Bafang 750 Watt, Integrated Wheel, Rear Hub Fat Bike Motor

[Bravesst]

I'm new to ebikes and took my first plunge with a retro beach cruiser 20 inch fat bike, the Addmotor Motan M-70. I am enjoying this bike for all it's worth, but am frustrated at not reaching advertised performance of 28+ mph. I'd also like to extend battery life, or open to possibly travelling with two batteries. The bike has plenty of hill climbing ability and torque, but won't budge past 21 or 22 mph, even with the addition of a 52 inch chainring was 48). The bike came with a 48 volt, 14.5 amp battery as well.

Goals: go faster and further, be able to pedal at higher speeds (or not).

Thanks In Advance!

 

[AHicks]

I don't know for sure, but my bet is the bike has a speed limit of 20 mph set for it. If they say it's good for 28, my bet is the current speed limit will need to be set to the newer higher limit of 28 in it's setup. How to do that is likely in the owner's manual, but if not, give them a call.

 

[Bravesst]

Hi @AHicks, thanks for the advice. I reached out to Motan and they say there is a video explaining how to do this, and will send the link. The manual tells you how to set to 40 kph, which I did, and got no change.

We'll see what video says. Any ideas about upgrading battery (they don't recommend going over 48v).

 

[Bravesst]

@Timpo Yes, 52 tooth not inches . This had an effect, but not really on top speed - it allows me to pedal while in 7th gear and level 4 assist (5 if up a hill) and feel some resistance. This must save on wattage.

I never expected 32 mph, but did expect 28 or at the very least 25+. The manufacturer still states this is possible. I'm supposed to be getting a link to a video that explains it, but I bet it's just the same old video on how to use the display to adjust wheel size, mph or kph, and max speed, which I already set to 40 kph.

A side note, when riding this thing is zippy, plenty of acceleration. The display has a watt gauge, and I can see my watt usage. I can break 1000 watts but usually cruise along under 300.

 

[Explorer-1]

The display should be the way to go, but it should go higher than 40km. they may of had to start shipping them with a jumper to lock class 2. Although seems strange for a US bike, but.... did you power off and power back on and check that your setting change stayed?

 

[Mike_V]

Zippy performance, easy riding.
You do have the 750W Fat Tire Bafang motor because ( it's marked ) & the torque is evident, which is better than any 250 300 or 500 from s.o.b.
You will not reach any higher speed than when you lift the wheel and spin freely ~ 21MPH
That's it.
You will go uphill and down all day without overheating, it's a 750.

 

[AHicks]

Zippy performance, easy riding.
You do have the 750W Fat Tire Bafang motor because ( it's marked ) & the torque is evident, which is better than any 250 300 or 500 from s.o.b.
You will not reach any higher speed than when you lift the wheel and spin freely ~ 21MPH
That's it.
You will go uphill and down all day without overheating, it's a 750.

Yup, checking your no load top speed is likely an excellent suggestion to see if it's a setup restriction holding your top speed down, or if something else is going on - like a flat tire or dragging brake?

 

[Bravesst]

Yup, checking your no load top speed is likely an excellent suggestion to see if it's a setup restriction holding your top speed down, or if something else is going on - like a flat tire or dragging brake?

It's nothing like that. Brakes are properly adjusted, tires inflated to about 20 (max 30 fat tire).

This is a fat tire bike with tons of torque, and I believe it's the SAME MOTOR that *Juiced* and other fat tire manufacturers use, who also advertise 28 to 32 mph (and reading satisfied customers, achieve it). Addmotor (Vivian) sent me a video on how to adjust speed, tire size, which I've already seen (and done). The display allows you to set to 40 kph, but the bike still won't budge past 32. I think they don't want you to go faster.

I've also messed with drive train, replacing the 48 tooth with a 52, and a 56 is on the way. Now, in 4 level PA, I can pedal at a normal cadence (for me) in top gear (7), and cruise at 18. I'm hoping with the 56 tooth, I can cruise at 20+ in level 5 PA and 7th gear.

With a 750 watt motor, 48 volt / 14.5 amp battery, on a bike that can literally do wheelies, why should top speed be this limited, even with a larger chainring.

With that said, what can I do to remedy this? Change motor, controller, battery? Possible programming change by some super IT guy?

I love this bike and just need to have it reach its potential so I can actually really start enjoying it!

 

[Bravesst]

@Timpo
a bolt on kit?

 

[AHicks]

It's nothing like that. Brakes are properly adjusted, tires inflated to about 20 (max 30 fat tire).

