Buying first electric bike for woman, hilly area... help please

[firstthymer]

Hi everyone!

I'm looking at buying my first electric bike and would really appreciate some advice. I have cycled for fun and for commuting in the past before. I have a Ridgeback velocity 2014 21" low frame which I love, my favourite bike ever. The riding position is great. The problem now is that I have some health issues which means I packed the weight on and now struggle with hills... and live in an area with many steep, long hills. I'm also unfit and need to lose weight pretty desperately so getting back to cycling would be great. 5ft 11"/178cm tall, 240lbs/108kg.

So, my bike wishlist -
-Lots of power to get me up the steep hills without having to pedal very hard or stop (my main reason for wanting an electric bike)
-Low frame so I can ride in a skirt without flashing people, ha
-A large frame like the one on the ridgeback, since it's way more comfy and fun riding stretched out than sitting up
-Being able to safely ride at my weight and ideally being able to carry some heavy luggage with me
-Would be nice to have front suspension, mudguards, rack, lights, etc and the bike being able to handle going off smooth roads but definitely not priority and I don't want a mountain bike as I hate the riding position.
-Good quality components that last a long time as this is a big investment for me
-Price is definitely a factor too... I can't believe how expensive ebikes are! My old bike cost £200 and I can buy a conversion kit for under £500... If I thought I could pull it off, I'd convert my old one.

I've already looked at so many bikes.. my head is spinning. Would anyone have any recommendations, or just general advice. For example, is it worth forking out the extra cash for a bike with one of the best motors... I've done a bit of research and it seems the higher Nm ones are best for hills? I've found quite a few with 85Nm torque but these are more expensive than the 50Nm torque ones, maybe an extra 1/3 on top. Would it be worth it in real terms?

Another thing I wondered is that there may be a winter 'sale season' for bikes in the UK so maybe I would be better off waiting for that?

Thanks for reading!

 

[retiredNH]

there has been many threads about choosing bikes in the past few months. Have you read any of them?
You have a variety of decisions to make, including cost, mid vs hub drive and frame fit. The last item you can only address by test rides.

 

[retiredNH]

I thought the OP's description / criteria were specific enough.
OP currently rides this bike:

Yes, her needs were. So what do you recommend? Do you really want to re-hash the hundreds of responses to similar requests over the past year? Then go to it...

 

[firstthymer]

there has been many threads about choosing bikes in the past few months. Have you read any of them?
You have a variety of decisions to make, including cost, mid vs hub drive and frame fit. The last item you can only address by test rides.

Yes, I've been reading lots over the past weeks, that's how I found this place. Maybe the problem is that I haven't tested any of the bikes, motors etc and so I just don't know what the real difference would be between them. I've only ridden an electric bike once, actually, years ago. It probably wasn't a very good one and I didn't really see the point in them back then when I could easily put the pedal to the metal, so to speak.

Anyway I was hoping that someone would chime in and say 'Oh wow, you wouldn't believe the difference between the Bosch performance CX motor and the active line... it's definitely worth the £1000 extra cost' or the opposite. I don't want to buy something I would regret and will be buying it online so no test rides.

Here are 2 bikes I'm considering... quite a big price difference and I'm not sure it's worth it for me. Then again, if the cheaper one is no good for the mini mountains around here, there's not much reason for me to buy it!

Smart Electric City Bike 920 E Connect LF - White

Smart Electric City Bike 920 E Connect LF - White null This smart e-bike has a powerful mid-drive motor to help you carry your belongings around town on day-to-day journeys.

www.decathlon.co.uk

Haibike | Trekking 9 LOW | Comfortable 27.5

With the Trekking 9 LOW, getting on and off is particularly quick & safe. This eBike is the perfect companion for everyday rides with top comfort.

www.haibike.com

 

[firstthymer]

So would you want to convert your bike or not? sorry it was a bit unclear.. sounds like you really like your current bike and price is a factor too.

I'm not sure.. I'd give it a go if it would work well and I could actually do it, lol. I did the basics to fix my bike but I'm no mechanic.

 

[PatriciaK]

You really need to ride some bikes. Pictures, stats and specs on paper are one thing - how it feels to you while actually riding is often something quite different...

