Allant+ 7s U-Lock Mount Location?

[Shogun7s+]

Just got an Allant+ 7s last week (will post thoughts on that later), but currently wanted to see if anyone had mounted a U-Lock to it and if so where they put it.

I purchased an Abus 540 U Lock, but struggled to find a place on the bike that it would fit w/o blocking my boss mounts (mounting it in the triangle would block using anything else in there), getting in the way of pedaling/the rear wheel, blocking items on the rack or rubbing against my leg.

Some of the issues compared to my last bike are that the frame is too thick for the lock holder in many places and thicker tires cause the frame to flare out for the rear wheel which makes it difficult to mount there.

After trying a lot of different locations, I eventually decided on the location below, which is ok but wondering if anyone else had a better mount.

The current mount which is not too bad, just seems a little out of place - one of the advantages here is both the U and the shackle (which is very heavy) will not fall out of the mount as soon as it is unlocked.

Tried this location, but it would rub on my leg when pedaling (on my last bike I had it mounted simialarly, but below the seatpost - unfortunately that does not work on the 7S as the wheels are thicker and the frame juts out).

Tried this, but couldn't get the mount tight enough to stop the lock from moving (and potentially impeding the tire) while riding

 

[Dallant]

Hmmm, I’ve never even thought about this issue. I like option three though you seem to think it might get in the way. I’m thinking about an Abus frame lock, which the Allant frame already has attachment points for. Best of luck!

 

[Shogun7s+]

Yeah - the 3rd option I could not get it tight enough with the supplied spacers for the bracket. Perhaps I can find something else to fit in it to make it more snug, but as it was, even a slight push would make the U swing out and the shackle swing into the path of the wheel. Bumps in the road definitely would have done it.

One thing to note with the frame lock (I looked into that to have in addition to the U-Lock, but opted with a folding lock as my 2nd) in case you aren't aware, is that there aren't bosses on the Allant frame where the frame lock mounts. Abus has an official solution for that situation, but I saw a review from someone who said that a pair of zip ties actually worked better to hold it in place (and save $10).

 

[Dallant]

One thing to note with the frame lock (I looked into that to have in addition to the U-Lock, but opted with a folding lock as my 2nd) in case you aren't aware, is that there aren't bosses on the Allant frame where the frame lock mounts. Abus has an official solution for that situation, but I saw a review from someone who said that a pair of zip ties actually worked better to hold it in place (and save $10).

Maybe I’m misunderstanding you but I believe that these bosses are for frame locks.

 

[Yamahonian]

Either bungee it to the top of your rack or stick it in a pannier

Most ebikes are not well suited for the typical u lock mounting locations.

 

[Shogun7s+]

Maybe I’m misunderstanding you but I believe that these bosses are for frame locks.View attachment 90542

Well I'll be damned - neither the Trek person in the store nor I noticed those. I was looking for bosses on the top/side like my last bike had and how I had seen most frame locks mounted, but I did just google image search and there are definitely frame locks that mount that way as well. I even asked the sales person how the frame lock would mount and he said that he had no idea (Trek employees' lack of knowledge of this bike is for another post). Thanks for pointing that out!

 

[Shogun7s+]

Either bungee it to the top of your rack or stick it in a pannier

Most ebikes are not well suited for the typical u lock mounting locations.

Definitely finding that out - the frame and wheels are so much bigger than my FX 7.4! (I know, obvious)

My folding lock just arrived today and I couldn't even get it around front wheel and the frame. Going to be returning that and will now have to decide if I want to get a chain or maybe go the frame lock and cable route in addition to the U Lock.

I rather not put it on the top of the rack as I prefer not put it in my bag when I am using one (the bag is a Topeak one that will slide into a rack adapter that should be arriving soon). Honestly after a couple of rides now it is seems to be holding up pretty well in that spot, just looks a little less slick.

 

[Dallant]

Well I'll be damned - neither the Trek person in the store nor I noticed those. I was looking for bosses on the top/side like my last bike had and how I had seen most frame locks mounted, but I did just google image search and there are definitely frame locks that mount that way as well. I even asked the sales person how the frame lock would mount and he said that he had no idea (Trek employees' lack of knowledge of this bike is for another post). Thanks for pointing that out!

