Can't get Lynx 6 shifting right

gnarfle

New Member
I couldn't resist the closeout prices from crazy lenny and picked up a BH Lynx 6 electric mountain bike. I'm really regretting this decision at this point...

When I first got it set up and went out for a ride, I found that in the top gear (smallest sprocket) the chain would randomly skip and it was worse under load (like climbing a hill). I messed around with adjusting it with no luck, though I did find if I backed the b screw way out it would fix the problem (though it also caused me to only be able to use 8 / 10 gears). I gave up and took it to a local shop that specializes in mountain bikes, and they did a basic set up and adjustment on the gearing. It did not fix the problem so I took it back in. They were then abel to ride it and see the problem and later suggested the problem was that the chain was too short so they put on a longer chain to allow more wrap around the rear cassette.

Well I picked it up and that fixed it for about 5 miles before it started jumping again. Although this time it was doing it in the 2 smallest cogs and not just the very smallest one. It also felt like it was actually catching the next gear this time rather than just skipping and I rode it around my neighborhood trying to look back and sure enough sometimes it would catch the next gear. So while I was trying to adjust the shifting it again inadvertently shifted and sheared off one of the chain links and broke the chain.

So I took it back to the shop for a 3rd time and this time they told me, oh the chain wasn't e-bike rated so they had to order a special chain. They put this on now and it seems like they're giving up at this point. They basically told me that the issue is the motor is too powerful and there's just not enough teeth on the smallest sprocket to handle it unless they adjust the b screw out so much that you can't use all the gears. So essentially they're calling this a design flaw.

Is this possible? Has anyone else had this problem with their bike? I'm at a loss as to what to do at this point...
 
I couldn't resist the closeout prices from crazy lenny and picked up a BH Lynx 6 electric mountain bike. I'm really regretting this decision at this point...

When I first got it set up and went out for a ride, I found that in the top gear (smallest sprocket) the chain would randomly skip and it was worse under load (like climbing a hill). I messed around with adjusting it with no luck, though I did find if I backed the b screw way out it would fix the problem (though it also caused me to only be able to use 8 / 10 gears). I gave up and took it to a local shop that specializes in mountain bikes, and they did a basic set up and adjustment on the gearing. It did not fix the problem so I took it back in. They were then abel to ride it and see the problem and later suggested the problem was that the chain was too short so they put on a longer chain to allow more wrap around the rear cassette.

Well I picked it up and that fixed it for about 5 miles before it started jumping again. Although this time it was doing it in the 2 smallest cogs and not just the very smallest one. It also felt like it was actually catching the next gear this time rather than just skipping and I rode it around my neighborhood trying to look back and sure enough sometimes it would catch the next gear. So while I was trying to adjust the shifting it again inadvertently shifted and sheared off one of the chain links and broke the chain.

So I took it back to the shop for a 3rd time and this time they told me, oh the chain wasn't e-bike rated so they had to order a special chain. They put this on now and it seems like they're giving up at this point. They basically told me that the issue is the motor is too powerful and there's just not enough teeth on the smallest sprocket to handle it unless they adjust the b screw out so much that you can't use all the gears. So essentially they're calling this a design flaw.

Is this possible? Has anyone else had this problem with their bike? I'm at a loss as to what to do at this point...
What rear derailleur is mounted to this bike? Does the derailleur have a clutch? The clutch type derailleur should help keep tension to minimize slip and slap.

 
There is no clutch, not sure what the specific derailleur model is but it's the Shimano Deore XT 1x10 set.

Though I have an update since I posted this, while the shop last night called and said they were giving up, apparently today they handed it off to a senior tech to try and troubleshoot some more. He said first he tried putting a "goatlink" on it which seems like a slightly longer bracket for the derailleur to give it a bit more clearance and wrap around the sprocket. Seems like from what I can google this is a popular thing to solve this kind of issue on the more modern large sprocket rear cassettes. But he said that did not actually help my bike so at that point he figured it had to be a cassette or hub issue. So he swapped out the SunRace cassette that was on it for a Shimano 11-42 cassette and he said that took care of the problem. He also said that he's seen problems with other SunRace cassettes on other bikes in the past as well. It was brand new and didn't look rounded off or worn so who knows. I took a quick ride on it and it does seem just fine now but I need to go for a longer more involved ride to verify, but I'm hopeful that this indeed takes care of it.
 
