Bike is doing this.. please help

Man reviewing you previous posts, good on you for giving it a go! However it’s clear you bit off a bit more than you can chew. Luna has a great BBSHD troubleshooting guide on their forum. Sebz is the author.

you need to step back, take a long slow read and go at it one small step at a time. We asked about voltage in another thread and it seems you lack a basic tool like a multimeter. “Empty” doesn’t qualify as a trouble shooting response.

 
Yes it runs smooth if I lift the bike up, But with any weight what you see in the video happens. and chain jumps off, and bike won’t move
I've never opened one... but isn't there an internal clutch? Slipping?
These are novice guesses... but that's all I can offer 🙃
 
Man reviewing you previous posts, good on you for giving it a go! However it’s clear you bit off a bit more than you can chew. Luna has a great BBSHD troubleshooting guide on their forum. Sebz is the author.

you need to step back, take a long slow read and go at it one small step at a time. We asked about voltage in another thread and it seems you lack a basic tool like a multimeter. “Empty” doesn’t qualify as a trouble shooting response.

If you’re going to be condescending, go play with someone else. Either help or stfu. Thank you
 
If you’re going to be condescending, go play with someone else. Either help or stfu. Thank you
From ANOTHER old timer's perspective, it looks like Tom might be trying to help. Sometimes, (in our experience) when one is having some sort of weird problem like yours, it's better to take a step back and try to get your head wrapped around the ENTIRE picture you have in front of you. Focus a little bit, in an unhurried manner, taking it a step at a time. A lot of us have found that reading through some diagnostics like he's suggesting MIGHT provide you with an idea/line of thought not previously considered. Kind of like we're trying to do for you. Remember, the bike is sitting right there in front of you. WE'RE running on experience and sometimes pretty old memories when trying to relate....

Further, if you KNOW you have a broken clutch, I don't see much in the way of options for you. You can replace it, or you can abandon the project, no?
 
From ANOTHER old timer's perspective, it looks like Tom might be trying to help. Sometimes, (in our experience) when one is having some sort of weird problem like yours, it's better to take a step back and try to get your head wrapped around the ENTIRE picture you have in front of you. Focus a little bit, in an unhurried manner, taking it a step at a time. A lot of us have found that reading through some diagnostics like he's suggesting MIGHT provide you with an idea/line of thought not previously considered. Kind of like we're trying to do for you. Remember, the bike is sitting right there in front of you. WE'RE running on experience and sometimes pretty old memories when trying to relate....

Further, if you KNOW you have a broken clutch, I don't see much in the way of options for you. You can replace it, or you can abandon the project, no?
He is, then he ends with something smart. But I’m moving on

I just put a clutch in and (what ever makes it’s skip or shake or what ever it’s doing) destroyed the clutch.
So if it was shaking with a new clutch I’d have to think hard about what else it could be. Or buy a new one
 
Take the chain off and run the motor. Does it sound smooth? Make sure there is no chatter in the motor itself.

You could have bought the wrong size chain, if it is a new one. There's mountain bike chains good for 7 speed cassette/freewheels, and then there is a narrower chain for road bikes that have 8 gears and more on the rear wheel, I don't think the mismatch is bad enough to do what we see in the video,.

Maybe the Bafang chain gear is little wider too, for strength and it wants to throw off a thinner chain.Or the offset between the chain gear and the rear hub is really terrible.
 
Take the chain off and run the motor. Does it sound smooth? Let's male sure there ios no charret in the motor itself.

You could have bought the wrong size chain, if it is a new one. There's mountain bike chains good for 7 speed cassette/freewheels, and then there is a narrower chain for road bikes that have 8 gears and more on the rear wheel, I don't thing the mismatch is nad enough to dp what we see in the video,.

Maybe the Bafang chain gear is little wider too, for strength and it wantsto throw off a tinner chain.
It runs smooth with the chain off, it runs smooth if I take weight off the bike with the chain on. It’s only when I put weight on the bike it does This ,, I’m interested in knowing if it’s the chain, how could I find the specs?
 
If you’re going to be condescending, go play with someone else. Either help or stfu. Thank you
That’s an unnecessary tone to take. I actually gave you quite a bit of time to help you sort. But you’re going at this Willy Nilly. I didn’t intend to embarrass you. I’ve been down this road with BBSHD customers more times than I can account for. And have been building BBSxx bikes since 2014. So, I gave you great advice and posed some important questions. NOW we read a new clutch is trashed. I’m all in to help but at some point it becomes impossible with incomplete answers and information. So whenever you wanna get over butt hurt…
See ya!
 
Jtss617,
Tomjaz is trying to help, as are the others in this forum. Each of us has a particular style and sense of humor (albeit in Tomjasz case, it's kinda warped). Nobody is trying to insult you. Tomjasz has helped a lot of people solve problems on this board, myself included. I would ask of you, if you want help, please answer our questions so that we can help you methodically eliminate possible causes of the problem. The only way we can help you diagnose your problem is through the process of elimination and deductive reasoning.

