Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
As the original poster, you can edit the title. This would benefit future searches for posts with "hub drive" in the title.
Breaking rear spokes on gun drive
- Thread starter Broncobusted
- Start date
As the original poster, you can edit the title. This would benefit future searches for posts with "hub drive" in the title.
I've done the task of replacing each spoke, one at a time to match them up the same. Then I had a good wheel guy do the truing. This was a common bmx wheel though. No dishing or any other fancy stuff. I imagine a hub drive with a cassette would be harder. But that is a option (I guess).
zbikeman
Member
- Region
- USA
I went to bike mechanic school in 2009 to get my certification. My thoughts.
Machine-built wheels are generally inferior to their handbuilt counterparts, not because of any inherent differences, but in the amount of time the wheel is built. Failing to pre-stress metal components is key.
We were taught to bring spokes up to some tension, leave them a few minutes, then detension them fully, and only then begin the dish / true / tension loop until finished.
We were pre-stressing all components first and then taking our time during the build. This allows the metal to settle in easier - less "muscle memory" - and maintain a more constant tension than anything built in a hurry.
I can't ever remember having to retrue a set of wheels I built. Not even a little, and I was quite fastidious about truing spec - within 0.5mm lateral and 1mm vertical. So every wheel I built stayed true for the rest of its life.
Machine-built wheels are generally inferior to their handbuilt counterparts, not because of any inherent differences, but in the amount of time the wheel is built. Failing to pre-stress metal components is key.
We were taught to bring spokes up to some tension, leave them a few minutes, then detension them fully, and only then begin the dish / true / tension loop until finished.
We were pre-stressing all components first and then taking our time during the build. This allows the metal to settle in easier - less "muscle memory" - and maintain a more constant tension than anything built in a hurry.
I can't ever remember having to retrue a set of wheels I built. Not even a little, and I was quite fastidious about truing spec - within 0.5mm lateral and 1mm vertical. So every wheel I built stayed true for the rest of its life.
Last edited:
6zfshdb
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Northeast Pennsylvania
I've had spoke trouble on the last four Trek conventional bikes I've owned. I'm 250 and sometimes carry 50+ pounds of gear. I also ride rough trails and have broken 12 gauge spokes on 36 hole rims. All the bikes had a 300# rating, but I managed to break spokes anyway.
When e-bike shopping, I wanted a hub drive, but was concerned about the spoke issue and the difficulty of repair. To eliminate the problem, I chose bikes with mag wheels rated at 450#. I've had no problems in 8 years now.
I realize these are extreme conditions and not something the average rider needs to consider, but mag wheels have been a problem solver for me. Unfortunately, this limits the selection of bikes, since only a few have mag options. Conversions are possible but difficult for hub drives since the rear mag needs an integrated motor. YMMV.
When e-bike shopping, I wanted a hub drive, but was concerned about the spoke issue and the difficulty of repair. To eliminate the problem, I chose bikes with mag wheels rated at 450#. I've had no problems in 8 years now.
I realize these are extreme conditions and not something the average rider needs to consider, but mag wheels have been a problem solver for me. Unfortunately, this limits the selection of bikes, since only a few have mag options. Conversions are possible but difficult for hub drives since the rear mag needs an integrated motor. YMMV.
