CCX Smaller Chainring Options

linklemming

Well-Known Member
Im considering getting a CCX. Much of my use will have quite alot of hills. Im currently doing these with a Bulls Evo 3 27.5+ with a 28/38 crankset and 11-42 cassette. Since the bulls is a MTB and used mostly for MTB stuff, the gears seem perfect. The CCX would be for more road oriented tasks.

For the CCX, I would like to go to a smaller chainring, basically topping out around 30mph at 90rpm cadence.

Online bike gearing calculators show I can achieve this with a 44t chainring. Can I simply buy a chainring this size for the CCX crankset.

If not, anyone have recommendations on another crankset. If I was to go with a new crankset, I would prefer to abandon the square taper BB setup
 
I know several people on this site have changed out the chainring. So as long as you get the correct BCD for the cranks it should work fine. I'd also recommend you shorten the chain if you do this as the chain is already probably too long for the 52T ring.
 
Yes, if the BCD is the same it should be a simple swap. Keep in mind that if you drop way down to a 44T the chain ring guard might not work as the stock one is setup for the 52T ring. Also, with all of that power on the CCX you might want to go for a 46-48T ring. I have the original Cross Current (which has a little over half as much power as the CCX) and I can spin out my 52-12 on the top assist mode under the right conditions at 29-30mph.
 
I can spin out my 52-12 on the top assist mode under the right conditions at 29-30mph.
This is a relative statement for each rider, as some people like higher cadence than others. I don't shift out of 7th gear (52-15) until at least 28 mph and 8th (52-13) takes me to around 33, I rarely use 9th (52-11) as I am not going faster than that very often.
 
oh man what's the point of 44T ring... I know it's to each their own, but I'd like to have an option of 52-11T gear ratio. (4.7:1)

Also, note that the ratio you're trying to achieve by 44-11T (4.0:1) is identical to 52-13T (4.0:1).

Are you really that lazy to find your 8th gear? or do you just want to shift down to 9th gear as fast as possible by repeated shifting.


Its more about the low end (i.e. climbing) than the high end. I am fully aware of what is required to get up the hills and I need gearing lower than 52/32.

Lazy? Seriously???

If your ever in the boulder, co area, give me a holler, I would love to demonstrate some hills where 52/32 wont work.
 
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ok sorry I guess I misread what you meant, I thought you're trying to achieve 90rpm @ 30mph, which you could have done by simply shifting down to 8th gear instead of replacing the whole chain ring.

Yes, that most certainly would be lazy of me.:)

The cassette you mentioned/linked to might be a good alternative, might new a new derailler to use that. I will keep that in mind. Im from the older school MTB bike days where a 32T was considered huge.

Im not too concerned about top speed which is the limit I was trying to convey in my original message. For my use case 30mph is more than enough
 
I am running a 40 tooth chainring with the stock cassette. Lots of hills around here, Marin County, CA, and I am nearly always in ECO mode. This does make for high cadence over 20 MPH, but it's not totally outrageous.

It's a Raceface ring, wide/narrow teeth for single ring use. It's also available in 42t and 44t. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEE7VNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No matter what you buy, or even if you stay with the stock ring, you need to shorten your chain so that it's just long enough for the biggest c.og.
 
I am running a 40 tooth chainring with the stock cassette. Lots of hills around here, Marin County, CA, and I am nearly always in ECO mode. This does make for high cadence over 20 MPH, but it's not totally outrageous.

It's a Raceface ring, wide/narrow teeth for single ring use. It's also available in 42t and 44t. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEE7VNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No matter what you buy, or even if you stay with the stock ring, you need to shorten your chain so that it's just long enough for the biggest c.og.

Awesome, thanks for the info. Thats exactly what I was hoping for
 
I'm curious - do many people use the 11T 9th gear? I find it to be too grindy on my CCS compared to 7th and 8th to be of much use to me.
 
I'm curious - do many people use the 11T 9th gear? I find it to be too grindy on my CCS compared to 7th and 8th to be of much use to me.
You have to like a slow pedal cadence to use 9th gear. To me its only usable above 33 mph. That doesn't happen a lot.
 
I like 9th gear. On a bit of a downhill, doing a 75 rpm cadence, getting up around 28-30 mph, 9th is very comfortable. Otherwise, no, I don't use it much. I'm glad it's there.
 
I am running a 40 tooth chainring with the stock cassette. Lots of hills around here, Marin County, CA, and I am nearly always in ECO mode. This does make for high cadence over 20 MPH, but it's not totally outrageous.

It's a Raceface ring, wide/narrow teeth for single ring use. It's also available in 42t and 44t. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEE7VNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No matter what you buy, or even if you stay with the stock ring, you need to shorten your chain so that it's just long enough for the biggest c.og.

I am still waiting on my new CrossCurrent S-2 to arrive. I am almost sure I will want to go to the 40T front chainring. What type of chainring does Juiced use? Is it 4 or 5 bolt, and what is BCD and any other required ordering specs...
 
