Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
As the original poster, you can edit the title. This would benefit future searches for posts with "hub drive" in the title.
Breaking rear spokes on gun drive
- Thread starter Broncobusted
- Start date
As the original poster, you can edit the title. This would benefit future searches for posts with "hub drive" in the title.
I've done the task of replacing each spoke, one at a time to match them up the same. Then I had a good wheel guy do the truing. This was a common bmx wheel though. No dishing or any other fancy stuff. I imagine a hub drive with a cassette would be harder. But that is a option (I guess).
zbikeman
Member
- Region
- USA
I went to bike mechanic school in 2009 to get my certification. My thoughts.
Machine-built wheels are generally inferior to their handbuilt counterparts, not because of any inherent differences, but in the amount of time the wheel is built. Failing to pre-stress metal components is key.
We were taught to bring spokes up to some tension, leave them a few minutes, then detension them fully, and only then begin the dish / true / tension loop until finished.
We were pre-stressing all components first and then taking our time during the build. This allows the metal to settle in easier - less "muscle memory" - and maintain a more constant tension than anything built in a hurry.
I can't ever remember having to retrue a set of wheels I built. Not even a little, and I was quite fastidious about truing spec - within 0.5mm lateral and 1mm vertical. So every wheel I built stayed true for the rest of its life.
Machine-built wheels are generally inferior to their handbuilt counterparts, not because of any inherent differences, but in the amount of time the wheel is built. Failing to pre-stress metal components is key.
We were taught to bring spokes up to some tension, leave them a few minutes, then detension them fully, and only then begin the dish / true / tension loop until finished.
We were pre-stressing all components first and then taking our time during the build. This allows the metal to settle in easier - less "muscle memory" - and maintain a more constant tension than anything built in a hurry.
I can't ever remember having to retrue a set of wheels I built. Not even a little, and I was quite fastidious about truing spec - within 0.5mm lateral and 1mm vertical. So every wheel I built stayed true for the rest of its life.
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6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
I've had spoke trouble on the last four Trek conventional bikes I've owned. I'm 250 and sometimes carry 50+ pounds of gear. I also ride rough trails and have broken 12 gauge spokes on 36 hole rims. All the bikes had a 300# rating, but I managed to break spokes anyway.
When e-bike shopping, I wanted a hub drive, but was concerned about the spoke issue and the difficulty of repair. To eliminate the problem, I chose bikes with mag wheels rated at 450#. I've had no problems in 8 years now.
I realize these are extreme conditions and not something the average rider needs to consider, but mag wheels have been a problem solver for me. Unfortunately, this limits the selection of bikes, since only a few have mag options. Conversions are possible but difficult for hub drives since the rear mag needs an integrated motor. YMMV.
When e-bike shopping, I wanted a hub drive, but was concerned about the spoke issue and the difficulty of repair. To eliminate the problem, I chose bikes with mag wheels rated at 450#. I've had no problems in 8 years now.
I realize these are extreme conditions and not something the average rider needs to consider, but mag wheels have been a problem solver for me. Unfortunately, this limits the selection of bikes, since only a few have mag options. Conversions are possible but difficult for hub drives since the rear mag needs an integrated motor. YMMV.
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I learned to build bicycle wheels when I worked at Jimmy Yee's Bike Shop on Queensbury Street in Boston. I built racing wheels for myself, friends, and teammates.
Agreed on machine built wheels. They are a compromise for the masses, and usually work out fine for most riders that use them within their limits, which are, of course, rarely posted. As for staying in true, then and now, pre-stressing and hand building are a factor, especially now. Back then, I was building tubular wheels with butted spokes for light weight, and straight spokes for strength. Those rims were narrow and light. High spoke counts were the norm. Nowadays, tubulars are specialty wheels. Clinchers advanced to the norm, with the bleeding edge being hookless. Minimal spokes at very high spoke tension is standard, and aero flat spokes are common. Carbon has succeeded alloy as the rim material of choice. They are built to be compliant radially but very stiff laterally, which shifts all of the stress load to the spokes and hub flanges. Keeping a modern wheel in true laterally is harder these days, no matter who built it.
Agreed on machine built wheels. They are a compromise for the masses, and usually work out fine for most riders that use them within their limits, which are, of course, rarely posted. As for staying in true, then and now, pre-stressing and hand building are a factor, especially now. Back then, I was building tubular wheels with butted spokes for light weight, and straight spokes for strength. Those rims were narrow and light. High spoke counts were the norm. Nowadays, tubulars are specialty wheels. Clinchers advanced to the norm, with the bleeding edge being hookless. Minimal spokes at very high spoke tension is standard, and aero flat spokes are common. Carbon has succeeded alloy as the rim material of choice. They are built to be compliant radially but very stiff laterally, which shifts all of the stress load to the spokes and hub flanges. Keeping a modern wheel in true laterally is harder these days, no matter who built it.
