42t versus 48t Vado 3.0

lewes5

Member
Curious to know more about swapping out the 40t chainring for the 48t chainring.

I’ve only owned my Vado for two weeks and logged about 100 miles on my normal road and hard packed cinder trail route. But it’s becoming apparent that I need to change something. I stay in the lowest level of assistance and never get out of the two highest gears (cogs).

The 48t chainring appears to be a good solution to allow me to use more of the gears. So, I have questions:

1. Is specialized using the 48t on other of its models?
2. Are there motor or programming issues resulting swapping to 48t?
3. Does going to a 48t adversely affect the warranty?
4. Using the 48t, what gear provides the same ratio as the 40t/11t original set up?
5. Who makes the best 48t chainring?
6. Is the swap an easy do it yourself or is it better to have the dealer do the job. Must the motor programming be tweaked?

Thanks for your help!

Chuck
 
The Vado 5.0 and 6.0 use a 48T chainring. It does not affect the motor or programming in any way, nor should it affect the warranty. The equivalent ratio is between the 48/13 and 48/14. I can say who make the best ring, but Race Face are popular. You will need a new, longer chain as well.
 
5. Who makes the best 48t chainring?
The Vado 3 40T and 5/6 48T chainrings have threads in them for the chainring bolt, so you don't have to get additional chainring bolt-nut sets. Specialized sells the 48T chainring for about $50, but I got a Deckas 52T chainring on ebay for half the price, but had to get the chainring bolt-nut set.
6. Is the swap an easy do it yourself or is it better to have the dealer do the job. Must the motor programming be tweaked?
Very easy if you have a 5mm allen wrench. As stated above, you'll need a new chain because the one you have now is too short. That'll be another $40-50 for a KMC X10e. My LBS emailed Specialized about the upgrade, and they said it's perfectly fine without a motor firmware update.

You'll wear out your 11-13 sprockets very quickly if you don't use other gears.
 
The Vado 3 40T and 5/6 48T chainrings have threads in them for the chainring bolt, so you don't have to get additional chainring bolt-nut sets. Specialized sells the 48T chainring for about $50, but I got a Deckas 52T chainring on ebay for half the price, but had to get the chainring bolt-nut set.

Very easy if you have a 5mm allen wrench. As stated above, you'll need a new chain because the one you have now is too short. That'll be another $40-50 for a KMC X10e. My LBS emailed Specialized about the upgrade, and they said it's perfectly fine without a motor firmware update.

You'll wear out your 11-13 sprockets very quickly if you don't use other gears.

Thanks, Nova and Coffee! Exactly the information I was hoping to receive. I'll wait until it's time to replace the chain and then make the switch to the larger chainring. I see the five bolts but does the crank need to be removed when swapping out the chainring on the Vado?
 
I see the five bolts but does the crank need to be removed when swapping out the chainring on the Vado?

There are four chaingring bolts, and original or third party chainrings are hollow so that you can replace it without removing the crank.
 
I just had the Praxis 48T 104bc chainwheel and bash guard, as well as a new chain installed on my Vado 3 by my LBS for a total cost of $150.
(I was unable to push the bike over 22 MPH, and was always riding in the top 3 gears.)
The default chain had 120 links, the new KMC x10e chain had 136, now I have a spare chain with 128 links.
 
Counterpoint: I have a Vado 6 and went the other way, swapping out the 48t chainring for a 42t. Like coffeemaker I went with a Deckas ring, $25 eBay. Much prefer the lower gearing, especially on steep mountain climbs. I've also replaced the 700c wheels on my Vado 6 with smaller 650b wheels which lowers the gearing about 6% more. I still easily spin up to 30mph, but usually don't push past the 28mph U.S. assist level (note actual speed is ~6% lower due to the smaller wheels).
 
Hi All - old post, but hoping to get some help. I have Vado 3 and just upgraded to 48T. My mechanic told me he can’t find a bash guard to fit (104bcd) - so now I have chainring slightly above the guard. Any new versions of the bash guard to fit? Thanks!
 
Awesome, thanks. He couldn’t find the right part for some reason.
I am swapping out the 40t for 48t chainring on my 2020 Turbo Vado 4.0 to get more speed on the top for commuting and to more closely match my wife’s TV 5.0. Found both the 48t chainring and 48t bash guard at Amain Cycling here in the U.S.. Here is the link for the bash guard: https://www.amaincycling.com/specia...hguard-black-48t-s179900050/p1275859?v=750218

I have original 11t-42t cassette and a new KMC x10e chain. Does anyone know the links/length I need to cut the chain down to. My TV 4.0 is a large step over frame. My wife’s TV 5.0 is a medium step thru frame. If necessary, I plan to measure the chain stays on both bikes to confirm whether they are the same length, and if so, then plan to cut my new chain length to match hers. I think I remember reading where Stephan mentioned 132 links for his TV 6.0 step thru with 48t chainring and 11t-42t cassette?
 
