Controller recommendation

[harryS]

The controller limits the current, unless the battery was too small. That was what happened with the first battery, Now that the battery is big enough, there's no reason to change the controller. It should take care of itself, If you go higher current, then the battery may not be large enough again. You probably can't go much faster anyway. Air drag, etc. Ride safe.

Just curious. How much do you have to slow down to corner without tipping over?

There are XT90 anti-sparks which take care of arcing.

 

[MrMoore740]

Thanks, harrys so I sent you a message right you know a lot about batteries sorry I am a new member here, and thanks for getting back to me so the battery that keeps shutting off charges fine holds a charge fine
So I am thinking of replacing the BMS chip so I am wondering if you could help with that if you can 2 or 3 questions for ya but do not want to waste your time so wanted to check and see if you know about the chips first. As far as cornering you really just got to be aware and lean into the corner if a city block corner is around 5 mph the tighter the arc of the corner the slower you go. So far I have not tipped overbut if you get one back tire on unstable ground like coming off the pavement it will go right on over. so when on narrow road if you need to be out of the way you have to be careful. I live in the country and a hay bailer was taking up both lanes and I tried to bull off the road wound up in the ditch. The clearance width you got to watch out for. Hope that answers your question. So let me know and I will get the information off my BMS and questions togeather. What I can remember is 48v 16s 35a bms chip.

Thanks, Michael

 

[harryS]

It's always cleaner when you start a new thread. People will try to respond to the first poster and never get to your post.

It reads like you had a 17.5AH battery that would shut down on your trike, but you have a bigger BTR pack that runs it OK now. I replied that you don't need to change the controller because it has its own current limiter.

Now you're saying you took the BMS card out of the old battery and you want a new one? The old one was shutting down because the cells were not strong enough to run the big hubmotor, If you put in another BMS. the same thing will happem and it will shut down.

You probably know it's unsafe to run a battery without a BMS circuit. It's extremely dangerous. There's nothing to shut off the battery if cells get too low. Nothing to shut them off if the batteries gets unbalance, You can have a pefrectly good charger, but it will overcharge cells if the battery gets unbalanced. It's a serious fire risk. Don't do it,

Well, I appreciate the answer about trikes cornering. I thought about building one for a lady I know that can't bakance a regular bike, but I think she would flip it, unless I limit the speed to 8 mph,

 

[MrMoore740]

okay Hey thanks I was a lil confused sorry bout that oky so I have been running 2 batteries started with the 17.5 ah and a backup it is a ANKLOUS Ebike Battery 48V 13Ah Electric Bike Battery for 250-1000W Bike Motor with USB Port, 3A Charger, Safe Lock, Electric Bicycle Lithium Battery Compatible with Bafang now the only thing thats really different is that the battery lights on the throttle start all lit but it only being a 13 ah they go to red pretty fast and les power but I get about 11 miles backup. So I was told that replacing the bms could fix the shutting down issue and when I took the battery apart the wire to the motor just smaped off in my hand the solder was brittle or pourus and there was one loose wire on one of the pannels so I was thinking if I can replace the BMS and it works that would cost a lot less than a whole new battery. Let me know what you think about that idea and sorry bout the bold text I pasted the battery info and it sized down but stayed bold I think as I am disabled that's why I built the trike but it she is not going to far that a 250 or 300 watt motor would work well for her mine of course is a fat tire and I am about 30 miles round trip from a real town and can't drive so reason for the bigger motor and large Batteries. Again thanks you have been very helpful. The trike is my second build first was a Shwin Stingray design by orange county choppers and I put a 80cc 2 stroke on it but it's a single speed and only goes about 12 mph and loud so I am going to turn it into a electric chopper and I would not even attemt to run this battery without the BMS I am not an expert but did a months worth of research on batteries and the haxards that go along with them. So if I find a BMS chip how much difference is there between a 14s to a 16s both pretty much the dame but that and a 35a 16s is hard so far to locate.
Thanks
Michael

 

[harryS]

You got a lot of reading to do, Michael. The S refers to the number of cell groups in series. Each cell group is 3.6V at nominal charge so 10S is 36V and 13S is 48V, while 16S is 60V. You can't change the S because that's a physical constraint of the battery, how many cell groups it has.

A BMS is a circuit card, not a chip. A chip is a component on the circuit card, Again, you were told wrong about replacing the BMS. When they do their job right, the battery shuts off. And that's because the cells get worn out, especially on smaller batteries being asked to spin a big motor up past 22 mph. And when they wear out, you can't bring them back. They get unbalanced and shut down early.

My advice is to take some pictures of what wires broke on that first battery and go to a place like endless sphere where you will get advice on whether you can put those broken wires bacl on.