This is a fat tire bike with tons of torque, and I believe it's the SAME MOTOR that *Juiced* and other fat tire manufacturers use, who also advertise 28 to 32 mph (and reading satisfied customers, achieve it). Addmotor (Vivian) sent me a video on how to adjust speed, tire size, which I've already seen (and done). The display allows you to set to 40 kph, but the bike still won't budge past 32. I think they don't want you to go faster.

I've also messed with drive train, replacing the 48 tooth with a 52, and a 56 is on the way. Now, in 4 level PA, I can pedal at a normal cadence (for me) in top gear (7), and cruise at 18. I'm hoping with the 56 tooth, I can cruise at 20+ in level 5 PA and 7th gear.

With a 750 watt motor, 48 volt / 14.5 amp battery, on a bike that can literally do wheelies, why should top speed be this limited, even with a larger chainring.

With that said, what can I do to remedy this? Change motor, controller, battery? Possible programming change by some super IT guy?

I love this bike and just need to have it reach its potential so I can actually really start enjoying it!

But have you lifted the rear tire to see what your speedo reads with no load?

Agreed, pretty sure the bike is capable of 28mph. If it won't turn that with no load, I think it fair to assume there's an electronic restriction that's been placed on it. Defeating restrictions like that, IF there is one in place, all take different procedures and/or passwords, depending on the make of the controller and display. Some of those have been cracked, but most have not. They remain proprietary.

One thing to keep in mind maybe, is that your bike has 20" tires. That in itself could be your issue. All else being equal, they aren't going to go as fast as we might expect a 26-29" tire to go....

To get around any restrictions that may be on your bike, you can go with an aftermarket controller/display combo - which come unrestricted. The motor will get whatever the battery has available - or you can put your own restrictions in place. YOUR call, not the OEM's.

Bolton supplies a plug and play kit for use on RAD (and Sonders) bikes. The same components he uses are available on the open market, for less money, but you would have to match up everything on your own. Could be done for less than 100 bucks, IF, you are up for the challenge of something like that. Can supply more details on request. I've done this very successfully on 3 bikes now, so I have a pretty good understanding of what's involved. -Al

 

[Bravesst]

@AHicks I'm all in on this. I'm on the website now trying to figure this out. I'm have decent electronic skills (can solder), and am a woodworker by trade.

Is this it?

>> radpower upgrade kit

 

[AHicks]

OK, I believe there are others, but this is what I've been using, and have been since about a year before Bolton started supplying his brand specific plug and play kits. Everything is KT based, which have a pretty good reputation. Check out the website -

PSWPOWER.com - Professional Electric Bicycle Parts

PSWPOWER.com, Professional polution free electric bicycle parts dealer. Our products made in china, Our team are thinking CREATIVE Always!

www.pswpower.com

Select products tab and go down to controllers-

Note they have a cafeteria style option list of attractively priced components - that will plug right in and work with their controller. I would use them where possible (saves you screwing around matching wires and connectors existing vs. new). Make sure you order an LCD display! The one you have will not be compatible, and you'll need one to access the controller programming.

Where I'm not going to be of much use, because I have never done a Bafang hub drive, is regarding whether or not to use one of the Bafang based kits here, or if so, which one.

All the ones I've done have been for other brand rear hubs, not Bafang specific. Pretty sure they would work, but a Bafang kit would have a prewired plug that might save you the trouble of matching all those wires.

One other thing, I would get a controller with a little head room. Maybe the next size bigger than what you need - to provide a safety margin.

Last, if you decide to e-mail them, it's best not to ask more than one question at a time. -Al

 

[AHicks]

@AHicks I'm all in on this. I'm on the website now trying to figure this out. I'm have decent electronic skills (can solder), and am a woodworker by trade.

Is this it?

>> radpower upgrade kit

The "upgrade kits" have RAD specific connectors preinstalled. My bet would be there are significant differences between RAD's harness and the one on your bike.

That said, ALL of the benefits from those kits would be found in the PSWpower kits as well. Same hardware, but without the RAD proprietary ends.

 

[Bravesst]

You've been a huge help. The unit rated for 750 watts specifically says it's the fat tire MX US motor. The larger unit says MX US, but doesn't mention fat tire. Is there a difference? Would the larger controller (35 amp) have potential to harm the motor?

Sorry for newbie question, propriety ends jacks / connectors? When you say harness, you mean wires coming from motor to controller?

