11 -34 freewheel

[Darceman]

And that's the point you just can't seem to wrap your head around...
Best is subjective and if you don't have a need for a grandma gear then you do indeed lose use of a cog if you never have a need to shift into it.
I tried to explain why you should choose the appropriate flywheel for your use whether it be 28t or 34t...and you just say 34t is the best and that's what everyone else does. Well everyone now has enough information to help them make a better decision for their need... Fair enough

I'm not arguing with you. I've been on this site long enough to know what works best with Lectric for the majority of people on this bike. Your explanation means nothing to me. You have an opinion. Nuff said.

 

[ebikester]

@ebikester there are a bunch that will fit. If your commute is mostly flat, a 28t "hill gear" is plenty. 34t would be a real stump-puller with power assist. Don't forget the FR1.3 Park Tool

I'm looking for the best setup for riding at the highest pedaling speed possible.

 

[ebikester]

OK.....so which freewheel is better for cruising at top speeds while pedaling?
Has anyone else noticed that the power kicks in harder if you pedal versus throttle only?

Another question. If my goal is to hit top speed or 20 mph the quickest, if pedaling the bike in 1st gear, I run out of gear so I have to change gears so my pedaling will actually contribute to the acceleration. But with throttle only, no pedaling, for some reason it seems like staying in 1st gear is the fastest way to hit 20 mph. With throttle only, why doesn't the bike run out of gear in 1st but instead just accelerates faster then when changing gears? Is it because the motor operates more efficiently at higher rpms?

Does this factor into the selection of which freewheel to go with or no? If electric motors work better at higher rpm's, then will having more teeth on the rear sprocket both make your bike accelerate faster and also save on power? (but will be spinner at higher rpms)

 

[Darceman]

I'm looking for the best setup for riding at the highest pedaling speed possible.

If you mean you want to go the fastest speed and pedal at a reasonable cadence then you want the 11 tooth. The less teeth on the rear sprocket the slower the pedaling..11 tooth works great you can go 28mph and be pedaling at a comfortable place... The more teeth or larger sprocket on the freewheel is what gives you the ability to start out from a dead stop on a hill for example. The most efficient way to ride is start in 1st gear and switch up one gear at a time while increasing your pedal assist to maintain a smooth acceleration in conjunction with your cadence. This uses the least amount of battery as your continuing to assist the motor as opposed to throttle only or starting in a higher gear and making the motor work somewhat harder.

 

[Darceman]

OK.....so which freewheel is better for cruising at top speeds while pedaling?
Has anyone else noticed that the power kicks in harder if you pedal versus throttle only?

Another question. If my goal is to hit top speed or 20 mph the quickest, if pedaling the bike in 1st gear, I run out of gear so I have to change gears so my pedaling will actually contribute to the acceleration. But with throttle only, no pedaling, for some reason it seems like staying in 1st gear is the fastest way to hit 20 mph. With throttle only, why doesn't the bike run out of gear in 1st but instead just accelerates faster then when changing gears? Is it because the motor operates more efficiently at higher rpms?

Does this factor into the selection of which freewheel to go with or no? If electric motors work better at higher rpm's, then will having more teeth on the rear sprocket both make your bike accelerate faster and also save on power? (but will be spinner at higher rpms)

Hi...The motor is inside the hub and has no relation to what gear your in...I answered some of your questions in your previous post... See above... Hopefully that helps...

 

[ebikester]

Hi...The motor is inside the hub and has no relation to what gear your in...I answered some of your questions in your previous post... See above... Hopefully that helps...

I haven't seen anyone mention it..but just to make sure, when changing to the 11-34, you use the stock chain right?

 

[Darceman]

I haven't seen anyone mention it..but just to make sure, when changing to the 11-34, you use the stock chain right?

Yes...works no problem. Make sure you remove the washer behind the original freewheel. You can put the original on a flat surface next to the replacement and you will find the original sits on another plane. When you remove the washer it puts the replacement exactly in line as the original.

 

[goldconch]

I haven't seen anyone mention it..but just to make sure, when changing to the 11-34, you use the stock chain right?

@ebikester if tackling DIY, I would recommend watching some quick online how to videos. Removing 14t-28, and installing 11t to whatever 7 speed DNP EPOCH freewheel, needs a special splined FR1.3 Park Tool, a chain whip tool is optional - an old rag will suffice, some replacement cable zip ties, a big adjustable wrench, allen keys to realign rear disk brake, and about 15-20 minutes of ambition. You may find it easier to remove rear wheel by letting out some air, in which case you might need a pump to reflate the tire. If you bring it to a bike tech, they can install this in a few minutes, and maybe while you wait if you have good rapport and they aren't too busy.