Having lived in both Marin and the front range of Colorado, I can confirm that 52-32 is not suitable for some hills in both locations. However, I swapped my front chain ring for 56 teeth, as soon as I get east of Golden the metro area flattens out substantially and I enjoy the slower cadence speeds.
 
Having lived in both Marin and the front range of Colorado, I can confirm that 52-32 is not suitable for some hills in both locations. However, I swapped my front chain ring for 56 teeth, as soon as I get east of Golden the metro area flattens out substantially and I enjoy the slower cadence speeds.
Duh...I guess I missed something. Going from a 52 to a 56 front chainring would make the hills even harder.????? I am sure the 56 is OK on a flat surface, but I do a lot of hills, steep hills.......
 
Duh...I guess I missed something. Going from a 52 to a 56 front chainring would make the hills even harder.????? I am sure the 56 is OK on a flat surface, but I do a lot of hills, steep hills.......

That's what I meant by "however." I'm not climbing up any steep hills on my CCS as I use it for commuting to/from Denver from Golden. The MUP on clear creek trail never gets all that steep.
 
The day after the CrossCurrent S-2 arrived, I changed the front Chainring to a 42t. It worked great and may have been enough, but I also changed the rear cassette to a 11T-40T. I had to adjust the "B" screw, but the shifting is smooth. I have only had 4 long rides with various hills, but I am very satisfied with the set up. I am planning a 45 miler with 4,600 feet of climbing. If anyone is interested, I will post results. I love the bike and us old folks certainly need the assist at times, but I try to ride mostly with the motor "OFF". Today I will receive the new Fast Battery Charger I ordered. There is one thing I already do not like about the new battery charger. The 1st step in buying the Fast charger is to pay for the stock one that I now don't need. Juiced should allow you to select which one you want when ordering the bike.
 
The day after the CrossCurrent S-2 arrived, I changed the front Chainring to a 42t. It worked great and may have been enough, but I also changed the rear cassette to a 11T-40T. I had to adjust the "B" screw, but the shifting is smooth. I have only had 4 long rides with various hills, but I am very satisfied with the set up. I am planning a 45 miler with 4,600 feet of climbing. If anyone is interested, I will post results. I love the bike and us old folks certainly need the assist at times, but I try to ride mostly with the motor "OFF". Today I will receive the new Fast Battery Charger I ordered. There is one thing I already do not like about the new battery charger. The 1st step in buying the Fast charger is to pay for the stock one that I now don't need. Juiced should allow you to select which one you want when ordering the bike.
For anyone even vaguely interested, I completed a ride to test the long-distance performance of the CCS2 in tough climbs. I covered 40 miles with STRAVA saying I had 4,773 feet of climbing.

I will start with this note: There was a movie called “No country for old men”. The movie did not identify where that country was. I know where it is. It is called Figueroa Mountain, and it is located 11 miles east of Los Olivos Ca.

I should also note that this test was to determine how far you can go on a single charge. I used the absolute least battery I could and still function. I have a 42T on the front and a 11T-40T cassette on the rear. I weight 207 am I am 72.5 years old, and the bike with rack-water and stuff probably weights 60+ lbs. All of these things have to be considered in evaluation your performance vs mine.

I have ridden this exact course before on my 27 lb. road bike. There were a couple of short sections where I had to step off the road bike and push.

My plan for the E-bike on the climb was to use the lowest gears with no assistance until I could not make it any further, and then start with ECO mode. My plan worked out- sorta… There is a 6.7 mile section before the climb starts. There is only 560 feet of altitude gain for the entire section; pretty flat. On the road bike it feels flat, on the E-bike; - not so flat. A couple of the little short hills did not feel so little or short. However, I made the first 6.7 without using any battery. Once the climb started, big difference. I had to use Eco most of the climb with a few sections that required 1 or 2 or 3 to complete. This is with me in the lowest gear, and applying all the pedal power I could muster. I stopped 9 times on the way up to take battery readings, - and to rest a bit and wipe sweat from eyes. I also stopped 4 times on the way down to let the breaks cool off a bit.

I tried to take the readings that are relevant to battery usage. I will attach a spreadsheet of all data. I took altitude readings at each stop and calculated the Altitude gain per mile. On some sections you can clearly see the altitude gain sucking the power from the battery. With only 8 mostly flat miles to go I had 3 battery bars left. I knew this was plenty to get back, (ended up with 2 bars) so I pushed the assist to level 3 because I was thirsty. (I had parked in front of a Brewery)

Would appreciate any analysis of data provided. For me this is as far as I can go under these conditions. If you are younger and stronger than me, then you will be able to stretch out the miles, but a 60 lb. bike on a steep grade is going to be a problem no matter who you are…..

NOTE: there were a 100+ dip on the way up and down that screwed up the gain per segment on a couple of segments, but no big deal….

EDIT # 1 It occurred to me that I did not describe the road I traveled very well. I would not want the reader to think I was climbing a dirt brush trail up the Mt. LOL Figueroa Mt. road is paved all but about 3 miles which is dirt/gravel. That 3 miles is pretty rough, but passable with a car, and not much of a problem with a bike. I have included some pictures so the reader can get a feel for the road.
 

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