I am ready to purchase, once I decide.

 

[harryS]

Ok I just search for Addmotor Motan M-70 and looks like they're advertised to go 32mph .. so 22mph is definitely too slow

You might have seen a users youtube video. Admotor commented that the bike is limited to 24 mph. I personally think 32mph is speedometer error. The displays aren't that precise for putting in wheel diameter, especially for fat tire.

His bike should do 24 mph though on 48V. My Ecotric fat 20 will do that, although it doesn't get much faster if I raise the volts. It does about 25mph on 52V. I think my bike could go a little faster, but I don't have the patience to wait for the speed to build and am too lazy to lay down and cut the wind resistance.

 

[AHicks]

You've been a huge help. The unit rated for 750 watts specifically says it's the fat tire MX US motor. The larger unit says MX US, but doesn't mention fat tire. Is there a difference? Would the larger controller (35 amp) have potential to harm the motor?

Sorry for newbie question, propriety ends jacks / connectors? When you say harness, you mean wires coming from motor to controller?

I am ready to purchase, once I decide.

Your first question, what is the difference, is beyond me. No first hand Bafang experience and I'd hate to steer you wrong.

No harm using the bigger controller. Might pay off if some day you decide to go with a BIG geared hub motor.

Ends/connectors = where the wires from one "thing" plug in to another "thing". There's no such thing as a universal connector, or even a standard, therefor expecting the thing you have in your hand to plug into what you need is not something you can take for granted.

The "harness" = all of the wires and connectors collectively

Proprietary= something specially built by the manufacturer for your bike. Not available anywhere else. The opposite of generic.

Bonus - the wire colors are generally similar, but there is NO assurance they will match either. What you can assume, is something like a PAS sensor for instance, will have 3 wires, and those 3 wires will have similar functions, no matter who supplies it. Like one will be + (positive), one will be - (negative), and the 3rd will be the sensor wire. This will be true on both sides, the controller side, and the sensor itself. Your job is to match those functions (positive, negative, and sensor). With a digital voltmeter, it can take longer to write out how it's done vs. the time it takes to do it. Same goes for the throttle and the brakes. Then you get to do the motor!

One nice thing gained from this experience, is you will gain an understanding of how your bike's electronics work way better than most!

Viewed one wire at a time, there's no rocket science involved - though when viewed as an entire functioning bike, some are convinced there is rocket science involved.... Just ask all the bike shops that are not interested in working on an e-bike - ANY e-bike!

Oh, and you can plan on anything coming from China to take 2-4 weeks. Just be patient on the tracking early on. -Al

 

[rich c]

"Motan M-70 Retro Electric Cruiser Beach Fat Bike" That model name is like a list of hashtags or a search optimization conglomeration. Did they make that mini bike frame any longer so they could put all that on a decal? You don't mention if you are pretty heavy or not. Lots of variables, including the rider, that can hinder performance.

 

[tomjasz]

RAD specific connectors preinstalled.

I recently assisted a RAD owner in sourcing a RAD throttle. The RAD Higo connectors are oriented the opposite of BBSxx Higo connectors.

 

[Bravesst]

Thanks all, I appreciate the help. @Timpo, @AHicks and everybody else. I have a lot to learn. I believe my connectors look just like the ones above, but will unplug and check. I was trying to order on PSP and they won't allow me to select shipping to USA. They say I'll be able to order on Monday (all other countries work except USA). I don't see anything with a tail light plug, so I may go back to Bolton and pre-order their newest unit which ships in July.

Yeah, this bike is long, but so are my legs. I'm six feet, 180, and 62 y/o, pretty fit (owned a gym for a time), but somewhat beat up, retired New York City firefighter. I needed an upright position, and this bike was the only one I could find that accommodates longer legs (various reviews). I can fully extend my legs when pedaling, rare for a beach cruiser. So no, they didn't make the bike longer for the logo.

If I go by my GPS, I can hit 24 mph, balls to the wall, with my 52 tooth chainring.

I've also received warnings from both Journeybikes (seller) and Addmotor, not to make any changes to electric components (including battery, motor, controller), which could damage the bike. What are you thoughts?

 

[AHicks]

1. Do NOT plan on the connectors that come on a Bolton kit to work with the ones on your bike. That would be an amazing coincidence.

2. The negative reaction from the manf. regarding swapping out electrical components (or any other modification) is pretty typical. For warranty purposes, you would NOT tell the bike manf. that the bike has been modified. What they don't know won't hurt you!