I asked the question of what they were for on this forum in the first month or so of owning my Allant+7 last year. Glad to help.

 

[gringo]

I struggled with this too. Here's what I came up with:

I zip-tied a couple strips cut out of old tubes to protect the frame at the seat stays. Then I added a short length of small-diameter bungee looped through the bottle-mount braze-ons. This bungee is then looped through the u-lock and keeps the lock from bouncing around (it keeps it really stable in place). It is quick and easy to remove and remount and because it is so stable it doesn't make any noise riding over bumps.

Yes, I also use a folding lock in addition to a u-lock. This bike was not cheap! I figure it takes multiple tools to cut through two different types of locks and hope a potential thief will consider another easier target instead! It takes about 30 seconds longer to lock up with two locks, but not a big deal.

 

[Shogun7s+]

I struggled with this too. Here's what I came up with:
View attachment 90596

I zip-tied a couple strips cut out of old tubes to protect the frame at the seat stays. Then I added a short length of small-diameter bungee looped through the bottle-mount braze-ons. This bungee is then looped through the u-lock and keeps the lock from bouncing around (it keeps it really stable in place). It is quick and easy to remove and remount and because it is so stable it doesn't make any noise riding over bumps.

Yes, I also use a folding lock in addition to a u-lock. This bike was not cheap! I figure it takes multiple tools to cut through two different types of locks and hope a potential thief will consider another easier target instead! It takes about 30 seconds longer to lock up with two locks, but not a big deal.

Thanks for the recommendation.

I am with you on the multiple locks which I was planning on doing as well. I live in Washington DC and will be travelling (with my 7S) to multiple cities coming up and although I don't plan on leaving my bike overnight or outside for extended periods of time, I would like to be able to lock it up outside and run into a store/restaurant/etc and be able to stay for a little while without being paranoid the entire time. And I know that nothing is full proof, but the more of a hassle/time consuming it is the less likely to get stolen (and the extra weight of the locks is somewhat negated by the motor).

What length is your folding lock? I just received the standard length (85cm) Abus and was planning to loop it around the frame and front wheel and then to whatever else I was locking it to, figuring that I would use the U Lock on the frame and rear wheel, but I couldn't even get it to close just trying to get it through the front wheel and around the frame (never mind another object). I was planning to return it and get a chain instead, but maybe I am just doing something wrong?

 

[Shogun7s+]

I struggled with this too. Here's what I came up with:
View attachment 90596

I zip-tied a couple strips cut out of old tubes to protect the frame at the seat stays. Then I added a short length of small-diameter bungee looped through the bottle-mount braze-ons. This bungee is then looped through the u-lock and keeps the lock from bouncing around (it keeps it really stable in place). It is quick and easy to remove and remount and because it is so stable it doesn't make any noise riding over bumps.

Yes, I also use a folding lock in addition to a u-lock. This bike was not cheap! I figure it takes multiple tools to cut through two different types of locks and hope a potential thief will consider another easier target instead! It takes about 30 seconds longer to lock up with two locks, but not a big deal.

Also, do you have some type of cover over your battery compartment?

 

[gringo]

although I don't plan on leaving my bike overnight or outside for extended periods of time, I would like to be able to lock it up outside and run into a store/restaurant/etc and be able to stay for a little while without being paranoid the entire time.

I hear you! Me too.

What length is your folding lock?

I got the 85cm too. I probably would have preferred the 110cm, bit so $$$ and more weight.

It is difficult and impractical in most locking situations to get the lock through the wheel and frame on this bike (so much space between the rear wheel and the frame). So I usually use one on the frame and one through the rear wheel inside the rear diamond following the Shelton Brown locking method.

 

[gringo]

Also, do you have some type of cover over your battery compartment?