 

[goldconch]

I'm looking for the best setup for riding at the highest pedaling speed possible.

@ebikester in addition to the 11t freewheel at hub, you might consider upgrading the crank sprocket itself to one with more teeth. Going from 14t to 11t on the rear freewheel is a big 21% mechanical improvement, whereas, going from a 52 tooth crank to say a 56 is a more modest and expensive 7.6% improvement (if it fits). I went from 50t to a 53t on my Qualisports and cruise easily at 25mph on flats. Have a look at your P settings too. I believe it is safer for cyclists to move as close to surrounding traffic speeds (esp when not in a lane) than to be viewed as a moving obstacle by other road users. That's where aggression and accidents happen.

 

[ebikester]

@ebikester in addition to the 11t freewheel at hub, you might consider upgrading the crank sprocket itself to one with more teeth. Going from 14t to 11t on the rear freewheel is a big 21% mechanical improvement, whereas, going from a 52 tooth crank to say a 56 is a more modest and expensive 7.6% improvement (if it fits). I went from 50t to a 53t on my Qualisports and cruise easily at 25mph on flats. Have a look at your P settings too. I believe it is safer for cyclists to move as close to surrounding traffic speeds (esp when not in a lane) than to be viewed as a moving obstacle by other road users. That's where aggression and accidents happen.

Yeah after the rear freewheel upgrade I was thinking about a larger front sprocket if necessary...I think 55t was the largest I found. Another solution I was considering was tapping another set of holes in the stock crank arms so instead of the current 175mm arms (or whatever they are stock), I could experiment with shorter cranks like maybe 155mm or however short makes sense...but I'm not sure how to determine which length would be ideal. In theory, shorter crank arms will decrease the amount of pedaling required to maintain higher speeds but I can't find any charts or calculators that tell you how crank arm length affects gear ratios relative to sprockets. Ever consider this route?

 

[Tom@WashDC]

I just added the DNP 11-34 freewheel to my Bafang-Luna Cycle HD Hot-Rod Mongoose Dolomite. I started out with the stock Mongoose 14-28 and the Luna Cycle Mighty-Mini 30th chain ring. I had plenty (excess) hill climbing power, but paltry pedaling-road speed to get to my destinations. I had to pedal like the Million Dollar Man (Billion Dollar Man, adjusted for inflation) at 16mph which looked and felt ridiculous. I added the DNP 11-34, and went back to the original stock Bafang 46 Tooth chain ring. What a difference! Now I have plenty of hill climbing power, and top end speed on the road. Excellent upgrade.

 

[goldconch]

Yeah after the rear freewheel upgrade I was thinking about a larger front sprocket if necessary...I think 55t was the largest I found. Another solution I was considering was tapping another set of holes in the stock crank arms so instead of the current 175mm arms (or whatever they are stock), I could experiment with shorter cranks like maybe 155mm or however short makes sense...but I'm not sure how to determine which length would be ideal. In theory, shorter crank arms will decrease the amount of pedaling required to maintain higher speeds but I can't find any charts or calculators that tell you how crank arm length affects gear ratios relative to sprockets. Ever consider this route?

@ebikester please note there is a limit on how big to go on the diameter of the crank's chainring. The chainring will need to rotate on its fixed axis, and its teeth need to clear the rear chain stay while transfering rotational pedal energy through the chain. Check the specs and measure the radius from center of crank to rear chain stay x 2 for maximum clearance, and then walk it back a bit for grass/weed debris. The longer the crank arms, the more pedal leverage, and fewer rotations will be necessary to achieve the same number of chain revolutions. A bigger crank may also be slightly harder on knees, if that's a concern. 170mm is pretty standard/comfortable norm for adult bikes (a 52t 170mm is what comes OEM from Lectric), with either tapered diamond or square at crank (lectric is tapered square). The 172.5 and 175mm are more common on performance racing street/triathlon bikes. I upgraded my Qualisports from 50t OEM to a Litepro 170mm 130BCD 53t (diameter approx 24cm/9.25"), and it works fine. The only reason I did that, was that I had stripped pedal and crank threads and was already having to replace both. I had earlier blindly purchased a 58t without having first measured, and that was a mistake I would spare you from making.

