CCS Add-ons & Upgrades & Handlebar Options

[Asher]

Maybe this thread should be retitled to CCS Add ons and Upgrades :

I got the Market Panniers from Banjo Brothers. Haven't actually used it but successfully mounted it on the rack without much to do.

I put the pannier on the top bar of the rack, with one hook where the rear light is, on the left side of the bike. Bit of a squeeze in there and it scratches the rack over time but whatever.

I also added the provided hook which you latch an elastic-nylon band to. There's about an inch or two of clearance between my heel and the bag with this setup (I'm a size 11, XL bike).

The bag feels very sturdy, the fabric is durable. It was the biggest bag I could find, 1500 cubic inches 25 liters; all my prior research suggested it was the best, at least in it's price range ($50). Add a $1 belt clip and you get free shipping.

I may stuff some foam from the bike box in it for cushioning as there is none.

 

[MisterBritcom]

Help!
I got a new bar for my CCS and I can't get the stock Velo ergonomic locking grips to go on. The new bar is identical size, just more rise and sweep. I took the bolts on the ends of the grips completely out (oops?) And I can't figure out how to get them to tighten up inside the new bar ends, the bolts just spin around.

 

[DanInStPete]

@MisterBritcom I just had the same issue trying to install those grips on my Trek (I swapped out my Ergon grips). The stock grips will NOT go on the bar on the Trek with the plastic shim installed. The hole must be just slightly smaller. I had to just tighten the inner collar.

So, thinking you may need new grips.

 

[DanInStPete]

@Asher okay I'm in! I needed a mirror, couldn't use an end-bar mirror because of my grips, and liked the Hafny mirrors but didn't want my bike to look like a moped.

So, I ordered a RIGHT Hafny mirror and installed it under the bar on the left. Wasn't sure it was going to fly but it worked out great!

 

[Reid]

Help!
I got a new bar for my CCS and I can't get the stock Velo ergonomic locking grips to go on. The new bar is identical size, just more rise and sweep. I took the bolts on the ends of the grips completely out (oops?) And I can't figure out how to get them to tighten up inside the new bar ends, the bolts just spin around.

That happened to me, too, when I tried to fit the old grips to the new bar.

It is hard to see into the stock grips, but if you do look, you will see there is a steel cup with four slits, if I recall the number correctly (I no longer have the stock grips).

The cup up inside the grip expands when the end bolt is tightened and that is what locks the outboard end of the grip from spinning.

But to get the grip to insert fully on the new bar you need to poke a slender tool in there, such as an ice pick, and gently bend inward, collapse as it were, the four petals of the cup, just a bit, so they will pass into the bar's internal diameter.

And that is it!

 

[MisterBritcom]

Fear not!

That happened to me, too, when I tried to fit the old grips to the new bar.

It is hard to see into the stock grips, but if you do look, you will see there is a steel cup with four slits.

The cup expands when the end bolt is tightened and that is what locks the outboard end of the grip from spinning.

But to get the grip to insert fully on the new bar you need to poke a slender tool in there, such as an ice pick, and gently bend inward, collapse as it were, the four petals of the cup, just a bit, so they will pass into the bar's internal diameter.

And that is it!

Thank you sir, gonna try it now.
Edit: my mistake was removing the end bolts completely instead of just loosening them. This allowed the cone nuts to get lost inside the new bar, which I'd already clamped to the stem. Maybe this will help another newbie in the future when changing their bars. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Reid]

TBH I didn't because I wanted to cut more than an inch and Reid said he had trouble with that - although he wanted to cut way more than me, 9", I'd only be cutting about ~2.5" off each end.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Quick-Release-1-1-8-in-Tube-Cutter-80-772-111/204258904

 

[Chris Hammond]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Quick-Release-1-1-8-in-Tube-Cutter-80-772-111/204258904
View attachment 20913

Reid, is that what you used to cut your bars? Did you have any issues doing so?

 

[Reid]

Reid, is that what you used to cut your bars? Did you have any issues doing so?

Yeah, Chris, that is the exact tool. I linked it because it is a value priced tool readily available. Check out a YouTube video for tips if you never cut tubing before? It is a super easy job to shorten your bars but reinserting the stock grips is a bit of a trick! Remember to de-burr the ID of the cut.

Cheers!

 

[Asher]

For those looking for locks, I just barely managed to fit the Tigr Mini into the holder, with my 19.2ah battery. It requires pocketing the lock mechanism, and putting only the bow portion inside the holder, but it's surprisingly snug. Will post a picture.

The lock is great because it's mid level security, only a pound, and has a terrific mount. I have a Kryptonite mini u that would swing into my thighs path because the mount was so awful.

