CrossCurrent S hydraulic Brake Bleed Kit
- Thread starter Lenny7118
- Start date
The hydraulic brakes have been out for a long time and you don’t know what kits are compatible with the brakes you are using on the bikes you sell. I need to bleed my brakes and not have to wait for Juiced to test kits that should have been done long long time ago. And no I’m not going to a local bike shop for something I could do myself.
Anyone else with real help that has a link to kits that work on the CrossCurrent S hydraulic brakes.
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
Lenny, please relax a bit!
Looks like you are unaware of the history of Juiced products. Juiced was one of the earliest manufacturers to use Tektro Dorado hydraulic brakes on their cargo bikes in 2014 and Cross Current bikes in 2015. Since then they have made some modifications.
At one point, Juiced was one of the largest vendors to use Tektro HD-E710 powerful brakes with motor cut off and since then many other manufactures have caught on. Even now, many other manufacturers use cheap hydraulic ones.
If you are looking for powerful brakes, check out these thread by @Reid .
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...ke-improves-brake-power-and-modulation.16295/
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...ont-brake-rotor-on-the-ccs.16135/#post-127147
These are the same brakes you find on high-end Stromer, Trek, Haibikes. Made for hardcore mountain biking, they can stop you from 30mpg to zero in a flash.
There are other great brakes like Shimano XT M8000 that you can install on your CCS.
Check this out: http://www.tektro-usa.com/category.php?catid=188&productid=1108
Unless JB is using custom connection I don't know what the issue is in Chula Vista; but maybe they use their own setup and don't want to recommend a brand. Amazon carries a whole bunch of universal type kits
Rob02150
Active Member
This is pretty much all you need. Only thing you'll need in addition would be a place for the old fluid to leak into. I just use a small water bottle that has a hole in the cap in which I can fit the hose.
Rob02150
Active Member
Ravi I have both the CC and the CCS. I still wonder if I should take the brakes off the CC and put them on the CCS. Is there really a huge difference between the tektro e350's (CCS) and the 710s found on the old CC? I can't really tell myself (other than the little visible reservoir window) they both feel pretty solid.
I’m looking for a kit that contains the Bleed Block to insert after taking out the brake pads and more than just a one time one brake bleed kit.
I’m asking a simple question and juiced Bikes can’t even answer it. If these brakes have been around for years it would make sense that juice bikes would know of kits that work with these brakes. Oh and they are cheap brakes not high end brakes, there’s not even a part number on the brakes.
Rob02150
Active Member
Juiced gave you an answer, and you didn't like it. Now we're here to help you. Please listen to people who are trying to help you. You can buy the kit right from tektros website as you can see, you could also buy block through them. Sold separately, but they sell it as well. I got all of this stuff through them just by emailing them and asking. Juiced does not make the brakes. When you have issues and questions about components it's always helpful to go and ask the manufacturer of said components.
http://www.tektro-usa.com/category.php?catid=188&productid=1278
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First of all you don’t know me and stop immediately calling me stuck up and angry.
Juiced bikes can’t tell me what other Full kits to buy and not just tell to buy one part than buy another part , I’m looking for a complete bleeding kit. What model brakes are these Tektro brakes that juiced put on the CCS? Simple question?
Will this kit work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07845XW4X/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1IEX5CDG9I4ON&psc=1
OR THIS KIT?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078...+bleed+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=61nJBSIjE6L&ref=plSrch
Reid
Well-Known Member
Lenny, those two identical kits appear to be very fine. They offer really good syringes. Sometimes you can suck air from the upper handle reservoir simply with a plastic syringe with an off-center plastic snout that jam-fits into the handle reservoir bleed port. And that may be enough.
As for the brake blocks, better than any plastic fits-all block is wooden tapered shim stock available from your local home improvement store. Cut two shims to suitable width and length and insert them as an opposing pair to wedge the pistons or pads apart.
Bleeding is pretty simple. I found lots of decent YouTube videos and so have you.
I put a Magura MT-5 on the front of my CCS and an old style, $30 160mm disc Tektro Auriga on the rear. It does not have reach adjustment but I don't need it. The Magura MT-5, as Ravi will also tell you, is so much worth the money and installation.
Personally I see no need for motor kill switches in ebike brakes, any more than a car needs an automatic accelerator disconnection when the brake pedal is tapped. Hence, I ditched the stock brake handles and did not look for e-specific brakes.
Lately I further weakened my rear brake (so I will never lock the rear wheel upon panic braking) by introducing a controlled amount of air into the handle reservior, into the master cylinder. My rear brake now slows the bike a noticable amount but will never lock my rear wheel. And for my flat terrain, 99.9% riding on dry asphalt here in Miami, I do not need a powerful rear brake at all. All the stopping fast, especially from high speeds, is normally done with the front brake, for that is where weight transfer puts practically all of the traction. And so, I do not have to think about modulating the rear brake now (to avoid skidding the rear wheel) because the brake, as a weak sister today, does not cause mischief if I fail to think fast enough and impulsively squeeze the right hand lever hard. No skid can result. Lacking ABS, this seems to suit my needs and lack of braking skills the best way. I detail this technique in case someone else reading may be able to use or improve on it.
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If I decided to change my hydraulic brakes on my CCS what about the Brake Cut Off Switch/Cable on the brake lever ? Is it on New set of brake levers ? Or are there just certain hydraulic brakes I need to get especially for E Bikes ?
Thanks
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Reid
Well-Known Member
My opinion: e-bikes are all fitted with automatic cut-out switches on the brake levers. I do not know why. If you want to stop a car, you take your foot off the gas pedal first. No automobile brake pedal "cuts out" the gas pedal. No bicycle rider who desires to stop, continues pedaling.