From what I can tell, you have a bike with BBSHD, with a new clutch, new chain ring, new controller, and a new chain.
You put a new clutch in, to fix the problem and now "whatever makes it’s skip or shake or what ever it’s doing, destroyed the clutch".

What we don't know, (some of which we asked previously) is:

Did you acquire the bike with this existing problem?
If the problem occurred under your ownership did you make any mods just before the problem manifested?
Anything else significant occur just before the problem manifested? (crash?)
What did the previous clutch look like? Was it "destroyed"? Do you still have it? If "yes" send pics.
So, the current clutch in the motor is a "destroyed" clutch?
When you say "destroyed", what do you mean? Can you share detailed pictures of the "destroyed" clutch (especially the pawls).
(I just destroyed the clutch (pawls) in my rear hub. The teeth were sheared off.)
Can you share pictures of the inner ring gear teeth that the clutch pawls engage. They could be sheared or worn.
Why did you replace the clutch? Was the install performed by you, or somebody else.
Did you install the new chain? Why?
Is the chain falling to the inside of the chain ring or the outside?
Is this a rear single speed or multi speed cog set? If multi speed, how many speeds.
If multi speed, Is it a Freewheel or Shimano style hub
Is the chain the proper chain for the number of cogs? There is a difference in chain sizes for the number of cogs.
May we see Pics of the chain alignment from the rear middle cog to the chainring.
May we see side pics of the chain setup from the rear cogs and derailleur to the chain ring?

There are a lot of very experienced ebikers here and we really need this info to help you. My hunch is that your problem is with your clutch pawls, and/or the ring gear teeth that engage the pawls. If the inner ring gear teeth are bad, or some are broken, that could cause skipping and uneven force applied to the chainring as the pawls are engaged when stressed/under load. It may spin fine while not under load. If the pawls are chipped or cracked that could do it too.

Just a hunch. That being said, if you would be so kind as to answer the above questions and send over the needed pics, we shall endeavor to help you.
 
response
he ends with something smart.
i try to inject smart responses, thanks for recognizing that. I acknowledge my success as a Boy Scout and earning my merit badges. But behind the bluster is a fellow interested in helping and learning more along the way. It’s hard to help without clear details. Anything I can do to disarm and drama and I’m in. BBSxx series motors are my favorite kit builds. Ask and I’m there.
1678676216182.jpeg
 
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Hey thank you, I told him screw off because he was bully, if you think you control what I say with your knowledge, you can screw off, I’ll post the pics, you can help if you, if not screw off, I don’t deal with commies very well. And I’d rather die than take help from a commie. Thank you
Jtss617,
Tomjaz is trying to help, as are the others in this forum. Each of us has a particular style and sense of humor (albeit in Tomjasz case, it's kinda warped). Nobody is trying to insult you. Tomjasz has helped a lot of people solve problems on this board, myself included. I would ask of you, if you want help, please answer our questions so that we can help you methodically eliminate possible causes of the problem. The only way we can help you diagnose your problem is through the process of elimination and deductive reasoning.

From what I can tell, you have a bike with BBSHD, with a new clutch, new chain ring, new controller, and a new chain.
You put a new clutch in, to fix the problem and now "whatever makes it’s skip or shake or what ever it’s doing, destroyed the clutch".

What we don't know, (some of which we asked previously) is:

Did you acquire the bike with this existing problem?
If the problem occurred under your ownership did you make any mods just before the problem manifested?
Anything else significant occur just before the problem manifested? (crash?)
What did the previous clutch look like? Was it "destroyed"? Do you still have it? If "yes" send pics.
So, the current clutch in the motor is a "destroyed" clutch?
When you say "destroyed", what do you mean? Can you share detailed pictures of the "destroyed" clutch (especially the pawls).
(I just destroyed the clutch (pawls) in my rear hub. The teeth were sheared off.)
Can you share pictures of the inner ring gear teeth that the clutch pawls engage. They could be sheared or worn.
Why did you replace the clutch? Was the install performed by you, or somebody else.
Did you install the new chain? Why?
Is the chain falling to the inside of the chain ring or the outside?
Is this a rear single speed or multi speed cog set? If multi speed, how many speeds.
If multi speed, Is it a Freewheel or Shimano style hub
Is the chain the proper chain for the number of cogs? There is a difference in chain sizes for the number of cogs.
May we see Pics of the chain alignment from the rear middle cog to the chainring.
May we see side pics of the chain setup from the rear cogs and derailleur to the chain ring?

There are a lot of very experienced ebikers here and we really need this info to help you. My hunch is that your problem is with your clutch pawls, and/or the ring gear teeth that engage the pawls. If the inner ring gear teeth are bad, or some are broken, that could cause skipping and uneven force applied to the chainring as the pawls are engaged when stressed/under load. It may spin fine while not under load. If the pawls are chipped or cracked that could do it too.