 

[Asher]

Just ordered this cellphone mount even though I already had one. Wayyy better than anything else I've seen. Also, kind of odd how Amazon buries this among a sea of cheap plastic mounts.

It replaces the top cap on your headset, and it's gunmetal grey aluminum. Best part, I think I can alternate between recording video and navigation just by pushing the mount up and down. No external camera needed!

It does require putting a plastic piece on the back of your phone, though you could just stick it to a case that holds the phone on the bike.

Haven't mounted yet since I'm getting new handlebars and want to fit it right. On the stock bars, you'll need to move the display to the right side so it doesn't block your view if you want to record. You could probably also do a fair job of rear recording as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0719NNX3Y

 

[Asher]

I got the new handlebar I wanted (not what I mentioned earlier), and it's a dream. The Velo Orange Postino. $30.

It's early, but I think this is the perfect bar for athletic urban commuting: multiple positions does not make sense, because you need to access brakes and preferably shifters at all times, while being able to go upright or down low as needed.

Also, try holding a rod with one hand. The most comfortable angle is not perpendicular to your hand, but at a 45 degree angle, which is exactly what this bar has (as well as the Jones H bar). Same for SQLab's urban bar, which is very similar to the Postino, but you can cut the SQLab down to size, though it doesn't have the nice polished finish the Velo Orange Postino does. Velo Orange has the Milan which is similar, but is not as swept back; I went with the Postino because the 45 angle seems most ergonomic.

The positioning is a little narrow at first, but it gives the bike a terrific sprightly feel, even without the power on as I discovered. The 45 degree angle plus the palm rests lets you lean forward and flex your lats, and really hammer the pedals. And despite that, there was virtually no weight on my wrists. My quads began to burn almost immediately in a good way (much like DOMS).

IMO, a wide handlebar is meant for MTB where you need stable handling to navigate rocks and such - and you don't have to worry about narrow passageways. Urban commuting is the opposite.

Plus, I just got a like new Body Float from a guy at half off MSRP, and it's magical - you see the bike going over bumps and feel it slightly through your feet on the pedals, but your ass - and therefore your spine, is completely out of the loop on all that road noise.

The BF seller, who I found through Craigslist actually owned a Juiced before, sold it for what he bought it for (which is unheard of for bikes) along with some upgrades, and is planning to buy an RCS. We were in a supermarket parking lot, and then a random older guy started talking to us and I let him ride my CCS, and he was getting excited and serious about buying an ebike lol.

I'm considering getting the cork Ergon grips for backswept bars, though the stock grips still do a decent job. Also thinking about a mirror.

 

[Reid]

I got the new handlebar I wanted (not what I mentioned earlier), and it's a dream. The Velo Orange Postino. $30.

It's early, but I think this is the perfect bar for athletic urban commuting: multiple positions does not make sense, because you need to access brakes and preferably shifters at all times, while being able to go upright or down low as needed.

Also, try holding a rod with one hand. The most comfortable angle is not perpendicular to your hand, but at a 45 degree angle, which is exactly what this bar has (as well as the Jones H bar). Same for SQLab's urban bar, which is very similar to the Postino, but you can cut the SQLab down to size, though it doesn't have the nice polished finish the Velo Orange Postino does. Velo Orange has the Milan which is similar, but is not as swept back; I went with the Postino because the 45 angle seems most ergonomic.

The positioning is a little narrow at first, but it gives the bike a terrific sprightly feel, even without the power on as I discovered. The 45 degree angle plus the palm rests lets you lean forward and flex your lats, and really hammer the pedals. And despite that, there was virtually no weight on my wrists. My quads began to burn almost immediately in a good way (much like DOMS).

IMO, a wide handlebar is meant for MTB where you need stable handling to navigate rocks and such - and you don't have to worry about narrow passageways. Urban commuting is the opposite.

Plus, I just got a like new Body Float from a guy at half off MSRP, and it's magical - you see the bike going over bumps and feel it slightly through your feet on the pedals, but your ass - and therefore your spine, is completely out of the loop on all that road noise.

The BF seller, who I found through Craigslist actually owned a Juiced before, sold it for what he bought it for (which is unheard of for bikes) along with some upgrades, and is planning to buy an RCS. We were in a supermarket parking lot, and then a random older guy started talking to us and I let him ride my CCS, and he was getting excited and serious about buying an ebike lol.

I'm considering getting the cork Ergon grips for backswept bars, though the stock grips still do a decent job. Also thinking about a mirror.

View attachment 21014View attachment 21015

Thanks for the truly insightful report. Now I have to buy a new bar!

