I need to find a replacement controller for my ancheer e-bike

[Shahaabmir4]

Hi I have a 26 inch ancheer e-bike that I have had for well over a year I love it https://a.co/d/in2kqqc

Recently my controller blew and I need a new controller but I can’t find a exact match online below are some pictures and I hope someone will tell me where to buy and exact replacement thanks in advance

 

[harryS]

If you cannot get it from Ancheer, it's a long hard path. I was exchanging posts with someone a few years ago ago with the same issue and I'm not sure he ever got the replacement going,.

It looks like a controller that fits inside the battery cradle. Most of the units you probably have found online are probably KT controllers that may not work with your bilke display Controllers only work with displays from the same manufacturer, If you buy one of them, you probably should be prepared to replace the display too,

These guys, for exanple sell the controller/cradle together, but the cradle may not fit your battery, Just pointing how tricky it is to buy something just looking at pictures.

A possibility is to buy a discrete case controller/display and mount it on the frame. You can extend the wires from the battery cradle to it.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

A possibility is to buy a discrete case controller/display and mount it on the frame. You can extend the wires from the battery cradle to it.

+1 for this. I hate battling through “support agents” over the phone. You’ll most likely end up where you started.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

I would just buy a VESC and replace the controller with that.
Then a lot of compatibility issues go away. (you use your phone as display)
(you can set every parameter involved in operating any BLDC Motor)

You can get one that only puts out the amps you plan to use.

It will take some work but in the end you will have full control of the system.

If you look at my Bafang VESC Retrofit thread you can see a little of what's involved.
I'm just getting started.

I'm testing right now so my setup is more complex on my bench.
It's not super difficult but it's not plug and play.

If you need help I can help you.

 

[5starguy]

If you cannot get it from Ancheer, it's a long hard path. I was exchanging posts with someone a few years ago ago with the same issue and I'm not sure he ever got the replacement going,.

It looks like a controller that fits inside the battery cradle. Most of the units you probably have found online are probably KT controllers that may not work with your bilke display Controllers only work with displays from the same manufacturer, If you buy one of them, you probably should be prepared to replace the display too,

These guys, for exanple sell the controller/cradle together, but the cradle may not fit your battery, Just pointing how tricky it is to buy something just looking at pictures.

A possibility is to buy a discrete case controller/display and mount it on the frame. You can extend the wires from the battery cradle to it.

 

[5starguy]

Hi again. Just to thank Harry S again for his guidance a month or so ago. I didn't know anything about ebikes and bought a nonworking Ancheer 5637. Another member was turned off by my naivete who was right about the immensity of the situation. But Harry S carried me through. I can't get to pictures now but I have the same controller in the battery cradle and cannot find the controller anywhere. I have learned a lot and just now finishing up tests which point to a defective controller. Open to suggestions for the best cheap controller and display package. Something under $100? With everything discoed there is no 5 volts
0

 

[5starguy]

Continued sorry: no 5 volts to peripherals with all disconnected. All bullet connectors are solid. good battery power 41v on a 36v 350 watt? can't tell from controller or motor the wattage. Having fun actually figuring everything out. Thanks all for your most appreciated assistance.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

Ok here you go. If you buy this and get it up and running you will be very very happy.
Don't be thrown off by the 72V Specification. It is 72V MAX but you could run it even at 24V.
A 60V lion battery would be the highest voltage battery you can use.

Flipsky 75100 75V 100A Single ESC Based on VESC For Electric Skateboard / Scooter / Ebike Speed Controller

Warm tips: It is recommended to keep firmware 5.2 from factory ship, the new firmware upgrade may damage the ESC. Remark:Please be careful to limit the Absolute Maximum Current below 200A. HERE Specs: Voltage:14-84V (4-20S) Continuous Current:100A Max Current:120A Firmware: latest (firmware...

flipsky.net

You will have to cut ends off cables and make some of your own wires but it is not super difficult.
With a 48V battery and this control you could get a top speed of 30 / 35 MPH with lots of pull. It won't slow down going up even the steepest hill without loosing speed and nothing will get very hot.

It is some work to wire and configure everything but it is very very worth it.
I am willing to help you with VESC Tool Settings and the wiring.
For $50 you are getting a way way better control than any stock or aftermarket E-Bike Controller.

I am running a Tronic 250R VESC.