 

[indianajo]

The smart electric city bike doesn't list tire size, and the haibike with 27.5x2.4' tires says maximum total weight is 130g kg or 286 lb. You plus bike is probably over that limit.
Both those bikes with the cruiser style seating put a lot of weight on the back tire, and the smart electric city bike loads the battery back there, also. The front tire is lightly loaded in that situation. You also say

Being able to safely ride at my weight and ideally being able to carry some heavy luggage with me

.
In that case it is highly advantageous to buy a bike that can load the luggage on the front wheel without steering it, or puts the rider's weight primarily on the front wheel so the luggage loads up the back. Bikes with bolt attachments to the frame on the front for a basket are rare. Bikes that move the rider's weight to the front are called stretch frame cargo bikes. You see mine in the avatar left. With 80 lb groceries or supplies, full tool kit, spare tubes & a tire, I carry up to 330 lb gross up numerous hills in my county. I have 26"x2.1" tires (max) but that bike is for small people and no longer for sale. The replacement has a wimpy shimano motor.
Hill climbing ability includes 3 numbers. Starting torque, power, cooling capacity. Lets look at the 50 NM brose motor bike Smart Electric City. Torque*NMtoftlbconverter*sprocketratio/wheelradius=starting force. If the smart electric city bike has 26"x2.1" tires, then radius=1.1 ft . I don't see a huge rear sprocket in the picture so assume 28 tooth rear sprocket. 46 tooth drive 28 tooth driven=.60 sprocket ratio for torque. 50nm*.737*.60/1.1'=20.1 lb force at the tire. If I assume the electric city bike weighs 70 lb, the gross weight is 310 lb. So it could start 6% grades without your input, which is pretty low. Fine for cities.
The Haibike has a 51 tooth rear sprocket, which is a considerable advantage, but taller tires. Sprocket ratio is 46:51 1.11, wheel radius is ~1.2'. 85nm*.737*1.11/1.2= 58 lb. So it can start 310 lb on a 18.7% grade without help which is extremely steep. Note replacement bosch batteries if one is stolen are >$1000.
I measure the % of a grade with a level and a ruler. Rise/lengthoflevel*100 is percent grade. So one of my grades rises 7/8" on a 6" level or 14.6% .
Both your choices are mid-drives which tend to cool better than geared hub motors, my favorite type of bike. However in UK there are not too many 1000' rises you might climb in an hour and burn up a hub motor.
Two bikes you might look at are the blix packa and the surface604 werk . The blix packa is a stretch frame bike that puts your weight on the front tire and the cargo on the rear. It has a 400 lb limit 750 w motor (in US) and 24" tires so it can climb with a geared hub motor. Generic (cheap) battery. https://blixbike.com/collections/all-bikes/products/packa-electric-cargo-bike The surface604 werk has a front mount for a basket and a 285 lb limit. 500 w motor in US https://surface604bikes.com/products/2022-werk
The premium stretch frame cargo bike sold in Europe is the Reiss & Mueller, but they are very expensive. Ubiquitous are the Pedego Stretch which has low known problems count, and Radwagon4 which has a high known problem count and hard to buy 22" tires. If there are any potholes you might encounter I do not recommend 20" tire cargo bikes like the Tern HSD or the Eunorau.
I converted my pictured yuba bodaboda bike with a 1300 W front geared hub motor, but it has a steel front fork. Bikes with aluminum or carbon fiber front forks are not suitable for front hub motors. I like mine, it allows me to maintain the 8 speed rear sprocket which gives me 24 ratios from 32:32 to 52:11. You see my battery in white hung off the front basket mount in the frame.

 

[TrevorB]

The Haibike is excellent spec level great value for money compared to its direct competitors, eg Moustache Xroad, Gazelle and Specialized Vado 4.0. I'd wouldn't worry to much about weight limit, that 130kg which is you and bike allows for rough riding and odd big bump, when carry heavy cargo stick to smooth surfaces and take it easy. Hopefully you will lose enough weight that won't be issue in time.

With regular riding ebike well increase your fitness, help you sleep better and improve your mental well being. Unless you are doing big rides on daily basis, bike alone won't be enough to lose weight going need to also watch that calorie intake. Exercise wise ebiking is equivalent to brisk walking but lot more fun and interesting as you can explore lot further a field.
With 625wh battery can budget on 60-90km range depending terrain and assist levels you use. Start with 30-40km rides and see how you go.

 

[TrevorB]

There is significant difference in climbing performance between 85nm and 50nm motors. With limited gear range on 50nm bike it would struggle on steep hills with heavier unfit rider. The Haibike on other hand has more gearing than you will ever need, with 85nm motor
you will rarely need 2nd let alone 1st but its nice to know they are there if you need them.

