Dual Wheel Ebike Build

[Davy2011]

So I have these two 500w motors my local bike shop gave me which is nice. To top it off, one of them has a controller, regen brakes, pedal assist, and a throttle. It just needs a battery. The other motor doesn't have anything for it but I had a idea. I wanted to make it a dual wheel since they're both 500w. The only downside is a battery. The only older battery I have is my old 48v 10.4ah, which might overkill it pretty much. I remember my last controller I had getting too much juice and eventually burning it up. I did see a video on this and it showed I could have a cycle analyst that can easily sort out how much power it pulls and such, but that's too expensive for me and I don't have to funds to afford it as well. My only option is getting two controllers, one battery, and just go from that. I can hook up the pos and neg wires, and the signal wire to one of the controllers, and the other controller will have just the signal wire, minus the pos and neg wires connecting to it. But what do you think I should do? Should I just invest in a 36v battery, or just try using this one? It is full at 53.8-54v at times, and dies at 36v. And this controller does have a rated amperage of 22a, so would the battery I have be okay to use it?

Edit: I did forget to say both wheels are rear wheels, but I took the one on the right downtown with a front disc on it and took it's gears off and made it a front wheel. It will look weird, believe me on that, but I don't know any place that'll sell a winding that could fit the existing magnets in the hub.

 

[indianajo]

I/ve been using a 500 w 36v bafang geared hub motor with a 48 v 17 AH battery. All I could buy 2022 with Shanghai shut down. I originally installed three .5 ohm 70w resistors, one series each winding, to drop 10 v off at 10 amps. That pulled so feebly I deleted the resistors. Carrying 60 lb groceries & 160 lb me, on about the 5th trip on a route with 70 hills, I shorted the winding at about hill 50. Was July. Motor was only $37 & I bought four, so no big deal.
Those motors you have are Direct Drive. DD motors cool better than geared hub motors when lugging. I wouldn't worry about the 48 v battery. Hooking up two motors in parallel may exceed the current your controller can provide.
Most LIIon bike batteries can provide 50 A. The AH rating is amps times hours, an energy rating instead of a current rating. 10.6 AH rating is probably tested at 1/2 amp for 21.2 hours.

 

[Davy2011]

I/ve been using a 500 w 36v bafang geared hub motor with a 48 v 17 AH battery. All I could buy 2022 with Shanghai shut down. I originally installed three .5 ohm 70w resistors, one series each winding, to drop 10 v off at 10 amps. That pulled so feebly I deleted the resistors. Carrying 60 lb groceries & 160 lb me, on about the 5th trip on a route with 70 hills, I shorted the winding at about hill 50. Was July. Motor was only $37 & I bought four, so no big deal.
Those motors you have are Direct Drive. DD motors cool better than geared hub motors when lugging. I wouldn't worry about the 48 v battery. Hooking up two motors in parallel may exceed the current your controller can provide.
Most LIIon bike batteries can provide 50 A. The AH rating is amps times hours, an energy rating instead of a current rating. 10.6 AH rating is probably tested at 1/2 amp for 21.2 hours.

Ah okay. So, what should I do for the meantime? Should I invest in a different battery, or just use this one? This battery ia 54-36v, so by the time it gets to 38v, both controllers will start functioning under a safe limit, but that'll be near dead for the battery. I don't even know what to do with that old battery as well. Likely get it recycled to a place that recycles ebike batteries, or selling it which I doubt can get sold. And I don't have a cycle analyst to use for this as well since those are expensive.

 

[indianajo]

The point of my post was, I've got a 36 v motor and I've put 1000 miles on it with a 48 v battery. I run 52 to 40 volts mostly. I burned the previous 36 v motor at about 1000 miles without dropping resistors on the 20th steep hill in hot July, I had 60 lb groceries, gross weight 330 lb. I don't ride the route with 20 steep hills anymore. I still ride 66 moderate hills in 3.7 hours with the 36 v motor & the 48 v battery..
You have DD motors which cool better than the geared hub motors I have. Use the 48 v battery at your own risk. DD hub motors are cheap, reliable batteries are expensive.

 

[Davy2011]

The point of my post was, I've got a 36 v motor and I've put 1000 miles on it with a 48 v battery. I run 52 to 40 volts mostly. I burned the previous 36 v motor at about 1000 miles without dropping resistors on the 20th steep hill in hot July, I had 60 lb groceries, gross weight 330 lb. I don't ride the route with 20 steep hills anymore. I still ride 66 moderate hills in 3.7 hours with the 36 v motor & the 48 v battery..
You have DD motors which cool better than the geared hub motors I have. Use the 48 v battery at your own risk. DD hub motors are cheap, reliable batteries are expensive.

Ahhh, okey. I mean, i'll give it a try..but its gonna be annoyingly fun if something gives up, mostly the controller. Although my issue is the throttle it has. It's one of those special throttles with a button on it to power it up, and 3 lights displaying the full, half empty, and empty lights. If only it was a KTLCD display, I could easily config it to pull less than what would be needed than have it pull at max power.