BBSHD dies on higher power

You were right.
There is a VERY bad connection between the battery and the motor.
Im sorry that I checked it just now.
Should have been my first thing to do like everybody suggested.

I allready tried contact cleaner but it is still nor working better.
The battery has a seperate charging port.
No worries... You found the problem.
These problems are common with these builds. The contact cleaner is only a temporary solution, but it helps in diagnosis and is good to use in the future to keep things clean before they go bad.
As Thomas suggested, perhaps something like AFC50 or dielectric grease can help you protect the connections that you need access to. I would make those that you do not need to open occasionally as solid as possible with a butt crimp and then covered with heat shrink that has water proof adhesive inside.
You need to keep all connections as clean and protected as possible.
I asked about the separate charger port as this is a good place to check battery voltage to verify the problem is not internal.
Good luck... I hope you are on the road soon.
 
No worries... You found the problem.
These problems are common with these builds. The contact cleaner is only a temporary solution, but it helps in diagnosis and is good to use in the future to keep things clean before they go bad.
As Thomas suggested, perhaps something like AFC50 or dielectric grease can help you protect the connections that you need access to. I would make those that you do not need to open occasionally as solid as possible with a butt crimp and then covered with heat shrink that has water proof adhesive inside.
You need to keep all connections as clean and protected as possible.
I asked about the separate charger port as this is a good place to check battery voltage to verify the problem is not internal.
Good luck... I hope you are on the road soon.
Hey Team EBR. This thread is a shining example of when things go right. With peer review we all worked together to help someone. And our individual strengths grew as well. Go Team!
 
Thanks for your help but only the diagnosis has been done.

Now I have to restore the conncetion.
I think im going to solder.
But since the xt 60 connector is also damaged I would make the connection beetween battery and motor without a connector.

Would I have safety related problems if I soldered the battery directly, without a plug connection, to the motor?

I am charging my battery while it is attached to the bike so the charging aspect isn't a problem.
 
Thanks for your help but only the diagnosis has been done.

Now I have to restore the conncetion.
I think im going to solder.
But since the xt 60 connector is also damaged I would make the connection beetween battery and motor without a connector.

Would I have safety related problems if I soldered the battery directly, without a plug connection, to the motor?

I am charging my battery while it is attached to the bike so the charging aspect isn't a problem.

Edited:
No safety issue.... and the battery does have a switch as a means of disconnecting power for service and is removable from the base as well.
Personally I would use a Heat Shrink Butt Terminal instead of soldering.
In either case I would stagger the connections so they have a thinner profile when placed side by side and then wrap both with Waterproof Heat Shrink.
Also keep an eye on the battery connection from the pack to mounting base. These connections are vulnerable over time to vibration and environment conditions as well.
 
Edited:
No safety issue.... and the battery does have a switch as a means of disconnecting power for service and is removable from the base as well.
Personally I would use a Heat Shrink Butt Terminal instead of soldering.
In either case I would stagger the connections so they have a thinner profile when placed side by side and then wrap both with Waterproof Heat Shrink.
Also keep an eye on the battery connection from the pack to mounting base. These connections are vulnerable over time to vibration and environment conditions as well.
I will consider both options. Thank you!
 
Good recommendations all.
My personal preference is to solder from the inside of the motor to the inside of the housing that holds the base of the battery to the frame. It makes for a clean build.
In some cases I may agree and if done properly it can be a very clean installation.
But penetration of the motor and maintaining as good a seal as the factory installed wires requires an expert handling of the seal and proper materials and will definitely void any warranty.
Neatly done splices can come close to the same look and for his application is probably more appropriate.
 
Seems like every time I've done that I get bitten by another problem. That means cutting and resoldering No thanks. BUT it makes a clean look.!
 
I drill and seal my motor housings to re-route wires to achieve the cleanest builds I can. These builds are much nicer than my first builds. You are right, it is not for most people. It is my personal preference.
That sack is for the owner's phone and is not part of the bike.
Look Mom! No wires!
 

