thanks everyone whos been posting especially for the manual link.
sorry if i gave impression the display now work it does notSo what is the current status? I am assuming the display powers up now, That shows you have voltage. Don't need no pictures of the battery. Only the Great Karmac can tell if it's working from a photo, but we can tell if the display comes on, Sp the display now turns on, and stays on when you hold the center button long enough.
You can press the+ and- buttons and the Assist icon in the right hand corner changes appropriately.from 1 to 5, and maybe 0 for being off? This shows the display is responding,
Bike doesn't work when you crank the pedals. Now that you have a working display. Will it show the speed as you ride without power? If it does, then you know controller is alive and feeding the display the speed info.
the controllers it shows are not like mine, mine is just a PCB resting loosely inside the case, at least i think its a controller, can anyone confirm that pls from the photo above
thanks i'll look for itI'm pretty sure that is the BMS (battery management system) circuit board that protects the battery.
Normally, the power goes from the battery, to the controller, then to the motor.
See if you have another "control box" somewhere between the battery and motor.
Your controller is only a 250 Watt controller, so it may be built-in to the battery case?
@harryS might know more about that.
View attachment 193759
Just to avoid confusion, if your display is turning on then your battery is “on.” I can’t parse your message… Are you saying that the display isn’t working? Can you take a picture of your display if it is? If it isn’t, was it at some point? And, what do you mean the controller is on when you hold the button down? I am not understanding your symptoms and I don’t think there’s much I can do to help.sorry if i gave impression the display now work it does not
the latest manual [link] [thanks pcebiker] will be helpful although it wont actually say how to turn battery on LOL. the controllers it shows are not like mine, mine is just a PCB resting loosely inside the case, at least i think its a controller, can anyone confirm that pls from the photo above
i checked again and panda are gone
thanks
i say again that i apologize for the misleading info and no display does definitely NOT workJust to avoid confusion, if your display is turning on then your battery is “on.” I can’t parse your message… Are you saying that the display isn’t working? Can you take a picture of your display if it is? If it isn’t, was it at some point? And, what do you mean the controller is on when you hold the button down? I am not understanding your symptoms and I don’t think there’s much I can do to help.
Good luck.
i thought i documented that quite far back. the batt does supply power when unplugged. 45.3v now i caller definitely posting it hereIf you found the controller box, you unplug its power connetor and check that the battery is supplying power when turned on. No point in doing anything else until you prove the battery works.
i thought i documented that quite far back. the batt does supply power when unplugged. 45.3v now i caller definitely posting it here
thanks
You checked it at the back of the battery before. What's the voltage at the controller connector? And you had a funky number til it was pointed out.i thought i documented that quite far back. the batt does supply power when unplugged. 45.3v now i caller definitely posting it here
thanks
Your BMS could be doing something weird and putting out a higher Voltage than is actually in the battery pack, but I've never heard of such a thing
You had a funky number til it was pointed out.
You are reading 45v on the battery when it shouldn’t be over 42v, ever.
Unless they connected something wrong and now the BMS it triggered by Over Voltage error.
ok lets ignore all my batt readings with the inaccurate meter and the old analogue one . mon i will get new 9v batt for meter. sorry for the confusion
ok lets ignore all my batt readings i will get new 9v batt for meter.
Usually the case with digital equipment, but analog equipment would give very bad readings since they are (typically) more sensitive.They NEVER Gave inaccurate or Erroneous readings when the battery was dying.
They just stopped working.