Okay, more of an update after running the new settings for nearly 800 miles. First off I did not like the reduction in start current and went back to 20% from 5%. My bike is just too heavy to benefit.
Acceleration is lower but considerably smoother. It's not to the point that I will scrap the new settings as I like more than I lost.
Best benefit is much more steady on the power. I am noticing a gain of about 8-10% on useable Watt hours from the battery pack. I have slowed down a bit but not enough to explain the savings.
My setup may be yielding some answers and I hope that I am not just grabbing at straws. My meter reads out continuously in watts battery draw and voltage. It also reads out in total watt hours and amp hours.
I have a big battery pack, so most of the time my battery sag is residual at 1-2 volts. I have always been puzzled by the fact that when I divide the watt hours by the amp hours I get a voltage number below anything that I have witnessed on the meter. Prior to the changes I would calculate actual sag numbers of around 3-3.2 volts. about a full volt less than I observed on the meter. Todays ride was 890 watt hours divided by 16.7 amp hours = 53.3 volts. I started with 58 volts and am down to 54 volts. The average would be 56 volts. That is an actual sag of 2.7 volts.
I am observing watts continuous as far less variation and calculating lower sag numbers. I am concluding that the changes have reduced voltage spikes that my meter is too slow to show but it is showing up as steadier wattage output.
My meter is great for having an idea of how much battery I have left and observing the voltage sag gives me an idea if all four batteries are on line or one or two and not properly connected. I don't want an off line battery with higher voltage to jiggle and suddenly come on line. Just part of what you have to do when running a poor mans parallel battery system.
I agree that that these settings do have a few points I find lacking at times compared to previous... But I have yet to find a solution that is perfect in all my riding situations. But as you say, I feel the benefits of this set seem to far outway the cons.
In regards to acceleration, I have a few ways of handling this. On the few occasions I find it lacking during a ride, a quick tap 1 up the PAS scale usually takes care of my needs. 2 up and I better be paying attention. I've gotten so use to Up/Down shifting my PAS that I do it second nature now. My terrain is constantly changing and I'm always ready to adapt if I want to stay fluid. I think it adds a layer of enjoyment to the ride as down shifting into a tight turn does while driving. Keep in mind I'm using a incremental Speed increase in PAS levels not Current.
Some other observations are... If I continue pedaling as I Up PAS it accelerates more aggressively than if I pause a split second. This gives me two ways of implementing a PAS change.
To me the benefits of smoothness and efficiency are well worth these minor steps.. especially since they have a simple work around and I feel it's impossible to get it to do exactly what I want in all situations without my input no matter the settings. At a certain point you need to know how to manipulate a machine as it's reactions to input are pretty much static.
Curious... Do you plan on implementing a higher Stop Decay with the other bikes you manage?
If you have already, what was the consensus?
As to the Ultra guys...
No offense but I don't feel that your comments here are helpful as your not using a BBS, not using an elevated Stop Decay, most don't have Sport or Eco modes and anyone that might benefit from your experiences will probably never see your comments
YMMV
@voidedwarranty ...where did you end up with your settings?