 

[ebikester]

@ebikester please note there is a limit on how big to go on the diameter of the crank's chainring. The chainring will need to rotate on its fixed axis, and its teeth need to clear the rear chain stay while transfering rotational pedal energy through the chain. Check the specs and measure the radius from center of crank to rear chain stay x 2 for maximum clearance, and then walk it back a bit for grass/weed debris. The longer the crank arms, the more pedal leverage, and fewer rotations will be necessary to achieve the same number of chain revolutions. A bigger crank may also be slightly harder on knees, if that's a concern. 170mm is pretty standard/comfortable norm for adult bikes (a 52t 170mm is what comes OEM from Lectric), with either tapered diamond or square at crank (lectric is tapered square). The 172.5 and 175mm are more common on performance racing street/triathlon bikes. I upgraded my Qualisports from 50t OEM to a Litepro 170mm 130BCD 53t (diameter approx 24cm/9.25"), and it works fine. The only reason I did that, was `````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````that I had stripped pedal and crank threads and was already having to replace both. I had earlier blindly purchased a 58t without having first measured, and that was a mistake I would spare you from making.

Good tips and I know exactly what you're referring to. I've dealt with sprockets and cranks in the past on BMX bikes so I know how frustrating it can be if you don't get the right parts. I received the 11-34 freewheel and Park freewheel tool so I'm excited to put it on and see how much of a difference the 11 makes. On a 20" bmx, going down two teeth on the rear makes a huge difference so I'm sure it will be the improvement I was looking for. I'm curious what the 34 is going to feel like. Thanks for all the advice about the gotchas!

 

[ebikester]

@ebikester if tackling DIY, I would recommend watching some quick online how to videos. Removing 14t-28, and installing 11t to whatever 7 speed DNP EPOCH freewheel, needs a special splined FR1.3 Park Tool, a chain whip tool is optional - an old rag will suffice, some replacement cable zip ties, a big adjustable wrench, allen keys to realign rear disk brake, and about 15-20 minutes of ambition. You may find it easier to remove rear wheel by letting out some air, in which case you might need a pump to reflate the tire. If you bring it to a bike tech, they can install this in a few minutes, and maybe while you wait if you have good rapport and they aren't too busy.

I need to get to know the bike and the video I watched looked pretty straight forward so I'm going to try doing it.

 

[Taylor57]

I know when my son upgraded the Freewheel to 11-34 the original chain was a little taught. He has since purchased a new chain and has made the fit better. I agree to watch XP You Tube vids and you will have no problem on the switch out. Yeah, and don't forget to not put back on the washer. The new freewheel is only about 30 bucks and the freewheel tool is another 10 bucks...

 

[mbtn]

I upgraded my wife's step-thru to the 11-34 and have noticed an occasional pop like it skips a tooth. Anyone else having this problem? I've played with the B adjustment and can't seem to get it to go away.

 

[goldconch]

Tight chain? Popping teeth? Something else not right?

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

 

[Darceman]

Tight chain? Popping teeth? Something else not right?

Rear Derailleur Adjustment

I upgraded my wife's step-thru to the 11-34 and have noticed an occasional pop like it skips a tooth. Anyone else having this problem? I've played with the B adjustment and can't seem to get it to go away.

Sounds like you need to do a little bit more adjustment it shouldn't be doing that...11-34 will work perfectly fine when adjusted with the original chain

 

[Tom@WashDC]

I just added the DNP 11-34 freewheel to my Bafang-Luna Cycle HD Hot-Rod Mongoose Dolomite. I started out with the stock Mongoose 14-28 and the Luna Cycle Mighty-Mini 30th chain ring. I had plenty (excess) hill climbing power, but paltry pedaling-road speed to get to my destinations. I had to pedal like the Million Dollar Man (Billion Dollar Man, adjusted for inflation) at 16mph which looked and felt ridiculous. I added the DNP 11-34, and went back to the original stock Bafang 46 Tooth chain ring. What a difference! Now I have plenty of hill climbing power, and top end speed on the road. Excellent upgrade.

My DNP 11-34 from Amazon developed a wobble which affected the shifting. I had to take it off. some of the reviews on Amazon said they developed a wobble too.

 

[Darceman]

My DNP 11-34 from Amazon developed a wobble which affected the shifting. I had to take it off. some of the reviews on Amazon said they developed a wobble too.

I guess I've been lucky, I've put four of them on and all have been fine. That being said their quality control probably is not up to Shimano's.