Creo Remote Control DIY

[taylorpetie]

The Di2 shifter does not need to be connected to the Di2 battery/system -- in other words, it can be completely separated/isolated from Di2 system.

However, to reiterate: By cutting the cable between the Di2 top/hood button and Di2 shift lever buttons (i.e. located behind the shift lever), you've pretty much physically removed the shift lever buttons from the Di2 system.

I still have the Di2 top/hood button connected to the Di2 system because the wife uses the top button for controlling the Garmin.

 

[kattanm]

The Di2 shifter does not need to be connected to the Di2 battery -- in other words, it can be completely separated/isolated from Di2 system.

However, to reiterate: By cutting the cable that attached the top Di2 top/hood button and Di2 shift buttons (i.e. located behind the shift lever), you've pretty much physically removed the shift lever buttons from the Di2 system.

I still have the Di2 top/hood connected to the Di2 system because the wife uses the top button for controlling the Garmin.

What about this idea: if you had an extra piece of e-tube, what if you spliced the e-tube plug to the FSR cord (after cutting off the Levo remote). Then, could you just unplug the e-tube currently going into the shifter and plug in your new e-tube plug that is fused to the FSR cord? That would seem to be easier than doing the delicate surgery on the small piece of exposed e-tube in the shifter plus not require you to take apart the shifter since the e-tube plug holes are exposed.

 

[taylorpetie]

What about this idea: if you had an extra piece of e-tube, what if you spliced the e-tube plug to the FSR cord (after cutting off the Levo remote). Then, could you just unplug the e-tube currently going into the shifter and plug in your new e-tube plug that is fused to the FSR cord? That would seem to be easier than doing the delicate surgery on the small piece of exposed e-tube in the shifter plus not require you to take apart the shifter since the e-tube plug holes are exposed.

I tried that first and it didn’t work for me — I wish it was that easy. But, you should give it a shot, because I may have missed something.

 

[kattanm]

I tried that first and it didn’t work for me — I wish it was that easy. But, you should give it a shot, because I may have missed something.

Ugh that’s a bummer. In theory, it should be the same exact solution right? Same wires, plugs, holes, etc.?

 

[taylorpetie]

e-tube cable has 2 wires only. Somewhere between the top hood button and the e-tube junction connector, it went from 3 wires to 2 wires.

 

[eddief]

Found an easy way to mount the remote. Extender bar is 7/8" diameter. All sorts of different ones for sale on amazon.

View attachment 67382

I just ordered the exact parts you said you used. was this as simple as removing the TCU from the top tube, threading the remote cable through the hole in the frame, connecting to the spare lead coming out of the TCU, and them mounting the button thingy to the handlebar extension? is the cylinder on the bar extension the exact correct diameter to match the diameter of the remote assembly?

 

[StmbtDave]

I just ordered the exact parts you said you used. was this as simple as removing the TCU from the top tube, threading the remote cable through the hole in the frame, connecting to the spare lead coming out of the TCU, and them mounting the button thingy to the handlebar extension? is the cylinder on the bar extension the exact correct diameter to match the diameter of the remote assembly?

Yes, the remote is designed to mount on a 7/8" bar so the extender unit will work just fine. Unfortunately, the Creo has road drop bars that are larger than 7/8" so the remote will not mount directly to the bars.

 

[jbblunck]

I just did the approach noted at the beginning of the thread. The placement works for me. One touch Turbo is handy. I think this schema should be considered by anyone mounting a remote.

 

[alohamg]

What about this idea: if you had an extra piece of e-tube, what if you spliced the e-tube plug to the FSR cord (after cutting off the Levo remote). Then, could you just unplug the e-tube currently going into the shifter and plug in your new e-tube plug that is fused to the FSR cord? That would seem to be easier than doing the delicate surgery on the small piece of exposed e-tube in the shifter plus not require you to take apart the shifter since the e-tube plug holes are exposed.

Any success with this option?

 

[alohamg]

Has anyone had success with the option listed in post # 62?

 

[alohamg]

The shifter solution sounds like by far the most elegant solution of all, so looking for any feedback from anyone who's had any success. Mahalo

 

[SHAKEYSTART]

Could someone provide the P/N for the proper FSR cable for the left shifter mod? Thanks!

 

[Oberst]

Picking up my Carbon Comp Evo today. When I ordered the bike, I mentioned I wanted the buttons that come standard now on the higher spec ones. The owner had added them to his personal bike and told me he had ordered several sets. Stopped by Thursday to see if any eta on bike and there it was in the stand with the buttons on, the rack on and almost ready to go. This bike is replacing my Creo E5 and Vado 3.0 so will be road (paved and dirt) as well as light shopping and hopefully some longer trips. I also mentioned I would be ordering a range extender and he showed me the 5 boxes he had just gotten These guys are great and turned me on to e bikes a few years ago when they had a couple of base Levo’s in stock. Now they stock almost the whole lineup.

 

[Amoto65]

Picking up my Carbon Comp Evo today.

Great choice had mine for about 5 months now and just over 800 mls and loved every minute of it, Enjoy.

 

[Nxkharra]

Picking up my Carbon Comp Evo today. When I ordered the bike, I mentioned I wanted the buttons that come standard now on the higher spec ones. The owner had added them to his personal bike and told me he had ordered several sets. Stopped by Thursday to see if any eta on bike and there it was in the stand with the buttons on, the rack on and almost ready to go. This bike is replacing my Creo E5 and Vado 3.0 so will be road (paved and dirt) as well as light shopping and hopefully some longer trips. I also mentioned I would be ordering a range extender and he showed me the 5 boxes he had just gotten These guys are great and turned me on to e bikes a few years ago when they had a couple of base Levo’s in stock. Now they stock almost the whole lineup.

Pics please

 

[e-levity]

Hey @Oberst - sounds like you have a great LBS! Where in the US are you located?

 

[Oberst]

Hey @Oberst - sounds like you have a great LBS! Where in the US are you located?

Fredericksburg, VA.

 

[alohamg]

I tried that first and it didn’t work for me — I wish it was that easy. But, you should give it a shot, because I may have missed something.

Howzit, did you ever get the solution listed here to work? Just received my TCU adapter cable and trying to figure out if I should go all the way to the shifter or try it further downstream. Appreciate any feedback

 

[taylorpetie]

Howzit, did you ever get the solution listed here to work? Just received my TCU adapter cable and trying to figure out if I should go all the way to the shifter or try it further downstream. Appreciate any feedback

Refer to post #49 and #51. If your not comfortable with the DIY, you can order the stock buttons that should be available.

 

[bbell]

The "cut the Di2 wires coming from the shifter buttons" approach works because the Di2 shift buttons are just switches. You can't cut the actual Di2 cables in the top tube (or anywhere else) for this because they are a proprietary version of a CAN bus - its two wires carrying digital signals. Shimano would have to make a Di2 device that acted like a solenoid and they haven't done that. Wish they would - no one else can do it legitimately as Shimano's bus protocol is proprietary.

It should be possible to use wireless buttons (bluetooth or ANT+) that communicate with a wireless receiver that operates a solenoid inside the top tube. The solenoid would then have a wire similar to the FSR wire that goes to the TCU (easiest way is to cut the FSR shifter's wire off of it but that's also silly expensive). There are parts for all of this except the FSR shifter wire but it would be a project to get it going.