E-Glide ST review
- Thread starter Mike N.
- Start date
Mike N.
Active Member
Roland I have had it down to one bar flashing! I'll keep an eye on it next time but I think the number was 43 BMR. It seems like it takes a long time to go from 5 bars to 4. After that it goes down faster. I've come to the conclusion that when I get the #6 error message, I'm trying to draw more amperage then the battery can muster at that moment. So to continue to use the battery at that point I need to reduce the power assist setting. I wonder if I should invest in a additional battery for long trips. This Lake Mead loop is the closest I come to running the battery down. I did a good job conserving the battery for the third attempt over the highest point and had plenty of level 4 assist on the straight away back to the car. Here is a link to the trail. https://rivermountainstrail.org/
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Roland
Member
The River Mountain Trail loop looks challenging, we've nothing like it where I live. Hills yes, but they are short in comparison. Carrying an extra ten pound battery wouldn't be my choice. I guess you'll just have to be a in bike mode more often on the flats and use your power when climbing. Alternatively, take your charger along, find a power source along the way and take an extra hour for lunch!! Thanks for info on the BMS number, strange the range isn't from fifteen to zero but I had guessed somewhere in the low 40's would mean an empty battery. These blogs have been very helpful in better understanding our bikes, keep your experiences coming. For those reading and still deciding on which bike to purchase, you won't regret an E-Glide ST purchase.
Roland
Member
There are two parts sold separately. The bag won't slide on unless you have the beam. The support beam is the Topeak TA2096E beam rack MTX E-Type for standard frames.
The actual bag which slides onto the beam is the Topeak TT9646B Trunk bag. The best price for the two pieces we found at www.TheBikesmiths.com.
To install on an E-Glide bike, we first took the spring off the standard e-glide bike rack, then took the aluminum piece off the beam and discarded the beam. (Replace the three metric screws with the same size non metric nut and bolt). We discarded the beam because of the seat posts large diameter. You could remove the beams rubber padding and go metal on metal and use the beam but that looks ugly sitting on top of good looking rack.
We then zip tied (6 ties) the aluminum piece (which the bag slides into) onto the eglides black rack. The bag just slides on. We bought five, one for each of our five eglide riders.
It's a great bag. Never comes loose and conveniently slides off when walking into a coffee house etc. hope this helps.
Roland
The actual bag which slides onto the beam is the Topeak TT9646B Trunk bag. The best price for the two pieces we found at www.TheBikesmiths.com.
To install on an E-Glide bike, we first took the spring off the standard e-glide bike rack, then took the aluminum piece off the beam and discarded the beam. (Replace the three metric screws with the same size non metric nut and bolt). We discarded the beam because of the seat posts large diameter. You could remove the beams rubber padding and go metal on metal and use the beam but that looks ugly sitting on top of good looking rack.
We then zip tied (6 ties) the aluminum piece (which the bag slides into) onto the eglides black rack. The bag just slides on. We bought five, one for each of our five eglide riders.
It's a great bag. Never comes loose and conveniently slides off when walking into a coffee house etc. hope this helps.
Roland
Barry S
Well-Known Member
Curious to know if any of your group ordered the ST with the Handlebar Riser and if so was it a more comfortable riding position for them. Thanks.
Mike N.
Active Member
Thanks Roland, I had the same idea for the Topeak bag since I used them on my last non E-bike and still have two Topeak bags. Now I have a winter project. Two things. I purchased my first set of Tektro HDC 300 brake pads since mine are pretty worn down from slowing down going downhill. Two pairs for 22.80 on Amazon Prime. Ordered on Saturday and received Sunday! The other day by Lake Mead I was going downhill at 39 mph! The Lake Mead area has taken me to the extreme limits of what my E-Glide can do. I have run out of juice twice before getting back to my car. Your pretty much dead in the water going uphill without the electric assist. I sent a note to Dave at E-Glide about purchasing an additional battery and also his thoughts of making one with additional amperage. I found this site: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) and under specifications it looks like we have the 48V 11.6Ah version. Its possible to get a 48V 13.6 AH in the same model battery holder. That would give it about a 20% increase in range. I'll let you know what comes of that. Since this is my first E-bike I'm still learning. Some batteries go up to 17Ah but I dont know if it will fit our bike frame. The battery we have now has been plenty of power for 95% of my rides.
Roland
Member
To PCDoctor USA. Yes we all (five of us) have the handlebar adjustable riser. We all prefer this to the standard riser as we are able to adjust to our personal riding styles. I like sitting up more as it's less pressure on my back. Thi sriser does the job well.
Mike. Thanks for the information on batteries. I'll be interested in your results, however, where we live, the standard battery is more than sufficient for our 35 to 40 mile range and hills. Our new E-glide club of five members are doing a 35 mile round trip next Thursday incorporating all terrains, so it will be interesting to see how we all compare at the end of the ride.
Mike. Thanks for the information on batteries. I'll be interested in your results, however, where we live, the standard battery is more than sufficient for our 35 to 40 mile range and hills. Our new E-glide club of five members are doing a 35 mile round trip next Thursday incorporating all terrains, so it will be interesting to see how we all compare at the end of the ride.
Roland
Member
Trip completed with five ST E-GlIders and one RAD biker with a 37 miles round trip. E-Gliders all returned with power to spare. I estimated we could have ridden another ten miles with pedal assist. We did have a rear flat with a three inch rusty nail causing the damage. We always wondered what it would be like to remove the rear wheel. We did it successfully but our advice is to carry the right tools:
1) Make sure your repair patches are not old (as ours were and of no use).
2) Carry a spare 27.5" tube.
3) Carry something to cut the zip tie holding the motor wire to the frame.
4) Carry the correct tool to remove the very tight rear wheel nuts.
Finally, the motor wire quick release is tight but it is a straight pull, no twist needed. On reinstall, connect arrow to arrow.
1) Make sure your repair patches are not old (as ours were and of no use).
2) Carry a spare 27.5" tube.
3) Carry something to cut the zip tie holding the motor wire to the frame.
4) Carry the correct tool to remove the very tight rear wheel nuts.
Finally, the motor wire quick release is tight but it is a straight pull, no twist needed. On reinstall, connect arrow to arrow.
Sanford Shultz
New Member
Hey you guys still in love with your E-glides? I ask because Im thinking of purchasing an ST. Any insights would be greatly appreciated, as Im also considering the Cross Current S, but feel there are too many negative comments about the bike.
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
I'm positive that except that dirty rooster, no one is complaining. Most people simply don't have that kind of vegence for petty things.
I think both bikes are good. It depends on if you really want the torque sensor or not.
Sanford Shultz
New Member
So Ravi, Do you own a CCS or a ST? its not only the torque sensor, the Juiced is 650 Watts and has motor cut-offs,too.
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
I have ridden the Juiced CCS for about 100 miles. No experience on the ST but I see it is similar to some of the Magnum bikes I have ridden.
