Big name bikes and Bafang

Also worth noting that even if Bosch and co didn't sell a single e-bike from now on, it would still have a fat profit stream from charging ~3-4x what some direct sales brands do for replacement batteries.

Brands like it, because it undercuts the used market when a battery costs so much relative to a new bike, that you just buy new instead. New bike sales are the bread and butter of bike shop revenue. IME, bike shops that sell new bikes from the big brands never stock many if any used bikes.

So the Bosch oligopoly prevents competition that would change the rules of the game in the ways that brands would dislike, such as using non proprietary batteries that could be replaced for a couple hundred dollars.

People talk a big game about Bosch reliability, but pedal bikes can last 20 years easy, but we have no idea how long Bosch and co will actually support their proprietary e-bike bits. We already know for a fact that it comes at a great cost, thanks to batteries which regardless of source only last 2-4 years with typical use.
While I agree the cost of their batteries could be lower, do you really think those much cheaper options you speak of are in the same league in regards to engineering, integration, BMS and software, materials, assembly.....? Do you really think these cheaper suppliers you speak of could produce what Bosch, Shimano, Yamaha......are offering for only a “couple hundred dollars” today?

Where are you getting “......thanks to batteries which regardless of source only last 2-4 years of typical use.” I don’t believe this is true. Maybe it’s true for the cheaper options that you speak so highly of. My Shimano battery that’s over a year and a half old, with over 2500 miles reports its health at 98%. Can most of these cheaper options you speak of even provide you with this type of information?
 
While I agree the cost of their batteries could be lower, do you really think those much cheaper options you speak of are in the same league in regards to engineering, integration, BMS and software, materials, assembly.....? Do you really think these cheaper suppliers you speak of could produce what Bosch, Shimano, Yamaha......are offering for only a “couple hundred dollars” today?

Where are you getting “......thanks to batteries which regardless of source only last 2-4 years of typical use.” I don’t believe this is true. Maybe it’s true for the cheaper options that you speak so highly of. My Shimano battery that’s over a year and a half old, with over 2500 miles reports its health at 98%. Can most of these cheaper options you speak of even provide you with this type of information?

That is an excellent question though I think the case for name brands is stronger with motors than batteries. Batteries are made up of individual cells made by one of a few big manufacturers (Panasonic, Samsung, LG), even among the lower cost brands. If these name brands had chargers that capped charging at 80%, that would help, but they don't.

I have looked for authoritative info on battery aging, but didn't find anything besides a post from Battery University, and it still leaves it unclear how much calendar aging matters. I've seen even less discussion of name brands having better batteries. If you have a good link, do share.

How are you assessing the Shimano battery's health?

Luna mentions 3 years as typical.

 
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I have looked for authoritative info on battery aging, but didn't find anything besides a post from Battery University, and it still leaves it unclear how much calendar aging matters. I've seen even less discussion of name brands having better batteries. If you have a good link, do share.

This study reports a life span in the range of 10 to 15 years, although I presume some efficiencies have been made since it was published.

So far, according to experimentation for electric (EV) and hybrid (HV) vehicles applications, using scale 1 cells built with nickel based positive material the results show:

• more than 1 200 deep cycle (80% d.o.d. EV cycle) with only few percent of energy and power losses,
• more than 500 000 shallow cycles (3% d.o.d. HV cycle) with negligible power losses,
• 2 years of storage testing at full charge and various temperature (20 °C/40 °C/60 °C) leading to a life expectation of 10 years for EV applications and 15 years for HV applications
.

(to be clear, this study examined Li-Ion, not Ni-MH batteries)

This seems inline with the 10 year warranty a Powerwall comes with. (although that's a bit of a loaded subject in itself)
 
That is an excellent question though I think the case for name brands is stronger with motors than batteries. Batteries are made up of individual cells made by one of a few big manufacturers (Panasonic, Samsung, LG), even among the lower cost brands. If these name brands had chargers that capped charging at 80%, that would help, but they don't.