Tronic 250R: The true Ultimate VESC Controller for PEVs | Customwheel

Unlock the power and customization with the Tronic 250R VESC Controller. Compact, reliable, and compatible with a range of motors. Experience performance.

customwheel.shop

It is top of the line but you see the price. The $50 control should give you similar performance. The flipsky just isn't as high of quality but it should work fine.

 

[5starguy]

If you cannot get it from Ancheer, it's a long hard path. I was exchanging posts with someone a few years ago ago with the same issue and I'm not sure he ever got the replacement going,.

It looks like a controller that fits inside the battery cradle. Most of the units you probably have found online are probably KT controllers that may not work with your bilke display Controllers only work with displays from the same manufacturer, If you buy one of them, you probably should be prepared to replace the display too,

These guys, for exanple sell the controller/cradle together, but the cradle may not fit your battery, Just pointing how tricky it is to buy something just looking at pictures.

A possibility is to buy a discrete case controller/display and mount it on the frame. You can extend the wires from the battery cradle to it.

Hi all. Same issue. Motor dormant. It's down to controller or mxus rear hub 36v 350w ? brushless. Bought Bike used, not working Ancheer. newbe (duh) to ebikes. Full ~41.7v battery power. All red LED's (PAS levels) on display blinking RED. Anybody know what 5 reds means? I am using this bike to learn the ropes and still think I could get it going, knowing all too well what the community thinks of my efforts. Edison tried over 5,000 combos until he got the incandescent light bulb to work. I'm only up to 7 or 8!

Discoed brakes, PAS and throttle and motor. No 5v to throttle, PAS (with external 5v applied, working - puts out ~4v intermittently when spun) and no B+ to motor. Ready to take Harry's advice and purchase controller (mounted on downtube) and display package but need to know if motor is the original culprit. If so, what is an inexpensive controller set to purchase keeping same volts, etc.

Can anyone tell me how to check the motor? I think to mimic the controller with external B+ source and then recheck sensors and phase wires (no continuity for all three pairs and have read that this indicates "internal issue with motor"). Need to know proper Voltage from controller to mimic (test sensors) or is this motor toast? Any thoughts are welcome and thanks to all for your great past advice.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I’ve worked on an ANCHEER bike before. The throttle would only activate when pedaling. Your bike may also be like this.

Since battery seems healthy. Could be a stuck brake sensor. You can disconnect the Ebrakes and retest. I believe the first order of business is to identify the display. There might be a model number on the back. Sharing a photo will also help as some one may know exactly what that display is.

The motor. Hmm. It may be good. When testing the hall sensors, you’ll have to spin the wheel backwards to see your voltage toggle on and off. The phase wires, I’m not sure you would measure resistance across them. You might if the hub was full of water. If you can rotate the wheel backwards and forwards and there is no audible clanking or scraping, it’s probably good. Usually the controller goes out before the motor does.

 

[PCeBiker]

Disconnected brakes, PAS and throttle and motor. No 5v to throttle, PAS (with external 5v applied, working - puts out ~4v intermittently when spun) and no B+ to motor.

That's not right.
The controller "makes" and sends +5 Volts to the PAS sensor, the throttle, the brake switches, and the display.

If you aren't getting +5 Volts at those sensors, then the controller is at fault.
The controller should always be putting out +5 volts, unless there's something with ANCHEER programming that is shutting it down. (But I doubt that. The +5 Volt circuit in the controller is probably fried.)

Ready to take Harry's advice and purchase controller (mounted on downtube) and display package.

I think that is your best option.

From @harryS 's link, there are a bunch of options available,..

This is the cheapest option at ~$62 USD,..
It should work for you but it needs to connect to your battery.
@harryS can help you pick the right one.

You might need cables and a display too??

Can anyone tell me how to check the motor? I think to mimic the controller with external B+ source and then recheck sensors and phase wires (no continuity for all three pairs and have read that this indicates "internal issue with motor"). Need to know proper Voltage from controller to mimic (test sensors) or is this motor toast? Any thoughts are welcome and thanks to all for your great past advice.

You can buy a motor checker tool for around ten bucks,..

Lots of fun figuring it out,..

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKkrzY4

You can also test your motor with your multimeter, but the little tool with the blinky lights makes it a lot easier.
(And it's kinda cool too.)

,.. Usually the controller goes out before the motor does.

I agree, and the controller is cheaper and easier to replace.

A new motor, including the rim and spokes is a lot more time money and effort, and I'm guessing that you have an over 90% chance that your controller is at fault and not the motor.

I think $62 USD isn't too much to gamble compared to the cost of a new wheel/hub motor.