Bafang RM G06 series

LimboJim

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Does anyone know how long the rear-hub, 170-195 mm compatible G06 series motors have been available? It's offered in 250/350/500 & 750W power ratings - were the 350W versions available before the 500/750W ones?
 
Sondors used the 350W version earlier this year, so the G06 line has been around since last Winter, at least. I found a website that seems to have Bafang's entire line, which is where I saw the different wattage levels available for the special hub motor series for fat bikes.

I was asking when the G06 series became available because the Radrover just switched its hub motors from Hengtai to Bafang, and when I asked Rad Power Bikes, they said it (the G06) wasn't available when they began production. (Subsequently they said they hadn't tested it in time, so I guess it was available.)

What's bugging me is that they advertise a 750W motor - with no mention of "peak" levels or controller programming - but mine just arrived with "500W" clearly stamped on the new Bafang motor. Again, the G06 series comes in 250/350/500 & 750W versions, but a Rad CSR wrote to me that "the power is related to the motor controller output, not the rating of the hub motor from the manufacturer."

So now my questions are: Why would they not use a motor that's actually rated for what they're advertising it as (and demanding from it), especially when one's available? Am I getting less than promised because, according to Rad's CSR, "we program our controllers to provide a 750 watt continuous output power until the temperature of the motor controller exceeds safe levels and the speed/power will automatically reduce."

I'd wager that the 500W motor will reach such limits before a 750W motor would, but these are probably questions for an electrician or engineer, not the CSR... Still, if anyone reading this can answer, have at it!
 
I'd wager that the 500W motor will reach such limits before a 750W motor would

Not necessarily. Most (if not all) motors will run at higher power settings. I think what they are telling you is accurate. MAC motors will run at much higher power levels then they are rated and the 750W Bafang mid-drive is physically the same as the 500W, just driven at a higher output. I like LCD's that have a Watt output function like the Grin CA3 or the Bafang C965, you can monitor power input. The only real downside is heat and the higher rated motors use heavier gauge wire for the windings to handle the higher power levels.

Court J.
 
The specs that kick around say the controller is 22 amps peak, 15 continuous. If you take that 15A and multiply by the 48V battery, it's about right.

I think there is a wattage reading on the display, somewhere. If so, check that while climbing. If you really push the motor, like up a real hill, check how warm/hot it is getting. In theory you can draw over 1000 watts, given the battery and controller.

You can buy a cheap watt meter, if it's not on the display.

http://lunacycle.com

It seems like Sondors went with this motor while he was in China. Some people thought it was an upgraded spec, being a Bafang. People seem to get around 700 watts with his version, but it's a 36v system.
 
Thanks for the input. The Radrover comes with a display that includes wattage, but I don't think it shows temps - I'll double check on my next ride. I was seeing peak reads of over 800W during my last trek on it, but my local trails have up & down options so I can avoid long climbs. I assume that pushing any motor too hard can fry it, and putting more leg into hills is better for me, too.

Sondors' LCD reads temps, but they advertised 350W and that's what's stamped on the motor, so I'm satisfied with that purchase and am less concerned about overloading it. And I'm not dissin' the RR; it's a quality product that I hope to enjoy immensely for many years! I just wish they installed the Bafang motor that's labeled 750W as advertised.
 
I recently received the Bafang RM G306 rear hub with a 3.25" rim. . Have not installed it yet, but it looks like a nice motor. The hub is stencilled 350W. Hub width is 3.70 inches if you want to compare with your Radover.

I jbew this was used on the Sondors, and Sondors owners claim 20mph. I felt that that was more than enough for my fat bike application. It came with a tiny 17A controller.
 
Thanks for the input. The Radrover comes with a display that includes wattage, but I don't think it shows temps - I'll double check on my next ride. I was seeing peak reads of over 800W during my last trek on it, but my local trails have up & down options so I can avoid long climbs. I assume that pushing any motor too hard can fry it, and putting more leg into hills is better for me, too.

Sondors' LCD reads temps, but they advertised 350W and that's what's stamped on the motor, so I'm satisfied with that purchase and am less concerned about overloading it. And I'm not dissin' the RR; it's a quality product that I hope to enjoy immensely for many years! I just wish they installed the Bafang motor that's labeled 750W as advertised.
Jim, I might be mistaken, but I think the RR was offered both in the U.S. and Canada and Canada's nominal watt limit is 500. Possibly the limit must be labeled that way for up north, but max watts of well over 750 is just fine. I wouldn't get too hung up on the number game, if the bike is up to the level of performance you want. Distance, cruise speed and hill climbing ability are far more important metrics in my book.
 
I assume that pushing any motor too hard can fry it, and putting more leg into hills is better for me, too.

Absolutely! Give the motor the "old fashion" temperature reading after climbing a hill; touch it. You'll get a pretty good sense of how hot is normal after a few times. I always try to avoid high power settings at slow speeds going up hill. I found that high settings and slow speeds translates into a hot motor very quickly......

Court J.
 