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I drill and seal my motor housings to re-route wires to achieve the cleanest builds I can. These builds are much nicer than my first builds. You are right, it is not for most people. It is my personal preference.
That sack is for the owner's phone and is not part of the bike.
Look Mom! No wires!
Who do you source the battery from? I’m wanting a couple for my park path bikes. I’m not happy with the vendors I’ve found. My preference are EM3ev but they have limited versions. Have you found a bottle case to build in?
 
I drill and seal my motor housings to re-route wires to achieve the cleanest builds I can. These builds are much nicer than my first builds. You are right, it is not for most people. It is my personal preference.
That sack is for the owner's phone and is not part of the bike.
Look Mom! No wires!
Definitely the cleanest builds I've seen!
But your bike doesn't look like it rides in the conditions that the OP does.
You my friend are a phenom!
 
Definitely the cleanest builds I've seen!
But your bike doesn't look like it rides in the conditions that the OP does.
You my friend are a phenom!
That is Katie's bike. It went from Specialized to my workshop within 20min. It was a huge pain because of the internal routing on her frame. I had to cut and mill the frame and create my own secondary motor mount from scratch. The fit was so tight that I had to dismantle the motor and install it on the bike in left and right halves. She is in the last months of life. I did not charge her labor. Wherever that bike eventually ends up, no LBS will have a clue on how to take apart the puzzle to replace the brake hose or rear brake housing. Katie loves it.
Sorry, I can discuss plenty of things but it has taken many years to establish my relationships with my suppliers. There are a lot of "Rolex" watches on the internet. And it is easy to reach for the wrong product to rub on your neck!
Check the photo closely.
 

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Who do you source the battery from? I’m wanting a couple for my park path bikes. I’m not happy with the vendors I’ve found. My preference are EM3ev but they have limited versions. Have you found a bottle case to build in?
Not sharable?:)
 
To me it sound more like a BMS problem or moisture inside the motor.
I built a bike for someone and it had this problem after he washed it with a hose. I was running rough and then died after he tried to ride it for 20 miles like that. The fix did end up being the controller. It blew one phase out of the controller. Bafang does not like a lot of water. If the gaskets are not perfect water can get into the motor and cause all kinds of funny things to happen.
 
I built a bike for someone and it had this problem after he washed it with a hose. I was running rough and then died after he tried to ride it for 20 miles like that. The fix did end up being the controller. It blew one phase out of the controller. Bafang does not like a lot of water. If the gaskets are not perfect water can get into the motor and cause all kinds of funny things to happen.
The OP definitely has a problem with his external connections as is clearly visible in his photos. These need to be addressed first in order to continue. Quite possible there is more than one issue as the bike was subject to sever weather conditions.
These motors (not the external connections) have a Rating of IP65 which should protect them from weather. And though IP65 suggests that it may protect against water ingres from a hose nozzle... depending on the direction, force and duration it is not absolute.
Knowing this I've washed my bike many times without issue.

ip_guide_26-13-32-31.png
 
Out of the dozen bikes I have built, half have not met the IP65 standard. If there was totally an issue with the connections, I would have expected heat damage as well. I did not really see that. I agree though that the connections are an issue.
 
Out of the dozen bikes I have built, half have not met the IP65 standard. If there was totally an issue with the connections, I would have expected heat damage as well. I did not really see that. I agree though that the connections are an issue.
Heat damage is typically more visible when the connection fails due to vibration. This failure looks to be mainly environmental... The end result being similar in symptoms though signs of arcing can be masked due to contamination.
I don't suggest that all will meet the IP65 standard as sold... I was just pointing out that one needs to take precautions when washing as that nozzle pressure can easily go beyond IP65 whether the motor is rated or not.
 
I've sold, supported, and done troubleshooting with hundreds of customers. Water sure can be a problem. But I really don't see the issue with most builders. Most don't ride in the rain and we've never approached anywhere near 50% failures with water intrusion.

I always suggest the seams be gone over with a high-quality RTV. Especially IF and all-weather rider. AND the wire entry with the rubber grommet should also be touched up with RTV.

I prefer JB Weld RTV because it's nice and soft and very flexible.
 
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