XP Lite Modified

Shark413

Member
Region
USA
I purchased a XP Lite for my wife and did some modifications. I originally bought her an XP 2.0 but she is tiny and did not like the size, weight, and complexity (shifting) of the 2.0 so I got her the Lite. Things I changed: Went with the BMX bars and did a way with the giraffe folding stem. I do not ever fold my bike so I went with a stronger stem/bar setup, plus I think the BMX bars look way better. With the smaller tires and stock non-suspension forks you really take a pounding so I added 50mm travel spring/oil suspension forks. I changed to cable pull hydraulic brakes mainly because they are self-adjusting. I had some Xtech’s laying around from the XP 2.0 and they fit perfectly. Last because of the lack of rear suspension I went with a Cloud 9 suspension seat. Overall, I am very pleased with the bike and had no issues installing the parts. My next upgrade will be changing the stock gearing, as we live in a very hilly neighborhood and could use a little more torque,

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Customized XP Lite

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Removed the stock stem and replaced with a BMX bar setup.
 
Very nice. I'm a little confused on your desire to change gearing for more torque. My guess is the 350w lite motor doesn't climb as well as the 500w xp motor and you have to peddle to help the motor out when climbing. Hopefully you won't have a ghost peddling issue at higher speeds but maybe the wife doesn't like going that fast anyway🚴‍♀️.
 
Very nice. I'm a little confused on your desire to change gearing for more torque. My guess is the 350w lite motor doesn't climb as well as the 500w xp motor and you have to peddle to help the motor out when climbing. Hopefully you won't have a ghost peddling issue at higher speeds but maybe the wife doesn't like going that fast anyway🚴‍♀️.
Johny, top speed is not my main concern, I actually prefer a slower bike which will be a better fit for my wife. I understand Lectric went with a compromise regarding the single speed gearing, leaning more towards a higher gearing to get more top speed (which looks better in the advertisements). My issue is it takes a lot more effort to get started (peddling) and to climb hills with the 52t stock gear. It is particularly difficult for her when starting out because it takes a lot of effort (with the tall gearing) to get moving then the PA kicks in which can be a surprise/problem for a novice cyclist. I added a 42t crankset and it works out much better for my (wife) needs. And it is easy to go back to the stock 52T gearing if I need to.
 
One thing I noticed during the mods was when I had the front wheel off I spun the axle by hand and noticed it was super gritty and didn't turn smoothly. This usually indicates either a worn bearing (which is not the case because the bike is brand new) or the races are over tigthened causing the binding. I readjusted the tension on the axle races so that the axle turned smoothly with no play. I also noticed the rear wheel suffered from the same problem (I guess the factory over tightens everything and hopes they wear in) and the pedals also have a lot of binding. All of this adds friction and drag on the motor/peddling effort, reducing over performance.
 
That's a great solution then. The bmx bars are really smart too. The stock steering is pretty wonky feeling with the folding mech and height adjustment. A bit too narrow as well. The bmx bars fix all that and gives way more useful real estate on them too.
 
One thing I noticed during the mods was when I had the front wheel off I spun the axle by hand and noticed it was super gritty and didn't turn smoothly. This usually indicates either a worn bearing (which is not the case because the bike is brand new) or the races are over tigthened causing the binding. I readjusted the tension on the axle races so that the axle turned smoothly with no play. I also noticed the rear wheel suffered from the same problem (I guess the factory over tightens everything and hopes they wear in) and the pedals also have a lot of binding. All of this adds friction and drag on the motor/peddling effort, reducing over performance.
I've had the same issues on a couple new bikes made in China and a warranty replacement wheel on one of them too. Five wheels and all had the cones adjusted too tight.
 
Here is a picture of the cranksets, stock (52T) vs the new one (42T) I will be installing. Once I get them installed I will report on how the bike feels (take off using pedals, hill climbs and top speed peddling).

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HiShark413,
It's good to see that you enjoy yer ebike toyz much in the same way that I enjoy/appreciate my own herd of beasties.. I noticed this thread of yours and thought I'd add some possible options for you to consider. The following two options need to be combined to make everything work as intended.
[[First of all, you might want to scroll down to the end of this response and view the photo's prior to reading this info.]]
Option#1: Instead of dealing with having to swap out an entire right-side crank arm set (crank arm, chain ring, and pedal) whenever the need/desire arises, just install this item at the rear wheel axle location:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052KDG4U/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?
Since the XP Lite is a one-speed, you don't have to be concerned with shifting/running a wire cable/use of a gear changer. What you do want is the ability of the above-shown mechanism to keep tension on the chain via the 2 little wheels and the arm unit.
And why is that? Because of Option #2.
Option#2: The photo's of your 42t crank arm and your 52t crank arm show me that you can very easily convert the 42t unit into a 42t AND 52t(or higher) crank set-up. That's right a double chain ring set-up-- just like on an old school roadie bike.
You will notice that your 42t unit has 5 hex screws holding the ring AND the chain guards (the 2 toothless disc's-- one on either side of the 42t ring). Those are actually chain rings, too. It's just that they don't have teeth.
Since your pictured 52t chain ring is not usable, what you need to do is purchase this 53t item:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRY4ZH7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?
You can then replace the outside smooth chain ring guard thingie with the 53t chain ring. Plus, it even has an included guard. You now have a 42t/53t double chain ring crank arm.
You may now be wondering about Option #1.. Simple. It will allow tension to be maintained on the chain itself. Whenever you want to go from 42t to 53t (or vice versa), just halt the XP Lite mighty beastie..Dis-mount.. Grab the chain.. Manually move it to the appropriate chain ring.. Eazy Peazy.. Takes about 10 seconds total..