I finally decided to get the RM G06.750 hub motor, or at least G06.500 because I don't want to wait too long, but I can't seem to find it anywhere retail.
Few listings in Asia have them in the title, but only G06.350 in description.
I did find them wholesale, 1000 minimum order. I guess people want to clear stocks before restocking with new motors.
 
Put a query into cnebikes.com and ask if maybe they can get you a 750W motor and sell you one.

The Bafang spec sheets do indicate differences in RPM between the 250 and 750 watt versions, so must be some winding changes?. Otherwise, you could get the 350W from Luna for $140.

I bought the 350w motorwheel/controller from them and they took paypal, so I felt safe. It arrived within a few weeks.
 
Thanks Harry.
I finally received an email from them. I'm not native english , so this is a bit confusing.

"About this G06 kit, we have rotary motor and cassette motor for choice, which one do you want?"
Is he talking about geared hub and direct drive?

"And about axle size of this motor, we also have 170mm and 190mm for choice, which one do you want?"
Just when I thought I know a little about ebikes, now I'm lost again... Can you please help?
I think it's the frame rear hub width... If so, I have no idea what I want, because I don't have a frame in mind yet.
 
Per the Bafang drawing, the distance between the two ends of the g06 motors, which includes the freewheel threads, is 175 mm. The total axle length from end to end is 235 mm. The dropout, which is the distance between the two flanges on many fatbikes is 175mm. My fatbike was 175mm. I didn't know they made 190 mm. A 190mm axle will probably not fit in a 175 dropout unless the frame is steel and can be bent, which is not good for the frame.
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Rotary vs Cassette? I think they mean free wheel vs cassette . See bikeman4u's explanation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0iqDq8MYQ4
I see the print shows a cassette. I bought a motor with rim and they sent me a free wheel motor, but no free wheel. I already had several free wheels though,
 
I'm sure that they meant either Freewheel or cassette. My G06 On my 2020 Voltbike Yukon 750 is a Freewheel version. Also it's the G060.500D motor. On the screen you can see the power output. In stock its set to output 780w ish. I can crank it up 19A. On a full battery it's just over 1000w out of the motor. I will keep an eye on temperature but so far all I notice is more power, torque, and battery consumption lol. I want to know if the 750w version is physically different at all from the 500w. Is there any benefit to running it.? If I were to run the 750w version at the same amperage and voltage levels as the 500w motor. Will I see any benefit using the 750 vs the 500? Or is it just a matter of driving the motors at different power levels to achieve the rated output? I'm worried over powering say a 500w to 1200w etc will damage it. But I guess it's really just a matter of temperature no?
 
Guys, not going to get involved in the why/how/right/wrongs's on why RAD rates their 750 watt Bafang's the way they do. It is what it is.

For those looking for the differences in the 350-750 Bafang gear drives, I would suggest you check out one of Bolton's videos where he has them out of their cases for you to see first hand. It's a pretty dramatic demo if you haven't seen it yet..... If you're in a hurry, you can go right to it at 1:50 or so-

 
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I'm sure that they meant either Freewheel or cassette. My G06 On my 2020 Voltbike Yukon 750 is a Freewheel version. Also it's the G060.500D motor. On the screen you can see the power output. In stock its set to output 780w ish. I can crank it up 19A. On a full battery it's just over 1000w out of the motor. I will keep an eye on temperature but so far all I notice is more power, torque, and battery consumption lol. I want to know if the 750w version is physically different at all from the 500w. Is there any benefit to running it.? If I were to run the 750w version at the same amperage and voltage levels as the 500w motor. Will I see any benefit using the 750 vs the 500? Or is it just a matter of driving the motors at different power levels to achieve the rated output? I'm worried over powering say a 500w to 1200w etc will damage it. But I guess it's really just a matter of temperature no?

I might be able to help here a little bit. I can tell you beyond ANY doubt I am no electrical engineer. This is all my opinion, based on some messing around I have done. That in mind, if we compare a nominally rated 500w motor to a nominally rated 750w motor, all else being equal-

With both motors pulling 500 watts indicated on the display, they're pulling the same amount of power from the battery, so they will have the same battery range - again ALL else being equal.

The 750 will not use more power than a 500 while doing the same job. The 750 WILL have more power available, and will be using more power when you are using that extra available power.

If we jack the power up to 1000w indicated, the 500 will overheat before the 750 does. Neither motor will be damaged unless it's overheated. A short shot of 1000w is not going to hurt either motor.

The 750 will likely use a little less power than a 500 in city traffic and on trails as it has more "grunt" than the 500. It is able to just power over a slight incline that might require you to use additional throttle on the 500.

The 750 will smoke a 500 in a drag race....

All this in mind, my choice would always be the largest motor available - knowing full well it's not going to use any more power than a smaller one while doing the same job, AND, it's going to have extended capabilities. Currently riding a RAD City with a conservatively rated 1000w MAC 12t geared hub, that's giving me a range of 35 miles easily on a stock RAD battery. I see NO downside to having this amount of power available - and it will easily climb any paved hill I point it at with my 300 lb butt on it . -Al
 
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