Those tiny wheels would jar my teeth on the pavement we have here. Perfect city cargo only.
I carry up to 60 lb cargo 30 miles on the following bikes. Cargo includes 6-7 gallons of water, weeks groceries plus weed killer, appliances from the store, a flat truck tire, 10' lengths of lumber or pipe from the home store, about anything I need. Above 70 lb I rent a U-haul or ask someone with a truck for a favor.
The mountain bike with the personally made rear baskets proved to be unsafe. I went over the handlebars 3 times in 4 years when the handlebar whipped sideways when I hit a pavement separator, a piece of tree, a ridge of gravel. I landed on my chin. The last time in November 2017 at 25 mph and only 5 lb cargo, I broke my jaw.
The suggestions on roadbikereview included 1. hold on to the handlebars 2 pay attention, and 3 man up. I don't post there anymore.
I weighed the MTB with about 60 lb cargo in the baskets, got 20 lb on the front scale and 120 lb on the rear scale, I was not on the bike. The baskets weigh about 40 lb with a steel 1/2" perimeter around the top. I suspect that lack of weight on the front tire leads to lack of centering force.
So I bought the cargo bike January 2018, a yubabikes bodaboda. The stretch in the frame behind the seat puts my weight on the front tire. The pannier bags weigh less than my welded up basket, although they are a nuisance to load at the store due to the narrow top. The aluminum perimeter frame allows longer loads like the truck tire or a box of power wheel (shown) to be carried. I had seven gallons of water on the bodaboda this summer several times, with one on the rack in the front. the front rack was also useful for carrying 3 two liter bottles of diet soda this summer, but I've lost that capability now that I put the battery up there.
The direct drive hub motor is behind the panniers in the picture. I've been riding it unpowered for a month, no issues although 8 speeds including 32 tooth would be nice. I bought a 11-32 cluster from competitivecyclist, it came in 11 speeds, the picture was wrong, and the overnight freight was "free" which would have knocked $55 off the value of the $56 sprocket if I returned it (2 boxes from California) . I bought another 8 speed cluster from e-bay, it turned out to be for unthreaded hubs instead of threaded ones. Language on e-bay is not very precise. So I'm making do with a 14-28 7 speed cluster, not suitable for taking 320 lb up 15% grade without electricity.
What I would like, but cannot buy, is a frame with more length seat to handlebar, longer handlebars, and a straight up and down head tube so my feet don't hit the front wheel turning. I'd also like more rake in the front fork to provide more centering force on the front wheel. My Mother's 1946 Firestone bike had this arrangement, with the same 2.25" x 26" tires, and I could ride that bike without hands on the bars through a chughole and it would never falter. I've talked to a custom frame builder, he wants to build me the same bike he built for his wife. Nice, but just like every other bike made now on this planet. I checked the rake versus head angle on a bike frame database, all 26" wheel forks have exactly the same trail or caster. Bleah. I don't want fast steering, I want to not fall off the bike. Gaining strength in my arms is not going to happen, I've torn two shoulder tendons and a biceps tendon already with the feeble muscles I've got.
