CCX intermittent power

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Yea I think this is still usable with your first suggestion. Looking at the wear it's appears that only the tip touches which seems really odd. It's got me thinking if the male pins got pushed in?

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Taking out in the inner o-ring wasn't quite the fix for me. I notice that I do have excessive play now & some of that is due to the wearing of where the bolt locks into the battery. For now I've put a couple pieces of tape in there to make the hole smaller so it pulls the battery in more. Hopefully it holds up.
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The whole issue on the battery contact is the pins are only going into the female using a 1/16th of an inch or less contact. Look at those pics, pins should go in at least a 1/2in to make a quality contact. I've never seen pins that contact so little in all my life. That's the friggen issue, period!
 
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I just shipped my battery out to Juiced because according to them the issue is with the female connector. Wish there was an advance exchange option, but at least I still have my original CC which has a bad rear wheel but is now working with the CCX wheel.

Same here, I opened a support ticket for my 17.4ah battery and it looks like the pins are pushed back. They are charging me $80 to diagnose it. I already replaced the male connector when I upgraded to the CCS controller and there was no change. Fortunately I’ve been able to ride my 500wh battery in the meantime albeit with a lot less range. My 500wh battery works perfectly every time and has never had any issues with losing power over bumps. Here is the link Juiced Bikes support sent me:

https://support.juicedbikes.com/hc/...-Battery-Discharge-Port-Socket-Pins-pushed-in

Presumably you could buy a replacement connector for the battery and install it yourself but you’d have to be very careful not to short out the two pins while installing it.
 
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I contacted the company and they informed me they do not sell the connectors separately....wow what a scam sure I want to spend over a grand on a new battery because youdont want to sell a 3 dollar part! That's ok I found a suitable substitution for what I need to attach a different battery into the bikes connector

https://electricscooterparts.com/batterychargerconnectors.html. this site has a connector that I think will work
 

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For the most part, it seems to me that some Reention Dorado battery connection issues are related to the massive weight of a Juiced designed battery. The 13# weight of the 52 volt 19.2 Ah battery could be causing vibratory jostling and excessive wear at the connection point. Wear certainly can play a role with the Reention connection when installing and uninstalling the battery for recharge cycles. That, so far, is a non-issue on my CCX, and may be due to the fact that all my recharge cycles are being conducted WITHOUT removing the battery from the bike. If there is a wear issue happening on some bikes, it seems a good try for a fix is to add support with strapping. I would be very wary about trying any other modification.

Also, I am suspicious that sometimes the Juiced Torque sensor may be having a role in an intermittent power sensation during bumpy rides. That would negate any need for a connection solution. Ultimately, if it is the torque sensor causing an intermittent power sensation, I would consider it an unintended minor characteristic of the sensor design.

I would guess that in the long run the Reention connection design will prove consistently reliable, especially if the weight of batteries are reduced as cell technology improves in future updates.;)
 
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We notice there is a lot of incorrect information in this thread. This issue has been fully understood and resolved with an improved part. Please contact customer support if you experience intermittent power delivery.

Can you give us any details at all to what the problem was and how it was fixed? What information in the thread is incorrect? Let people know so they can be educated about the issue. It helps a bunch.
 
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I own an Ocean Current with the 48v 17.5Ah battery, had this bike for the last 20 months and covered 8000km so far, just recreational cycling covering a 100km or so a week, battery is rarely removed from the frame and is charged on the bike.

Over the last month I have had intermittent drop outs with the torque sensor, I checked all the wires and plugs for damage, nothing, also I get a real humming from the motor under load, vibrates right through the frame, I took the back wheel off to replace the chain and cassette as the chain as getting quite worn, took the opportunity to open the motor, all pretty clean, no water ingress, the nylon planetary gears look fine, barely any wear, I have to say the humming is from the straight cut gears with a little bit of wear, added a touch more grease and reassembled the motor, didn't make that much difference.

Last week the battery dropped to one flashing led on the battery meter, I turned the bike off, turned it back on and seems to work ok, get home but the range has dropped.

When I first had the bike I could do 45km before the battery meter drops to 4leds, then twelve months later the range drops to 35km before it drops to 4leds, now it was only getting to 25km,

I could still do 50-55km which is drop from the 75-80km when new, but I do expect some range loss as the battery ages.