There is no clutch, not sure what the specific derailleur model is but it's the Shimano Deore XT 1x10 set.

Though I have an update since I posted this, while the shop last night called and said they were giving up, apparently today they handed it off to a senior tech to try and troubleshoot some more. He said first he tried putting a "goatlink" on it which seems like a slightly longer bracket for the derailleur to give it a bit more clearance and wrap around the sprocket. Seems like from what I can google this is a popular thing to solve this kind of issue on the more modern large sprocket rear cassettes. But he said that did not actually help my bike so at that point he figured it had to be a cassette or hub issue. So he swapped out the SunRace cassette that was on it for a Shimano 11-42 cassette and he said that took care of the problem. He also said that he's seen problems with other SunRace cassettes on other bikes in the past as well. It was brand new and didn't look rounded off or worn so who knows. I took a quick ride on it and it does seem just fine now but I need to go for a longer more involved ride to verify, but I'm hopeful that this indeed takes care of it.

Glad to hear you were able to get this issue sorted... I am not surprised to hear that the higher quality Shimano cassette resolved the problem.
 
My Rebel was doing that exact same thing. I played with the shifter barrel on the shifter to adjust the cable length and it fixed it.
Ya it was very disturbing when it was doing it, it felt like I was going to bust teeth off the cassette.
 
There is no clutch, not sure what the specific derailleur model is but it's the Shimano Deore XT 1x10 set.

Though I have an update since I posted this, while the shop last night called and said they were giving up, apparently today they handed it off to a senior tech to try and troubleshoot some more. He said first he tried putting a "goatlink" on it which seems like a slightly longer bracket for the derailleur to give it a bit more clearance and wrap around the sprocket. Seems like from what I can google this is a popular thing to solve this kind of issue on the more modern large sprocket rear cassettes. But he said that did not actually help my bike so at that point he figured it had to be a cassette or hub issue. So he swapped out the SunRace cassette that was on it for a Shimano 11-42 cassette and he said that took care of the problem. He also said that he's seen problems with other SunRace cassettes on other bikes in the past as well. It was brand new and didn't look rounded off or worn so who knows. I took a quick ride on it and it does seem just fine now but I need to go for a longer more involved ride to verify, but I'm hopeful that this indeed takes care of it.
 
I have same bike /problem from the minute I owned it.. Finally did the same thing /fix but also added a new front sprocket new with two more teeth . Adds a little more speed . I like it better. After a 1000 miles the bike works great like it should
 
You do not mention whether or not the shop checked the alignment of the derailleur hanger. If the hanger is not straight, no amount of adjusting will help.
Nova if you were asking me , yes , I had been back and forth several times to my dealer in Mpls. with no luck. Took it to a Bike shop in Tucson over the winter and $200, non warrantied , and he said my cogs were worn and chain stretched. The bike had the shifting issues from day one so initially the components were new but not working correctly. If you read between the lines here , I'm not much on a bike wrench, but my learning curve has been steep.
 
Finally got my Lynx 5.5 shifting like butter.

1. This probably didn't make any difference but swapped Shimano 11-42 for a 11-40 Sunrace Mx30 cassette.
2. Started from scratch with adjustments.

a.Turned the barrel at the shifter all the way in, then back out two turns.
b. shifted onto the smallest cog and snugged up the cable. Did not pull tight just a little tension on it.

3. Shifted perfect up, but hesitated a tad going second smallest to smallest on the way down. 1/8 of a turn on the limit screw and bam!
Shifting like it should up and down!

I learned one thing, little adjustments go a long way!
 
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