Aventon step through commuter charger!

If you're looking for a charger for the Level or Level.2 we have them available on our website.
 
Welcome aboard!

Not sure what you mean by "commuter charger", but the safest option for all concerned — including your neighbors — is to get the official Aventon charger for your bike.

Ebike batteries have a built-in battery management system (BMS) to protect against overcharging and other potentially dangerous conditions. Some are better than others. Many of the NYC ebike battery fires have been linked to bad battery-charger combos.

So, you want a charger that works with your specific BMS. Since the industry is still far from standardization on BMS and charger designs, can't guarantee BMS compatibility with a third-party charger.
 
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Take a photo of the back of the charger & post it along with the serial number on the bottom of the bike so we can help you further. That noted, many looking for a charger are stuck with ill-obtained bike. Beware when a bike is sold without the proper charger.
 
Ebike batteries have a built-in battery management system (BMS) to protect against overcharging ....
A common recommendation when charging a battery is to shut the charger off when the green light comes on. Does the above statement cover this? Would the BMS associated with any UL certified battery do this? Like a Ride1up Turris?
 
A common recommendation when charging a battery is to shut the charger off when the green light comes on. Does the above statement cover this? Would the BMS associated with any UL certified battery do this? Like a Ride1up Turris?
Sorry, good questions, but I have no definitive answers. That recommendation's a good start, but the owner's proper role in battery management is more complicated than that and doesn't end there.

Read every word about the battery in your bike's documentation and follow the recommendations there till you have good reason to do otherwise. Use the forum search function to read up on this often controversial subject. But bear in mind that what's true of one bike's particular battery and BMS may not be true of yours.

That said, you can rely on anything our well-credentialed resident expert @Ravi Kempaiah says about batteries — provided it actually applies to your bike.
 
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A common recommendation when charging a battery is to shut the charger off when the green light comes on. Does the above statement cover this? Would the BMS associated with any UL certified battery do this? Like a Ride1up Turris?
@Jeremy McCreary is correct. It depends on the bike or on the battery. On Specialized bikes they automatically charge to 90% but at about 10% of the time they charge to 100% for load leveling of the cells. On my preferred batteries, when charged in the Off position they charge to 90% for long battery life and when in the On position they charge to 100% for load leveling. I sell Ride 1Ups and work on them daily and do not know how their BMS chips are setup. You could try charging in the Off position and checking the actual voltage, then charge in the On position and do the same as a test. They are likely made in the same factory as mine. But my batteries are from the boutique side of the enterprise and have special features and cells. I generally tell people to charge to 90% all of the time, but once per season to charge to 100% but only just before a big ride so the battery never sits at 100%.
 
Just to clarify, 100% and Zero are not really that. It is not like a gas tank. Each battery has a 'nominal' or average value. Fully charged is about but not exactly 10% higher than its Nominal Range, or mid-normal-value. A zero charge is about but not exactly 10% lower than its Nominal Charge. Batteries are never at zero, or they would die, and a true 100% would catch fire. Newly awoken conversion displays often see a fully charged 48 nominal battery as a less than fully charged 52V battery. Or it takes several charge cycles for the upper display to stabilize and recognize the actual nominal value on the HB handlebar display. These bikes need to be first awoken at the nominal value to correctly register the actual value on the displays. That is about one bar down.
 
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