So anyway, get home and remove the battery so I can check the power socket, the female socket was full of dust, blew this out with compressed air then cleaned the sockets with alcohol and micro brushes, scraped a bit of corrosion out and tightened the sockets a bit, each socket is four segments of a quarter circle, very carefully bent these in with a fine screwdriver, then I took the locking plate out of the bike and cleaned the pins with autosol polish and thoroughly cleaned with alcohol and compressed air.

Put it all back together and fitted the battery back on, I also put a wide stretchy Velcro strap several times around the top half of the battery, took the bike for a 20min ride today, no glitches with the torque sensor, smooth power delivery in all levels right up to sport mode

Will see how it goes over the weekend on a longer ride to see what the range is like.
 
Yes, the information is in our FAQs posted a few months back.

https://support.juicedbikes.com/hc/...-Battery-Discharge-Port-Socket-Pins-pushed-in

Basically on some early units, the pins could get pushed in under certain conditions. This issue has been resolved with the connector supplier. Contact support if you experience this type of power disconnection. It will be resolved.
@Tora Harris ,
Thanks for taking the time to address this thread.

I had the intermittent power problem. In my battery the connector sleeves were never displaced (pushed in) and still the engagement of the pins into the sleeves was not enough to prevent a blackout on a bumpy road. By removing the back o'ring on the male connector and using two velcro straps the problem in my bike is under control. Solved, but not to my satisfaction.
My point is that there still seems to be a problem of not enough engagement of the male pins into the battery connector sleeves, even when the battery connector sleeves are in the correct position.

This thread has generated a number of recent interactions, an indication that the problem may not be completely over (?). We are -most of us- happy with the performance of the bikes, and by using this forum we want to produce feedback to make the product even better. The number of comments in this thread may also indicate that some of us get frustrated communicating via the support group.
 
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Ok, covered 55km today, no glitches or fade out with the torque sensor, so it was the dirty battery connectors, range seems to be better too.
 
Hey I know may be a bit off topic but the battery that I use on the M2S bike is the same as the Juice bike and both companies want between 500 and 80p or higher for these batteries. I found my 52 volt 17 AH version on Alibaba for about $450 shipped I will let you know if it comes ok and is what it's supposed to be but I think the only problem will be my display will not read out the correct battery level. But there is one on the battery itself
 
This is TOTALLY wrong advice.

@Tora Harris, regarding the video that shows how to use a soldering iron to displace the male pins of the frame connector, it may be bad advice, I agree 100% with your assessment, but the video points to the real problem: poor connector engagement.

In my CCX battery the female sleeves are in the correct position. I ordered a spare frame connector assy. from JB and dimensions of the plastic parts and the connector pins are the same as in the original set that came with the bike, no changes there. So, even if the battery connectors have been improved, still there seems to be a dimensional problem with other parts, that prevents a reliable connector engagement.

As I pointed in another post, I solved the problem by removing the o'ring on the back of the male connector and using velcro straps to keep the battery to the right as much as possible. Probably this is also a bad advice... but it worked for me...

When users take action on their own to solve a problem... it could be because they did not get the solution via the formal channel.
 
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I had an intermittent power issue on my CCS (3500 miles) which eventually led to catastrophic failure of both the male and female connectors on the battery. Essentially due to arcing the female port melted sufficiently that one of the male posts broke off.

Juiced took my battery in for warranty, repaired it, and over a month (!) later I was back on the road. I had intermittent power failure again within 100 miles. Again, the female port is showing signs of arcing/melted plastic.

I have utilized a tie wrap connector and a shim on the battery mount to secure the battery which seems to alleviate the problem but given that I commute 20 miles each way I'm not entirely comfortable with this solution, and will likely send the battery back to Juiced once again under warranty (and once again at $40 UPS ground freight at my expense) for further repairs.

I don't believe that Juiced's claims that they have re-engineered the connectors are sufficient. The engineering problem is with the mount, along with the connectors.

I love this bike and it's everything I need for a long range commuter, but with this issue I couldn't recommend it to another purchaser.
 
270 miles since I got my CCX battery back two weeks ago & has been working fine so far without strapping it down.

I believe the CCS has a smaller format downtube like my CC for which I did eventually have to strap down the battery and worked fine for thousands of mile before I got the CCX.
 
Juiced just reported this thread for containing posts with dangerous advice. I have removed those posts and am closing the thread to further comments.
 
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