The rear derailleur will assure that proper tension is kept on the chain itself at all times.
By the way, be sure to use the 42t chain ring to determine proper chain length (in case you need to add/ remove links). To have “chain sag” while on the 42t setting is a no-no. It needs to be “tense”, too.
In case you do need to do chain link modifications, you might consider these items: I use them on all my bikes. They also give a quick reference to a starting/ending point during the monthly lubrication of my chain(s).
https://www.amazon.com/VG-SPORTS-Bicycle-Missing-Reusable/dp/B09Z1Z5NFV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?
So, there you have it. Hope my input helps you out.
By the way, I actually use the multiple chain ring set-up on 4 of my ebikes (they are all multi-speed beasts with a rear derailleur). Itis usually a 47t/58t combo, or a 44t/56t combo. And, just as I advised you: I stop, dismount, grab the chain, move it to the other chain ring. Takes about 10 seconds total. Yes, I am, in reality, a manual front derailleur.
In my case, it's usually more about using different color combos for pedals/crank arm/ large chain ring/ smaller chain ring. I have more than a dozen different color combo's. I just pull off the crank arm and replace the entire assembly at the same time. Too much fun.
While perusing the LECTRIC forum, I noticed another poster asking about water bottle holder information. I have a rather novel option for that/those item(s), too. I'm gonna go ahead and post a response tohis question, too.
 

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Sic Puppy, you must have been reading my mind. I tested the new gearing a few days ago and I really like it. It is much easier for my novice wife to get the bike moving and it is much better at climbing hills. The original issue was my wife is a novice and the stock high gearing makes it hard to get the bike moving until the PA kicks in which startles her and she finds it disconcerting. I know she can use throttle only to get going and that is still a viable option. But the lower gearing really makes for a more pleasant ride for the conditions we use the bike in (lots of hills). After testing I immediately thought about using a 3 gear chainring off one of my mountain bikes, with different length chains for each gear (24, 34 and 42t). But your derailleur solution would make it so much easier. My only concern was crank/gear clearance with the frame and chain line alignment. but if a chain works on a 21-speed drive system where the chain line varies a lot more, I don't see why it wouldn't work on a 3-ring chain set.

My innitial testing showed you do lose a little top speed using a 42T chain ring but it wasn't that much (17-18 mph vs 19-20 mph top speed) and this actually works out better for my wife.
 
Upon seeing the stem configuration on your wifes ebike, you/she might to interested in this water bottle mounting set-up, too. It really does work just fine.
https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/water-bottle-for-xp-lite.50000/#post-631019
As for your most excellent CD Super Vee:
My own past CannonDale SV herd:
1994.5 SV 500.. red (original aluminum swingarm was upgraded to a carbon fiber unit.)
1997 SV 700.. yellow
2000 RAVEN.. red
I also owned a 1993 DeltaVee hardtail beast.(blue).
Ah, too many toyz, too much fun.
To be 50 again (instead of 72).
Or not.
 
Upon seeing the stem configuration on your wifes ebike, you/she might to interested in this water bottle mounting set-up, too. It really does work just fine.
https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/water-bottle-for-xp-lite.50000/#post-631019
As for your most excellent CD Super Vee:
My own past CannonDale SV herd:
1994.5 SV 500.. red (original aluminum swingarm was upgraded to a carbon fiber unit.)
1997 SV 700.. yellow
2000 RAVEN.. red
I also owned a 1993 DeltaVee hardtail beast.(blue).
Ah, too many toyz, too much fun.
To be 50 again (instead of 72).
Or not.
Ahh Cannondale .... just sold my vintage Jekyll with a lefty fork a few weeks ago so I could buy the Lectric Lite.

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Ok been riding the Lite the last few days and I am very happy with it and the new lower gearing. But I felt it wasn't low enough so I decided to add a 3 ring crank I had laying around. I originally was going to make 3 different length chains for each sprocket but thanks to Sic Puppy on the EBR forum I went with a derailleur to act as a chain tensioner. The derailleur is stationary but I can manually move the chain to the 3 different front sprockets (42, 34, 24 teeth). Still a WIP but I went for a test ride using the 34T ring and it was awesome. Way more torque, easy to get going and I could still hit 19 mph using throttle. Using PAS 5 with normal pedal cadence I hit 10-12 mph using the 34T ring, perfect for my wife.

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I did run into a few issues, which I will describe below:
 
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Most high-end derailleurs use a frame specific mount which the XP Lite does not have, fortunately thanks to Sic Puppy he turned me on to budget bikes that use an axle hanger mount. After loosening the axle bolt to check to see if there was enough room, I fitted the derailleur and ran into my first issue was the Lectric cable guard hit the top of the derailleur. But I found if I turned it 180 degrees it cleared the derailleur and still provided protection.

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Problem number 1 with the derailleur installed the Lectric cable guard hits the top of the derailleur. I found if you rotate it 180 degrees it clears the derailleur and still provides protection.

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Then I ran into problem number 2, the derailleur locating bolt (the bolt that keeps the derailleur from spinning around the axle) got in the way of the cable guard. I had to grind a notch in the guard to clear it.

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Had to grind a small notch in the guard.

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A little paint and good as new.
 
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