Controller help

[Andy1865]

Good evening All, id like alittle help deciding if this is the right conversion kit for me. The story goes i currently have a Freego Hawk running on a 36v and 15.6Ah battery with a 250w motor. The conversion kit im thinking of is a 250/500watt dual speed kit from Cyclotricity. The company that maybe fitting are saying that its ok to use my current battery but they are replacing the controller with a Rated current 15a and Max current 30a controller. What im asking is that will the battery be ok with this controller. Thank you for your time in reading this . Andy.

 

[indianajo]

Welcome to the site.
I've installed two hub motor kits, and I don't have any idea. There are 100+ suppliers of kits, some are great, some are horse *******. I've never run across either brand you mention in my web crawls. What continent are you on? Country?
I bought two trash batteries, then bought from the number 1 kit supplier in our country, luna. #3 works. So paying a premium for products from the big guy works, IMHO.
I'd say with the industry moving to 48 v at this time, finding a controller that will work at both voltages, 36 for your old battery, and 48 for your new one when that wears out, may be key. A 15 A controller is a bit obsolete with 1000 W 48 v requiring 26.5 A controllers. I don't really need 1000 W, but those kits are the cheapest on amazon/e-bay.
Edit, I checked the cyclotricity website, and it appears the 250/500 W hub motor is a LY like I bought from e-bay in the US. Price seems okay for basic goods. Cyclotricity is in Scotland, they say. My LY-48v-1000 direct drive wheel works: the controller has no pedal assist which I miss. At little higher price point, I bought a $330 geared hub kit that had PAS with a minimum speed of 11 mph, plus a throttle. 11 mph is too fast for bad pavement or off road, but that kit had plenty of power. Just I never got over 13 miles with it, I pedaled home with a dead system twice. See bad batteries story above, I may have had a good kit, just haven't tested it with the new battery yet. (It's out at the summer camp, I'm in winter townhome). Don't forget the optional torque arms on any but the heaviest of 70's or earlier steel frame. Have a body grinder handy, plus safety glasses. I had to grind out the slot on the fork to make the geared hub work, and I had to grind the axle fat part narrower on the direct drive hub to unload the pinching of the frame on the sides of the motor, which has no internal thrust bearings & locked up on me at first pedaling it.

 

[harryS]

It's a hard question to answer without knowing how your battery was built. You have to trust that your shop knows what it's doing. I think they do.

In my opinion, a typical 15.6AH battery should be able to handle 30A without straining the cells, and that's the max of the proposed controller, so all should be well. If you had a 10aH or 12AH battery, that kind of current level would shorten battery life.

 

[Andy1865]

Thank you Harry

 

[Andy1865]

It's a hard question to answer without knowing how your battery was built. You have to trust that your shop knows what it's doing. I think they do.

In my opinion, a typical 15.6AH battery should be able to handle 30A without straining the cells, and that's the max of the proposed controller, so all should be well. If you had a 10aH or 12AH battery, that kind of current level would shorten battery life.

Thank you

Welcome to the site.
I've installed two hub motor kits, and I don't have any idea. There are 100+ suppliers of kits, some are great, some are horse *******. I've never run across either brand you mention in my web crawls. What continent are you on? Country?
I bought two trash batteries, then bought from the number 1 kit supplier in our country, luna. #3 works. So paying a premium for products from the big guy works, IMHO.
I'd say with the industry moving to 48 v at this time, finding a controller that will work at both voltages, 36 for your old battery, and 48 for your new one when that wears out, may be key. A 15 A controller is a bit obsolete with 1000 W 48 v requiring 26.5 A controllers. I don't really need 1000 W, but those kits are the cheapest on amazon/e-bay.
Edit, I checked the cyclotricity website, and it appears the 250/500 W hub motor is a LY like I bought from e-bay in the US. Price seems okay for basic goods. Cyclotricity is in Scotland, they say. My LY-48v-1000 direct drive wheel works: the controller has no pedal assist which I miss. At little higher price point, I bought a $330 geared hub kit that had PAS with a minimum speed of 11 mph, plus a throttle. 11 mph is too fast for bad pavement or off road, but that kit had plenty of power. Just I never got over 13 miles with it, I pedaled home with a dead system twice. See bad batteries story above, I may have had a good kit, just haven't tested it with the new battery yet. (It's out at the summer camp, I'm in winter townhome). Don't forget the optional torque arms on any but the heaviest of 70's or earlier steel frame. Have a body grinder handy, plus safety glasses. I had to grind out the slot on the fork to make the geared hub work, and I had to grind the axle fat part narrower on the direct drive hub to unload the pinching of the frame on the sides of the motor, which has no internal thrust bearings & locked up on me at first pedaling it.

Thank you Indianajo

It's a hard question to answer without knowing how your battery was built. You have to trust that your shop knows what it's doing. I think they do.

In my opinion, a typical 15.6AH battery should be able to handle 30A without straining the cells, and that's the max of the proposed controller, so all should be well. If you had a 10aH or 12AH battery, that kind of current level would shorten battery life.

Morning HarryS, why is it that the Cyclotricity controller that is being fitted is Rated current 15A and Max current 30A, and afew people say my current battery will damage the controller/current battery?. The controller that is currently fitted is Nominal 7A and Max rated 15A. Thanks for reading.