 

[TrevorB]

Few quality low step ebikes on this webpage that slight lower spec but lot cheaper than Haibike.

Cube Supreme Sport Hybrid Pro 625 Low Step Through Hybrid Electric Bike in Red/Black

Look for motors 65-90nm, gearing 11-42t, 11-46t or 10-50t . The bigger that last number (50t) lower (easier) 1st gear is. The small number 10 or 11 is top gear and you won't be using it unless going well over 25kmhr downhill. I've 65nm with 11-42t and should handle any hill you will likely to climb with ease.

 

[Nomad]

As far as power it sounds like you should stick to a full powered ebike for your wants and needs. weather it's a 70nm or 85nm or so on isn't going to be a huge factor . I can't stress enough how important it is that you test ride and take on the hills that you're going to be riding to get the right bike for you!

 

[Viking1]

Have you looked at the Gazelle Arroyo C7 HMB Elite?
A bit pricey, but checks all of your boxes and has the low maintenance Nexus 7 speed hub transmission and an enclosed chain as well. Hydraulic brakes, Bosch motor, and front and rear suspension.

 

[dodgeman]

Wish I knew more about other brands but Trek is what I know. I own a Verve +3 which has a 50 nm torque rating. From what you describe you want I’d say you need a stronger bike motor. I’d shoot for that 85 nm torque number which is an Allant in the Trek line. They aren’t cheap, in the $4500 US dollar range. If you think you will stick with it I’d spend the money for a good one if it’s a Trek or other brand.

 

[retiredNH]

I want to emphasize again that there's no substitute for a test ride for a newbie. Renting is one way to get your feet wet, so to speak.

Since the OP is an experienced bike rider, she will probably like a bike with a torque sensor best, given the more natural peddling experience, but again, test ride to feel the difference.

Torque? Beware that there's a lot of mystique about torque - not all measurements are the same. Power (watts for the motor) is even worse. Drive train makes a difference among different bikes and trim lines.

When I bought my Trek Allant+ 8s, in March of 2021, there were few bikes even available, but what sealed the deal for me was a 30 day refund policy.
That meant essentially unlimited test rides over that month! It not only sealed the deal, it led to the purchase of one for spouse a month later.

 

[firstthymer]

The smart electric city bike doesn't list tire size, and the haibike with 27.5x2.4' tires says maximum total weight is 130g kg or 286 lb. You plus bike is probably over that limit.
Both those bikes with the cruiser style seating put a lot of weight on the back tire, and the smart electric city bike loads the battery back there, also. The front tire is lightly loaded in that situation. You also say

.
In that case it is highly advantageous to buy a bike that can load the luggage on the front wheel without steering it, or puts the rider's weight primarily on the front wheel so the luggage loads up the back. Bikes with bolt attachments to the frame on the front for a basket are rare. Bikes that move the rider's weight to the front are called stretch frame cargo bikes. You see mine in the avatar left. With 80 lb groceries or supplies, full tool kit, spare tubes & a tire, I carry up to 330 lb gross up numerous hills in my county. I have 26"x2.1" tires (max) but that bike is for small people and no longer for sale. The replacement has a wimpy shimano motor.
Hill climbing ability includes 3 numbers. Starting torque, power, cooling capacity. Lets look at the 50 NM brose motor bike Smart Electric City. Torque*NMtoftlbconverter*sprocketratio/wheelradius=starting force. If the smart electric city bike has 26"x2.1" tires, then radius=1.1 ft . I don't see a huge rear sprocket in the picture so assume 28 tooth rear sprocket. 46 tooth drive 28 tooth driven=.60 sprocket ratio for torque. 50nm*.737*.60/1.1'=20.1 lb force at the tire. If I assume the electric city bike weighs 70 lb, the gross weight is 310 lb. So it could start 6% grades without your input, which is pretty low. Fine for cities.
The Haibike has a 51 tooth rear sprocket, which is a considerable advantage, but taller tires. Sprocket ratio is 46:51 1.11, wheel radius is ~1.2'. 85nm*.737*1.11/1.2= 58 lb. So it can start 310 lb on a 18.7% grade without help which is extremely steep. Note replacement bosch batteries if one is stolen are >$1000.
I measure the % of a grade with a level and a ruler. Rise/lengthoflevel*100 is percent grade. So one of my grades rises 7/8" on a 6" level or 14.6% .
Both your choices are mid-drives which tend to cool better than geared hub motors, my favorite type of bike. However in UK there are not too many 1000' rises you might climb in an hour and burn up a hub motor.
Two bikes you might look at are the blix packa and the surface604 werk . The blix packa is a stretch frame bike that puts your weight on the front tire and the cargo on the rear. It has a 400 lb limit 750 w motor (in US) and 24" tires so it can climb with a geared hub motor. Generic (cheap) battery. https://blixbike.com/collections/all-bikes/products/packa-electric-cargo-bike The surface604 werk has a front mount for a basket and a 285 lb limit. 500 w motor in US https://surface604bikes.com/products/2022-werk
The premium stretch frame cargo bike sold in Europe is the Reiss & Mueller, but they are very expensive. Ubiquitous are the Pedego Stretch which has low known problems count, and Radwagon4 which has a high known problem count and hard to buy 22" tires. If there are any potholes you might encounter I do not recommend 20" tire cargo bikes like the Tern HSD or the Eunorau.
I converted my pictured yuba bodaboda bike with a 1300 W front geared hub motor, but it has a steel front fork. Bikes with aluminum or carbon fiber front forks are not suitable for front hub motors. I like mine, it allows me to maintain the 8 speed rear sprocket which gives me 24 ratios from 32:32 to 52:11. You see my battery in white hung off the front basket mount in the frame.