I have looked for authoritative info on battery aging, but didn't find anything besides a post from Battery University, and it still leaves it unclear how much calendar aging matters. I've seen even less discussion of name brands having better batteries. If you have a good link, do share.

How are you assessing the Shimano battery's health?

Luna mentions 3 years as typical.

Shimano and all of the ”big 4” generate health and diagnostic data for their motors and batteries. I used an app called ST Unlocker to access this information.

I am very confident my battery will last much longer than 2-4 years. I’ll let you know if I’m wrong.

Edit: oops, I just connected to my bike via Bluetooth, and my battery health is 95%, not 98%. Not looking too good for me......lol. 🤪
 
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This study reports a life span in the range of 10 to 15 years, although I presume some efficiencies have been made since it was published.

So far, according to experimentation for electric (EV) and hybrid (HV) vehicles applications, using scale 1 cells built with nickel based positive material the results show:

• more than 1 200 deep cycle (80% d.o.d. EV cycle) with only few percent of energy and power losses,
• more than 500 000 shallow cycles (3% d.o.d. HV cycle) with negligible power losses,
• 2 years of storage testing at full charge and various temperature (20 °C/40 °C/60 °C) leading to a life expectation of 10 years for EV applications and 15 years for HV applications
.

(to be clear, this study examined Li-Ion, not Ni-MH batteries)

This seems inline with the 10 year warranty a Powerwall comes with. (although that's a bit of a loaded subject in itself)

Are these experiments conducted on a battery setup that is similar to what an e-bike, or an e-cars have? E-cars have temperature management systems that e-bikes don't.

Pedego says 2-4 years, and I feel like I've heard similar things elsewhere. https://pedegoelectricbikes.ca/3-ways-to-prolong-your-electric-bike-battery/

"Bosch believe that even after 500 charges their battery will still hold “60 to 70 per cent of the original capacity.” In an ADAC test from autumn 2015, a Bosch e-bike battery was fully discharged 1,515 times before it could hold only 30 per cent of its original capacity."

"Shimano claim that the battery life will reduce 5 per cent a year, so 95% after one year and 90 per cent after two."

Given all that, 3-4 years seems like a reasonable estimate before 20% depletion, the usual threshold for battery expiry, and perhaps double if you charge it more carefully. Considering Luna made a smart charger for $100, smart chargers should just be mandatorily bundled with every ebike, or at least ones with say 400+ wh batteries. Would avoid a lot of toxic waste.

 
I did support from a well-known kit seller. In 2015. I have several batteries from 2015 that I really overbought with my discounts on two 48V and 52V 20Ah. I stored them in a humidity-controlled basement between 55F(12.7C) and 60F(15.5C) at 50%-70%. This summer I charged them and they were really sagging. I did several long charges with my Satiator and am happy with the performance. I have an eRad battery from 2014 and an EM3ev battery also from 2014. Both 36V but the motors only pull 13-15A. Still power my 350W 36V BBS01's to 20MPH and squeek out at least 25miles. (10.5AH and a 12Ah) I really have NO complaits about longevity. My UPP 13S4P has been beaten to death (pushed to limits every ride. and it's now a major sag hag. But still gave me 4 years, stored in -10F to 105F garage, brought in to charge.
 
I did support from a well-known kit seller. In 2015. I have several batteries from 2015 that I really overbought with my discounts on two 48V and 52V 20Ah. I stored them in a humidity-controlled basement between 55F(12.7C) and 60F(15.5C) at 50%-70%. This summer I charged them and they were really sagging. I did several long charges with my Satiator and am happy with the performance. I have an eRad battery from 2014 and an EM3ev battery also from 2014. Both 36V but the motors only pull 13-15A. Still power my 350W 36V BBS01's to 20MPH and squeek out at least 25miles. (10.5AH and a 12Ah) I really have NO complaits about longevity. My UPP 13S4P has been beaten to death (pushed to limits every ride. and it's now a major sag hag. But still gave me 4 years, stored in -10F to 105F garage, brought in to charge.
Did you notice any great difference in torque or anything between 48v to 52v?
 