OH, just one thing, grin: cork is cool!
https://archive.org/stream/bicycleaccess00riceuoft#page/22/mode/2up
True then, true today.

consider too, really nice sponge rubber grips

 

[Asher]

[I moved the display to the right side since the pic was taken]

Here is the bar. It took a little elbow grease and fiddling to get everything in a good place, and the brake levers are a bit far from the bar, but it's all working now. It's very easy to pivot between upright, Dutch style, and getting low but with lots of hand and wrist support, thanks to the 45 degree angle and the stock ergo grips (the Ergon GC1 is for backswept bars like this, and it should be even better).

In fact, I looked at some Dutch handlebar pictures and this is almost identical except the Dutch ones have a big rise and this is completely flat.

 

[Asher]

Also, I found out that it's very easy to 'carve' like on a snowboard with these bars


https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0230/2239/files/www.GIFCreator.me_17Qsm0_large.gif?v=1489697475

You just apply little pressure to one palm and then the other without moving your hands, while somewhat upright. Fun for coasting to a red light (though don't be surprised if bitter drivers go apesh** when they see you having fun in front of them).

 

[DanInStPete]

@Asher That’s a great safety move to practice and it’s taught in motorcycle classes. It is counter-intuative, but in an emergency you apply pressure to the grip in the direction you need to move: right grip to go right, left grip to go left. So, to go right you actually start the move by turning the bar left. The harder you press the faster the bike is weighted into the direction of the turn.

Most of us do this subconciously, since the only other way to turn is to lean your body in the direction of the turn until the bike leans, which takes longer.

A quick jab to the grip in the direction you want to go is the fastest way to turn the bike and can get you out of a situation.

 

[Asher]

Ah thanks, was unaware of that technique. Sounds very instinctive which is essential for a crash. There's also the opposite technique, which is easy on these - lean in the opposite direction of the turn initially, to create a wider turning radius and go through the turn faster. Easy for a bike when you're 2 feet wide in a 10 foot lane. Drivers do this when making a u turn on narrower streets (veer right a bit and then turn left around, albeit to make the turn in one move and not for higher speed).

I misspoke somewhat. I first noticed this while going down hill, where its much more effortless, and fun . If you're on flat ground, it's still possible but it's a bit more deliberate.

Ha I'm going a little crazy with upgrades - I ordered a rigid fork (salsa cromoto) and pedal straps, will report back on them.

 

[DanInStPete]

Good point on leaning the opposite way. Suppose that is the same idea but would take longer.

What are your thoughts on ordering a rigid fork?

 

[Asher]

Good point on leaning the opposite way. Suppose that is the same idea but would take longer.

What are your thoughts on ordering a rigid fork?

I never use the suspension, and the industry seems to be moving in favor of it (Trek, Stromer, Easy Motion) on fast commuter bikes. Ravi here has spoken highly of it. Ideally you'd pair it with the fattest tire you could fit, say an Almotion 2.15". Or even bigger if the tire is fast. I have a 45mm marathon plus right now but I'll keep that for a while.

Among non electric bikes, it's pretty unanimous that a suspension is silly for riding on pavement.

With the growth of ebikes (nearly doubling in sales percent year over year Q1 2018, I think we're going to see a lot more interest in fast balloon tires.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

@Asher That’s a great safety move to practice and it’s taught in motorcycle classes. It is counter-intuative, but in an emergency you apply pressure to the grip in the direction you need to move: right grip to go right, left grip to go left. So, to go right you actually start the move by turning the bar left. The harder you press the faster the bike is weighted into the direction of the turn.

Most of us do this subconciously, since the only other way to turn is to lean your body in the direction of the turn until the bike leans, which takes longer.

A quick jab to the grip in the direction you want to go is the fastest way to turn the bike and can get you out of a situation.

Counter-steering is the technical term. Absolutely essential for good motorcycle control, and plenty handy for bicycles also.

It has to do with gyroscopic stability. Try to move a gyroscope on one axis, and it will move in a perpendicular axis instead. So if you push on the left grip, which should turn the front wheel to the right (horizontal axis), the bike will lean to the left (vertical axis) and turn left instead of right. This article is a decent description of it. This one which is motorcycle-specific does a good job of explaining it somewhat differently. If you want to know some about the physics, this video is pretty good.

Note: at a slow speed where gyroscopic stability is not enough of a factor, counter-steering doesn't work. Use the handlebars to turn the wheel in the direction you want to go. Most of us already have a sense of what speed this change occurs at, given individual frame geometry etc., whether we've thought about it in quite this way or not.