Rear sprocket and hub issue
- Thread starter Yodaman1
- Start date
PedalUma
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Petaluma, CA
I worked on a bike last week that I had designed four-years-ago as a climber for the big hills between my town and the coast. I put a 32-t chainring on it and an all steel 11-50 nine-speed cassette. Some motors are programable so you can create a power curve that applies more power at higher cadences. That prevents the crunch off the line that breaks stuff. 35 years ago I worked at a car dealership in LA. The detailers put Armor All on the clutch pedal of a Corvette so it looked nice and shiney. Backing up my foot went flying off, I smoked the tires and stalled the engine.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
nope their
hub is around 220.00
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I put a race motor with dual 40DCOE's into my 1975 2002. I blew the transmission within 6 months, then replaced it. A few months later, I blew two junkyard rear ends. No crazy driving. Performance clutch. 140Nm into a cheap bicycle freehub is not going to last under high load.
Yodaman1
New Member
- Region
- USA
I will definitely invest in a quality hub based on the information you all have provided. I really appreciate all the support.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
I might have a dt-swiss hub I wount need I can sell. it may have to go to 40 spoke for our tandem.
stompandgo
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
I get the sarcasm, but I'm not saying expensive, just quality. You don't need a DT Swiss or White Industries, although they are worth the money. Just get a hub that's designed for high load and not light weight. The Shimano TC-FH500 is designed for e-MTB's, a high torque application. There are others like this. You will need to match up the axle type and length, spoke count, and cassette type.
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
I suspect that @Yodaman1 has a freewheel similar what I had.
My freewheel was a rusty turd, so I replaced it with a better quality DNP freewheel,..
DNP 7 Speed Screw on Freewheel Nickel Plate 11-34T, ST1781 : Amazon.ca
DNP 7 Speed Screw on Freewheel Nickel Plate 11-34T, ST1781 : Amazon.ca
a.co
The ratcheting mechanism is built into the freewheel, so all you need to replace is the freewheel.
You will need a freewheel removal tool, and probably one with a bigger opening that fits over your larger motor plug connector on your high power motor.
Don't cheap out on the freewheel removal tool. It has to be very thin metal to fit, and needs to be quality steel.
EDIT: @Yodaman1 has a high power mid-drive ebike, so they may not have used a freewheel?
(the weakest of them all)
Unless that's why it only lasted three trips up and down the driveway?
Last edited:
Base
Bike nerd
- Region
- Europe
- City
- in the exact center of the Netherlands
the mentioned hub is one designed around a cassette and a freehub-body on the axle. You would need 2 items to remove the cassette (lockring), a lockring tool and a chainwhip (or a similar tool)
a "freewheel-type" all in one sprocket set with the freewheel integrated in it needs just one tool (TLFW30 is my favorite) and in most cases a strong bench vise and the look on your face as an angry bear.
Hard turn counterclockwise to get it free.... It usually takes a lot off force (freehun lockring is supposed to be tightend at 40Nm) because the chaindrive pulls the freewheel very tight on the BSA threaded part.
And yes I've managed to brake an actual benchvise while unscrewing a freewheel from an e-bike.... after lots of sweating/swearing
a "freewheel-type" all in one sprocket set with the freewheel integrated in it needs just one tool (TLFW30 is my favorite) and in most cases a strong bench vise and the look on your face as an angry bear.
Hard turn counterclockwise to get it free.... It usually takes a lot off force (freehun lockring is supposed to be tightend at 40Nm) because the chaindrive pulls the freewheel very tight on the BSA threaded part.
And yes I've managed to brake an actual benchvise while unscrewing a freewheel from an e-bike.... after lots of sweating/swearing
Yodaman1
New Member
- Region
- USA
Thank you for the video. I'll see what they have for my application.
Hello everyone. I wanted to share a video of the sprocket to ensure I purchase what I need. I appreciate everyone's help so far.
Base
Bike nerd
- Region
- Europe
- City
- in the exact center of the Netherlands
You actually need to remove your rear wheel and pull out the free hub. So we can see the clutch mechanische/palls on the free hub and the inside of the gub where those engage. That would the info tho determine if your hub is toast or this one needs some grease and a proper assembly.
Would that be doable?
Would that be doable?
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
You'll need to remove your rear wheel to look and see whether you've got a freewheel or freehub or cassette.
(I think that a cassette is what goes on a freehub?)
Then you'll know what tools you need to buy.
Even park tools sells A Bunch of different freewheel removal tools for the different freewheels available.
(Long reach, number of splines, depth of splines,..)
You need to know your make and model.
A freewheel has a built-in ratchet assembly (clutch with pawls) so you'll only need a new freewheel.
A freehub has the ratchet inside the hub so the hub will have to be replaced and you'd have to rebuild your wheel.
(Unless you can fix it, but my guess it that it's broken because you've only ridden your bike 3 times.)
(I think that a cassette is what goes on a freehub?)
Then you'll know what tools you need to buy.
Even park tools sells A Bunch of different freewheel removal tools for the different freewheels available.
(Long reach, number of splines, depth of splines,..)
You need to know your make and model.
A freewheel has a built-in ratchet assembly (clutch with pawls) so you'll only need a new freewheel.
A freehub has the ratchet inside the hub so the hub will have to be replaced and you'd have to rebuild your wheel.
(Unless you can fix it, but my guess it that it's broken because you've only ridden your bike 3 times.)
Last edited:
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Maybe the better part of valor here would be to let a willing LBS fix it if the OP has one available.
Lots of opportunities for misadventures WRT parts and tools actually needed. If the OP thinks it might happen again, the LBS might be willing to tell him what he'll need next time.
Lots of opportunities for misadventures WRT parts and tools actually needed. If the OP thinks it might happen again, the LBS might be willing to tell him what he'll need next time.
Yodaman1
New Member
- Region
- USA
Sorry, but I've never removed a cassette before.
Attachments
Yodaman1
New Member
- Region
- USA
I just removed the wheel but don't have the special tools needed to disassemble the hub/cassette.
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
ok they are cheap on amazon.
if yo uwant cheap this will work. you need a big wrench like a cresent wrench still or big socket.
if you dont have a big wrench you can get this set.
if yo uwant cheap this will work. you need a big wrench like a cresent wrench still or big socket.
Amazon.com : Oumers Bike Chain Tools Kit, Cassette Removal Tool Sprocket Remover Kit/Chain Whip and Cassette/Rotor Lockring Removal Tool with Guide Pin : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : Oumers Bike Chain Tools Kit, Cassette Removal Tool Sprocket Remover Kit/Chain Whip and Cassette/Rotor Lockring Removal Tool with Guide Pin : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
if you dont have a big wrench you can get this set.
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