I think I remember reading where Stephan mentioned 132 links for his TV 6.0 step thru with 48t chainring and 11t-42t cassette?
A lot of water has flown in River Vistula since :) It is 48T chainring, 46T smallest cassette cog, and Long Cage derailleur. I have found the optimum chain length is only 126 links there! Let me tell you how to find the ideal chain length:

As I have just written, my Vado with even larger granny gear cog and Long Cage derailleur just needs 126 links, so yours would need even less. After having routed your new chain (shortened to 126 links; or more like 128 or 130 if you are not sure), that is, the chain is on the chainring (in the proper Narrow-Wide manner) and the smallest rear cog, connect both ends of the chain at the bottom with a 3 mm Allen key. Now, observe: Is there slack in the chain? Probably it is. Now, replace the disjointed chain onto the largest cog, and temporarily reconnect chain ends. Is the derailleur at, say, 75 degrees forward? If this is still pointing backwards or vertically, the chain is too long.

Continue shortening the chain, two links at a time. You might have come down to 122 links. When you have found the right chain length, connect the ends permanently. (In case of using a master link, make sure the direction arrow is oriented properly). Engage the Shadow clutch if your derailleur is equipped with one.

Vado with Proper Chain Length.jpg

Granny gear: The derailleur cage points some 75 degrees forward.

Vado with Proper Chain Length-2.jpg

Top gear: No slack in the chain. The derailleur is not on horizontal. (As I had to use a connecting pin, I was extremely careful on the latest chain replacement).

The bottom line is: You could end up with 122 links.
 
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I am swapping out the 40t for 48t chainring on my 2020 Turbo Vado 4.0 ...

I have original 11t-42t cassette and a new KMC x10e chain. Does anyone know the links/length I need to cut the chain down to. My TV 4.0 is a large step over frame. ... I think I remember reading where Stephan mentioned 132 links for his TV 6.0 step thru with 48t chainring and 11t-42t cassette?
Just follow the discussion and links here:

You might end up with 122 or 124 chain links
 
A lot of water has flown in River Vistula since :) It is 48T chainring, 46T smallest cassette cog, and Long Cage derailleur. I have found the optimum chain length is only 126 links there! Let me tell you how to find the ideal chain length:

As I have just written, my Vado with even larger granny gear cog and Long Cage derailleur just needs 126 links, so yours would need even less. After having routed your new chain (shortened to 126 links; or more like 128 or 130 if you are not sure), that is, the chain is on the chainring (in the proper Narrow-Wide manner) and the smallest rear cog, connect both ends of the chain at the bottom with a 3 mm Allen key. Now, observe: Is there slack in the chain? Probably it is. Now, replace the disjointed chain onto the largest cog, and temporarily reconnect chain ends. Is the derailleur at, say, 75 degrees forward? If this is still pointing backwards or vertically, the chain is too long.

Continue shortening the chain, two links at a time. You might have come down to 122 links. When you have found the right chain length, connect the ends permanently. (In case of using a master link, make sure the direction arrow is oriented properly). Engage the Shadow clutch if your derailleur is equipped with one.

View attachment 81748
Granny gear: The derailleur cage points some 75 degrees forward.

View attachment 81749
Top gear: No slack in the chain. The derailleur is not on horizontal. (As I had to use a connecting pin, I was extremely careful on the latest chain replacement).

The bottom line is: You could end up with 122 links.
Stefan, Thanks very much for the detailed instructions. With the 40t to 48t chainring/gearing change I wasn’t sure how much longer the new chain would need to be than my old one! This will definitely help.
 
Stefan, Thanks very much for the detailed instructions. With the 40t to 48t chainring/gearing change I wasn’t sure how much longer the new chain would need to be than my old one! This will definitely help.
At 1700 miles I went ahead and swapped the 40t Praxis chainring for a 48t Praxis chainring on my 2020 Vado 4.0, to get more speed on the top end at a reasonable 80 - 85 cadence. Also installed a new KMC 10 speed ebike chain (cut to 123 links) and swapped out the Shimano Deore 10 speed derailleur for a Shimano Deore XT 10 speed derailleur that I had in my parts bin. Many thanks to Stefan, SierraTim and others for their insightful posts on this topic, makes it easy to do-it-yourself.
 

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At 1700 miles I went ahead and swapped the 40t Praxis chainring for a 48t Praxis chainring on my 2020 Vado 4.0, to get more speed on the top end at a reasonable 80 - 85 cadence. Also installed a new KMC 10 speed ebike chain (cut to 123 links) and swapped out the Shimano Deore 10 speed derailleur for a Shimano Deore XT 10 speed derailleur that I had in my parts bin. Many thanks to Stefan, SierraTim and others for their insightful posts on this topic, makes it easy to do-it-yourself.
Also found this video very helpful in setting up/adjusting the rear mech, it may have been posted by someone already and if so, I apologize for the redundancy.
 
Update. I took the Vado 4.0 out with the new gearing to check the cadence on the top end in turbo mode. In my tallest gear 48t chainring to my 11t cog, my cadence was ~77 rpm at 28 mph. Much better. No issues climbing the 12% grade leading home from the trail. Rode up in 3rd largest cog, so confident gearing would be good up to 15%+ grade or more.
 
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