Drive Chains

[rocky289]

I'd be very interested to hear from you about your experience with the KMC X10e, (ebike spec'd) chain, how long it lasts etc

Just spoke with my friend here with the earlier Haibike SDURO FullNine RC
He replaced the original KMC chain around 3500k. Also the cassette.
I was mistaken in post #16, he's still using the original single front drive.
Bike has now done about 6500k.

 

[rocky289]

Was just looking on the KMC website & saw this line under cleaning

"Try to avoid a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This will instantly ruin your chain"

So what's the logic behind that?

 

[J.R.]

Was just looking on the KMC website & saw this line under cleaning

"Try to avoid a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This will instantly ruin your chain"

So what's the logic behind that?

I can't imagine why they would say that. They're information sometimes differs from other industry experts. Sometimes they even contradict themselves, like reusing missing links. I think as long as you're cleaning and lubing on a regular basis, in whatever way you find effective, you're good to go.

Thanks for the info from your friend, very good mileage out of that chain!

 

[rocky289]

Been talking with some of the local guys that do the mtb rentals.
They use only Squirt dry lube on the chains & find it gets the best mileage in our dry conditions.
So have done a wash & wax on both chains to get them started.
They now stay clean as, & get a dose of Squirt after every second ride.

 

[rocky289]

Anyone else here use this method of lubrication?
How often do you apply another dose?
Tracks I use are dry with light dust now Winter just round the corner.
I've been adding more every 100k.

 

[MLB]

That's an interesting and concise clip.

Shame that he didn't go on to mention checking the jockey wheels as well.

Roughly speaking on the Bosch powered bike my wear rate is as follows.

Chains last anything from 200 miles - 550 miles depending upon conditions.
Front sprocket is very border line at 500 miles. I've got through enough of them now, to know that Connex make the best.
Jockey wheels get replaced every second chain, and that is really pushing things, as they are well and truly worn out by then.
Rear cassettes are actually very durable and I guess that I get roughly 2,000 miles out of a cassette.

It's an expensive hobby!

Wow, I'm just turning 400 miles, sounds like I better get ordering some parts! But then I'm mostly onroad and I'm usually in Eco (most) or Tour (When I get tired) so guessing I'm on the Easy end of the abuse scale.

 

[EddieJ]

Sadly the conditions local to me are just like a talcum powder fine grinding paste.

Even on the new bike, I had to re oil the chain after just 20 miles of use. And that is from new.

A few of us were chatting about just this very subject last week when out for a ride. Without exception, we all agreed that you struggle to get one ride completed before needing to re lube the chain. The type of lube, also made zero difference.

 

[tomjasz]

Hey Lenny! You're close, well by mail anyway. I'm just across the border in MN near LaCrosse. What are you using for chain replacements on flat foot frames. 7 speed KHS Smoothies, Electra Townies, and that sort, with mid motors? I'm not happy with buying two chains and making one. Done it but the chains are stretching quickly.

 

[rocky289]

@rocky289

I'd be very interested to hear from you about your experience with the KMC X10e, (ebike spec'd) chain, how long it lasts etc... I've seen that chain a few times and considered getting it, but at $68 USD I can get three X10.93 for the same cost. The e chain has a special anti rust coating, but since I ride and maintain my bike often, rust never has a chance to form. I do wonder if it lasts longer and shifts better for a longer period of time though.

I use Finish Line lube as well. I get a three pack of 4 ounce bottles of the Dry from Amazon for $20 USD. The Dry performs well for me in most riding conditions. For severe wet conditions, I'll use the Finish Line Wet.

For reference (US Amazon):

KMC X10e http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IWS0GMO...UTF8&colid=DH3COU1RH430&coliid=I1AE20SIS0HZUL

KMC X10.93 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYOP9M...UTF8&colid=DH3COU1RH430&coliid=I3GNKM0TVSRYUK

Finish Line Wet 3 pack http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-T...56551555&sr=8-2&keywords=finish+line+dry+lube

Now done 3000k on one chain.
Mostly off-road.
Gave it a on bike clean with the chain washer.
Tried the chain gauge, both ways.
Didn't even look like dropping in.
Tried a 12 inch rule over the links.
No sign of wear at all.

