Creo Remote Control DIY

[bbagnell]

Here's my hack for power control. Since the left brake switches, intended for a front derailleur, don't do anything, I wired them to the power controller using the wires and plugs that are supplied as an extra. I cut off the buttons on the wire set, took apart the switch on the left shift lever, connected the wire set, and now I can control the power lever with the left brake switches. It was a bit tricky taking apart the brake lever switch, identifying the wires, soldering the tiny wires together, and hardest of all, reassembling the switch, which has a set of small springs. But once together it works great, no extra buttons, just the existing Ultegra shifter repurposed. Specialized should have thought of this.

 

[Allan47.7339]

Here's my hack for power control. Since the left brake switches, intended for a front derailleur, don't do anything, I wired them to the power controller using the wires and plugs that are supplied as an extra. I cut off the buttons on the wire set, took apart the switch on the left shift lever, connected the wire set, and now I can control the power lever with the left brake switches. It was a bit tricky taking apart the brake lever switch, identifying the wires, soldering the tiny wires together, and hardest of all, reassembling the switch, which has a set of small springs. But once together it works great, no extra buttons, just the existing Ultegra shifter repurposed. Specialized should have thought of this.

Which wires and plugs were supplied as an extra? Were these Specialized parts or Shimano? Was your method similar to post #49 that uses a Levo controller wire? I think a lot of shops just keep the extra bits because they assume most new owners would not know what the parts are used for and would toss them. I currently have the two buttons and plan to switch to the left shifter but I am making sure I have all the parts first.

 

[Mitch8]

There are no extra bits coming from Specialized or Shimano. I think he did exactly as we did. You need a Levo-Cable (Higo 6p) to connect to the tcu.

 

[Allan47.7339]

The original cable without can-bus is

S194200007.​

I've been looking for the S194200007 part but I think they may have updated the P/N to S216800019 ELE TRAIL REMOTE 2. It is listed for the 2022 Levo on the Specialized support page. Searching for that part turned up a couple of bike shops pages and both showed it applying to models including 2021-2019. I will probably order in store rather than online.

 

[Mitch8]

Yes, i can confirm. Is listed for bikes down till 2018.

 

[Allan47.7339]

I picked up the special order S216800019 ELE TRAIL REMOTE 2 today. I will check the function when it goes back to raining and I'm not riding.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Finally got around to doing the Di2 hack on my bike. Rather than cutting the Levo remote, I got a Higo 6 pin connector for a few bucks. Once I had worked out the wires to solder, it was a quick job and all done in under an hour. Works brilliantly. I did hold off as I was looking at the Classified 2x rear hub which needed the working Di2 lever, but they are not in hurry to do a Boost version. Will stick with this now as love it.

 

[pcracer]

Hello all. What an awesome forum and site. Just bought a Creo Expert. I have a Ridley MTB with DI2 and it has Shimano shifters and motor. Works seamlessly with left shifter operating power assist and right shifter operating rear cassette. Was blown away the a $9k plus Specialized bike was not wired the same. 1st ride was an issue. I'm not taking my hand off the bars to adjust for an immediate decision which happens often off road on stuff you never have been on.. So brake... stop...portage bike. This thread is the goal for me. Called 3 local LBS's, they think I'm on drugs. Hey, lets shoot for a Cali shop....umm you want to do what? Post something to Specialized, 2 1/2 weeks, uh we can't fix that, buy a remote bro. LAME.

So, my post. No one actually goes thru all that needs to be done. And man, I appreciate your efforts. I really want to get to the finish line. I'd gladly pay anybody in the Orlando area to do this for me. This should have been addressed from the manufacturer. When you ride something else that has it, no brainer people. Here are the missing issues:

1. Where did you do the splice? Did you pull existing cable thru the frame and splice the 2 cables there so you can't see it? Pics are dark. I can't see anything.
2. How did you route the new cable? Not going to void a warranty by drilling a new hole into the frame.
3. Where does this new cable connect to? Think about it. You are creating a new cable. The existing one still serves the button on the shifter top. So where does this new connection go and how does it connect (fitting configuration)?