Did you notice any great difference in torque or anything between 48v to 52v?
Overrated in my experience.

Home / News / 52 Volt Battery Proceed With CautionSEP14

52 Volt Battery Proceed With Caution​

posted by Matthew Hughes

52 volt batteries have become popular, but are they really living up to the hype? Are they safe? We sold 52 volt batteries for about 1 year because of the constant customer requests, this is what we learned and why we no longer advise using them.
1- 60% of 52 volt packs we sold had failures within 1 year!
2- Squeezing in the extra 4 cells for a 13.5 Ah or 5 cells for the 17.5 Ah packs means you can no longer use the frame that mechanically holds all the cells together, resulting in broken spot welds and nickel strip. Cells would literally fall out when opening the case. All the cases on the market were designed for 48/36 volt packs, 52 18650 cells for 13.5 Ah, and 65 18650 cells for 17.5 Ah, with 48 volts being the largest pack size available not 56 or 70 cells. Because the cell frame holder cannot be used, the packs are built by hand and not by CNC spot welding robots, resulting in varying levels of quality. The nickel strip which is meant to be an electrical connection only, ends up being most of the mechanical strength of the pack. Some packs have hot glue or heat shrink to try and mechanically hold the cells together, but it's a hack and over time and vibration they fail. You can even verify no manufacturers make a 52 volt case. Go to Hailong's website also known as ShanShan Plastic Company linked here: http://en.kssssj.cn/products_detail/productId=50.html you will notice it states maximum cell capacity of 65 cells for a 48 volt 17.5 Ah pack. They do not make or sell a pack that can hold 70 cells. Here is a link to their cell holder for reference as well, again not able to hold the extra cells: http://en.kssssj.cn/products_detail/productId=105.html
3- The BMS is not popular anywhere else in the world except for US and as a result there is low demand, low production, little to no quality improvements and the failure rate is higher for 52 volt BMS vs 48 volt BMS which are widely used and constantly improving.
4- Bafang and many other motor mfgr's do not want 52 volt packs used on their 48 volt motor systems and firmware has been updated to inhibit their use. For example, new motors from Bafang will fail for error code 7 when the 52 volt battery is fully charged at 58.8 volts. Dealers revert back to older versions of firmware to get around this, but is rolling back firmware a good solution? We don't think so. Any vendor selling you a bafang mid drive that works with 52 volts is installing years old firmware to make it work.
5- Higher voltage from 54.6v to 58.8v may give you a 1 mph speed increase because higher DC voltages make the DC motors spin faster, but it comes at a cost. The electrical components are not rated for these higher voltages which can push the spec tolerance too high resulting in controller failures. The speed increase is barely noticeable and really not worth the trade off of in quality pack construction.
6- Worst of all.... we had a Hailong 52 volt pack catch fire! It wasn't locked properly and came off the bike hitting the ground. It cracked the case but still worked so all appeared fine, but hours later it went into thermal runaway.
The battery is the heart of the system. It is critical that your investment last and not have failures. Many of our customers use their bikes to commute to work daily. Imagine your daily commuter breaking down on your way to work. The cool, new, better 52 volt battery upgrade that has been hyped up leaves you stranded. Unless you have a warranty, or know how to repair a battery yourself, proceed with caution.
We are constantly being asked to fix these failing 52 volt batteries for people who have them. It could actually be a full time job position just repairing these 52 volt packs being pushed onto unwitting customers. Many vendors have terrible to no support at all after the sale, we hear it regularly.
Below are images of a 52 volt Hailong branded pack brought to us from a guy who bought if from Amazon. Notice there is no frame holder to keep cells together properly. Nothing is holding the pack together so after re-balancing the cells and repairing the broken nickel It was wrapped with tape to give it some type of stability. Nothing much more we could do with this pack. Do you want to spend your hard earned money on something like this? It had broken nickel in 4 places and was only a few months old.
52 volt pack without cell holding frame

