bike seems dead

here are more pix
 

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I really like batteries to have a USB port. Then I can either safely take down the voltage slowly, by running a fan, or I can jump the BMS with low voltage after a couple of hours. And that will awaken it.
 
So what is the current status? I am assuming the display powers up now, That shows you have voltage. Don't need no pictures of the battery. Only the Great Karmac can tell if it's working from a photo, but we can tell if the display comes on, Sp the display now turns on, and stays on when you hold the center button long enough.

You can press the+ and- buttons and the Assist icon in the right hand corner changes appropriately.from 1 to 5, and maybe 0 for being off? This shows the display is responding,

Bike doesn't work when you crank the pedals. Now that you have a working display. Will it show the speed as you ride without power? If it does, then you know controller is alive and feeding the display the speed info.
sorry if i gave impression the display now work it does not

the latest manual [link] [thanks pcebiker] will be helpful although it wont actually say how to turn battery on LOL. the controllers it shows are not like mine, mine is just a PCB resting loosely inside the case, at least i think its a controller, can anyone confirm that pls from the photo above

i checked again and panda are gone
thanks
 
the controllers it shows are not like mine, mine is just a PCB resting loosely inside the case, at least i think its a controller, can anyone confirm that pls from the photo above

I'm pretty sure that is the BMS (battery management system) circuit board that protects the battery.

Normally, the power goes from the battery, to the controller, then to the motor.

See if you have another "control box" somewhere between the battery and motor.

Your controller is only a 250 Watt controller, so it may be built-in to the battery case?

@harryS might know more about that.



Screenshot_20250516_145641_Chrome.jpg
 
I'm pretty sure that is the BMS (battery management system) circuit board that protects the battery.

Normally, the power goes from the battery, to the controller, then to the motor.

See if you have another "control box" somewhere between the battery and motor.

Your controller is only a 250 Watt controller, so it may be built-in to the battery case?

@harryS might know more about that.



View attachment 193759
thanks i'll look for it
 
If you follow any wire such as to the display, it will lead you to the controller. It is the junction box and motherboard. Could be under the battery. Follow another such as from the speed sensor and it is where they meet.
 
sorry if i gave impression the display now work it does not

the latest manual [link] [thanks pcebiker] will be helpful although it wont actually say how to turn battery on LOL. the controllers it shows are not like mine, mine is just a PCB resting loosely inside the case, at least i think its a controller, can anyone confirm that pls from the photo above

i checked again and panda are gone
thanks
Just to avoid confusion, if your display is turning on then your battery is “on.” I can’t parse your message… Are you saying that the display isn’t working? Can you take a picture of your display if it is? If it isn’t, was it at some point? And, what do you mean the controller is on when you hold the button down? I am not understanding your symptoms and I don’t think there’s much I can do to help.

Good luck.
 
Just to avoid confusion, if your display is turning on then your battery is “on.” I can’t parse your message… Are you saying that the display isn’t working? Can you take a picture of your display if it is? If it isn’t, was it at some point? And, what do you mean the controller is on when you hold the button down? I am not understanding your symptoms and I don’t think there’s much I can do to help.

Good luck.
i say again that i apologize for the misleading info and no display does definitely NOT work

im trying to gather the info people here ask for but sometimes after i present it i dont here back which sort of leaves me hanging. so ive reassembled the batt box and am wondering what steps to take now...thanks all [am still very open to suggestions]. does anyone have any opinions on the build quality of the bike?

i found the controller its in batt box at back
thanks
 
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If you found the controller box, you unplug its power connetor and check that the battery is supplying power when turned on. No point in doing anything else until you prove the battery works.
 
If you found the controller box, you unplug its power connetor and check that the battery is supplying power when turned on. No point in doing anything else until you prove the battery works.
i thought i documented that quite far back. the batt does supply power when unplugged. 45.3v now i caller definitely posting it here
thanks
 
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i thought i documented that quite far back. the batt does supply power when unplugged. 45.3v now i caller definitely posting it here
thanks

Are You Sure that you have a 36 Volt battery?

If it is actually a 36 Volt battery, and it is putting out 45.3 Volts, then you are at risk of setting your battery on fire 🔥.

Something ain't right, and could be Seriously Wrong 🤔!!
 
Your BMS could be doing something weird and putting out a higher Voltage than is actually in the battery pack, but I've never heard of such a thing
 
i thought i documented that quite far back. the batt does supply power when unplugged. 45.3v now i caller definitely posting it here
thanks
You checked it at the back of the battery before. What's the voltage at the controller connector? And you had a funky number til it was pointed out.
 
A 36v battery shouldn’t be paired with a 46v charger. You are reading 45v on the battery when it shouldn’t be over 42v, ever. It almost sounds like the battery builders added a cell series. That would give you your reading, but makes no sense that a cell series would’ve been added.

Unless they connected something wrong and now the BMS it triggered by Over Voltage error.
 
ok lets ignore all my batt readings with the inaccurate meter and the old analogue one . mon i will get new 9v batt for meter. sorry for the confusion
 
Your BMS could be doing something weird and putting out a higher Voltage than is actually in the battery pack, but I've never heard of such a thing

You had a funky number til it was pointed out.

You are reading 45v on the battery when it shouldn’t be over 42v, ever.

Unless they connected something wrong and now the BMS it triggered by Over Voltage error.

The only thing that I can think of is that the BMS is "converting" the 36 Volt to 48 Volt so it will trigger a 48 Volt controller or something?

Perhaps the battery was rebuilt to a 46 or 48 Volt 🔋 or something??

That's not implosiible because a 36 Volt motor can Easily Run on 48 Volt if you don't over-amp it.

Perhaps the battery was "Supercharged"?

ok lets ignore all my batt readings with the inaccurate meter and the old analogue one . mon i will get new 9v batt for meter. sorry for the confusion

Don't Ignore Your Battery Readings.
They are WAY Too Off.

Your battery reading might be off, but it is by a Whole Hell off a lot.

45.3 Volts is way too much for a 36 Volt battery, and not nearly enough for a 48 Volt battery, so something is Really Off !!

One or two Volts Is A LOT When charging lithium batteries.
It could mean the difference between a fully charged battery and a Fricken Battery 🔥.



I'm kinda doubting that your Voltmeter is off by enough to start your house on fire.
 
ok lets ignore all my batt readings i will get new 9v batt for meter.

I've had my batteries go dead on Many Multimeters before, But they Don't Start giving Erroneous Results when they die !!

The screen starts to go dim or flash, or it shuts off.

They NEVER Gave inaccurate or Erroneous readings when the battery was dying.
They just stopped working.
 
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