Again, I appreciate your efforts. It just needs a more concise explanation. I can't figure out how to do this.

Thanks for your time.

 

[pcracer]

holy crap. sorry. Mitch8 you rule. Skipped over vid because it was in German. Have no idea what you are saying but can follow vid. This has all the answers. Now to find cable. original SN is discontinued. Leaving this post just for others lost. Mitch8 video explains all above. Thanks.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Hello all. What an awesome forum and site. Just bought a Creo Expert. I have a Ridley MTB with DI2 and it has Shimano shifters and motor. Works seamlessly with left shifter operating power assist and right shifter operating rear cassette. Was blown away the a $9k plus Specialized bike was not wired the same. 1st ride was an issue. I'm not taking my hand off the bars to adjust for an immediate decision which happens often off road on stuff you never have been on.. So brake... stop...portage bike. This thread is the goal for me. Called 3 local LBS's, they think I'm on drugs. Hey, lets shoot for a Cali shop....umm you want to do what? Post something to Specialized, 2 1/2 weeks, uh we can't fix that, buy a remote bro. LAME.

So, my post. No one actually goes thru all that needs to be done. And man, I appreciate your efforts. I really want to get to the finish line. I'd gladly pay anybody in the Orlando area to do this for me. This should have been addressed from the manufacturer. When you ride something else that has it, no brainer people. Here are the missing issues:

1. Where did you do the splice? Did you pull existing cable thru the frame and splice the 2 cables there so you can't see it? Pics are dark. I can't see anything.
2. How did you route the new cable? Not going to void a warranty by drilling a new hole into the frame.
3. Where does this new cable connect to? Think about it. You are creating a new cable. The existing one still serves the button on the shifter top. So where does this new connection go and how does it connect (fitting configuration)?

Again, I appreciate your efforts. It just needs a more concise explanation. I can't figure out how to do this.

Thanks for your time.

This is not a thing that most bike shop will do as it fall into electrics rather than bike. It was friend of mine that first did the Di2 hack and he is awesome with electrics. However, once it broken down into bits, it is actually fairly easy. First, this connector to the bike is 6 pin HIGO. If you look on Ebay, these should be less them $10 (was about £6 here in UK). This HIGO wire will connect to the TCU and easy pass out of the bike via the hole all brake cables come out of. All my wires (brake hose, Di2 and HIGO) come out this hole. With the DI2, you are not using this as Di2, more like a simple switch, to either go up of down. It it the case to find the right wire to do this. The German video does an awesome job showing this.

This is one of the best hacks for the Creo. Because it is so much easier to change power setting, you do find you save lots of battery, as I will often pop mine in no assist mode which is not easy to do on the TCU

 

[Mitch8]

holy crap. sorry. Mitch8 you rule. Skipped over vid because it was in German. Have no idea what you are saying but can follow vid. This has all the answers. Now to find cable. original SN is discontinued. Leaving this post just for others lost. Mitch8 video explains all above. Thanks.

Thanks ! I enjoy it on every ride.

 

[fgaston]

Hi-super helpful thread. I have non-Expert Creo without DI2, so wanted to bounce a solution off the group. I can buy the left DI2 shifter/brake lever on eBay, but it appears not to come with a cable from which to splice in a Levo FSR cable. Must I buy a Shimano DI2 cable for the connector, or can I solder the FSR cable directly into the shifter/brake lever? Reason I ask this is Turbo Creo Expert appears from this thread to come with a DI2 cable/connector that's been cut off as the shifter isn't needed. Cheers, Fred

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Hi-super helpful thread. I have non-Expert Creo without DI2, so wanted to bounce a solution off the group. I can buy the left DI2 shifter/brake lever on eBay, but it appears not to come with a cable from which to splice in a Levo FSR cable. Must I buy a Shimano DI2 cable for the connector, or can I solder the FSR cable directly into the shifter/brake lever? Reason I ask this is Turbo Creo Expert appears from this thread to come with a DI2 cable/connector that's been cut off as the shifter isn't needed. Cheers, Fred