It's hard to tell, but this was a broken spot weld below. This pack was assembled by hand and you can see how poorly the nickel lines up with the center of the cells. Poor build quality!
broken spot weld from vibration over time

This little piggy... hangs out there all by itself. It's been crammed into the case smashed up against the lock mechanism when the case is assembled and will just keep on breaking off. Nice huh?
Broken nickel strip 52 volt battery

Here you can see the broken spot weld and a dented cell from improper fitment into the case by cramming in extra cells it was never designed for.
52 volt battery broken nickel strip

To help those out there with this issue the only "quick fix" is to ditch the nickel strip and use stranded copper wire that can flex when the cell moves around. You can try this if you are unlucky enough to have one of these 52 volt packs. Almost everyone we open up is broken right here. It's the most common failure. Make sure to bring that cell to the same voltage potential as the other cells before connecting it with the stranded wire.
52 volt battery broken nickel repair with stranded copper wire

Below is an example of the frame holder that holds the pack together. The black frame that holds all the cells together into a single unit. Notice above on the green cells, nothing is holding it together, but below the purple cells are all nicely held together inside that black frame holder. It's a properly designed and constructed pack. Most 52 volt packs are made like the above images. There is no cases and cell holders designed by these manufactures designed for 52 volts, so they cut corners to bring one to market. I challenge all 52 volt pack owners to look inside their packs and show a picture of how its made. This article is on endless sphere so you can share your pics and discuss it there where it can reach more people.
48 volt pack with cell holder

So what's the point?
The point is, if you are looking for what battery to get, 48 vs 52 volt.
Understand that the Hailong branded 52 volt packs on the market are not being built correctly.
Ask sellers to send pictures of the inside of their pack, ask what is holding the cells together. Make sure it isn't a pic of a 48 volt version ; ) The 48 volt versions will always include the frame and be of solid construction, the 52 volt versions won't.
48 volt packs, because of the frame and jigs provided by case mfgr, have CNC spot welded pre-died and cut nickel strip.
52 volt packs are hand assembled, and hand welded with hand cut strips. The workers actually hate making them, isn't that a warm fuzzy knowing the pack maker is cursing this thing they are making you, not good!
48 volts is plenty, you will have a blast, you will never notice the difference.
Just get a 48 volt pack because it will be built the way it was designed, by somebody not hating building it.
Go for the build quality, not the extra 4 volts.
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Thank you for all the info buddy. I have 2 x 48v 15Ah (total 30 Ah) batteries that use the LG 21700 cells. I am more than happy with them. I was just curious and would rather ask someone with real world experience of them than read the tons of hearsay pages available.
Thanks again.
 
All this battery talk made me think of another potential benefit of the “big 4” systems......
I have read a number of posts on this forum of people noting a performance drop as their battery discharges on their lower cost drive systems. For sure, this is not the case with Shimano and Bosch, and I’m sure Yamaha and Brose are no different. My girlfriend (Bosch) and I (Shimano) very rarely let our batteries go below 20%, but when we have, there has been no noticeable drop in performance compared to fully charged. They do eventually reduce power output to help increase range and protect the battery, but at that point you’re talking single digit % charge remaining.
 
All this battery talk made me think of another potential benefit of the “big 4” systems......
I have read a number of posts on this forum of people noting a performance drop as their battery discharges on their lower cost drive systems. For sure, this is not the case with Shimano and Bosch, and I’m sure Yamaha and Brose are no different. My girlfriend (Bosch) and I (Shimano) very rarely let our batteries go below 20%, but when we have, there has been no noticeable drop in performance compared to fully charged. They do eventually reduce power output to help increase range and protect the battery, but at that point you’re talking single digit % charge remaining.
I have the Bafang Ultra. If you go to the MD1000 thread of a few days ago you’ll see where I posted how I was well impressed that after 30 miles of really wringing it’s neck it never lost any performance. I only refer to this as it shows I posted about this before reading this post. Just to prove I’m not saying it as BS to react to make the Ultra look better than it is because that’s what motor I use.
 