Thanks for the info! I'm sure some of it went over my head but you've given me a whole other category of bike to consider.

Your bike looks amazing! That's just the kind of thing I want. I used to live in Montreal, which is a very bike-friendly city. Cycling was almost my only method of transportation and I had a 2nd hand DIY, massive high frame Giant mountain bike to hybrid conversion that was an absolute workhorse and such a fun ride. I loaded it up with luggage, even got a little trailer and it carried furniture from Ikea and all sorts. Also went camping with it. Something like that but with a low frame and ability to switch on the juice for going up hills would be ideal. Not sure how much I emphasized the hills around here but I googled and some are 20% in places, 16% over average. The kind I wouldn't even want to walk up and unfortunately one massive hill is unavoidable on my main route home. I probably wouldnt be going very far to start with, but maybe eventually would be going to the national park which would be 10-20 miles of hills or so each way.

I can't get the surface604 werk here in the UK but have found a Blix packa for a reasonable price - around £1600. I'm not sure about it because of the small wheels... I haven't ridden a bike with smaller than 26" wheels since I was about 10 lol. Does it feel much different to a bigger wheel when riding? I'm assuming I couldn't go as fast? Are they still fun to ride? I'd probably get that and keep my other one for fun, but I only have the space to store 1 bike, so it has to be a jack of all trades.

My other question is about the maintenance and life of these bikes/motors. How long can I expect them to last? I've come across some stuff suggesting that the whole motor has to be replaced when anything breaks, and that they only have a 2 year warranty? I hadn't even thought of cooling, burning out the motor etc. You've given me lots to think about!

 

[J.R.]

Hi everyone!

I'm looking at buying my first electric bike and would really appreciate some advice. I have cycled for fun and for commuting in the past before. I have a Ridgeback velocity 2014 21" low frame which I love, my favourite bike ever. The riding position is great. The problem now is that I have some health issues which means I packed the weight on and now struggle with hills... and live in an area with many steep, long hills. I'm also unfit and need to lose weight pretty desperately so getting back to cycling would be great. 5ft 11"/178cm tall, 240lbs/108kg.

So, my bike wishlist -
-Lots of power to get me up the steep hills without having to pedal very hard or stop (my main reason for wanting an electric bike)
-Low frame so I can ride in a skirt without flashing people, ha
-A large frame like the one on the ridgeback, since it's way more comfy and fun riding stretched out than sitting up
-Being able to safely ride at my weight and ideally being able to carry some heavy luggage with me
-Would be nice to have front suspension, mudguards, rack, lights, etc and the bike being able to handle going off smooth roads but definitely not priority and I don't want a mountain bike as I hate the riding position.
-Good quality components that last a long time as this is a big investment for me
-Price is definitely a factor too... I can't believe how expensive ebikes are! My old bike cost £200 and I can buy a conversion kit for under £500... If I thought I could pull it off, I'd convert my old one.

I've already looked at so many bikes.. my head is spinning. Would anyone have any recommendations, or just general advice. For example, is it worth forking out the extra cash for a bike with one of the best motors... I've done a bit of research and it seems the higher Nm ones are best for hills? I've found quite a few with 85Nm torque but these are more expensive than the 50Nm torque ones, maybe an extra 1/3 on top. Would it be worth it in real terms?

