11 -34 freewheel

[Tom@WashDC]

I did that at first. Then I changed out the freewheel hub to a cassette hub and went with an 11-42T. Much nicer. 42T Chainring on the front.

 

[pmcderm993]

just got the 11-34 freewheel change and also changed the pedals to the mks fd-7 folding pedals and both work great---WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! Our local bicycle shop charged me 15$ to change freewheel, pedals, adjust brakes and basic tuneup. Same shop just converted my wife's suncycle trike to electic with even a reverse gear.Cant wait for spring here in michigan-snow freezing rain tomorrow but got to ride at 38 degrees yesterday. I would have to say changing seatpost,freewheel and pedals are best three mods imho.

Are the mks dd-7 folding pedals any longer than the stock pedals when extended or folded? I have wide feet and want a folding pedal a little longer.

 

[pmcderm993]

I know when my son upgraded the Freewheel to 11-34 the original chain was a little taught. He has since purchased a new chain and has made the fit better. I agree to watch XP You Tube vids and you will have no problem on the switch out. Yeah, and don't forget to not put back on the washer. The new freewheel is only about 30 bucks and the freewheel tool is another 10 bucks...

I just bought a 2.0 in February 2022 and there is no washer to remove. They now supply a beefier freewheel with no washer. My conversion went perfectly and there was no washer to remove.

 

[pmcderm993]

About to change out my 14-28 for a 11-34 freewheel on my Lectric XP. Dumb question first: on Amazon there are these two listings:

Amazon.com

which is the Drift Maniac DNP e-bike freewheel for $39.71
and

Amazon.com

which is the Drift Maniac E-bike Freewheel for $29.61
Reviews seem to suggest either one will work on my Lectirc XP
So my dumb question is WHICH should I order, with the price NOT being an issue?

I bought the cheaper one and it worked fine.

 

[NH Old Man]

Greetings from a newbie. Well, after research on the forum and elsewhere, I got the Drift Maniac 11-34 freewheel and the tool through Amazon. The exchange went smoothly, though I did not find the washer I was expecting to. After reassembly, the brake disc seems to be about 1/32" or so out of alignment with the brake assembly. I plan to disassemble the whole thing later today to see what, if anything I might've missed.
Anybody else familiar with my conundrum? I'm hoping I missed something fundamental which will reveal itself, but not overly confident at this point.

 

[AHicks]

Greetings from a newbie. Well, after research on the forum and elsewhere, I got the Drift Maniac 11-34 freewheel and the tool through Amazon. The exchange went smoothly, though I did not find the washer I was expecting to. After reassembly, the brake disc seems to be about 1/32" or so out of alignment with the brake assembly. I plan to disassemble the whole thing later today to see what, if anything I might've missed.
Anybody else familiar with my conundrum? I'm hoping I missed something fundamental which will reveal itself, but not overly confident at this point.

The freewheel change shouldn't have affected the disc brake spacing/centering. My bet is you have an issue with the washer placement between the hub and the frame on the disc side.

 

[NH Old Man]

Thanks AHicks! It'll be later today before I get to it. Ill let you know what I find.

 

[PedalUma]

Thanks AHicks! It'll be later today before I get to it. Ill let you know what I find.

@NH Old Man, Can you flip the bike and photograph it? Put a white piece of paper on the floor under the caliper, so we can see the left/right gaps. Thanks. I just used this freewheel. It required a long cage derailleur. Even with that the derailleur rubs 1 when in 2 because the difference is so large.

 

[Johny Rocket]

1/32 is such a tiny amount that it is just a slight difference in how the axle is sitting in the dropouts. If the calipers aren't perfect center, you can get slight rubbing just fixing a flat tire. YouTube videos are available for explaining how to adjust calipers. No need to disassemble, loosen two hex screws, center, then tighten.

YouTube videos on derailleur adjustment will get you to the correct settings that allow the 11-34 to work with the stock derailuier. You might have to add a link or two to the chain though but doubtful.

 

[PedalUma]

11-34 to work with the stock derailuier

Many derailleurs such as a stock Tourney will not be able to hit the 34. They just do not have the reach. The jockey wheel will ride on the cog, not clear it. I agree that adjusting the brakes is easy. It could be just that the skewer is over tightened or not aligned.

 

[lectricG]

If I don't want to peddle like I'm running from the cops.the 11 is 7th gear same as both the only advantage I see is for sharp hill climbing

 

[PedalUma]

One is the 34-t. It is the lowest for climbing. It is closest to the center of the bike. 11-t is the fastest on the flats. It is furthest to the right and is seventh gear.

 

[lectricG]

One is the 34-t. It is the lowest for climbing. It is closest to the center of the bike. 11-t is the fastest on the flats. It is furthest to the right and is seventh gear.

So there is no advantage for speed only hill climb

 

[NH Old Man]

Thank you guys for responding to my query! When I was a boy, I had an HO scale car set. I recently retired from a career as an engineer. When the HO cars malfunctioned, I would disassemble them and reassemble which usually resolved whatever issue there was. This was the beginning of my "Take it apart and put it together again" HO theory of fixing stuff. I havs used this method at work and home for decades and it still resolves most issues like the one I faced this weekend.
I did disassemble and reassemble the bike and reassured myself that I had done nothing wrong! A minor adjustment to the juxtaposition of the brake caliper assembly and all was great. The gearing is the "cats 'nads"! I can finally exceed 15mph without feeling like a hamster.
Thanks again to you all!

 

[AHicks]

So there is no advantage for speed only hill climb

If you already have an 11t small gear in back, and you want to be able to go faster (stay up with the pedals easier) when pedaling, l would suggest you look into a front gear with more teeth. Caveat being there can be clearance issues, and there are a couple of different sizes, so make sure you eyeball YOUR bike closely to prevent mistakes.

Going from a 44-46t to a 49-52t in front is like picking up an extra gear.....

 

[lectricG]

If you already have an 11t small gear in back, and you want to be able to go faster (stay up with the pedals easier) when pedaling, l would suggest you look into a front gear with more teeth. Caveat being there can be clearance issues, and there are a couple of different sizes, so make sure you eyeball YOUR bike closely to prevent mistakes.

Going from a 44-46t to a 49-52t in front is like picking up an extra gear.....

Makes more sense to me I don't have mountain to climb I'm in Minnesota and still haven't been to mount minnyiowa

If you already have an 11t small gear in back, and you want to be able to go faster (stay up with the pedals easier) when pedaling, l would suggest you look into a front gear with more teeth. Caveat being there can be clearance issues, and there are a couple of different sizes, so make sure you eyeball YOUR bike closely to prevent mistakes.

Going from a 44-46t to a 49-52t in front is like picking up an extra gear.....