I have the Bafang Ultra. If you go to the MD1000 thread of a few days ago you’ll see where I posted how I was well impressed that after 30 miles of really wringing it’s neck it never lost any performance. I only refer to this as it shows I posted about this before reading this post. Just to prove I’m not saying it as BS to react to make the Ultra look better than it is because that’s what motor I use.
Glad to hear the Ultra doesn’t exhibit this behavior. Again, I only noted what I have read on this forum and my experience with Bosch and Shimano.

Edit: What was the battery’s SOC % at the start and end of your 30 mile ride?
 
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My perspective is based on limited experience with Bafang BBS01, 02, and HD motors, and extensive experience with Shimano, Bosch, Yamaha and Brose equipped bikes.

Each bike I rode called itself an electric mountain bike, but hands down the big four are far more suited to twisty, technical singletrack riding. Sure, Bafang motors are far more powerful, but they all had significant lags from when I stopped pedaling until the motor stopped propelling.

For me, this created dangerous situations on my favorite trails, which is why I sold the bikes with Bafang motors within months of acquiring them. On the other hand, I kept the Big 4 equipped eMTBs for more than a year each, putting several hundred or more joyful trail miles on all of them. They're far more torque-senitive, and stop propelling immediately when I stop pedaling.

Last winter I got a recumbent trike converted with a BBSO2, and IMO, it's a perfect application for that motor. I suppose that kind of extra power would also be useful on ATV type trails, but again, I think it's dangerous for tighter trails.
 
what cells do they use?

I noticed that a lot of Japanese ebike companies use Toshiba.
I believe Bridgestone and Yamaha packs have Toshiba cells, but I could be wrong.
I cant remember, so I started doing a search. While doing so, I came across this on Shimano’s website.

“Much like other SHIMANO STEPS batteries, the new BT-E8036, BT-E8035-L and BT-E8016 offer an extremely long lifetime. Even after 1000 full charge cycles (which would take 19 years of once a week charges to reach!) the new batteries will still hold 60% of their capacity. This means you can focus on the trail rather than on your battery indicator.”

For perspective, if you assume a very conservative 40 mile range per full charge cycle, that’s still 40,000 miles of pedaling fun!
 
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There's a lot of talk in this thread about batteries, while the OP was asking about Bafang. Last I checked, Bafang doesn't make or even sell batteries 🤔
 
There's a lot of talk in this thread about batteries, while the OP was asking about Bafang. Last I checked, Bafang doesn't make or even sell batteries 🤔
Another reason for dealers not to want to sell Bafang 😂. That's the rub, it's not just a motor, or even hardware, but also an ecosystem of supplier-brand-retailer-customer relationships and associated transactions, and every component it touches that isn't already modular and non proprietary, matters.
 
All this talk about 2/3 year batteries is amusing - the same talk was happening when I bought my giant ( yam pwx) 3 tears ago and I'm still trying to get my head around the numbers / what I should have been doing.

Meanwhile, after most rides I plug the bike in, the charger turns off when it decides it's time, the screen tells me ghe battery is at 100% and I'm still averaging 1-1.5% battery per km , ie seemingly similar range / presumably the battery is still working.

Perhaps that's why the big brands don't use bafang - the customers just want to ride without worrying about all that technical stuff.
 
There's a lot of talk in this thread about batteries, while the OP was asking about Bafang. Last I checked, Bafang doesn't make or even sell batteries 🤔
I think Ravi presented an argument against a relationship between the big brands and Bafang in this post in another thread: https://electricbikereview.com/foru...hanical-and-e-14-discussion.33122/post-267158

As Asher said ecosystem is everything. And batteries are a key part of that. Bafang not making or selling batteries is a hurdle.
 
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