Another thing I wondered is that there may be a winter 'sale season' for bikes in the UK so maybe I would be better off waiting for that?

Thanks for reading!

With regard to budget, the UK has some schemes like 'cycle to work' that can help pay for a new ebike. Might be worth looking into. Best of luck!

 

[firstthymer]

I want to emphasize again that there's no substitute for a test ride for a newbie. Renting is one way to get your feet wet, so to speak.

Since the OP is an experienced bike rider, she will probably like a bike with a torque sensor best, given the more natural peddling experience, but again, test ride to feel the difference.

Torque? Beware that there's a lot of mystique about torque - not all measurements are the same. Power (watts for the motor) is even worse. Drive train makes a difference among different bikes and trim lines.

When I bought my Trek Allant+ 8s, in March of 2021, there were few bikes even available, but what sealed the deal for me was a 30 day refund policy.
That meant essentially unlimited test rides over that month! It not only sealed the deal, it led to the purchase of one for spouse a month later.

Oh, that's great, I've been looking at the Aliant+ bikes. I'd guess you're happy with yours then?! I always wanted a Trek bike for some reason... I remember looking at them last time I was looking at buying a bike. I got a good deal on my Ridgeback, which is part of the reason why I chose it (also sight unseen over the internet). I understand what you (and others) are saying about the test ride and undoubtably you're right. It would just be a lot of trouble and I don't have anywhere to store an extra bike temporarily, don't want to go into bike shops and get the hard sell, etc.

 

[indianajo]

I have found a Blix packa for a reasonable price - around £1600. I'm not sure about it because of the small wheels... I haven't ridden a bike with smaller than 26" wheels since I was about 10 lol. Does it feel much different to a bigger wheel when riding? I'm assuming I couldn't go as fast? Are they still fun to ride?

My other question is about the maintenance and life of these bikes/motors. How long can I expect them to last? I've come across some stuff suggesting that the whole motor has to be replaced when anything breaks, and that they only have a 2 year warranty? I hadn't even thought of cooling, burning out the motor etc.

The 24" on the hub motor bikes is so they have more torque to carry cargo up hills. I wouldn't ride a 20" bike due to potholes but a 24" should not jolt so much as the smaller ones. Lower cargo means you have less trouble balancing it while loading stopped. Notice the 2 legged stand on Packa. I tend to brace my frame against the cart rack at the store while loading up the heavy liquids (soda, milk, weed killer, diesel fuel)
Yes, hub motors wear out. My first one cost $221 with controller throttle PAS sensor brake handles, and wore out the plastic gears in ~4500 miles. Keep the spare in the closet, I did & was back powered in 2 days. Worn out hub motor pedaled fine 40 miles, no drag. If you buy the new motor installed in a wheel (ebay) and the connectors match you can change it out in 2 hours. Some torque arm adjustments with a drill & a file.
I'm buying used bafang geared hub motors from the scrapped uber rental fleet for $36 now. Wimpy little things. 2nd motor was a Mac12t with extra torque at low speeds due to the extra windings, $730. Loved that thing on the hills but the rain burnt the pins off into the harness in the rain 7/14/21. Don't buy an ASI controller unless you ride it in the desert, the pins are too close together for rain. ~3000 miles. Mac12t used 2/3 the electricity of the 1300 w ebikeling motor I had at first.
Note in UK there is a watt limit lower than US. Parliament doesn't want anybody buying an electric bike that doesn't live in flat Middlesex. Look at the motor spec from your website, I can't see the UK model specs. UK geared hub motor might not be able to conquer a 20% grade alone, or you might have to put significant energy in pedaling. You could always change the rear sprocket to a bigger one to get more torque from your legs uphill. Before covid19 (151 days) I could pedal me +80 lb ag supplies up a 100' 15% grade by myself without the motor. Electricity fails sometimes due to rain on the throttle.
The yubabike replacement for my bike is the combi with a shimano mid drive, but it has a steel frame instead of aluminum like my bodaboda. Also 24" tires. My yubabike arrived perfect from CA and has great shifters, cables, spokes wheels, non-stretch unlike some cheaper bikes. My bodaboda sprocket is 8 speed shimano & has been no trouble in 10000 miles. The 7 speed shimano rear sprocket axle used on most bikes the race comes unscrewed and drops the balls on the road. Fortunately was only a 3 mile walk pushing the Pacific Quantum bike. I ride 27 miles from home weekly. Bodabda did wear out the front shifter (SRAM) @8000 miles. Chain lasted 5000 miles, a total no mid-drive bike can match. Shimano steps on combi doesn't drag the motor power off like the lower 3 bosch models. There is a giant momentum cargo bike that has a yamaha mid drive that also doesn't drag the motor with the power turned off.
Good luck on the test rides. Only dealer closer to me than 165 miles is pedego, and he doesn't allow rides far enough to reach any steep hills. Most people on this forum think we all live in cities of 6 million pop.
As far as fun, I look at the scenery off my bike. Size of wheel doesn't matter to pedaling if you have high enough gears. 52:11 sprockets could carry me 30 mph if I could push pedal down (I can't except downhill).

