Bafang BBS02 resistance

Still very strange I can turn crank arms with finger in normal pedalling rotation in the stand but when riding it's really hard. Even in first gear.

And I ride a fixie with 46x15 and that is easier even loaded up.
 
With the chain removed in your previous test, it seems to me you've already proven there is little potential for anything to be wrong mechanically with the BBS02. I'm at a loss to come up with any reason it might be "really hard" with everything hooked up and weight on it. From where I'm sitting it sounds like you are over thinking this? Maybe just put a few miles on it to see if it's something you get used to. Keeping an eye on it of course, but ride it.
 
Does this extra resistance means the motor is fighting this so it's wasting power?

I don't think I'm over thinking it, also means that there is far less assistance going on as fair amount of my effort is used to overcome the resistance.

I've done about 60 miles so farm.

It's not the jockey wheels, freehub, brakes, or wheel hubs.
 
Are your rides to date made under power, or are you riding it in PAS 0? Have you tried bumping up the tire pressures to compensate for the extra weight being carried?
 
That's it for me. I'm out of ideas.
 
I think it could be the internal bearings that are too tight? I'll try loosening them (alot) then see if it's easy then tighten to right amount. Is the bafang tool unique or will a BMX freewheel tool work, they look similar, but is the bafang tool a bit smaller.

I'll order new clutch and bearings whilst I'm at it (under warranty)
 
I think it could be the internal bearings that are too tight? I'll try loosening them (alot) then see if it's easy then tighten to right amount. Is the bafang tool unique or will a BMX freewheel tool work, they look similar, but is the bafang tool a bit smaller.

I'll order new clutch and bearings whilst I'm at it (under warranty)
I can’t imagine how the bearings could be “too tight”. That makes zero sense.
 
If they're like cup and cone bearings they can be. Same as headset bearings.
I believe that if you look, they're going to be ball bearings. Further, I'll be surprised if preload is adjustable, but you might be able to come up with something there on your own.

At the very least, pulling it down for a close inspection may give you some confidence in the design.
 
I'll try loosening those two parts within the first two mins of that video looks like locking ring

That might sort it
 
No just no.

Explain.

I've backed it off a little, I think it's improved it. I reckon compressing bearings too much.

Removed the outer cover then inner locking washer then loosened off inner a smidge then refitted outer locking and cover
 
No just no.

The inner locking pulls the shaft towards the non drive side, so if it's too much it'll squash bearings. Then the second locking tightens up against that.

Why is that any difference than this.
 

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I've never seen this as an issue. I just deleted my customer support emails and found I answered 11,000 support calls. messages, and emails while helping Doug at California eBike. I've never seen this issue. The posted bottom bracket attachments are not relevant.
 
What's so funny Tom, you offered no help, I had suspicion those two internal locking washers are like old school bottom bracket, and headsets and I was right.

Toghtning up a tiny bit more made the crank harder to turn .

So stop complete na complete eediot and offer constructibe advice
 
If it’s a new motor why no warranty service?

Your issue is more likely unrelated to a bearing issue. There’s something missing in this story. Laughing because despite your claiming a bearing issue you confirmed it made no difference.

I’m thinking there is something you are completely missing and/or not sharing.

Who sold you the motor?
 
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