Refer to this thread:

Allant+ 7S & Other Treks with Integrated Batteries

Has anyone come across, does anything exist, is there a hack or any ideas to have a simple cover for the "hole" that is left when removing the battery from the frame? I typically park my bike inside my condo so I charge the battery in the frame. When I ride it to work, I need to lock it outside...

electricbikereview.com

I only use it for transporting bike without battery or on rare occasion when I decide to ride analog.

 

[Shogun7s+]

I hear you! Me too.



I got the 85cm too. I probably would have preferred the 110cm, bit so $$$ and more weight.

It is difficult and impractical in most locking situations to get the lock through the wheel and frame on this bike (so much space between the rear wheel and the frame). So I usually use one on the frame and one through the rear wheel inside the rear diamond following the Shelton Brown locking method.

Yeah - I haven't actually locked it up anywhere yet so haven't tried the U lock yet, but am familiar with Shelton Brown's method.

I was thinking of getting the Abus CITYCHAIN™ 1010/110cm instead of the folding lock to use in addition to the U. It's only a 12 on Abus's security scale vs the folding lock's 15, but I think that is fine when combined with the U Lock that is a 15. It is cheaper than both the 85 and 110cm folding locks and it is lighter than the 110cm folding. It's also more flexible for getting around things.

 

[Shogun7s+]

Refer to this thread:

Allant+ 7S & Other Treks with Integrated Batteries

Has anyone come across, does anything exist, is there a hack or any ideas to have a simple cover for the "hole" that is left when removing the battery from the frame? I typically park my bike inside my condo so I charge the battery in the frame. When I ride it to work, I need to lock it outside...

electricbikereview.com

I only use it for transporting bike without battery or on rare occasion when I decide to ride analog.

Ahh. That is another one of my complaints about Trek's customer experience/knowledge; as noted in that thread the Trek/Bosch manual tells you to remove the battery, but when I mentioned that to my LBS they told me that was crazy and to absolutely not do that. Of course they also told me that I could download my own software off the Bosch site to upgrade my motor through the Purion...

 

[gringo]

I think a thick chain is a good idea for the reasons you mention, but the folding lock was a slightly more elegant storage/transport option on the bike.

 

[Dallant]

Ahh. That is another one of my complaints about Trek's customer experience/knowledge; as noted in that thread the Trek/Bosch manual tells you to remove the battery, but when I mentioned that to my LBS they told me that was crazy and to absolutely not do that. Of course they also told me that I could download my own software off the Bosch site to upgrade my motor through the Purion...

Hmm, you need to find another Trek dealer.

 

[Shogun7s+]

Hmm, you need to find another Trek dealer.

Well the one I bought it from is 230 miles away didn't update the software like they said they did (just checked last night and it is 1.1.2.0) and the one closest to me in DC doesnt seem much more knowledgeable. It's really frustrating how much lack of knowledge the Trek employees seem to have about the ebikes. I get it that they probably make up a small portion of their sales, but you would think you would get better service when you spend $4K on a bike. One of the main reasons I paid the premium for the Trek was that I should theoretically have better service available to me.

Luckily there is another Trek store that is only a few more miles away than the DC one so I will try them next. I am going to be annoyed if they want to charge me for the software upgrade. Trek should really include a certain number of/years of updates with the price of the bike (similar to how phone manufacturers will provide updates for free for a certain amount of time) and either the stores just eat it as part of doing business or Trek reimburses them for time spent.

 

[Shogun7s+]

And to be clear, the person helping me at the store DC appeared to be a front of the house person, so maybe the folks in the service bay would have a better understanding, but this person was suggested to me as the 'ebike expert' and was very confident in his answers. Super nice guy who spent a lot of time answering my questions, but I would rather you just admit that you aren't sure than give bad advice.

 

[Dallant]

Every Trek store (4 total) I’ve been to since I bought my Allant+7 a year ago has told me they would do the update free of charge. In fact I had a Trek shop 3 hours away from me install the initial update that took the torque from 75Nm to 85Nm, added the EMTB mode, and light on/off capability. It only took them about 15 minutes and they did it while patching my first flat. They did charge me for that.
BTW, I always ask the service folks and they all said I would need to make an appointment.