The Shimano 11 x 40 on my machine is all steel gears except the 40T (low gear) which is alloy.
Unbeknownst, I had a broken slide and the battery didn't fully lock.
It felt locked. Key fully turned, but a bump and it came off, smashed into and bent my ring gear which snapped my chain that immediately locked up.
Stopping, I did the coolest headstand you'll ever see - damn near total vertical - the bike spun around 45 degrees on the front wheel, rear came down, bounced, the entire bike jumped sideways like an angry tiger, stopped dead and fell over in a semi-controlled heap. Two minor bruises - though I nearly laughed to death.
I was like: Damn I'm good !!! (but I'm not). I've lifted the tail stopping a few times, but this was Circus stuff.
When I turned 70 I resolved to stop daredeviling. I have horrible priors. So, I tell myself it was an accident. Well damn, it was, but to be honest it was a lot of fun and it's why I ride.
Lucky for me this machine has such robust handling. I've been clipped by a lane changing happy-hour driver and bounced a couple feet sideways without losing control or suffering damage.
-
I'd mentioned the battery coming loose here on EBR and was tard-flacked for being an evil loser, having not locked the battery. LOL. Oh the personal, emotional distress that I was such and idiot. Anxiety attacks. EBR PTSD.
Now, if someone told me that happened to them, I'd stress they must closely check the tabs on the slide - not they were an idiot for leaving the battery unlocked. But then I'm crash dummy graduate, experienced in the matter - not a biddy hen in a pecking order.
Riders having never felt an X1 controlled M620 have no idea of the power.
I recently tried my builder friends M620 Frey (it 's for sale). Seriously?
The highest setting felt like my L1 Economy Mode.
He's mad because I wouldn't let him spin Gumbo. Nobody rides my girl but me.
I'm like
yeah we're both V8's, but that's a 160hp Chevy 350 and this is a 650hp 785ftlbs torque 427 FI Cobra.
I just know he'd go around the block and flip her into sports modes. That's the '
it's not nice to mess with mother nature' place.
And BTW: You guy's running 3000watt X1's blow my mind. That's the Vanguard to Valhalla.
That article on how to use a mid-drive stuff is largely for 2019, off-road geared bikes.
Correct shifting technique is a given. He's 100% backwards. Most cassettes are steel, but for the largest cogs.
It's a joke, right? Right? He can't be serious. Well maybe for 6 speeds. I'm too inexperienced with archaic tech to know.
The Archer D1x make shifting easy. Once adjusted correctly, I can even pull off double shifts perfectly, but their vids are information-less. Vapid. Tell me how cool I can be, but not how to get there.
You must calculate and import the % difference between each gear ratio into the 50 point settings. 'Duh', huh?
Hint: Most are 1.1 - 1.18% change; the % change difference rounded translates to how far the Archer yanks the derailleur in or out.
Trusting my own math, I didn't bother to search for a table, or ask around. Someone (who's never owned one) would insist I need to pray and douse it with chicken blood; maybe change my chain - to a type
inconsistent with my Shimano 11sp drivetrain. Go Mix n' Match, Crunchie-Junkie, Hybrid hot-dog - 'cuz nobody told them Shimano deliberately sabotages mixing parts.
So I dumped all my '
this feels right' settings, imported the %'s into the gear spacing program and it's so damn good, to be honest I'm flabbergasted.
I've been using the D1x a year and it was
pretty nice. This is a
night and day difference.
Oddly, it felt about '
okay' on the stand, shifting not in the least impressive. I was disappointed and '
resetting to what I know worked' before testing the new parts crossed my mind.
Oh ye of little faith !!!
It's sheer perfection on the road. I'm breaking the parts in, so only Eco 1, 2 right now, but it's flawless.
Hopefully, I can break more stuff and share the experience to enough folks so they don't, thus always giving back more than I take and feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
On disassembly I found the Shimano cassette's
alloy (40T) gear is worn. The rest, all
steel gears are hardly scratched.
The
alloy ring shows
major wear on the
inside. None on the outside. The
chain is still
hardly stretched.
I also took this opportunity to perfectly size a new Shimano chain and replaced the Wolf Tooth 50T with a WT 52T.
For This Bike a 52T requires 138 Links. My measurement method is the angle of the derailleur at 11 and 40 cogs. Too tight and too loose are apparent. I used pieces of old chain and connectors to sample 136 and 140 as well.
The
Bafang Fat spider appears to be
one gear off, w/ chain-line a tad inboard, favoring 5th gear.
6th (center cog), 7th, 8th and 9th are within the (recommended) '3 degrees limit'. 10th is right on the line and 11th gear is +4 degrees off centerline.
Yup. Just like members here have said:'10 and 11 are getting beat to death' - well along those lines and it'show I see it too. Even the ring gear's wear is focused on the inside.
A 3mm offset shim and 8.5mm bolts would favor gears 8, 9 and 10, with far less stress on 11.
Since I don't crawl around in the dirt (lol), riding at 15 - 20mph the 1st gear is not a concern. The Archer will let me set the spacing to accommodate the excess chain offset, but the chain-line will be rough on low gears.
I'm 197, but have reason to suspect the
Bafang Mountain Bike spider is also short.
I've some ideas, wonder how other owners have worked it and any long term results.
If you have a throttle and it's limited to 'low wattage/ 20mph max/ no torque sensor when engaged' (class II specs) it will save a lot of wear taking off from a stop. If you disagree, it's because you have never relied on one for that purpose. I'm amazed wizened riders think a 65lb e-bike is the same as a 28lb bicycle.
Replaced the slide and damaged battery case, ring-gear w/ ti bolts and identical Shimano Xt/Ultegra Cn-Hg701 chain.
Spacer is next.
Pip pip and tally ho !!!
Fn'F
