Advice for adding hydraulic brakes?

[mikeschn]

I'm thinking about converting my purplish/bluish bike to hydraulic brakes, just because... I've never done that before. Any thing to watch out for. Any recommendations? Is it just plug and play, or do I have to learn about hydraulic fluids and bleeding?

Mike...

 

[Gionnirocket]

I'm all for learning.. but I think that steel cable actuated hydraulic calipers work more than well enough for most applications and without the fuss of beading or potential leaks.
jmho

 

[AHicks]

I'm a big time tinkerer and DIY'er, and still agree 100%. I like the smooth action of the hydraulics, but find nothing wrong with cable operated discs.

 

[Taylor57]

I'm thinking about converting my purplish/bluish bike to hydraulic brakes, just because... I've never done that before. Any thing to watch out for. Any recommendations? Is it just plug and play, or do I have to learn about hydraulic fluids and bleeding?

Mike...

View attachment 123346

Agree with Hicks. Nothing wrong with the mechanical discs. They beat cheap hydraulic wannabees. If you are going to convert-buy a good hydraulic. I've noticed my hydraulic Zooms on the Espin Sports are starting to act up...

 

[arcom]

I'm all for learning.. but I think that steel cable actuated hydraulic calipers work more than well enough for most applications and without the fuss of beading or potential leaks.
jmho

I agree, at least for my mechanical abilities and desire. I don't think the OP (@mikeschn) would be intimidated by the skills required to do the full hydraulic conversion--based on his other posts. With a full hydraulic conversion like the Tektro E350 you would be dealing with fixed cable/line lengths, usually 900mm (35.4") for the front grabbers and 1600mm (63") for the rear. That would have to be considered while the actual routing wouldn't be a problem on his purplish/bluish bike. But when looking at the front brake setup, would a near 3' foot hydraulic hose look out of place or can the hydraulic lines be easily shortened?

Cost-wise, the full hydraulic conversion and the hybrid conversion (like the Juin setup) are about the same, give or take $20. If I had the skills and desire for a full hydraulic conversion, I would go that route. For me personally, the hybrid cable/hydraulic would be my choice.

 

[stanmiller]

I'm all for learning.. but I think that steel cable actuated hydraulic calipers work more than well enough for most applications and without the fuss of beading or potential leaks.
jmho

Hybrid calibers still need occasional bleeding.

 

[TrevorB]

Your bike will need kill switch in lever, see Tektro and Magura range. Not seen any Shimano brakes that offer this feature. Youtube has plenty of videos on fitting brakes. May need to change your rotors depending on what you buy. Don't be surprised if cost adds up very quickly.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Hybrid calibers still need occasional bleeding.

Easy solution.. Just don't buy that brand.

 

[stanmiller]

Easy solution.. Just don't buy that brand.

Ha. It's cool that TRP acknowledges said need and gives step by step instructions.

 

[stanmiller]

@mikeschn I have TRP Hy/Rd's on my cargo ebike and they have fantastic stopping power.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Ha. It's cool that TRP acknowledges said need and gives step by step instructions.

How many times have you had to do it?
It's a sealed unit and unless you open it or have a a seal leak there should be absolutely no need to.
I never have and have what I would describe as fantastic stopping power.

 

[fooferdoggie]

How many times have you had to do it?
It's a sealed unit and unless you open it or have a a seal leak there should be absolutely no need to.
I never have and have what I would describe as fantastic stopping power.

heat will mess up the fluid.

 

[Gionnirocket]

heat will mess up the fluid.

I forgot about you guys that ride down hill both ways
Ok... How many times have you had to change your fluid due to heat degradation?

 

[AHicks]

I forgot about you guys that ride down hill both ways
Ok... How many times have you had to change your fluid due to heat degradation?

And to back up that question, how did you identify there was a heat degradation problem?

 

[Gionnirocket]

And to back up that question, how did you identify there was a heat degradation problem?

I would ass_ume that the brakes would start to feel spongy/ less effective
I'm just wondering if this is a real life issue

 

[fooferdoggie]

And to back up that question, how did you identify there was a heat degradation problem?

2 or three times on our tandem. but we go down a lot of hills anymore and I am not brave enough to go go above 30mph

 

[Gionnirocket]

2 or three times on our tandem. but we go down a lot of hills anymore and I am not brave enough to go go above 30mph

But that bike has full hydraulic... correct?

 

[fooferdoggie]

But that bike has full hydraulic... correct?

yes so it can take more heat. all that fluid acts like a heat sync. I am also using 203 ice tech rotors and finned pads.

 

[AHicks]

2 or three times on our tandem. but we go down a lot of hills anymore and I am not brave enough to go go above 30mph

Not following what you are saying?

Are you saying that if you manage to overheat your brakes (big time reduced effectiveness) that you need to change your brake fluid?

Didn't the brakes resume working just fine when they cooled off?

 

[Gionnirocket]

yes so it can take more heat. all that fluid acts like a heat sync. I am also using 203 ice tech rotors and finned pads.

Honesty I think it a fuji apples to crab apples comparison. The question is do cable pull hydraulic calipers need to be bled. I haven't heard of anyone kneeding to do so
Also take into account that most aren't riding a +400 lb bike down mountain sides.