A little advice and recommendations please

kmccune

Well-Known Member
Walked by the bike rack at Wally World today and noticed they have a lower end 27.5 Schwinns Womans mtb for sale ,I was wondering would that be a good candidate for ebike conversion? I like Womans basically step through frame, I like the womans cruiser bikes they have they are basically a smallish 26" wheel frame,I tried converting a Huffy cruiser Womans "hyper" it just wasnt right and didnt seem to be a very good candidate for a rear hub drive I gave it away to a Friend and She really likes it'
The first ecruiser I had was a "Maxfoot MF 18" very long frame and just rite except for one thing the top bar I have a lot of difficulties getting on a Mans Bike, one good thing they do make a "MF17" step thru and of course they were higher priced and sold out, so I am still lookin' the fat tires are what I am trying to get away from, lower end plus size would be fine. lets try another approach can anyone recommend a low price 26-27.5 cruiser that would make a good conversion? Any help would be appreciated and considered.
 
Hi @kmccune! A French chef was given a new $300 bike from Target for Christmas. I made it nicer and installed the conversion. She loves it. The crappy forged steel American crank was replaced by the mid-drive. I upgraded things such as the grips and brake pads. And have been able to eat for free for the last four months and counting. This is not normal food. It is multi-course and top notch. Her bike is called a Gateway, as in being a gateway drug. In other words, it is a starter bike. She is not going to be in any races. It is for around town.
 

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Hi @kmccune! A French chef was given a new $300 bike from Target for Christmas. I made it nicer and installed the conversion. She loves it. The crappy forged steel American crank was replaced by the mid-drive. I upgraded things such as the grips and brake pads. And have been able to eat for free for the last four months and counting. This is not normal food. It is multi-course and top notch. Her bike is called a Gateway, as in being a gateway drug. In other words, it is a starter bike. She is not going to be in any races. It is for around town.
Danged if you don't do good work. One these days I am going to manage to get my gnarled little paws on a TDZ middrive and make a build accordingly,I had a very brief experience with a Mid-drive of this sort, and Must say it was slick! Good build and "Bon Appetit!" Going to peruse the "Gateway' thanks.
 
One of the challenges converting a women's/step through bike is a place to mount the battery. Will it still be a step through when the battery is mounted? If not, why not just go with a step over frame?

Rear rack mounted batteries cause balance issues. If you pull a bike over too far mounting/dismounting, the weight of the battery (say a 14ah) can lift the front tire right off the ground when both hands are on the handlebars. A REALLY lightweight (small) battery required. From the lessons learned the hard way manual....
 
One of the challenges converting a women's/step through bike is a place to mount the battery. Will it still be a step through when the battery is mounted?
One of the reasons I converted a bike with bosses welded in the frame to mount a front basket. This means I don't have to steer the battery, mounted on the front. My model is discontinued; you wouldn't want it anyway since it is special for short people. I don't know the non-electric bike market well enough to point out drop frame models with front basket mount. But look for it. My battery frame is made of 3/4" aluminum angle, mounted on 1/4 SS bolts through the frame. Battery is wrapped in white foam & a plastic bag against sun & rain. I have 17.5 AH.
Front battery balances a rear hub motor better.
 
Yesterday I fixed up a seven-year-old light weight aluminum cargo bike with a low step frame. Then I made it electric. People hate non-electric cargo bikes and will sell cheap to free up space in their garages. I put an 11-50 cluster on the rear, so it can climb cliffs and go 30.
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Walked by the bike rack at Wally World today and noticed they have a lower end 27.5 Schwinns Womans mtb for sale ,I was wondering would that be a good candidate for ebike conversion?
Can you tell us which Schwinn it is... maybe post a link or a screenshot from walmart.com
 
Can you tell us which Schwinn it is... maybe post a link or a screenshot from walmart.com
Didn't have my phone with me and I cannot recall the model name,Wal-mart doesnt do a good job of even putting the price where you can find it,I probably should pull one off the rack and sit on it,I require something like an 18" frame or it feels terrible and confining another thing like Pedaluma makes known is how many different models Schwinn makes,I did see something very interesting for sale on"FBMP" a pair of 32"ers for peanuts, the picture showed a nice low step frame, they were single speed( more and more I am beginning to see the utility of a single-speed because unless I am climbing I leave the bikes in 4th or 5th anyway I will check on WW site to find bike model, kinda crazy I know ,I'm starting to take a "hankering" to "Margaritaville" I love a streched out cruiser.
Can you tell us which Schwinn it is... maybe post a link or a screenshot from walmart.com
OK, it was either a "sidewinder" or "Aluminum Comp" 27.5
 
... I put an 11-50 cluster on the rear, so it can climb cliffs and go 30.
So thats where your Box3 stuff went :)

I think even though the Advent cluster I was showing in that other thread is better for mids, maybe the derailleur/shifter should come from Box. I was having some funky shifting from my Advent setup last week - I spent the week riding that bike. Am going to try and spend another week at home starting Wednesday and may pull the panniers off so I can get to the derailleur and make sure I got it set up properly.

Are you using the Box instructions for adjusting the derailleur? Non traditional to say the least but I used them and I'll be damned they work.


I usually use the Park Tool method.
 