Just a hunch. That being said, if you would be so kind as to answer the above questions and send over the needed pics, we shall endeavor to help you.
 
Jtss617,
Tomjaz is trying to help, as are the others in this forum. Each of us has a particular style and sense of humor (albeit in Tomjasz case, it's kinda warped). Nobody is trying to insult you. Tomjasz has helped a lot of people solve problems on this board, myself included. I would ask of you, if you want help, please answer our questions so that we can help you methodically eliminate possible causes of the problem. The only way we can help you diagnose your problem is through the process of elimination and deductive reasoning.

From what I can tell, you have a bike with BBSHD, with a new clutch, new chain ring, new controller, and a new chain.
You put a new clutch in, to fix the problem and now "whatever makes it’s skip or shake or what ever it’s doing, destroyed the clutch".

What we don't know, (some of which we asked previously) is:

Did you acquire the bike with this existing problem?
If the problem occurred under your ownership did you make any mods just before the problem manifested?
Anything else significant occur just before the problem manifested? (crash?)
What did the previous clutch look like? Was it "destroyed"? Do you still have it? If "yes" send pics.
So, the current clutch in the motor is a "destroyed" clutch?
When you say "destroyed", what do you mean? Can you share detailed pictures of the "destroyed" clutch (especially the pawls).
(I just destroyed the clutch (pawls) in my rear hub. The teeth were sheared off.)
Can you share pictures of the inner ring gear teeth that the clutch pawls engage. They could be sheared or worn.
Why did you replace the clutch? Was the install performed by you, or somebody else.
Did you install the new chain? Why?
Is the chain falling to the inside of the chain ring or the outside?
Is this a rear single speed or multi speed cog set? If multi speed, how many speeds.
If multi speed, Is it a Freewheel or Shimano style hub
Is the chain the proper chain for the number of cogs? There is a difference in chain sizes for the number of cogs.
May we see Pics of the chain alignment from the rear middle cog to the chainring.
May we see side pics of the chain setup from the rear cogs and derailleur to the chain ring?

There are a lot of very experienced ebikers here and we really need this info to help you. My hunch is that your problem is with your clutch pawls, and/or the ring gear teeth that engage the pawls. If the inner ring gear teeth are bad, or some are broken, that could cause skipping and uneven force applied to the chainring as the pawls are engaged when stressed/under load. It may spin fine while not under load. If the pawls are chipped or cracked that could do it too.

Just a hunch. That being said, if you would be so kind as to answer the above questions and send over the needed pics, we shall endeavor to help you.
So I bought it modified by a guy from Boston, worked great for a year, (I use it a lot year round)
Here is the gear and other pics I took
 

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response

i try to inject smart responses, thanks for recognizing that. I acknowledge my success as a Boy Scout and earning my merit badges. But behind the bluster is a fellow interested in helping and learning more along the way. It’s hard to help without clear details. Anything I can do to disarm and drama and I’m in. BBSxx series motors are my favorite kit builds. Ask and I’m there.
View attachment 149157
Kits ??? Do you do baby carriages?
You da 'fang' in Bafang huh? I want a poison mouth (like yours) that spits venom mounted on the front and BIG WHEELS w/ chrome hubcaps !!
I'll throw dirt on it and make it look old (like you, not me).
Yu'know I'm a' thinkin' you
It runs smooth with the chain off, it runs smooth if I take weight off the bike with the chain on. It’s only when I put weight on the bike it does This ,, I’m interested in knowing if it’s the chain, how could I find the specs?
You solve this?
Not, then send me the numbers on the chain.
FnF
 
This bike is a Bbshd mid drive.
All the gears look great.
New clutch, new chain ring, new controller, and the bike shakes or skips when I hit the throttle, and the chain falls off if I put weight on it (It runs smooth if no weight on the bike) . I’ve taken this apart. To the core.
Any suggestions?

Why does weight cause it to skip/shake/ chain falls off?
I've the day off so lets not waste our time.
I feel you. There are no problems, only solutions. My opinions are experience (actually solving s*it) generated.
By "weight" I assume you mean applying power. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Your chain is entirely incorrect, or too long could be the problem.
Give me a close-up photo of the numbers on the chain links and master link, I'll tell you what's up.
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(After you've made sure your derailleurs' contracting correctly - clutch is on, etc ....), post photos of your chain (set on middle cassette cog),
showing the area from the complete derailleur and cassette, to the ring-gear - entirely but as close-up as you can get to just that.
I'll step out on a no BS limb here. This sounds 2 problems.
1. You have a balancing weight on a spinning (motor) part that is missing/ removed.
2. The spider or ring-gear is not true and is wobbling.
That symptom would increase with stress applied.
-
Eliminating those issues, you'll know what it isn't.

Much respect for a guy re-building his own motor.
Complete BS these same immature clowns keep hijacking threads and turning them unproductive.
 
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