Don't make sharp turns or U-turns?

[astrogeezer]

Have had a German ebike (made in China, surprise, surprise) called NCM Moscow. Great bike until you need to turn sharply or U-turn. The default setting is numbered 1 on the display (not zero for some reason). This setting gives the rider a boost at traffic lights, cross roads etc after braking to a halt. The trouble is, the same boost kicks in while negotiating a tight turn which, naturally, tends to throw you off balance and off the bike. It's happened twice now, and resulted in slight damage to the bike and a swollen knee. I emailed the suppliers, Leon-Cycles in Hannover and asked why the default is 1 and not zero, expecting them to tell me to manually go through the 0-6 display to reach zero before negotiating a sharp turn. Instead, they said to pull the right brake all the time while turning, which is supposed to cut off the sensor. Is that daft or have other ebikes the same problem?

 

[rich c]

Many Chinese controllers have the option to make changes to those settings through the display. 0-5, 1-5, 0-9, and 1-9. Do you have motor shut offs on the brake levers? Just feather the brake when you need to make those maneuvers.

 

[astrogeezer]

Many Chinese controllers have the option to make changes to those settings through the display. 0-5, 1-5, 0-9, and 1-9. Do you have motor shut offs on the brake levers? Just feather the brake when you need to make those maneuvers.

The right brake, which operates the front wheel, does indeed cut off the sensor, so the cyclist must remember to pull that brake while negotiating a tight turn to prevent the boost kicking in. Unfortunately the suppliers zealously guard any options to reprogramme settings 0-6.
I assume they want to prevent access to the controller display code.

 

[rich c]

What controller and display does it have. Someone surely has hacked it.

 

[astrogeezer]

Das-Kit x15 motor. The display is marked L7B, and I've searched high and low on internet, you tube, etc for that precise designation without any success. It may be an entirely new type of a previous controller designated C6. According to a you tube hack, altering the 8888 code to 8306 allows access to the various specs, mph, wheel size, and so on. As the bike is new, I'm reluctant to take a chance at decoding in case I knacker something.

 

[Fitzy]

Had to look up the bike...and this promotional-photo made me laugh.

PS: NEVER ride a chain-driven conveyance whilst wearing a gigantic women's scarf. Aslo: men shouldn't use hair-dye.

 

[mrgold35]

My Radrover had this set-up where it would provide up to full power in PAS 1-5 until you reached the cut-off speed (each PAS level had a lower cutoff speed). This made the power delivery very jerky at starts and if you are right at the lower cutoff mph. Even in PAS 2 or 3, full 750watts/80nm of TQ would kick-in. I almost ended up driving off a 6 foot drop into a full irrigation ditch making a slow u-turn and I wiped out on a muddy trail on a tight turn, jacked up my shoulder, and snapped 3 bolts on my handle bar stem when I flipped over the bike because of this setting.

Rad has since updated the controller and changed the power output to provide a limited amount of watts per PAS level (PAS1/75w, PAS2/175w, PAS3/375w, PAS4/550w, and PAS5/750w with the same 20 mph cutoff speed). Much smoother and easier to ride and zero wipe outs since.

 

[astrogeezer]

My Radrover had this set-up where it would provide up to full power in PAS 1-5 until you reached the cut-off speed (each PAS level had a lower cutoff speed). This made the power delivery very jerky at starts and if you are right at the lower cutoff mph. Even in PAS 2 or 3, full 750watts/80nm of TQ would kick-in. I almost ended up driving off a 6 foot drop into a full irrigation ditch making a slow u-turn and I wiped out on a muddy trail on a tight turn, jacked up my shoulder, and snapped 3 bolts on my handle bar stem when I flipped over the bike because of this setting.

Rad has since updated the controller and changed the power output to provide a limited amount of watts per PAS level (PAS1/75w, PAS2/175w, PAS3/375w, PAS4/550w, and PAS5/750w with the same 20 mph cutoff speed). Much smoother and easier to ride and zero wipe outs since.

I've had a few email discussions with the Hannover, Germany, suppliers about their Das-Kit L7. Despite their insistence that the right brake cuts out the motor, it doesn't. The right brake controls the front disc brake and the left lever controls the rear disc and rear hub motor. Even the electrical cables are all connected to the left lever. I don't think they've figured out that we drive/ride on the left here in England, so that the actual manufacturers in China realise that fact and consequently put the bikes together for the UK, and the Hannover suppliers merely re-send the unopened bike box over to England. Having now sussed to gently hold the left lever while turning, the motor cuts out and allows a safe turn. But I wonder how many accidents are going to happen to other unfortunate cyclists in the UK. Do you think the Germans still bare a grudge. BTW, I think we have the same surname 'Gold'. Uncommon methinks?