600-750w on PAS 1? Holy cow that is quite a lot. On my BBSHD I can show around 50w. No more than 100w. On PAS9 it puts out about 450w. Now, on throttle it can sustain 1750-ish watts thanks to its 52v battery and 30a current limit. But thats throttle.
Whatever it is you are doing, undo it
100 kilometers is about 62 miles in the Imperialist units we use here, and thats do-able on my bike for sure. However I have a 35ah battery ... and its a cargo bike. As was noted earlier on, range estimates carry a LOT of variables including - at some point - a tipping point for battery longevity vs. weight.
I can't tell you that, but I can tell you what I do.
Not a lot of science apparent in this speed % progression, but it is the product of a fair bit of trial and error. I picked 100% for PAS9 and reduced it by 7 at each level down until I stopped at PAS1. What this does is, in conjunction with the other settings on the Pedal Assist tab, create motor behavior that is more conducive to dialing back power when I am at high cadence while also at lower assist settings. I usually run at PAS 3 for a normal cruise. If I decide I need more assist the settings give me a steady increase while at the same time providing more and more insulation from the current decay and keep current pullbacks. I'm a lot less likely to want to conserve power if I am pouring on the higher pas settings out of some need to crank them up.
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Start current is super gentle because I prefer not to replace chains and cogs. Slow start mode is gentle for the same reason. Current decay is aggressive, and the keep current percentage is unusually low. My thinking is if I can spin the crankarms I am demonstrating by doing so I do not need a lot of assist. So the motor cuts it back. As cadence decreases power comes back in again. All of these settings reduce power consumption and increase range.
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Nothing particularly noteworthy here just note the gentle throttle startup percentage, because I like buying parts as infrequently as possible.
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