So the short answer is yes. The Di2 lever is used essentially as a switch and the wires that get cut and spliced into are the one which go down to the lever switches. This does work on the Di2 protocol. With bikes like the Creo being 1x, the left lever is not used and hence the mode. The cheapest manner to join to TCU is via HIGO 6 pin ( I got mine from Ebay). This plug into the TCU remote port and you just need to work out which 3 wire to use. There is 1x common, 1x plus and 1x minus. The german video further back is excellent for this, even if you don't speak german !!!

 

[fgaston]

So the short answer is yes. The Di2 lever is used essentially as a switch and the wires that get cut and spliced into are the one which go down to the lever switches. This does work on the Di2 protocol. With bikes like the Creo being 1x, the left lever is not used and hence the mode. The cheapest manner to join to TCU is via HIGO 6 pin ( I got mine from Ebay). This plug into the TCU remote port and you just need to work out which 3 wire to use. There is 1x common, 1x plus and 1x minus. The german video further back is excellent for this, even if you don't speak german !!!

Many thanks. I just didn’t know whether the HIGO 6 pin wire could be wired directly into the DI2 lever or if needed to buy a Shimano cable that plugs into the lever and then make the connections.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

Many thanks. I just didn’t know whether the HIGO 6 pin wire could be wired directly into the DI2 lever or if needed to buy a Shimano cable that plugs into the lever and then make the connections.

You have to cut the cable in the Di2 lever that goes down the lever buttons. You then join the wires from the HIGO to these wires. Shimano does not support this via Di2, you are just using the Di2 lever as a switch. Out of the 6 wires in the HIGO, only 3 are used.

 

[Spanish Rider]

You have to cut the cable in the Di2 lever that goes down the lever buttons. You then join the wires from the HIGO to these wires. Shimano does not support this via Di2, you are just using the Di2 lever as a switch. Out of the 6 wires in the HIGO, only 3 are used.

It would be nice if there was someone on this message board who did these conversions. I'd be willing to pay for the conversion.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

It would be nice if there was someone on this message board who did these conversions. I'd be willing to pay for the conversion.

I have done it for a friend's bike also and is dead easy the second time. Just about having that bit of confidence. Cutting the wire on the Di2 feels really wrong the first time. I am based in the UK so long way from you !!!

 

[Allan47.7339]

I bought the all parts to make the conversion but after riding with the standard buttons for a year, I've not been motivated enough to do the alteration. I recommend riding for a while before you think about changing. It went from something I really wanted to change to something I rarely think about. Adding a Lupine Nano wired in headlight was much more satisfying.

 

[Dazmanturbo]

I bought the all parts to make the conversion but after riding with the standard buttons for a year, I've not been motivated enough to do the alteration. I recommend riding for a while before you think about changing. It went from something I really wanted to change to something I rarely think about. Adding a Lupine Nano wired in headlight was much more satisfying.

I had the same issue before I did mine as a scary thing to do. Essentially you are just using the Di2 to be a button, but from the riding point of view, it is absolute game changer for me. When changing power level on the top tube, you have to think about level, find the button and double check you have done the right thing. With the power on Di2, the button is under your fingertips, you can set power both up and down with a single push and it is dead easy. You will find yourself using this more often and it increased my battery range, so so much easier to drop a power level or two when needed.

 

[kahn]

I had the same issue before I did mine as a scary thing to do. Essentially you are just using the Di2 to be a button, but from the riding point of view, it is absolute game changer for me. When changing power level on the top tube, you have to think about level, find the button and double check you have done the right thing. With the power on Di2, the button is under your fingertips, you can set power both up and down with a single push and it is dead easy. You will find yourself using this more often and it increased my battery range, so so much easier to drop a power level or two when needed.

The same goes for the "official" Creo power/speed buttons. They are so much easier and probably safer than using the top tube control panel.