Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO vs SL Comp Carbon?

[FlatSix911]

I am trying to decide between these bikes and hoping someone here can give me some input. I've ridden the Comp Carbon and it's a sweet ride indeed. At least 85% of my riding will be on pavement, and I mostly want an e-bike for longer rides, climbing and faster group rides, but I like the idea of having the flexibility to go confidently and comfortably off road as well. I know I can put wider tires on the Carbon Comp, but there are a few features of the EVO that sound like they would make it more gravel friendly, although I question whether I would pay a price for them on pavement performance. For instance, would the EVO feel the same standing up on a climb? I do know the EVO is a little heavier so I assume I would have to work a little harder or use more assist on the climbs (we have a lot of big climbs where I live in Utah) and presumably that in turn would affect the range of the battery. Has anyone ridden both that can comment? I can't find the EVO in my size at any LBS in my area so I can't try it myself. Thanks for your thoughts.

I you are riding 85% on roads, have you considered the Specialized Turbo Creo SL Expert instead of the Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO?

Specialized Turbo Creo SL Expert Review | ElectricBikeReview.com

Price: $9000.00 | Model Year: 2020 | A super-lightweight ~29lb full carbon electric road ebike, Class 3 speed-pedelec performance offers 28mph (45km/h) assisted speeds, proprietary Future Shock 2.0 steer tube suspension adds comfort while minimizing weight and maximizing rolling efficiency...

electricbikereview.com

Specialized Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO Review

Price: $6500 | Model Year: 2020 | A lightweight gravel grinder road ebike with flared handlebars, wide treaded tires, a seat post dropper, and unique Future Shock 2.0 steer tube suspension. Available in six frame sizes, sold through a vast network of dealers with professional fitting systems...

electricbikereview.com

 

[Deacon Blues]

I'm amazed at what a difference 3 or 4 pounds makes on the hills with this ebike.
I rode up a short but very steep hill on the aluminum model, then rode up the same hill on the SL Expert, which, I think, is about 3 to 4 pounds lighter than the aluminum model. The SL Expert felt noticeably faster up the hill.

 

[NBS]

Thanks guys. I went ahead and bought the Creo SL Comp carbon and have been riding it happily for the better part of a month now. I forgot I had posted this or would have updated, sorry. I didn’t want to spring for the $ to get the Expert. The ride quality and lighter weight of the carbon frame were the most important things to me. I can (and probably will) upgrade to a nicer set of wheels at some point, but I am very happy with this bike as it is right now. No problem at all getting up the climbs. I “feel” like I’m riding just normally, but getting up them a whole lot faster and enjoying them so much more.

 

[FlatSix911]

Congrats on your new Creo SL Comp Carbon... long may you ride!

 

[NBS]

Since you ask...my first thought was to use the front wheel from my Trek (Aeolus 3 TLR, disc with a through axle) and get the same rear wheel with a Creo appropriate cassette to make swapping between bikes easy. But that didn't work, when I lined up the rotor in the groove there was too much space between the right side and the fork for the through axle to reach (I used the Specialized axle per advice of my LBS; it fit fine but it wouldn't have mattered given the spacing problem). The Bontrager wheel that Trek puts on it's higher end Domane e-Bike, the Aeolus Pro 3V might work but, at appx the same $, the Roval C38 is the one Specialized puts on the Expert model and would certainly fit. My thinking is I can then put wider tires on this wheel set and then I will have a gravel version of the bike without having the hassle of changing tires back and forth. Voila! Two bikes for the price of... 1.25...(ish). How's that for a cost justification!

 

[StmbtDave]

Edit: I now realize that StmbtDave only gave a single 35% number. I assume this refers to the Support Level used. What was the Peak Power setting? If PP was also set at 35% then the max motor power (PP) would be limited to about 84W (0.35x240W) regardless of rider input. Setting PP to 100% makes it easier to see how much rider power is multiplied.

Your assumption was correct. I had my 3 levels set to 15/15, 35/35, 60/60.

I’m think I’m going to have to retract my statement on how the motor reacts to rider input.

Two days ago I rode one of my usual routes; 35 mile loop with 1,250’ elevation gain. I ride it almost exclusively in 15/15, going into 35/35 on two steep sections. Mission Control reported Avg Speed of 13mph, Total Consumption of 8.00wh and Avg Support Level of 3.34% - extremely efficient. Today I rode the same route, although in reverse, with my levels set to 15/100 and 35/100. I couldn’t believe the difference. I went into 35/100 twice (different direction = different climbs) with all the rest in 15/100. Mission Control today reported Avg Speed of 15mph, Total Consumption of 133.00wh, and Avg Support of 40.76. I also rode it 20 minutes faster. Unfortunately, yesterday I broke my phone mount so I couldn’t get readings of Rider Power verses Motor Power. I’ll get some readings when I can replace my phone mount but Mission Control reporting support at 41% when the vast majority of the ride was at 15% seems to say 15% isn’t 15%.

 

[NBS]

I also had another go at trying to figure this out mounting my phone on my bars while riding. At 35% support I saw motor power numbers close to 35% of rider power, as I expected. But at 50%, the two numbers were much closer to each other, as eLevity had suggested they would be. I didn't go into Turbo so I don't know what happens at 100%.

 

[sdbikegirl]

So I have the Comp Carbon Evo and upgraded to Di2 which I'm loving. However, I'm hearing a strange rattling noise that I cannot determine a source. Anyone else?

 

[Ebiker01]

Any of the Creo owners knows if she will accept a bigger chainring - a 48 or 50 ?

 

[sdbikegirl]

I would think your bike is new enough that you should be able to take it back to the shop and have them diagnose it and fix it under warranty. How long have you had your bike?

I've had her for about a month. So far I think its still a pending investigation. I've already had to replace the brake pads. Not sure what happened but they sounded like I was calling geese.

 

[Beamer]

RE: Brake squealing: Disc brakes are less likely to squeak if they are broken in. If they get too hot the pads can get a glaze on the surface that causes the squeaking. The pads can be taken off and sanded lightly with fine sandpaper to get the glaze off. Avoid getting grease, including fingerprints on the rotor and pads. The rotors can be cleaned with alcohol. There are Youtube videos on how to do this maintenance.

There may be more than one way to break in brakes, but I go about walking speed and stop the bike (not slamming on brakes, but a lighter application of the brake lever). Repeat this about 10-20 times, without overheating the brakes. This leaves a coating of the brake pad on the rotor. Some people also spray water on the rotor to create a slurry. Dry or wet, the purpose of the break in is to fill the pores on the rotor with pad material. Over cooking the brakes on long down hills can glaze the pads, but this will be less with break in.