Can Lectric's ONE be converted to kt-lcd3?

[Tom521]

The Lectric ONE is much like a lot of ebikes: the throttle is more like a light switch than a throttle.

I've tried adjusting the settings in the PAS and other areas that could possibly affect the smoothness of the throttle - particularly when starting off from a stop or trying to hold a steady part-throttle speed - without much success.

In searching the internet there are lots of claims about overcoming the smoothness problem by using a KT-LCD3 controller and display. For example there's one on Amazon here:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Electric-Controller-Throttle-Conversion/dp/B0DK5T23F7

So my question is this: can I use this (or something similar) on my Lectric ONE?

Thanks for any experience!

Tom

 

[RunForTheHills]

Yes, but you may need to solder connectors and it would be good to have a multimeter for the project.

 

[harryS]

$149? THey should throw in the PAS sensor so you know you have one that will work.

 

[Tom521]

RunForTheHill,

Does "Yes" mean that it will work on this particular ebike to correct the "light switch" throttle action and make it gradual?

Soldering and using a multimeter is no problem. I'd need concise instructions concerning what wire goes where.

Is there a spot on the 'net that shares those details?

Tom

 

[RunForTheHills]

Yes means it will work on your bike. I haven't used the kit to know about the throttle control, but some people on another forum have complaints about the KT throttle control similar to yours. So it may not fix that. Adding a Cycle Analyst v3 from Grin to your existing controller or the KT controller would give you better control over the throttle. Endless Sphere is a forum for DIY ebikes. The Grin website, ebikes.ca, has a lot technical information for DIY and also where you can buy an CAv3.

MTA: The new controller should come with a pinout diagram for the wiring. You will need to match that to the motor and PAS on your bike. If you get the Grin CAv3, Grin has excellent instructions on their website and also provide email and sometimes phone support. They are located in Canada. The throttle, PAS, and ebrake cutoff switch would connect to the CAv3 and the CAv3 would connect to the throttle input of your controller. Although you could just use it for the throttle and leave the Ebrake and PAS on the controller.

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html

 

[Tom521]

[B]RunForTheHi[/B]ll,​

Thank you! I've signed up and asked my question there. Any more activity, I'll add a note here.

Tom

 

[harryS]

I think my Kt controllers 17-25 amps and 36 -52 volt batteries have good throttle modulation with thumb throttles. The LCD3 is kind of chunky for a display, but the numbers are easy to read and it show watts and ambient temperature inside the case/
.
I am just surprised by the pricing. I've not bought one since 2024. I would pay about $35-38 to a China vendor for an LCD3, and $30-35 for a 20A controller. Throw in a $5 PAS sensor and $8 throttle. Looks like shipped prices have doubled.

 

[Tom521]

Got a reply from ebikes.ca giving an answer "yes, but..."

Using their products, what I'm asking can be done, but is very involved.

They provided a link to the first 15 minutes of this video to illustrate the level of difficulty:

Sigh...

Not sure I want it that much.

I intend to keep looking. Maybe there's another approach?

Tom

 

[RunForTheHills]

Got a reply from ebikes.ca giving an answer "yes, but..."

Using their products, what I'm asking can be done, but is very involved.

They provided a link to the first 15 minutes of this video to illustrate the level of difficulty:

Sigh...

Not sure I want it that much.

I intend to keep looking. Maybe there's another approach?

Tom

That video is a little dated, but gives you an idea of what would be involved in replacing the controller. I am not sure what you asked Grin for, but it should be possible to install a CAv3 with your existing controller and use it to adjust the output ramp on the throttle signal. So the throttle would plug into the CAv3 and the CAv3 would plug into the throttle input of your controller. You would also need to provide batter power to the CAv3. See the throttle settings in the manual: https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html, so it doesn't have to be that hard.

Also, Grin now sells a Super Harness kit that works with their Baserunner and Phaserunner controllers without the CAv3 and uses a more modern color display that they sell. It also uses the more common HiGo (Julet) connectors to the ebrake, throttle, and PAS. I recently installed one with the Phaserunner v6 controller and it wasn't that hard at all. Since I had a Grin GMAC motor and a Sempu torque sensor from Grin and I bought a new throttle and ebrake switch from them, the only soldering I had to do were for the lights and horn. You can even get lights from Grin that will just plug into the kit. Although I am still having an issue with the Sempu torque sensor (probably a setting on the controller). I will work on it again when I get back up north next weekend.
https://ebikes.ca/ebike-parts/control-stuff/superharness/bundle-superharness-displ.html

 

[Tom521]

RunForTheHills,

Thank you once again!

I have passed your suggestion back to GRIN in the form of a question. I'll let you know what they respond.

Tom

 

[Tom521]

RunForTheHills,

Bullseye!

