

I think BH will send you a new mount, as you are still in the warranty period (is it 5 years?). They have been very supportive. Better than being several kilometers up a trail and suddenly have no connection.
 
I have had my Evo snow for a couple of weeks and already accidentally knocked off the display a couple of times. The clip does not hold well at all. Your fix looks much more secure. Thanks
 
@Mtnm : My bike is over two years old now and out of warranty, though the mount broke during the first year.

@jazz : The locking screw is just there to permanently mount the display and hold it in. The flimsy design of the clip is at fault, not the user. I always take my display off for the night, or when stopping at a store. So at least 200-300 mount-dismount cycles every year. This of course wears the little contact pins, but also keeps them clean and free of corrosion. The little notch under the display just can't handle any pushing forward, ie leaning on the display with your palm. I suppose there's a sort of "mechanical fuse" engineered into it, so the expensive display doesn't break in half when you crash, but it should be the clip on the mount that snaps off first, not on the display.
 
Here it is, 9999 -> 0000 km. Unfortunately it rounded up from 9999.8 straight to 0000.0 so I didn't get a 9999.9 shot. I'm just glad the system didn't crash with an error or something. :D
 

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Here it is, 9999 -> 0000 km. Unfortunately it rounded up from 9999.8 straight to 0000.0 so I didn't get a 9999.9 shot. I'm just glad the system didn't crash with an error or something. :D

6000 miles in little over an year is a great mileage.
 
Well, two years and eight months to be more precise. But thanks, Mr. "did the same in a month" ;)

Though if you count the long snowy winters here, the bike has gotten way more abuse than two and a half years' worth. I'm very happy with the real world savings and quality of life the bike has given me, but I'm expecting no less than another 10k km/6k mi from it, to get that dollars per km/mile way down. It'll be interesting to see how the battery holds up. It's been pretty steady for the last 5000km, hard to tell any difference in capacity after a guestimated 10% loss in the first 3000-4000km when it was brand new.
 
That surprises me given digital equipment and many people using these as commuters and other high mile usage. weird.
 
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