Brakes levers stopping motor? How to fix?

Why don't they need lubrication? That doesn't sound right to me.
I'll pile onto what @fooferdoggie and @TrevorB answered on this. Quality brake cables are treated so they are slick forever. Add your own lube and you are either fixing a quality problem only temporarily, or causing one down the road on a system that would not have gotten gummed up.

Just as important is the use of compressionless housing. That makes cabled brakes work a LOT better, although imho they are still far inferior to hydraulics on several fronts, but thats a whole different forum jihad, so I'll stop right there :D

A Jagwire Mountain Pro brake cable kit is about US$34 and has compressionless cable housing (kevlar lined), plus the housing is pre-lubed and the cables are polished. So... not expensive and since you are likely replacing lowest-cost brake housings, you are probably going to get better braking every time you squeeze the levers.
 
Yeah I replaced my stock cables with Jagwire 300 + miles no issues gear changes are precise.
 
My etrike is great except the brake levers on the handlebar sometime “stick” or don’t fully pop out. So the motor won’t run.

I know for sure this is the problem since pushing forward on the levers always solves the problem.

What is the suggested fix(es)?

Thanks!
I'm late to the conversation. If you have brake cut off sensors, there's usually some adjustment between the lever and the sensor. On my bike, I had the same problem, so I turned the brake sensor nut clockwise to move it closer to the brake lever. If that doesn't help, you should have a brake lever reach adjustment that may be set too far towards the handlebars. There's usually a 2mm allen head bolt near the lever pivot between the handlebars and the lever, that adjusts how far the brake lever travels, and likely a a torx t8 x 50mm setscrew beneath to lock it in place. You can try turning the 2mm brake lever reach adjustment clockwise, which should move the brake lever closer to the cut off sensor, hopefully rectifying the problem.
 
I ran out of recent posts to reply to, got bored, I'll stop replying to anything older than a few months.
I suggest responding to current threads only.
Reviving old threads only makes sense if a user was met by a similar issue as described in the old thread and wants more information.
 
I suggest responding to current threads only.
Reviving old threads only makes sense if a user was met by a similar issue as described in the old thread and wants more information.
Will do, thanks for the heads-up. I don't want to cause any problems, just anxious to share what I've learnt as a new e-bike owner.
 
This coming from the guy who douches and dip waxes his chain.
Well I think maybe they need your famous bubble bath and some Mobil 1 Red Grease! 🙃
[wrapped up like a douche in the runner of the night] did I quote that right or did I mishear? fever damage in ears( left ear in particular)
 
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