Here's GRIN's reply:

I posted the video link you provided below on forums.electricbikereview.com and one of the other members said this: " the throttle would plug into the CAv3 and the CAv3 would plug into the throttle input of your controller"

He is entirely correct

And further: "also need to provide battery power to the CAv3"

That is done easily via the Stand Alone cycle analyst shunt which is wired inline between the battery and the motor controller

and when I asked,

Is it true this might do what I need? If so, it sounds more practical.

https://ebikes.ca/ebike-parts/control-stuff/cycle-analysts/ca-sa.html

Is where you would get the stand alone CA. The green wire in the unterminated pigtail is the throttle output signal that has to go to the throttle input of your controller's main wire harness. But figuring out the wiring of your existing motor controller's signal line and which is the throttle input etc. is all on your end.

So it looks like if I can correctly identify the throttle input to the CA and correctly wire its output to the Lectric controller, plus locate a place to tap the CA shunt into the power input to go to the CA, I should be in high cotton!

The present throttle has the 3 wire connector (julet) so it sounds like I need to figure out which wire I need to run through the CA and back to the Lectric controller.

The other thing I need to figure out is where to obtain a power connection for the CA.

Sounds simple. It also seems I should be very sure about what goes to what to avoid letting the magic puff of smoke out

Thank you again,

Tom

 

[RunForTheHills]

If you buy some 3 pin Julet pigtails from Amazon, you won't even have to cut your existing wires for the throttle connection. Just crimp the appropriate JST connectors on the Julet pigtails and use them to connect the CAv3 inline with the throttle. Your display probably has battery power on one of the pins for it or, worst case, your battery is external and not embedded in the frame, so you can tap into the battery wire there. You can probably get away with a crimp on vampire connector there and no soldering.

https://www.amazon.com/Laisomeke-Wa...54301&sprefix=3+pin+julet,aps,263&sr=8-3&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTKD7P4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_14

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4L8QMW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_14&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-C...ix=vampire+wire+connector,aps,180&sr=8-7&th=1

 

[RunForTheHills]

If you buy some 3 pin Julet pigtails from Amazon, you won't even have to cut your existing wires for the throttle connection. Just crimp the appropriate JST connectors on the Julet pigtails and use them to connect the CAv3 inline with the throttle. Your display probably has battery power on one of the pins for it or, worst case, your battery is external and not embedded in the frame, so you can tap into the battery wire there. You can probably get away with a crimp on vampire connector there and no soldering.

https://www.amazon.com/Laisomeke-Waterproof-Electric-Extension-Connector/dp/B0CHJ7DTR7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2M1UNA0I32US5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qCa4Ui6pF0WN7b-z-orGdZHb_yIXhZkGDi_oi46qi-9r9_19PPVDqFbJkqwHpLXU7SwF7Zz4AEbG43ABVRo-U3yuoxzAjmPcm__7Eum3tATxs0GizvUDUG3wLPPKcZ5g0e4_U5M-iUjX9810TfCJbPb4BeAGTetj7HssK3uc873M3QryZjYCbvoGG2fTvRhFXnB-ENM7iJWLVVSPZsVwmsWBDIv1f-JQ9L9K11A0AZA.JMdHZq3w7YqJn4FX7fPJL4_QGybI4U84ipu9V3ivrU8&dib_tag=se&keywords=3+pin+julet&qid=1772554301&sprefix=3+pin+julet,aps,263&sr=8-3&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTKD7P4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_14

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4L8QMW?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_14&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Connectors-Electrical-Connector-22-18AWG/dp/B09539VNBK/ref=sr_1_7?crid=7L00CM96QO1S&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dxbrQJikjO_gtHjhAUmD1p3rU9Qu_ArMDTqNPQqiQpqBMdOXgoRPwQgbuWf7-gwvuUk4pZLIKBtIKQTzBPkPbNgJRZdjJ4foRT84jLcNS5qWjekEVxooERY2JK-SDFlPGPo_5ffPEFgbR-CD_lLl-AA1echTz566rH2B9lsoZerLH5k-aU3LNTwZNI9QK1KNNfgzK-gq06C2uU-CfrBNDqAGpKBb6OiEp_75slPMqZ4.Azr6U1KpbUQxLpb3eZ7S_d4W7ZaCAlHTvyj0HDMlGu8&dib_tag=se&keywords=vampire+wire+connector&qid=1772554718&sprefix=vampire+wire+connector,aps,180&sr=8-7&th=1

Nevermind the JST connectors. I see the shunt takes care of that for you. And if your battery uses an XT60, XT90, or Anderson connector you can order the shunt already prewired for that.

https://ebikes.ca/shunt-ca3.html

 

[Tom521]

RunForTheHills,

Thank you again. Everything is ordered except for trying to figure out the power connection. I intend to solder and shrinkwrap. Makes me feel better about the connections long-term.

Tom

 

[RunForTheHills]

RunForTheHills,

Thank you again. Everything is ordered except for trying to figure out the power connection. I intend to solder and shrinkwrap. Makes me feel better about the connections long-term.

Tom

That is better. The JST connectors are not waterproof, but you can probably put some shrinkwrap over them.

 

[Tom521]

RunForTheHills,

I meant solder/shrinkwrap for the Julet connectors. Still haven't figured out where to tap into the system for power. The screen has a USB port but I'm fairly certain that's not it

Still working on that,

Tom