 

[goose2die4]

So what is a good 124 link for my Radrover ?

I bought 2 KMC chains to make one ,But I
don't want to do that next time !

 

[tomjasz]

124 and 132 link chains are a bit difficult to find. Wipperman Connex has several 124L. Sierra Trading had some 9se on closeout. They're spendy and their "eBike chains" can be a problem with narrow wide chainwheels. Sunlite SCN-MSi is available and their a very inexpensive chain. I keep a couple around. My first chain the OEM was 132L Z series KMS. I've never been able to find a replacement with 124 or 132. A royal PIA.

I'd like any info someone else may have too.

 

[goose2die4]

124 and 132 link chains are a bit difficult to find. Wipperman Connex has several 124L. Sierra Trading had some 9se on closeout. They're spendy and their "eBike chains" can be a problem with narrow wide chainwheels. Sunlite SCN-MSi is available and their a very inexpensive chain. I keep a couple around. My first chain the OEM was 132L Z series KMS. I've never been able to find a replacement with 124 or 132. A royal PIA.

I'd like any info someone else may have too.

I saw those Sunlite chains in 124 links . . . Are they any good ?

 

[tomjasz]

They're bottom of the line chains. I wouldn't expect great performance, but until find something better...
I've already tried pricier chains and had a problem with fit.

 

[rocky289]

Just an update.
Bike has now done 5000k
Put it in for a service, mainly for front shocks.
Asked them to report on wear & tear.
Needs tyres, I new that.
No noticable wear on chain or cassette, just slight wear on outer chainring, but not enough to worry about.
So that proves Squirt is better than engine oil as my friend had to replace his chain at 3500k.
Good recommendation also for the KMC X10e EPT Chain.

 

[Marcela]

Hello everybody! New here. Don't have an ebike, yet. But getting real close. Here is something that is going to help you chain riders.

I was a big bike rider 40-50 yrs ago, just took up the sport again within the last 5-6. Way back then we used motor oil, worked good. What they sell for chain lube in the stores now is crap. I used quite a selection and found nothing that I was satisfied with. People going through chains and rings is absurd. And I was part of that.

So in my search I found something made by Dow, called Molykote C-40 High Temperature Chain Lubricant. Comes in a quart oil container that is similar to what is used for motor oil. It is a synthetic carrier with moly lubricant. It is kind of expensive but comparative to buying the smaller lbs chain lube in the smaller containers. Find a friend and split the cost cause the stuff lasts a long time. I have a trike and Sequoia, neither have had the chain changed after coming up on 4 yrs, and the tire on the Sequoia is bald down the center and almost on the fronts of the trike. The gauge will not go in between the links yet at .50 wear, and far as I can tell doesn't show any wear. I really don't expect to have to change the chain or sprocket for a while or anytime soon, or maybe never.

You want to start with a clean chain. Since the moly is the lubricant you don't want anything like wax, etc. between it and the steel. Use a smaller container to apply like dropper bottle with a small hole and put a drop on each side of the roller. Never use the chain dry or close to dry as only once will ruin it as in raising a burr on the pins and rollers, think of engine lubrication here.

Now the moly is black, and will look wet after the carrier evaporates, but it is dry, and some won't be able to stand the look of something dirty, but the moly doesn't attract dirt and prior to each application i use a paper towel and clean the rollers and side plates and sometimes the cogs and rings. That's all there is to it. I usually get nervous about the length of time I go and make another application but use your judgement. After the first application don't wait too long as you might have missed some or not applied enough, so take a couple rides then reapply just for shits and grins. You apply the lubricant and it works its way out, that is just the way it is, but the moly will almost never leave you dry. The stuff is cheap and works great compared to buying chains and cogs/rings.

I am not going to defend this stuff, these are my experiences with it. Good luck.

PS, the stuff is slick, you won't believe the amount of power a poorly lubed chain consumes in comparison.

 

[tomjasz]

YIKES!! The MSDS is an eye-opener.