 

[tomjasz]

The 24" on the hub motor bikes is so they have more torque to carry cargo up hills. I wouldn't ride a 20" bike due to potholes but a 24" should not jolt so much as the smaller ones. Lower cargo means you have less trouble balancing it while loading stopped. Notice the 2 legged stand on Packa. I tend to brace my frame against the cart rack at the store while loading up the heavy liquids (soda, milk, weed killer, diesel fuel)
Yes, hub motors wear out. My first one cost $221 with controller throttle PAS sensor brake handles, and wore out the plastic gears in ~4500 miles. Keep the spare in the closet, I did & was back powered in 2 days. Worn out hub motor pedaled fine 40 miles, no drag. If you buy the new motor installed in a wheel (ebay) and the connectors match you can change it out in 2 hours. Some torque arm adjustments with a drill & a file.
I'm buying used bafang geared hub motors from the scrapped uber rental fleet for $36 now. Wimpy little things. 2nd motor was a Mac12t with extra torque at low speeds due to the extra windings, $730. Loved that thing on the hills but the rain burnt the pins off into the harness in the rain 7/14/21. Don't buy an ASI controller unless you ride it in the desert, the pins are too close together for rain. ~3000 miles. Mac12t used 2/3 the electricity of the 1300 w ebikeling motor I had at first.
Note in UK there is a watt limit lower than US. Parliament doesn't want anybody buying an electric bike that doesn't live in flat Middlesex. Look at the motor spec from your website, I can't see the UK model specs. UK geared hub motor might not be able to conquer a 20% grade alone, or you might have to put significant energy in pedaling. You could always change the rear sprocket to a bigger one to get more torque from your legs uphill. Before covid19 (151 days) I could pedal me +80 lb ag supplies up a 100' 15% grade by myself without the motor. Electricity fails sometimes due to rain on the throttle.
The yubabike replacement for my bike is the combi with a shimano mid drive, but it has a steel frame instead of aluminum like my bodaboda. Also 24" tires. My yubabike arrived perfect from CA and has great shifters, cables, spokes wheels, non-stretch unlike some cheaper bikes. My bodaboda sprocket is 8 speed shimano & has been no trouble in 10000 miles. The 7 speed shimano rear sprocket axle used on most bikes the race comes unscrewed and drops the balls on the road. Fortunately was only a 3 mile walk pushing the Pacific Quantum bike. I ride 27 miles from home weekly. Bodabda did wear out the front shifter (SRAM) @8000 miles. Chain lasted 5000 miles, a total no mid-drive bike can match. Shimano steps on combi doesn't drag the motor power off like the lower 3 bosch models. There is a giant momentum cargo bike that has a yamaha mid drive that also doesn't drag the motor with the power turned off.
Good luck on the test rides. Only dealer closer to me than 165 miles is pedego, and he doesn't allow rides far enough to reach any steep hills. Most people on this forum think we all live in cities of 6 million pop.
As far as fun, I look at the scenery off my bike. Horses, goats, dogs, squirrels, rabbits, ground hogs, weasels, coyotes, foxes, bluebirds, yellow birds, quail, prairie chickens, ducks, geese, neighbor's tractors or lawn ornaments, harvesters this time of year, grain trucks. Size of wheel doesn't matter to pedaling if you have high enough gears. 52:11 could carry me 30 mph if I could push pedal down (I can't except downhill).

OFFS, 250W mid drives galore in the UK that will run up any hill.

 

[TrevorB]

A few test rides of various motor types (hub vs middrive), power levels and frame styles should help decide what you want in ebike.

Buying a bike with this experience maybe costly exercise especially if it won't do what you want and ends up sitting in garge.