I just saw this one. When you do a conversion of an American BB bike you need the conversion cups, asymetrical, from LUNA. I have been trying to work on my bike all day but I keep getting slammed like Richard Pryor and pussy (cats). I have been doing test rides up in the hills with folks all day and three bikes came in today for tune-ups with conversions when I had nothing planned.
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So thats where your Box3 stuff went :)

I think even though the Advent cluster I was showing in that other thread is better for mids, maybe the derailleur/shifter should come from Box. I was having some funky shifting from my Advent setup last week - I spent the week riding that bike. Am going to try and spend another week at home starting Wednesday and may pull the panniers off so I can get to the derailleur and make sure I got it set up properly.

Are you using the Box instructions for adjusting the derailleur? Non traditional to say the least but I used them and I'll be damned they work.


I usually use the Park Tool method.
I do it like Tommy plays pinball. I didn't know there were instructions. I bolted it on and set the limits before the chain. The jockey in 2 was rubbing 1 but the indexing was good. So, that took a 'b'-screw adjustment. I bought the box 3 without a place for it to land and the Kona came in as a surprise. It had a Tourney cluster, so when I showed him the Box he said, Hell Yes.
You could have a crimped housing. A bike came in last week and the shifting sucked. Some kid at REI used zip ties on the housing that were tightened down to 11 in a reptilian death grip. Just saw the video. Mine had 2.5mm cap screws not Philips head.
 
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Confessions of a cog killer. I killed the cog on my three speed. I also killed the tires. And it will need a new chainring. The tires were new in Feb along with the cog and chain. Because it is a coaster brake stress is applied in two directions. I ride it hard and take big climbs. Here are the asymmetric converters from Luna.
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Not so much on crank-forward frames. Just forums repeating the same opinions over and over.
To help you sleep well tonight, I was NOT speaking of a "crank forward" design, though I don't see that as having anything to do with what I was talking about. I was sharing a FIRST HAND experience I had (not something read and repeated as you are ASSuming), resulting in my loss of balance and falling on top of the bike in a most ungraceful manner. And sure, others have mentioned balance issues as well.

Would you feel better if I had said CAN cause a balance issue, or are you going to sit there and tell everyone that the heap in my driveway with me on top of it never happened?
 
My friend Lisa had a rack pack and could not take a trail because the bike wanted to pendulum ass backwards and flip over. She had to walk.
 

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Rear rack mounted batteries cause balance issues.
Not so much on crank-forward frames. Just forums repeating the same opinions over and over.
To help you sleep well tonight, I was NOT speaking of a "crank forward" design, though I don't see that as having anything to do with what I was talking about. I was sharing a FIRST HAND experience I had (not something read and repeated as you are ASSuming), resulting in my loss of balance and falling on top of the bike in a most ungraceful manner. And sure, others have mentioned balance issues as well.

Would you feel better if I had said CAN cause a balance issue, or are you going to sit there and tell everyone that the heap in my driveway with me on top of it never happened?
FFS, so, perfunctory comments regardless or their intent draw that much ire? I’m sorry Al, I saw it as just another small bit of info for readers. My mistake was quoting you. Mea culpa.
 
Yesterday I fixed up a seven-year-old light weight aluminum cargo bike with a low step frame. Then I made it electric. People hate non-electric cargo bikes and will sell cheap to free up space in their garages. I put an 11-50 cluster on the rear, so it can climb cliffs and go 30.
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Where do you get these awesome bikes? and what size bottle battery do you use" I have been having good luck with the small"Hailong triangle batteries( 10 Ah 48 volt and 12 ah 36 Volt
My friend Lisa had a rack pack and could not take a trail because the bike wanted to pendulum ass backwards and flip over. She had to walk.
I can understand that on my driveway( pretty steep) on most bikes when you are cranking on the pedals you can feel the weight coming off the front end, had a similar experience back in the day when trying to tow on an incline with a "banana bike" the thing would just rear up. One of my issues for whatever reason is lack of balance on a frame with 20 " tires, these things regularly throw me no matter how good they feel on the straight. One reason I do not attempt motorcycles
 
This one?

No,its in a oblong case you can hang in a small triangle( sorry my machine stubbornly refuses to cut and paste- have had more trouble with this computer than any of my previous ones, my favorite was the "xp machine'
 
Rear rack mounted batteries cause balance issues. If you pull a bike over too far mounting/dismounting, the weight of the battery (say a 14ah) can lift the front tire right off the ground when both hands are on the handlebars. A REALLY lightweight (small) battery required. From the lessons learned the hard way manual....
I have to disagree with this. From experience, on a street bike its a non-issue. Now, putting a battery on the back rack is my second-least favorite place to put it, but thats because I prefer to use a rack's capacity to carry stuff and the battery will reduce the rack's utility significantly.

In the couple of times I have been forced to just do it... no consequences of any kind to the ride.

For a street bike. I have no idea about a trails/singletrack bike. I doubt it would be a good thing.
 
I do it like Tommy plays pinball.
ROFL on that one.
You could have a crimped housing.
OMFG I think you landed right on it. The shifter cable is in-frame and comes out right onto the motor. I had to position that motor just right to NOT crimp the shifter cable and I bet I could use some grease or oil down same, as I did change cabling. Whats been happening - and this is very difficult to confirm on a longtail you can't just look down at and watch since a) its so far back and b) its covered by panniers - is I shift and sometimes seconds later I get a gear change. Oftentimes shifts are so smooth there is no overt sign they have been completed (I do the stutter-step so I re-engage power a couple seconds after the shift, which takes about 20% of a pedal stroke) , which makes the under-power thunk a few seconds later really annoying. Fortunately I have de-fanged the BBSHD's PAS so I am not risking a Taco Tuesday on the drivetrain.
 
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