WHY do ebikes have brake inhibitors, then? What purpose do they really serve? That the twist or thumb throttle will be disabled. But, any ebike's brake lever really and truly STOPS the motor's torque.
Your brake is many times stronger than the bike's motor. So even if you determined to keep pedaling though you wish to stop, or even if you keep the throttle full on, though you wish to stop, the bike will stop if you apply either brake.
I do not understand why ebikes should need brake inhibitor levers.
In my opinion, they do not. I don't have them anymore and am so happy not to have them at all.
No change is required to ditch the inhibitor switches. They cause no mischief if left on the bike and if you have them, there is no reason to disconnect them. However, as bumps on a log they will not be missed if shaved off. My opinion. Use non-ebike brake levers if you like. I sure do and my bike is cleaner and simpler in result.
Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
@Reid The only use I can see for the motor cut-off is when I'm using cruise control. If I hit the brakes when cruise is engaged, I usually do want the motor to shut off. Other than that one occasional, circumstance, I'm with you. I don't keep pedaling if I want to stop for crying out loud, and I use the throttle so seldom, that's not an issue either.
Reid
Well-Known Member
Gosh, you are so correct to point out Cruise Control, a feature I do not ever use and so did not even recall it was there. It is not possible to cut out cruise control easily without switches in the brake levers. Thank goodness, I never use cruise control on an ebike. Such non-participation might lull me to fall asleep behind the bar, lol.
Thank you for the correction, Bruce!
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
Actually I have found the motor inhibitors very useful for 2 circumstances that I encounter daily.
First, at my work there is a narrow covered walkway with a very tight corner that I negotiate; I hold the brake lever enough to inhibit the motor while pedaling around the tight corner at very low speed; the first day I nearly hit the wall when the motor engaged. I also remember a post a while back that someone mentioned a similar circumstance of making a tight u-turn and ending up on his side because the motor kicked on in the middle of the turn. The inhibitors are the only way to ensure the motor stays off while pedaling when you absolutely don't want assistance, short of shutting it off completely.
Second, when I am riding and a light turns red, I use the brakes to inhibit the motor while coasting to a stop and pedaling enough to drop gears. Again, I don't want the motor engaging at this point while slowing down both for safety and for simple energy conservation.
First, at my work there is a narrow covered walkway with a very tight corner that I negotiate; I hold the brake lever enough to inhibit the motor while pedaling around the tight corner at very low speed; the first day I nearly hit the wall when the motor engaged. I also remember a post a while back that someone mentioned a similar circumstance of making a tight u-turn and ending up on his side because the motor kicked on in the middle of the turn. The inhibitors are the only way to ensure the motor stays off while pedaling when you absolutely don't want assistance, short of shutting it off completely.
Second, when I am riding and a light turns red, I use the brakes to inhibit the motor while coasting to a stop and pedaling enough to drop gears. Again, I don't want the motor engaging at this point while slowing down both for safety and for simple energy conservation.
Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Chris. That's a good tip on using the brake to inhibit the motor in slow-speed close-quarters riding. I know from the way I use it with cruise control that a very light squeeze will cut out the motor, without much brake effect if any. So that's one I haven't used but now that you've brought it up, it will be in my "tool box."
I'm continually learning new ways that this bike can be used, things I wouldn't have suspected until I was in the situation and "discovered" them. For instance, I used the "walk" function for the first time this week. There's a road I like to ride on that doesn't have a direct connection to the highway (US 17) I have to take when I leave my neighborhood. I can get to this road by cutting through an elementary school playground, which is OK when school isn't in session but I don't want to cut through there when kids might be on the playground. Or there is a section of road that used to be open for traffic but for some reason has been fenced off where it hits US 17. You can go around the fence by going off into the tall grass and a drainage ditch about a yard deep. Previously I've just pushed through the grass, and down and back up the sides of the ditch. It occurred to me on Wednesday that this was a perfect use for the Walk mode and for sure it made it nearly effortless.
I'm continually learning new ways that this bike can be used, things I wouldn't have suspected until I was in the situation and "discovered" them. For instance, I used the "walk" function for the first time this week. There's a road I like to ride on that doesn't have a direct connection to the highway (US 17) I have to take when I leave my neighborhood. I can get to this road by cutting through an elementary school playground, which is OK when school isn't in session but I don't want to cut through there when kids might be on the playground. Or there is a section of road that used to be open for traffic but for some reason has been fenced off where it hits US 17. You can go around the fence by going off into the tall grass and a drainage ditch about a yard deep. Previously I've just pushed through the grass, and down and back up the sides of the ditch. It occurred to me on Wednesday that this was a perfect use for the Walk mode and for sure it made it nearly effortless.
Reid
Well-Known Member
I'll just say this: it is a boon to have such great forum participants as we have here at EBR all helping each other see things in a balanced way!
I am an extremist, no bout a doubt it,
and enjoy getting counterbalanced by Bruce, Chris, Asher, and about two hundred other people here.
But still, I will not have brake inhibitors. Period! About this I am unanimous!
I am an extremist, no bout a doubt it,
and enjoy getting counterbalanced by Bruce, Chris, Asher, and about two hundred other people here.But still, I will not have brake inhibitors. Period! About this I am unanimous!
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Interesting debate. My first thought is cutoff would be a good feature, one reason being the trustworthiness of Chinese parts and the possibility of a stuck throttle. But I can now see it would be a hindrance on a eMTB, or any condition where you would want to feather the brakes while still applying power to the wheel.
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